If you want to buy an open-source 3D printer kit, you’ll now have dozens of options to choose from. I personally recommend the Creality Ender 3 V2, or V2 Neo, as a great low-cost kit, or if you have $1000, go for the Prusa.

In fact, open-source 3D printers launched the affordable 3D printer ranges we have now, starting from the RepRap movement more than a decade ago. 

And, unlike the original RepRaps, which were open-source FDM printers, there are now plenty of open-source resin printers, too. Therefore, I pick my favorites here based on real hands-on testing, with links to the 3D printer source files, and where to buy them.

Budget pick	Best under $1000	Premium pick
Creality Ender 3 V2 3D Printer	Prusa i3 MK3S+	BCN3D Sigma D25
4.1	4.5	4.7
$279.99	$749-999	$3995
Creality Store here	Buy as a kit here	Dynamism here
Amazon here	Buy pre-assembled here	MatterHackers here

Budget pick

Creality Ender 3 V2 3D Printer

4.1

$279.99

Creality Store here

Amazon here

Best under $1000

Prusa i3 MK3S+

4.5

$749-999

Buy as a kit here

Buy pre-assembled here

Premium pick

BCN3D Sigma D25

4.7

$3995

Dynamism here

MatterHackers here

What is an open-source 3D printer?

An open-source 3D printer has all of its hardware, firmware, and software designs available to the public. 

Without any IP holding people back from experimenting and improving open-source 3D printer designs, people are free to develop new features and publish their improvements for the community to enjoy.

Full Comparison:

3DSourced is reader-supported. When you buy through links on our site, we may earn an affiliate commission. Learn more

Best Desktop Open Source 3D Printers

Monoprice Mini Delta — Introductory open source printer

• Price: Check on Amazon here
• Maximum print volume: 110 x 110 x 120 mm
• Accuracy: up to 50 microns

The Monoprice Mini Delta is known for being one of the best budget 3D printers around, with great precision (up to 50 microns), speed (up to 150 mm/s) — and it’s open source!

An open source delta 3D printer, this allows for faster print speed, as with less weight on the print head, faster speeds and quicker acceleration can occur without overshooting. Higher print speeds can therefore be maintained without any loss of accuracy, making it one of the best fast 3D printers for the price.

Unlike many delta printers, the Monoprice Mini Delta comes fully assembled, so you can get printing in less than an hour from opening the box. The heated bed means you can print ABS and other trickier 3D filaments, and you can print via WiFi as well as by USB or SD card.

The sturdy metal frame improves part print quality by anchoring the printer down so external factors like vibrations don’t impact quality, and overall it’s a fantastic open source 3D printer for a low price.

Anet A8 – Low cost open source 3D printer

• Price: $180 — Available on Amazon here
• Size: 220 x 220 x 240 mm
• Minimum layer thickness: 100 microns

A low-cost open source 3D printer, the Anet A8 is a 3D printer kit that you will have to build yourself. It will take a few hours (up to six, actually), but once it’s up and running, not only will you be able to print magnificent 3D models, but you’ll also feel accomplished and appreciate it more having built it yourself.

Since it requires some tech know-how, this may not be the ideal 3D printer for beginners. But for those with enough experience to handle any issues and who can modify their open source 3D printer based on what they want to print, it’s fantastic for such a low price.

Once it’s up and running, it’s a fairly large 3D printer, able to print 220 x 220 x 240 mm parts without issue. It can print standard PLA and ABS, as well as wood-filled filaments and others including Nylon.

Overall, it’s reasonably reliable, accurate, and does everything you could possibly expect for such an affordable 3D printer. And with the open source firmware, you can unleash your creativity and change anything you want to improve.

Creality Ender 3 V2 (and V2 Neo) 

• Price: $280 / $300
• Build Volume: 220 x 220 x 250 mm / 220 x 220 x 250 mm
• Print Speed: 180 mm per second / 180 mm per second
• Assembly Time: 30 – 60 minutes / 30 – 60 minutes
• Open Source Rating: Partially open source

The Ender 3 V2 is not technically open source itself – it’s the original Ender 3’s designs that are available. 

Still, with the V2 being nothing but an upgraded version of the original, you shouldn’t have any trouble when using the Ender 3’s designs for the V2.

Actually, the same goes for the Ender 3 V2 Neo, as it uses the same general frame style and Bowden extruder as the Ender 3 V2. We recently tested the Ender 3 V2 Neo at 3DSourced, so you can read that if you’re interested in taking a deeper dive.

You’ll notice there are some differences that make it less open source than the V2, but the Creality community’s own documentation and experimentation will help you along the way.

The Neo aside, grabbing an Ender 3 V2 is a great decision if you’re the tinkering type. It’s easy to modify and has decent specs, with a build volume of 220 x 220 x 250 mm and a max extruder temperature of 260°C. You can’t use any really fancy materials, but you can work with PLA, ABS, and PETG with no problem.

It has no auto bed leveling and no touchscreen, which could be some nice first upgrades.

Prusa i3 — best open source 3D printer under $1,000

• Price: $749 as a kit — Available on Prusa store here / $999 fully assembled — Available on Prusa store here
• Build volume: 250 x 210 x 200 mm
• Precision: 50 microns

Whereas some desktop 3D printer brands have turned their backs on open source, Prusa is still committed to the open source 3D printer philosophy, and you can access everything you need on their GitHub.

Known as one of the best 3D printer kits ever made, Prusa 3D printers have won boatloads of awards. Solid printing speed, accuracy, great reliability and compatibility with a variety of filaments (especially with the Multi-Material 2.0 upgrade) make it competitive with printers costing far more.

Designed to save you hassle and time, the Prusa i3 printers will save your current progress in the event of a power outage so you can resume where you left off, it will pause in the event of filament running out so the print doesn’t fail, and can even detect when the filament is clogging. Overall, it’s a fantastic open source 3D printer and we highly recommend it.

Professional Open Source 3D Printers

Prusa SL1S

• Price: $1,999
• Build Volume: 127 x 80 x 150 mm
• Print Speed: 1.4s per layer
• Assembly Time: 5-10 minutes (fully assembled)
• Open Source Rating: Partially open source

The original Prusa SL1, despite being completely open source, is no longer available for purchase, having been superseded by the Prusa SL1S. We expect that Prusa will release the files of the SL1S soon however, as they always do.

But for now, the SL1S and SL1 are in open-source limbo where only the out-of-production earlier version’s files are currently available on GitHub. Still, we’ll cover the SL1S here since it will be open source in the future, and any shared design aspects are open source.

The SL1S is an expensive but incredibly fast open-source SLA printer. It has a 1.4-second exposure time per layer, meaning it can print a 150mm tall object in just three hours.

The SL1S has a decent LCD resolution of 2560 x 1620p and a 5.96” screen, allowing it to print even the smallest miniatures with good detail. It’s an interesting combination of innovative design choices – like a motorized tilting bed that offers faster and more stable printing – and non-proprietary tech like its resin tank and FEP films.

Truly, it’s a typical Prusa open-source printer through and through.

BCN3D Sigma D25

• Price: $3,995 — Available on Dynamism Store here / Available on Matterhackers here
• Build volume: 420 x 300 x 200 mm

Barcelona, Spain-based BCN3D remain committed to open source 3D printing since their inception in 2012. All their printers have open source 3D printer files for firmware, process, software, and more published on the BCN3D GitHub.

BCN3D printers are known for their reliability, and the Sigma D25, their newest printer, is no different. Featuring their signature IDEX dual extruder system which can print in two special modes, Mirror and Duplication, each extruder can function separately, as either a multi color 3D printer, or for printing with a soluble filament for supports that can be easily removed.

Whereas the Sigmax R19 has a completely closed, enclosed build chamber, the Sigma D25 is semi-open. It’s easy to use, reliable, durable with its high-quality stainless steel frame, and prints very consistently and accurately at up to 50-micron layer heights on E3D hot ends. D25 models now have access to WiFi 3D printing, and can automatically install new firmware updates to keep your printer up to date.

Any keen makers or small businesses looking to print fun projects or accurate plastic prototypes, that is also open source, may find the Sigma D25 the perfect 3D printer for you.

Ultimaker 3 / S3

• Price: $4,080 — Available on Dynamism Store here / Available on Matterhackers here
• Build volume: 215 x 215 x 210 mm

12 months after the Ultimaker 3’s release, the Dutch company released the hardware source files for both the Ultimaker 3 and Ultimaker 3 Extended here. This was no surprise; Ultimaker had previously released the files to other printers including the Ultimaker 2 Go, leading to innovation breakthroughs such as the Olsson Block. Ultimaker also develops Cura, the popular and open source 3D slicer.

Known as one of the best 3D printers of its generation, the Ultimaker 3 is incredibly accurate and widely adopted for rapid prototyping precise plastic parts. It comes fully assembled and almost ready to print; you can get it all started within just a few minutes.

It works with Ultimaker’s open source 3D printer software, Cura, and features a built-in camera for monitoring your print’s progress remotely. It’s not the fastest, but prints with flawless accuracy for an FDM 3D printer, and the dual extruder also adds to its offering.

Ultimaker has not yet (as of August 2021) released any source files for the Ultimaker S5 or S3, but some of the parts are near identical to the Ultimaker 3.

List of other open source 3D printers (with purchase links):

• BCN3D Epsilon
• Lulzbot Mini
• Taz Pro
• BigFDM
• Creatable 3D
• Hydra Research Nautilus

There are also a range of other open source CNC machines beyond 3D printers, ranging from the MPCNC (mostly printed CNC), to the original ShapeOko designs (before they became closed source with the Shapeoko 3 and 4). If you’re looking for a 3D printer that can also CNC and laser cut, we also have an article on the best all-in-one 3D printers.

Where can you download open source 3D printer designs?

Depending on the company, open-source 3D printer designs are usually stored on GitHub, the RepRap wiki, or even Google Drive. You can find links to the source files on the company’s website in some cases, too.

• The Prusa i3’s designs can be found on GitHub and in Prusa Research’s guide
• The Ultimaker 3’s designs can be found on GitHub
• The Anet A8’s designs can be found in Anet’s Google Drive
• The Creality CR-10’s designs can be found on GitHub
• The Creality Ender 3’s designs can be found on GitHub
• The Snappy 3’s designs can be found on GitHub through the RepRap Wiki

How open source can improve 3D printers: Olsson Block

By letting anyone build on the design, features, or firmware of a 3D printer, new developments can occur beyond what the manufacturer builds. 

An example of this is the development of the Olsson Block by Anders Olsson.

Anders used his experience as a research engineer to experiment with an open-source Ultimaker 3D printer, attempting to make printing boron carbide possible. 

He succeeded– but at the cost of the nozzle, which was worn away after just one print.

So, Anders designed a block (now dubbed the Olsson Block) that allows for quick-swapping nozzles. The block was welcomed with open arms by the Ultimaker community, who recognized its value for a variety of applications.

Olsson Blocks are now used by thousands of 3D printers to reduce nozzle switching time. Without Ultimaker’s decision to make their printers open source, this important invention may not have been developed.

Open Source vs Closed Source 3D Printers

Makerbot, Printrbot, Lulzbot (by Aleph Objects), Ultimaker, BCN3D and several other 3D printer companies were formed championing the open source 3D printer movement.

However, some have since struggled.

Printrbot closed down in July 2018 citing low sales, while Lulzbot laid off the majority of their staff in October 2019, facing closure before they were rescued and bought out.

Makerbot, perhaps the most successful 3D printer company to emerge from the DIY 3D printer revolution, famously turned their back on the open source philosophy, and now their 3D printers are closed source and IP-protected. The company was acquired for $400M by Stratasys.

However, some open-source 3D printer companies continue to show strong growth and prove that open source is not only well-loved, but also a profitable strategy.

BCN3D continue to produce high-quality printers, including the Sigma D25 and Epsilon, while Ultimaker have grown to become one of the most respected 3D printer companies in the world. Not to mention Prusa, who stayed committed to open-source 3D printing while becoming one of the top-performing 3D printer manufacturers.

FAQs

Other articles you may be interested in:

• How to get a free 3D printer
• Open source CAD software

I’ve been there – wispy plastic residue ruining otherwise perfectly good prints.

In short, it all comes down to dialing in the best Ender 3 retraction settings.

This guide will cover everything I’ve learned about this all too common phenomenon – how to set the perfect Ender 3 retraction settings, along with a few housekeeping tricks I use to prevent stringing.

You’re likely here for specific slicer settings, so I’ll provide those, too. Let’s jump in – here’s how to reduce stringing with the best Ender 3 Retraction Settings.

What Causes Stringing?

First, what causes stringing? 

Stringing is the name given to the wispy, cobweb-like strands of filament that trail behind the nozzle when it shifts from one part of a print to another.

It also pops up in gaps (or open air) between two separate vertical parts of a print or any area where no active printing (or deposition) happens.

It’s a byproduct of the ever-present, natural pressure in the filament path continuously pushing plastic through the hot end.

In other words, although the extruder’s gears are no longer actively feeding filament, tiny traces of melted plastic leak out of the nozzle.

Stringing happens when the flow of molten plastic isn’t controlled by the usual deposition of plastic onto a pre-existing layer.

As stringing is linked to the behavior of melted plastic, filaments that print at higher temperatures are more susceptible.

Filaments like PETG are well-known for stringing for this reason, but the most popular Ender 3 filaments, PLA and ABS, are by no means immune to the problem.

Best Retraction Settings For The Ender 3, Ender 3 Pro, and Ender 3 V2

Now that we understand what each Ender 3 retraction setting does, here’s my optimal retraction settings:

• Retraction Distance: 5 mm
• Retraction Speed: 25 mm/s to 50 mm/s
• Retraction Extra Prime Amount: 0 mm/s
• Retraction Minimum Travel: 1.5 mm
• Maximum Retraction Count: 10
• Minimum Extrusion Distance Window: 10 mm
• Limit Support Retractions: Toggled On
• Combing Mode: Within Infill

These work not just on the classic Ender 3 but also as solid Ender 3 V2 and Ender 3 Pro retraction settings — though you can still tweak these based on the results you want.

With these dialed in, it’s crucial to perform an Ender 3 retraction test, such as this one, and adjust the Ender 3 retraction settings as needed. 

You’ll also find a selection of calibration shapes for testing in the Cura marketplace. This video offers a guide on how to get the best out of these types of tests.

Ender 3 V2 Neo Retraction Settings

Though the Ender 3 V2 Neo is based on the V2, it benefits from slightly tweaked retraction settings to remove stringing on the Ender 3, Ender 3 Pro, and Ender 3 V2.

• Retraction Distance: 6.5 mm
• Retraction Speed: 45 mm/s

As always, your results with these settings may vary depending on filament type and print speed, but they’re a solid starting point.

I don’t recommend lowering the retraction settings below 5 mm as this makes stringing worse in my experience. You can also read my full test of the Ender 3 V2 Neo.

Ender 3 S1 Retraction Settings

As the Ender 3 S1 features a direct drive extruder, the filament path is much shorter, meaning you can get away with a shorter retraction distance.

• Retraction Distance: 0.8 mm
• Retraction Speed: 35 to 45 mm/s

These are also Ender 3 direct drive settings applicable to any Bowden Ender 3s you’ve upgraded to a direct drive extruder.

Ender 3 S1 Pro Retraction Settings

As the Ender 3 S1 Pro is essentially a bulkier version of the Ender 3 S1, the retraction differences don’t differ much between them.

However, the Ender 3 S1 Pro tends to combat stringing more effectively with a slightly higher retraction speed.

• Retraction Distance: 0.8 mm
• Retraction Speed: 50 mm/s

You may want to slightly drop the retraction speed – to somewhere around 0.6 mm – if this doesn’t produce any substantial stringing, but I don’t recommend reducing the speed below 50 mm/s. You can read more in my full test and review of the Ender 3 S1 Pro.

At lower speeds, stringing intensifies and becomes more annoying to deal with. Some other users online have also found success with speeds up to 60 mm/s, so don’t hesitate to raise it a few millimeters if you’re still seeing stringing.

Another useful tip that affects stringing, but only applies to PLA, is to lower the nozzle temperature to around 195°C – rather than the 200-210°C typically recommended by filament manufacturers. This very slightly reduces how fast the filament melts, but enough to substantially reduce stringing, especially when paired with my recommended retraction settings.

How the Right Ender 3 Retraction Settings Stop Stringing

Retraction Settings

Fortunately, there are several ways to reduce or eliminate stringing, the most effective of which is tuning the retraction settings for the Ender 3 in your slicing software.

Retraction is a mechanism built into the extruder that retracts the filament by a short distance.

Ender 3, Ender 3 Pro, and Ender 3 V2 retraction settings determine when and by how much to pull back the plastic into the nozzle when traveling between points or over a gap. Doing so relieves the built-up pressure in the nozzle and prevents the oozing that leads to stringing.

If you’ve ever glanced at slicer retraction slicing, you’ll know there are quite a few tweakable options. We’ll cover what each one does below. 

For clarity and to serve as many readers as possible, we’ll focus on Ender 3 Cura retraction settings, given it’s the most popular 3D printing slicer. Note that other slicers feature variations on the names of these settings, but they serve the same function.

Enable Retraction

This setting tells the printer to use its retraction mechanism. Though this setting is typically ticked on by default, it’s worth double-checking. All the settings below are redundant without retraction enabled.

Retraction Distance

Retraction distance determines the length of filament pulled back by the extruder for each retraction move (specifically, how much the filament travels within the hot end), but also how much filament is extruded back through the hot end after the retraction move. 

Retraction distance is arguably the most important setting along with speed. It’s a crucial factor in reducing instances of Ender 3 stringing.

As with most aspects of 3D printing, there’s a balance to strike when it comes to tuning retraction settings for the Ender 3.

A short retraction distance won’t be enough to prevent stringing, but you run the risk of filament not reaching the nozzle when needed if you dial in a distance that’s too large. Additionally, retracting too far can cause molten plastic to solidify and clog the hot end.

Retracting the filament too far can also cause what’s known as filament grinding, an issue caused when the extruder gears gnaw away at the filament as it makes repeated passes over the same area. 

Degraded filament has a tougher time making its way through the hot end to the nozzle, which can ruin prints. Parts requiring lots of retraction moves in quick succession are especially prone to filament grinding.

Bowden systems, such as those found on the Ender 3, Ender Pro, and Ender 3 V2, typically need a longer retraction distance due to the larger gap between the extruder and print head assembly. 

For the Ender 3 S1 and Ender 3 S1 Pro, you can get away with a lower distance because these printers have direct drive extruders, so there’s a shorter filament path.

Retraction Speed

Retraction speed signals how fast the extruder drive gear pulls filament back for every retraction move.

It’s directly related to retraction distance: how fast the defined length of filament travels when retracted. Higher speeds reduce stringing because the filament is whipped up into the nozzle before stringing can occur.

Much like retraction distance, it’s not a case of simply cranking up the retraction speed to solve all your stringing woes.

There’s a balance between reducing stringing with a nippy retraction and setting it so high that it affects the consistency and quality of subsequent printed layers.

Filament grinding is a concern at higher retraction speeds, so tread carefully here to avoid degrading your filament. Another common issue sees the solid filament located higher up in the hot end separate from the molten portion lower down, which can lead to clogs and jams.

Retraction Extra Prime Amount

Following a retraction move, the retraction extra prime amount settings determine how much additional filament is primed to compensate for potential oozing during a travel move. It helps top up the nozzle with the filament when the printer returns to printing.

In most cases, the retraction extra prime amount is best left at its default settings of 0 as it tends to leave blemishes and blobs on your prints when the retraction speed and distance are set correctly.

Retraction Minimum Travel

Retraction minimum travel sets a minimum distance of travel threshold beyond which retraction is triggered, and the filament is then pulled away from the nozzle.

The idea here is to limit the number of unwanted retractions in quick succession over a small area. Set too low, and when combined with aggressive retraction speed/distance settings, it can exacerbate grinding and damage your filament.

Maximum Retraction Count

Maximum Retraction Count sets a maximum cap on the number of retraction moves within a set length of filament defined by the minimum extrusion distance window (more on that just below).

The setting is designed to protect the filament from repeated gear pressure on the same portion of filament, which can lead to grinding problems.

Minimum Extrusion Distance Window

Minimum Extrusion Distance Window determines the length of filament the maximum retraction count setting applies to.

Again, the core function of this setting is to avoid damaging your filament through repeated and unnecessary extruder pushing and pulling.

Limit Support Retractions

Here you can toggle whether the retraction mechanism and all the other retraction settings apply when traveling between or within support structures.

Turning it on can cause stringing between support portions of a print but can drastically reduce the overall print time. As you’ll remove stringy supports once a print finishes, the overall quality of your part isn’t affected.

Combing Mode

This setting gives you several options to signal how the printer should behave when traveling from one portion of a print to another.

Generally, this keeps the nozzle within previously printed areas. The aim is to keep retraction moves to a minimum and shorten print times. The setting ensures any stringing occurs within the limits of your print and not on the outer surface or walls at a nominal cost to travel times.

You’ll find four combing mode options:

• Off – The printer will retract for every travel move and do so in a straight line to the next point.
• All – The printer will ensure all travel moves occur within already printed areas.
• No in Skin – The printer avoids skin/surface areas when traveling.
• Within Infill – The printer keeps the nozzle within infills when traveling.

Other Slicer Settings That Can Help Prevent Stringing

Print Temperature

To understand the way hot end temperature can lead to stringing, think of what happens when you feed filament into the extruder before a print.

The printer bumps the temperature way up, which causes the filament to flow uncontrollably out of the nozzle, creating a mound of plastic spaghetti on your print bed.

This is the pressure built up in the filament path (caused by the extruder gears pushing and the hot end liquifying the plastic) releasing through the only available opening, the nozzle.

It’s vital to have the correct hot end temperature for your filament type as recommended by the manufacturer to keep this pressure in check.

Set too high, this leads to over-extrusion manifested as stringing during travel moves and blemishes when printing, or retraction moves stretching rather than pulling the filament, negating the benefit of retraction.

By dialing down the temperature, you are effectively limiting the flow of filament and, by extension, oozing.

Here are the general ranges for each filament compatible with the Ender 3.

• PLA – 190°C to 230°C
• ABS – 210°C to 250°C
• TPU – 210°C to 230°C
• PETG – 220°C to 250°C

We recommend lowering the temperature in small increments. Doing so along with dialed Ender 3 retraction should help prevent stringing issues.

Travel Speed

Though not as impactful as retraction and temperature settings, travel speed can help prevent stringing.

By increasing the travel speed, you’re ensuring the nozzle shifts from printed area to printed area faster, limiting the window for oozing.

As always, balance is essential.

Pushing the travel speed too high can open the door to a host of other problems linked to print quality and under extrusion. Start with 150 mm/s and adjust upwards as needed, but avoid exceeding 200 mm/s.

Other Ways To Stop Stringing

Buy Quality Filament

However tempting it may be to save money by buying cheap filament, we recommend spending a little more on a proven, quality brand.

Poor quality additives and a shoddy manufacturing process can exacerbate stringing. Be sure to consult our guide to the best Ender 3 filament for our top recommended brands.

Proper Filament Storage

Good quality filament is one thing, but you must also store it correctly to keep it moisture-free. When water seeps into the filament, it can accentuate the oozing that leads to stringing.

As the moisture heats up, it releases extra pressure, which, when combined with the pressure caused by the extruder gear and hot end temperature, can push unwanted filament through the nozzle during travel moves. 

Check out our guide to storing filament the right way for more information.

Replace The PTFE tubing

If you’ve dialed in the proper settings, bought quality filament, and kept it dry, but stringing persists, then the problem is likely linked to the PTFE tubing degrading.

Through repeated exposure to high temperatures at the point where it meets the hot end, the PTFE tubing’s lubrication degrades over time, which can affect the efficiency of retraction.

Replacing or cutting back the Bowden tubing is one of the easiest Ender 3 upgrades. Check out our guide to best Ender 3 upgrades for more information.

Alternatively, you can eliminate the problem by upgrading your Ender 3 to a direct drive extruder setup, which doesn’t have Bowden tubing. Check the link just above for more details.

Maintain and Clean The Nozzle

Residual build-up on the nozzle is a natural part of 3D printing, especially if you’re a heavy user.

If left unchecked, this build-up can lead to stringing because it affects extrusion and can stick to fresh filament flowing from the nozzle.

Regularly wiping the nozzle with a wire brush or removing the part entirely for a thorough clean should eliminate the problem.

FAQs

If you enjoyed this article, check our other guides to learn more:

• Ender 3 Print Speed Preferences (Max for V2 & S1)
• 4 Methods to Fix PETG Stringing (Fixes 90% of Issues)
• Pillowing, Stringing, and Layer Splitting – Three of the Worst 3D Printer Issues Solved

That’s why I’ve decided to share the best Ender 5 Pro upgrades I’ve found from my 2 – 3 years using the printer.

I’d recommend most casual users add a new build plate for their first upgrade. The Creality flexible PEI build plate has made my prints more consistent, with better first-layer adhesion and scraper-free removal.

Makers who want to print with more materials should prioritize E3D’s V6 hot-end upgrade, which will let you print at the temperatures that PETG, PC, and nylon demand.

Those are my top two picks – but there are a ton of Ender 5 Pro upgrades that will improve the quality of your prints, as well as convenience add-ons to make your time with the printer more enjoyable.

This guide will share my recommendations for the upgrades I’ve personally found most useful – both paid and (more or less) free, 3D printed modifications.

3DSourced is reader-supported. When you buy through links on our site, we may earn an affiliate commission. Learn more

Paid Ender 5 Pro Upgrades

Ender 5 Pro Build Plate Upgrades

• Compatibility: Ender 5, Ender 5 Pro, Ender 5 Plus
• Price: $20-$25

Swapping out the stock Pro build plate is one of the most cost-effective Ender 5 Pro upgrades you can make.

Doing so improves first-layer adhesion – the first step to a successful print – opening the door to better performance with more demanding filament types. A better build plate also makes print removal a lot easier.

While there are numerous third-party options, Creality has done well to offer a good selection of in-house developed Ender 5 Pro build plate upgrades.

PEI-Coated Build Plate

The Creality flexible PEI build plate is a popular option that will set you back a reasonable $25.

The PEI surface has excellent adhesive properties and better first-layer adhesion compared to the stock plate, so there’s no need to rely on additional glue, tape, and the like.

The plate’s spring steel base attaches to the Ender 5 Pro’s magnetic bed, removing the need for clips, making it one of the easiest Ender 5 Pro upgrades to install.

Creality’s plate can handle temperatures up to 200°C and boasts well-distributed temperature stability. The build plate’s flexible properties allow scraper-less print removal; simply bend the plate, and prints pop off.

It’s a solid pick for PLA, ABS, PETG, and TPU printing.

Tempered Glass Build Plate

Creality’s Tempered Glass Build Plate is another popular option.

It’s made of tempered, strengthened glass with carbon and silicone thrown in for good measure, allowing it to handle temperatures up to 400°C.

The glass bed is compatible with virtually every filament type out there, with notably good PLA performance. Still, a bit of adhesive help, like tape or glue, for more challenging materials like ABS is often needed. 

The smooth finish makes it a top pick for makers who prefer a clean underside for their prints and don’t mind drafting in a handful of clips to keep the build plate in place. Expect to pay under $20 for Creality’s Tempered Glass Build Plate.

Ender 5 Pro Enclosure Upgrades

• Compatibility: Ender 5, Ender 5 Pro, Ender 5 Plus
• Price: $80-$90

If you plan on printing ABS or other materials sensitive to ambient temperature fluctuations, an enclosure is a must-have upgrade.

Without one more challenging filament types are likely to warp due to the open-air design of the Ender 5 Pro.

While you can piece together your own DIY solution and potentially cut costs, Creality conveniently offers its own manufactured solution designed to fit the Ender 5, Ender 5 Pro, and Ender 5 Plus.

Easily assembled and storable, the Creality enclosure consists of a flame-retardant, aluminum-lined tent that sits atop an iron pipe support frame.

It features a see-through window for print monitoring and a large zipped front door to access the printer.

The enclosure is designed to maintain a stable internal temperature and protect against drafts.

Additional benefits include protecting your Ender 5 Pro from airborne debris like dust. It’s the best Ender 5 enclosure I’ve found, and also provides a good level of noise dampening (helpful if you’re running overnight print at home).

Ender 5 Pro Auto-Bed Leveling Upgrades

• Compatibility: Ender 5 Pro
• Price: $40-$50

Although bed leveling is an unavoidable and necessary part of 3D printing, you can remove much of the difficulty and tedium by upgrading to automatic bed leveling.

Antclabs’ BL Touch sensor is a popular option, but Creality also has its own, cheaper CR Touch equivalent.

Both are compatible with the Ender 5 Pro.

Although the setup isn’t as straightforward as installing other Ender 5 Pro upgrades, the process is suitable for even those with little DIY 3D printer modification experience.

The BL Touch and CR Touch come in kits consisting of the required mounting brackets, cabling, and screws.

Ender 5 Pro Extruder Upgrades

• Compatibility: Ender 5, Ender 5 Pro, Ender 5 Plus
• Price: $50-$60

If you plan on printing with flexible filament like TPU, we highly recommend an Ender 5 Pro extruder upgrade.

An extruder with a shortened and tighter filament path ensures flexible filament doesn’t bend or jam, one of the major issues owners encounter with the stock Ender 5 Pro’s Bowden system.

E3D’s Titan extruder is among the most popular options and comes from a company with an established reputation for producing quality parts.

It’s a rugged but compact and lightweight extruder that allows you to use the Ender 5 Pro’s existing Bowden tubing with a simple adapter or shift to a direct drive system.

The latter involves a little more leg work and additional components, but significantly improves the Ender 5 Pro flexible prints.

Ender 5 Pro Hot End Upgrades

• Compatibility: Ender 5, Ender 5 Pro, Ender 5 Plus
• Price: $55-$60

For makers that want to dabble with more exotic filament than standard ABS and PLA, upgrading the Ender 5 Pro with a hot end capable of higher temperature opens the door to materials like PETG, PC, and Nylon.

E3D’s V6 is a solid pick with a loyal horde of adopters who are more than willing to sing its praises.

It features an all-metal design and can reach temperatures up to 300°C.

The precision heat break ensures better control over filament flow while enhancing retraction responsiveness, reducing potential oozing, and fixing stringing problems.

Ender 5 Pro Nozzle Upgrades

• Compatibility: Ender 5, Ender 5 Pro, Ender 5 Plus
• Price: $15-$20

Alongside an extruder upgrade, beefing up the Ender 5 Pro with a brand new nozzle can do wonders when working with abrasive filaments or as a way of extending the gap between nozzle replacements.

E3D’s hardened steel V6 nozzle and Micro Swiss’ A1 hardened steel plated nozzle are both excellent picks, suitable for materials like metal-fill, wood-fill, carbon-fiber fill, NylonX, and other specialist abrasive filament types.

Ender 5 Pro SD Card Extension Upgrades

• Compatibility: Ender 5, Ender 5 Pro, Ender 5 Plus
• Price: $15

More a convenience upgrade than a performance mod, an SD Card extension can tweak the Ender 5 Pro to accept full-sized SD Cards rather than the easily lost and hard to manipulate micro SD Cards. 

Creality has its own extension cable that plugs directly into the Ender 5 Pro SD Card slot with a ribbon leading to a standard SD Card slot.

The cabling can be a little unsightly and break the Ender 5 Pro’s aesthetic, but there are clever owner-made solutions to tuck it away, as we’ll see in the next section.

Free 3D Printed Ender 5 Pro Upgrades

Ender 5 Bed Support

To ward off any unwanted build platform movement or shifting, we recommend installing bed supports to add extra rigidity and improve printing performance.

The general format is two rigid support arms that sit below the platform. 

We particularly like Raggio’s version. To install the bed supports, you’ll need no more than a handful of zip ties for an extra snug fit, as the arms are designed to friction fit with the bed screws.

Bed Wire Strain Relief

Due to how the Ender 5 Pro is designed, the bed wiring is unsupported and prone to wear and tear as they connect and rub with the printer when the bed moves. 

To avoid fraying the cables and prevent malfunctions, or worse, a fire hazard, we recommend installing a bed strain relief add-on to support the cabling.

This bed strain relief model by grizzlyeric stands out for offering a friction fit instead of having to source a bolt. 

Extruder Wire Strain Relief

Much like the bed wires, the Ender 5 Pro’s extruder wiring is left to dangle with little support. It tends to rub against the printhead mount. In time, the cables can fray, causing all manner of issues. 

Installing a 3D printed extruder wire strain relief, such as this one by kawi63603, is an elegant way to ward off any potential problems.

It’s a small change, but it could save maintenance headaches and costs in the long run.

Tool Holder

Though not a necessary upgrade, a tool holder can tidy up the workspace around the Ender 5 Pro and offer easy access to your most-used accessories.

Thingiverse contributor rempel’s Ender 5 tool holder features a cutter holder, holes for Allen keys, a spot for a screwdriver, space for spanners, a spatula holder, and a scraper holder, all in a compact add-on that mounts directly onto the Ender 5 Pro’s frame.

Filament Guide

Bowden systems are notoriously prone to causing all kinds of trouble for the filament as it feeds into the extruder, especially flexibles which tend to bend, clog, and snap.

The Ender 5 Pro’s design means the filament has very little support before the extruder. A 3D printed filament guide is a must-have upgrade to give your filament a fighting chance.

D_jespersen, a prolific Ender 5 Thingiverse contributor, has come up with a simple but elegant solution that you can more or less 3D print yourself.

You’ll need some hardware and fittings to get it mounted, but once the installation is done, the guide will drastically reduce the amount of extruder-related problems.

Cooling Duct

If cooling is causing you warping and curling headaches, installing a cooling duct can significantly increase overall print quality.

McGybeer’s version sits below the printhead fan and redirects air to the printed filament while avoiding the nozzle for quick evacuation of hot air.

It’s compact, light, and mounts using the existing fan screws on the Ender 5 Pro.

Camera Mount

Another of the more optional Ender 5 Pro upgrades, an Ender 5 Pro camera mount is a handy add-on if you need to monitor prints remotely.

It mounts to Ender 5 Pro’s frame with 4mm bolts and T-nuts and pretty much does what it says on the tin. It’s designed for light cameras like the magnetic base Wyze and other low-cost, heavy-duty models.

Thanks to Thingiverse contributor FrogmanDave for the model.

SD Card/USB Holder

As any seasoned 3D printer will tell you, part of the hobby involves amassing a catalog of SD Cards and USB sticks.

To help you sort through these, keep them safe, and add a bit of quality-of-life sheen to your Ender 5 Pro, a dedicated SD Card/Holder is a great upgrade.

We particularly like Pugwash’s Thingiverse version as it’s built to friction sit in the printer’s V-Slot perfectly, a novel way to use the space and fill a gap that all too often attracts bits of stray filament.

Multiple versions are available with different SD, micro SD, and USB slot combinations to suit your needs.

If you’ve installed an SD Card extension, there’s also another option designed to house the cabling and sit on top of the Ender 5 Pro’s SD Card slot. It also features an Ender logo, so you’ll be keeping the printer’s branding intact with this one.

You can grab it here on Thingiverse, courtesy of maker BoothyBoothy.

FAQs

If you enjoyed this article, check our other Ender 5 guides to get some more inspiration:

• What are the Top Ender 5 Plus Upgrades?
• Best Ender 3 S1 Upgrades
• My Favorite Ender 5 Enclosures
• Ender 3 vs Ender 5 – Which is Right for You?
• Check the best Ender 3 mods here

But for most makers – using PLA and wanting a balance between speed and quality – I recommend 50 – 80 mm/s for your Ender 3 speed settings.

The Ender 3 can achieve a maximum print speed of around 200mm/s – but that’s only sustainable for very specific prints!

In this guide, I’ll discuss the best Ender 3 print speed settings I’ve found for all the main filaments, including:

• ABS – 40 – 60 mm/s
• TPU – 10 – 30 mm/s
• PETG – 20 – 40 mm/s

I’ll also explain the differences between the ideal settings for V2 and Pro variants of the Ender 3, too.

For clarity, we’ll focus exclusively on print speed as it appears in slicing software, measured in mm, and representing how much filament the Ender 3 can deposit for every second of printing.

Ender 3 Print Speed Settings For Different Filament Types

The factor that most impacts the Ender 3 print speed is the type of filament used.

Depending on the filament, the settings required are vastly different. We have a dedicated article that dives into the intricacies of the best Ender 3 filament for those wanting a more in-depth look. 

Below, you’ll find a brief breakdown of the best speed settings for the four most popular Ender 3 filament types – PLA, ABS, TPU, and PETG.

Ender 3 PLA Print Speed

If you’re just starting your 3D printing, PLA is likely your first port of call.

The Ender 3 shines brightest when printing this plant-based filament. Models, household items, figurines, toys, printer parts/mods – these are viable applications for PLA.

For a solid balance between Ender 3 print speed and print quality, we recommend 50-80 mm/s.

For parts where finish and detail don’t rank as top priorities, feel free to crank up the speed to reduce print times.

Among the Ender 3-compatible filaments, PLA is the least fussy, so don’t hesitate to experiment with higher speeds, especially if you’re not concerned about detail and finish quality.

Here are a few additional settings to get you started:

• Extruder Temperature – 190° to 230°, adjust based on manufacturer recommendations.
• Heated Bed Temperature – 60° should suit most PLA projects.
• Retraction Speed – 6 mm at 25 mm/s. Lowering retraction speed and raising the Ender 3 print speed can lead to stringing, so be wary of pushing these settings too far.

Ender 3 ABS Print Speed

ABS comes second to PLA as the most popular filament to use on an Ender 3.

As ABS is tough and durable (and more flexible than PLA), suitable applications cover all types of parts subject to heavy wear and tear.

Though the stock Ender 3 can print ABS out-of-the-box, an enclosure is a must-have add-on for the best results. Without one, you’ll grapple with warping and cracking issues.

Read our guide to the best Ender 3 enclosures for a few top buyable and DIY homemade recommendations.

Typically, the Ender 3 print speed can be set to around 60 mm/s for ABS, though you may have success dropping as low as 40 to 45 mm/s.

• Extruder Temperature – 220°C to 250°C. Again, refer to manufacturer recommendations.
• Heated Bed Temperature – Around 110°, though this can vary from brand to brand.
• Retraction Speed – 6 mm at 40 mm/s. Adjust as needed to lessen stringing.

Ender 3 TPU Print Speed

Known for its rubber-like properties, TPU offers a solid option for parts subject to heavy forces and impacts, such as sporting goods, phone cases, drive belts, bumpers, and RC car tires. 

Much like ABS, printing TPU with the stock Ender 3 configuration can be quite challenging. But, with a few choice upgrades, namely an all-metal hot end and Capricorn Bowden tubing, it’s possible to pump out excellent quality prints.

Check out our guide to printing TPU on the Ender 3 for more details.

When printing TPU, slow Ender 3 print speed settings are critical. We recommend around 25-30 mm/s at most. For solid first layer adhesion, we recommend as low as 10 mm/s.

Here are a few other recommended settings:

• Extruder Temperature – Typically, 210°C to 230°C. To reduce jamming, clogging, and TPU  sticking to the nozzle, you may want to crank the temperature up a few degrees above the manufacturer’s recommendations.
• Heated Bed Temperature – Unlike PLA and ABS, TPU doesn’t imperatively need a heated bed, but anywhere from 20°C up to 60°C should help the print process move along nicely.
• Retraction Speed – TPU prefers a shorter retraction distance and speed to limit the filament moving about inside the Bowden tube, which can lead to bending and clogging. Aim for 3 mm at 20 mm/s to begin, then move lower, but stop if you hit any signs of stringing.

Ender 3 PETG Print Speed

Borrowing the best properties of PLA and ABS, PETG filament is popular for being easy to print, odorless, durable, and flexible.

It’s the filament of choice for impact and temperature-resistant parts, notably those exposed to heat or the elements. PETG’s smooth finish makes it a solid alternative to PLA for decorative projects.

Though far easier to print than ABS and TPU, PETG can produce stringing issues if printed too quickly. Dial your Ender 3 speed to 40 mm/s. There’s also a marked uptick in quality at even slower speeds, such as 20 mm/s.

• Extruder Temperature – Manufacturers usually recommend 220°C to 230°C.
• Heated Bed Temperature – 65°C-70°C give or take a few degrees in each direction. It’s worth experimenting to find the best setting.
• Retraction Speed – The idea here is to reduce the potential for stringing, so we recommend 4 mm at 25 mm/s. Some Ender 3 owners report success with low retraction distances but higher retraction speeds, so feel free to experiment here to see what works best for you.

Ender 3 Print Speed Settings For Different Model/Part Types

The type of model/part also has an impact on Ender 3 print speed. In essence, determining the right speed depends on the level of detail or surface finish quality you’re aiming for.

Detailed Prints

As a general rule, very detailed models with plenty of fine detail require a slow speed.

A higher speed will churn through the print, which doesn’t give the printer enough time to carve out intricacies and small features.

For detailed prints, mainly decorative pieces such as models and figurines, we don’t recommend going any higher than 60 mm/s. Drop as low as you want, but try to find a balance to avoid prints taking days to complete.

3D printing takes long enough at the best of times, so it’s best to exercise restraint when it comes to print speeds.

Larger Prints

Conversely, a higher print speed is entirely reasonable for larger, functional parts where detail and aesthetics aren’t necessary. The same applies to parts with no details, such as large geometric shapes or functional 3D prints with little to no surface features.

Don’t hesitate to up the speed to 80 mm/s or even higher if you aren’t worried about how the print looks. Some Ender 3 owners report decent results at speeds up to 120 mm/s, though the final print invariably includes blemishes, imperfections, and signs of ghosting.

With all this in mind and, in keeping with 3D printing’s DIY roots, we highly recommend experimenting and tinkering with different Ender 3 speed settings to find that sweet spot between quality and speed.

Remember, there’s no perfect answer, and it ultimately comes down to what works best for your needs and projects.

Max Print Speed For All Ender 3 Models

So, how far can you push the Ender 3 print speed? According to official figures provided by Creality, here are the maximum print speeds for each Ender 3 model:

• Ender 3 – 200 mm/s
• Ender 3 Pro – 180 mm/s
• Ender 3 V2 – 180 mm/s
• Ender 3 Max – 100 mm/s
• Ender 3 S1 – 150 mm/s
• Ender 3 S1 Pro – 150 mm/s

It’s worth noting that these Ender 3 max speed values represent an absolute, theoretical cap on print speed, generally referring to Ender 3 travel speed rather than the speed at which filament is deposited. 

As such, we don’t recommend dialing in Ender 3 print settings anywhere close to these maximum limits. Key in a higher value and the firmware will either have a fit or push it back down to the max print speed.

It’s unlikely you’ll ever approach these speeds; if you do, the print quality and finish will suffer as a consequence. These breakneck speeds almost guarantee you’ll bump into a host of adhesion, stringing, ghosting, and layering issues.

For these reasons, the recommended Ender 3 print speed setting is much lower for most print projects at around 50-80 mm/s.

Can You Make Ender 3 Print Faster?

If you want to crank up the print speed on your Ender 3, should keep in mind that if you print too fast, the quality of the print can suffer. When you increase the print speed, you also run the risk of experiencing issues such as layer shifting, under-extrusion, and stringing.

To ensure that your prints come out as intended, it is best to gradually increase the print speed while keeping a close eye on the quality of the print. Make sure to check for any signs of the aforementioned issues as you gradually increase the speed. This way, you can find the maximum speed that your printer can handle without compromising the quality of your prints.

FAQs

If you enjoyed this article, check our other guides to improve your prints:

• The Most Effective 3D Printing Speed Settings for Each Filament
• Ender 3 Retraction Settings: Minimise Stringing for V2 & S1
• How long does it take to 3D print something?
• Best 3D Print Speed Settings for Every Filament

But, because the Ender 3 range only comes with single extruders as standard, plenty of people (myself included) choose Ender 3 dual extrusion upgrades.

The best Ender 3 dual extruder upgrade for most people will be the Chimera Project. It’s the most straightforward DIY mod to install, offering a great balance between cost and ease of use. You can also opt for a Mosaic Palette 3 for multi-color filament splicing.

Why Upgrade?

It adds the ability to print using more than one filament type at once, allowing multi-color projects and stronger, more reliable prints which require less post-processing.

There’s also the cost difference to take into account. Adding a dual extruder to your Ender 3 is significantly cheaper than simply buying a similar printer with a dual extruder already installed.

Remember – 3D printers with dual extruders as standard are normally around $600, over three times the price of a standard Ender 3.

So, how do you go about fitting your Ender 3 dual extruder? What should you take into account before getting started? And what are the best dual extruders out there for each Ender 3 model?

We’re going to answer all of these questions here.

Ender 3 Dual Extruder Options

The open-source community for the Ender 3 is huge, and there’s no shortage of people out there with cool ideas on how to modify and upgrade Ender 3 printers with laser engravers, improved frame guards, and even advanced touchscreens.

Because of this, it’s understandable to not know off the bat exactly which one is right for you. So here we’re going to look at some of the best and most reliable Ender 3 dual extruder upgrades you can check out today.

Mosaic Palette 3 / Pro

• Price: $599-$799 — Available at Matterhackers here

While technically more of an honorable mention than an actual Ender 3 dual extruder, the Mosaic Palette 3 and Palette 3 Pro are by far the simplest option to use your Ender 3 to make multicolored prints without needing to actively modify your printer.

This is great news if you’re unconfident or otherwise unwilling when it comes to taking tools to your Ender 3, but still want to make prints using different colors and filaments.

The Mosaic Palette models act as automatic switchers, like changing the orientation of a railway line to divert specific trains or uncoupled carriages in different directions. The Mosaic Palettes act as changers that swap between up to eight different filaments per print and automatically manage each one.

The downside is the cost. At around $700, they are not cheap machines. But if you’re not very handy and have the money to spend, this is the most streamlined way to attach what could be described as a ‘multi extruder’ to your Ender 3.

Chimera Project

The Chimera Project, named after the Greek concept of an animal amalgamation rather than an ideological improbability, is the first great example of a DIY dual extruder that was designed for the Ender 4 but is still compatible with all Ender 3 models.

A standard dual extruder that’s quite cheap to produce, the Chimera Project sits on a mount that you will need to print out yourself. While that sounds like extra steps, don’t discount how cool it is to use your 3D printer to make its own modification parts.

The instructions and necessary parts are all included and linked to in very clear detail on the project’s Thingiverse page here.

Safety precautions and recommended hardware are all laid out so even the most humble of beginners will have an easy enough time getting to grips with how it all works.

Regardless of your experience with DIY, this mode you’ll need to get this Ender 3 and 4 dual extruder up and running so long as you maintain caution and follow the instructions.

Cyclops Hot End

The Cyclops Hot End is a spiritual sibling of the Chimera. The two are usable with the same printed mount, and both can alternate between different filament colors and types mid-print. The Cyclops gets its name from the fact that it looks like a single extruder but has all the capabilities of a dual extruder.

As well as standard multi-filament printing, it can also mix filaments together. While it does act like more of a ‘filament management system’ than a standard dual extruder, it still performs all the functions you’d expect.

The instructions and files, along with some hints for building and use, are all found for free here. This Cyclops seems to be a reliable and very simple way to convert your Ender 3 to have a dual extruder, unlike actual cyclopes, whose implied lack of depth perception would likely render them far less menacing than their mythology would have us believe.

Proper Printing’s Dual Extruder Ender 3 Mod

Proper Printing has developed a unique kind of dual extruder that doesn’t require a second servo. Instead, this very interesting and surprisingly clever design relies on a spring mechanism that allows the two extruders to switch use seamlessly by operating like a teeter-totter.

The extruders move in a sort of slanted V shape, with only the active extruder being parallel to the build while the other is slanted to the side while not in use. This allows extruders to be used with the same servo instead of either one spending any time-wasting space by simply waiting their turn.

This minimizes the amount of build volume lost by conserving space as well as parts in its design.

Known internally as ‘The Rocker’ and available as printable files for only $3 on their website here, it’s an absolute steal for something no Ender user should go without.

While it is said to work on any standard Ender 3 model (that is, out of the box and since unmodified) it’s unclear as to whether it will function well with other 3D printers or more modern Creality Ender models.

Though since the $3 is for the files and instructions, you’re free to experiment and tweak to see if The Rocker does work with other 3D printers provided you’re confident and techy enough to do so.

You can even modify the design yourself if it doesn’t work right away with the model you have in mind, such is the beauty of mods!

Upgrading Your Ender 3 To a Dual Extruder: Pros and Cons

Upgrading your Ender 3 with a dual extruder may seem like a no-brainer. One is more than two, and therefore better. But, like most things relating to Ender 3 upgrades printers, it’s not quite as simple as it appears.

Dual extruders come with a host of benefits, but that’s not to say there aren’t drawbacks. While not a one-way modification (meaning you can go back to a single extruder if you want), installing an Ender 3 dual extruder only to then realize it wasn’t worth the hassle will be a waste of time, money, and effort on your part.

Equipping your Ender 3 with a dual extruder comes with some negative effects that, depending on your desired uses, may not be worth the effort after all. So be sure to keep these points in mind before deciding whether or not to break out your toolbox.

Pros

• Print with more than one filament/filament type at once.
• Multicolored prints are far easier and take less time because you won’t need to constantly switch your filaments mid-print.
• You can reinforce your prints with dissolvable filaments like HIPS and PVA for better surface finishes.
• Upgrading/modifying single extruder printers is often cheaper than buying dual extruder printers.

Cons

• Dual extruders are unwieldy and difficult for beginners to handle and manage.
• Unnecessary if you’re happy enough printing in one color.
• Far more maintenance, care, and cleaning are required to keep a dual extruder clean and functioning properly.
• Lower build area volume due to the larger extruder requiring more space.

Essentially, a dual extruder requires a lot more work and maintenance to use reliably than a single extruder. If you’ve got your sights on fortified and/or multicolored prints, then upgrading your Ender 3 with a dual extruder is a fantastic idea.

On the other hand, if you’re happy with monochrome prints or are otherwise not confident you could handle the upkeep, it might be best to stay with a single extruder.

However, if you’re willing to put in the work and are still convinced you want a dual extruder on your Ender 3 despite these cons, then we’re here to help you move forward.

Before Installing a Dual Extruder on Your Ender 3

Ender 3 models are equipped with single extruders by default. However, as we’ve seen with your options for adding laser engravers, they are highly modifiable machines. This means that, with enough know-how and effort, you can upgrade your Ender 3 with a dual extruder.

Be Safe and Sure!

There is no official dual extruder extension for the Ender 3, so you’ll need to get your DIY cap on. Just remember that you’ll be dealing with mechanical parts that are designed to get extremely hot, so make sure everything is switched off and unplugged before you begin.

In addition, remember that you’re working with moving mechanical parts, and will be manipulating them in ways for which they weren’t designed, like adding an extender cable to a standard outlet. So take the greatest of care to protect yourself and your machine while you work. Always double-check your equipment and instructions before beginning so you can move forward as confidently and safely as possible.

Modifiable as the Ender 3 is, be sure you take great care in upgrading yours. Removing and replacing parts must be done with care to ensure each piece functions correctly. An improperly installed extruder will back up or fail mid-print, which increases the risk of blockages, failures, and even fires.

Be Ready to Roll Up Your Sleeves

Any third-party modification to a device will require effort and know-how beyond what you’ll find instructions for in the box. User-guided, well-explained modifications will be much more reliable than selecting any old mod at random, but all will require at least some work on your end.

These upgrades are more often than not far more complicated than buying a new part and screwing it in, so be sure to read instructions carefully and carry out tests before you really put your new mod to use. Attention to detail and cautious handiwork are musts before you’re ready to plug in and get printing.

The main difficulty in installing your own dual extruder on an Ender 3 or any 3D printer is the requirement of an extra servo. While this isn’t the case for all dual extruders (we’ll get to that later) it is certainly the case for most, and the correct installation of said servo is very important and quite finicky.

FAQs

Other articles you may be interested in:

• Ender 3 vs Ender 3 V2 vs Ender 3 Pro vs Ender 3 Max: Compared
• Ender 3 vs Ender 5
• Ender 3 Hot End Upgrades
• The Best Direct Drive Upgrades for Ender 3

They range from standard 3D printing, to an all-in-one package with high-quality laser cutting, engraving, CNC, and dual extrusion printing. As such, they vary wildly in price and specs.

Snapmaker has created an impressive lineup of devices that work for a variety of different hobbyists and projects. In this article, we’ll cover the main selling points of each printer and which situations would make them a worthy purchase.

Let’s get started.

Snapmaker J1 vs Artisan vs 2.0 AT and F: A Quick Summary

Snapmaker J1

• Price: Check latest price at Snapmaker here
• Build volume: 300 x 200 x 200 mm
• Filament compatibility: PLA, ABS, HIPS, PC, TPU, TPE, PETG, ASA, PP, PVA, PA, PA-GF, PA-CF
• Layer height: 50 – 300 microns
• Printing accuracy: ± 0.1 mm
• Max extruder temp: 300°C
• Max bed temp: 100°C
• Connectivity: Wi-Fi, USB cable, USB flash drive

The Snapmaker J1 fits into an interesting niche compared to Snapmaker’s other 3D printers. It doesn’t have any of the multi-function capabilities of the Artisan or 2.0 models, but it does have IDEX (independent dual extruders).

These extruders open up a world of opportunities for 3D printing. You can use a wide range of filaments with it, like PLA, ABS, HIPS, and PC, as well as flexible filaments like TPU and TPE.

The J1 has a maximum extruder temperature of 300°C and a maximum bed temperature of 100°C. It includes an enclosure by default and uses a PEI glass plate. Combined with its build volume of 300 x 200 x 200 mm, it’s well-outfitted to handle a variety of projects.

It also has the quality of life features to make it welcoming to new and old hobbyists alike. The Snapmaker J1 has a filament runout sensor, a 5” touchscreen, and a simple auto bed-leveling system.

Ultimately, the J1 is an amazing option for anyone looking for an IDEX printer. It provides enough support and quality that even beginners could pick it up, which is great to see in a dual-extruder printer. The main downside, if you can call it that, is that the J1 isn’t built to be anything but a 3D printer – which might make you consider an Artisan or 2.0 instead.

Snapmaker Artisan

• Price: Check latest price at Snapmaker here
• Build volume: 350 x 400 x 400 mm
• Filament compatibility: PLA, ABS, ASA, PETG, TPU, Breakaway PLA, PVA, HIPS, Nylon, Carbon Fiber Reinforced Nylon, Glass Fiber Reinforced Nylon
• Laser cutting materials: Basswood, Paulownia, Pinewood, Plywood, Beech, Walnut, Bamboo, MDF, Leather, Fabric, Canvas, Corrugated Paper, Cardboard, Plastic, Dark Acrylic (Blue excluded)
• CNC materials: Hardwood (Beech, Walnut), Softwood, HDF, MDF, Plywood, Jade, Carbon Fiber, Acrylic, Epoxy Tooling Board, PCB
• Layer height: 50 – 300 microns
• Printing accuracy: ± 0.1 mm
• Max extruder temp: 300°C
• Max bed temp: 110°C
• Laser module: 10W
• CNC cutting module: 200W
• Connectivity: Wi-Fi, USB cable, USB flash drive

The Snapmaker Artisan is a high profile (winning the CES innovation award), high cost, and highly upgraded version of the 2.0 models. It uses a quick-swap design that’s reminiscent of the modular 2.0 F.

Included in the couple thousand dollar package is the ability to swap between 3D printing with a dual extruder, laser engraving and cutting, and CNC engraving and cutting. Despite being a 3-in-1 device, it doesn’t sacrifice the individual quality of any function.

The laser cutter module can work with a variety of woods, leather, plastic, and acrylics, while the CNC module can work with woods, plastics, carbon fiber, acrylics, and even stones like Jade. Both modules are high power: 10W and 200W respectively.

On the 3D printing side of things, you still have many options. The Artisan’s max extruder temperature of 300°C and max bed temperature of 110°C, paired with a dual-sided PEI and glass build plate and an enclosure, let you use filaments like PETG, ABS, TPU, Nylon, Carbon Fiber Reinforced Nylon, and more.

The Snapmaker Artisan doesn’t let up with smaller features, either. It boasts an updated UI and a 7” touch screen, which makes it easy to use.

Overall, the Artisan is an incredible tool that can only be replaced by purchasing high-quality versions of each machine separately. As it stands, its main pitfall is that it does lack some smaller features – possibly because it’s a 3-in-1 machine. It doesn’t have auto bed-leveling or a filament sensor, and the dual extruder is not IDEX.

Snapmaker 2.0 (AT Models)

• Price: Check latest price at Snapmaker here
• Build volume (A250T): 230 x 250 x 235 mm
• Build volume (A350T): 320 x 350 x 330 mm
• Filament compatibility (A250T and A350T): PLA, ABS, PETG, TPU, wood filled PLA, and similar
• Laser cutting materials: Wood, leather, plastic, fabric, paper, non-transparent acrylic
• CNC materials: Wood, acrylic, PCB, carbon fiber sheet, jade
• Layer height: 50 – 300 microns
• Printing accuracy: ± 0.1 mm
• Max extruder temp (A250T and A350T): 275°C
• Max bed temp (A250T): 100°C
• Max bed temp (A350T): 80°C
• Laser module: 1.6W
• CNC cutting module: 50W
• Connectivity: Wi-Fi, USB cable, USB flash drive

The A250T and the A350T are both complete packages including a 3D printer, a laser cutting module, and a CNC module. While neither of them are as expensive as the premium Snapmaker Artisan, they are reasonably well-equipped.

As the cheaper model, the A250T has a lower build volume of 230 x 250 x 235 mm compared to the A350T’s 320 x 350 x 330 mm. The work areas for the laser and CNC modules are the same, at 230 x 250 mm and 320 x 350 mm, respectively.

The differences are minimal aside from work area size. There’s a decent range of filaments, including PLA, ABS, PETG, TPU, and wood-filled PLA for both the A250T and A350T.

The maximum extruder temperature on both models is 275°C, which helps the ATs print with those trickier filaments like wood-filled and TPU. However, the laser cutting and CNC modules aren’t quite as impressive. The default laser is 1.6W, and you have to pay an extra few hundred dollars to get the 10W high-power laser module that comes with the Artisan by default. The 50W CNC head is also significantly weaker than the 200W Artisan CNC.

However, I still managed to cut wood with the 1.6W laser (I also have the 10W module for my Snapmaker 2.0, though), and fashioned an accurate chess piece using the 4-axis rotary module on some epoxy resin.

They come with a laser camera for seamless calibration, helpful carving bits for CNC work, and are perfectly designed for fast swapping between modules.

Although the AT models aren’t enclosed, they’re well-stocked with filament sensors, auto bed-leveling, and touchscreens. You can also read my full review of the Snapmaker 2.0 A350T.

Snapmaker 2.0 (F Models)

• Price: Check latest price at Snapmaker here
• Build volume (F250): 230 x 250 x 235 mm
• Build volume (F350): 320 x 350 x 330 mm
• Filament compatibility (F250 and F350): PLA, ABS, PETG, TPU, wood filled PLA, and similar
• Layer height: 50 – 300 microns
• Printing accuracy: ± 0.1 mm
• Max extruder temp (F250 and F350): 300°C
• Max bed temp (F250): 100°C
• Max bed temp (F350): 80°C
• Connectivity: Wi-Fi, USB cable, USB flash drive

Compared to the Snapmaker 2.0 AT and A models, the Snapmaker 2.0 F models are more about versatility and flexibility. They don’t come with any modules by default, but you have the option of purchasing them. As you might expect, they’re cheaper printers that work better for entry-level hobbyists.

Like the AT models, the F250 has a build volume of 230 x 250 x 235 mm compared to the F350’s 320 x 350 x 330 mm.

The filament compatibility is also the same on the F models compared to the AT models, with PLA, ABS, PETG, TPU, wood-filled PLA, and similar filaments. That’s because the build plate (double-sided PEI and glass) is the same, and the maximum extruder temperature (300°C) is actually higher than on the AT models.

As a 3D printer first and foremost, the F250 and F350 have filament runout sensors and auto bed-leveling – which are not with the Artisan.

Between the F250 and F350, Snapmaker claims to have upgraded the F350 to have much faster print times without sacrificing quality. Both F models have touchscreens and an upgraded cooling system.

The quality of the laser cutting/engraving and CNC modules should be about the same as on the AT models. Even the system of swapping them is more or less the same– the only difference is needing to purchase the modules separately.

However, the F models have a trump card over the 2.0 ATs: they have a dual extruder. They aren’t IDEX, but dual extrusion gives you more flexibility with your projects. Increased flexibility and versatility are what the Snapmaker 2.0 F printers are all about.

Comparison Showdown

Functions

Each Snapmaker device fits in its own unique niche.

Although they’re all makerspace-worthy, the Snapmaker Artisan has the most functionality overall. It can do laser engraving and cutting thanks to the higher power laser, CNC cutting, and dual extrusion 3D printing.

The Artisan is compatible with more modules than the AT or F models. You can see a complete list of compatible modules on the product page.

The only thing the Artisan doesn’t have are independent dual extruders, which are better compared to dual extruders built into the same print head. IDEX 3D printers can set different temperatures for each print head, and so print multiple filaments, and multiple objects simultaneously.

By a technicality, the AT models have more functionality than the F models – but only until you purchase modules to add. If you buy a laser engraving and a CNC cutting module, then you’ll have everything the AT models have – but with dual extrusion.

The J1 is dead last when it comes to functionality. It’s not made to be multi-purpose like the other Snapmaker devices, which isn’t necessarily a bad thing. The Snapmaker J1 does its job of being a high-quality IDEX printer quite well.

When making your decision, remember the differences between 3D printing capabilities between the printers are relatively minimal. They can all print quality designs using a wide range of filaments.

Build Volumes and Work Areas

The Snapmaker Artisan is meaningfully larger than all of the others at an impressive 350 x 400 x 400 mm. The Snapmaker 2.0 A350T and F350 are in second place, at 320 x 350 x 330 mm.

The Artisan, as a more ‘premium’ device, will give you the most leeway to create fun pieces. But we feel the work area alone likely isn’t worth the increased price. You should stick with the 2.0 A350T or F350 if you want a larger build volume and don’t need the extra features.

Although the Snapmaker J1 is a perfectly reasonable middle ground for a 3D printer at 300 x 200 x 200 mm, the smaller sizes of the Snapmaker 2.0 models might give you some trouble. Make sure you carefully consider not only what you want to 3D print, but which projects you would use CNC or laser modules on.

Temp Resistance and Wattage

Once again, the Snapmaker Artisan proves its higher quality through high-power CNC and laser modules, and a high-temperature extruder.

Most Snapmaker printers have similar max temperatures. However, you can swap in higher-quality pieces if need be.

Since the Artisan and 2.0 models are modular, you could get some of the Artisan’s specs on the 2.0 models. Compatibility can be found in the FAQ section of the Artisan’s product page.

The 10W high power laser module works for the A250T, A350T, F250, and F350 (I have the 10W module on my Snapmaker 2.0). 

However, the 200W CNC module that Artisan uses doesn’t work with any of the other 2.0 models. If you want CNC power, the Artisan is the way to go.

At base, the modules that come with the AT models aren’t all that special. The laser module uses 1.6W and the CNC module uses 50W, far from the Artisan’s quality.

It could be worthwhile to purchase a 2.0 F model and a 10W laser module if you’re the most interested in having the laser engraving/cutting capability. Keep in mind, though, that it won’t offer cost savings since the 10W laser module is $490 and even the F250 is $770 at base.

The benefit of opting for this path is that you’d get a higher-wattage laser for around the same price as the A350T. We also have a standalone review of the Snapmaker 10W laser module.

Filaments and Materials

Snapmaker tests materials and filaments for each printer in-house, which makes it easy to know which materials are good to go. Unfortunately, the materials that they’ve tested don’t truly run the gamut of what should be possible on their devices.

For example, the Snapmaker J1 and Snapmaker Artisan should be more than capable of handling wood-filled PLA, just like the various 2.0 models.

As you might expect, the Snapmaker Artisan and Snapmaker J1 have the best selection of usable filaments. The J1 gets bonus points for having IDEX, allowing it to use multiple filaments in the same print. Higher-quality laser and CNC modules on the Artisan makes for better material options, too. 

In the context of 3D printing, the enclosed designs of the J1 and Artisan are what set them apart the most. These designs allow for better temperature control, which in turn means you’ll find more success when printing with filaments like Nylon that need stable environments. You can also buy an enclosure for the 2.0 models though, and I bought the enclosure for mine for a few hundred extra dollars.

We think you’ll likely be able to use Nylon fibers on the Snapmaker J1 based on the specs and enclosure, though Snapmaker doesn’t explicitly list them as tested filaments.

Price

For Artisan’s high-quality modules and premium specs, you’ll pay a hefty $2,900. It’s not comparable to even the 2.0 A350T’s $1,200.

Aside from the J1, all of these printers use a modular design to swap in and out new functions. Since the Snapmaker Artisan has the best CNC and laser modules, it’s actually a good deal.

The Snapmaker 2.0 F250 and F350 may be the cheapest, but that’s only because they don’t include any modules in the package. To get a better idea of what the total price will be, make sure you’re including the modules or add-ons that you want in your calculations

You can also read up more on the Snapmaker 2.0 laser engraver and CNC toolhead before making any final decisions.

Snapmaker J1 vs Artisan vs 2.0 AT and F – The Bottom Line

We’re big fans of Snapmaker here at 3DSourced, and there’s a Snapmaker machine for every need – depending on what you prioritize. 

Let’s get the Snapmaker J1 out of the way first: it’s a great IDEX printer, no more and no less. We feel it’s a good option for beginners and more experienced hobbyists alike.

If you’re interested in Snapmaker devices for their modular designs, you’ll want one of the other machines. The Snapmaker Artisan is the best, hands down, in content and quality. We’d suggest purchasing the Artisan so long as you can swing the price.

It’s going to be cheaper for most casual hobbyists to purchase a 2.0 AT or F model. Considering the AT’s included modules, either the A250T or the A350T will be a better all-around choice.

The F models are geared toward versatility and customization, but they actually can’t use all of the modules that the AT models can since the 2.0 Fs are older.

If you opt for one of the 2.0 Fs, then you need to do your due diligence to make sure the lower price is really worth it – or if you’re just dooming yourself to a subpar experience.

Fortunately, it’s also easy to fix when you know the cause of the problem.

Let’s uncover the reasons why resin prints stick to the FEP film, and how you can quickly put this problem behind you.

Why Do Resin Prints Stick to The FEP Film Instead of the Build Plate?

Uneven or Unleveled Build Plate

A 3D printer’s build plate needs to be even and leveled at all times. When it’s even, it’s uniformly flat, and when it’s leveled it’s completely parallel to the FEP film (and it should also be free from resin residue, dents, and scratches).

Anything short of that can create printing problems, including first-layer adhesion. 

If parts of your first layer do not stick properly to the build plate, they’ll get left behind on the FEP film as the plate rises.

Low Bottom Layer Exposure Time

Exposure time is the amount of time the UV light hits the resin to turn it into a solid. The bottom layers of a print require more exposure time because they need to form a solid foundation to hold the entire print’s weight. 

If the bottom layer exposure time is not enough, these layers won’t cure and stick firmly to the build plate. Eventually, the print will fall off and the build plate will repeatedly press it into your FEP sheet as printing continues.

Low Lifting Distance

Once a layer has cured, the build plate rises away from the FEP film by one layer height. This movement also allows new resin to flow into the gap where the last layer was printed, to prepare for the curing of a new layer.

The distance the build plate rises is the lifting distance. When this distance is low, the print will not detach from the FEP sheet. It also means that there won’t be room for the new resin to flow into what would be the new gap. 

As the printing continues, the gap where resin is supposed to flow hardens and remains on the FEP sheet.

Fast Lifting Speed

Lifting speed is how fast the build plate pulls away a finished layer from the FEP sheet.

The faster the lifting speed, the greater the pulling force on a freshly cured layer, and the easier it is for this layer to peel away from the FEP film. 

When the lifting speed is too fast, and the plate adhesion is not strong enough, the print can detach from the plate and remain on the FEP film during lifting. 

Insufficient Contact With Build Plate

There are times when the contact between the print and the build plate is not enough. This can originate from slicing a model where some parts are thin and have narrow contact with the build plate. In such cases, the object will not stick to the build plate properly at these points. 

Insufficient contact makes it easy for the print to yank away from the plate and remain on the surface of the FEP sheet as the plate rises.

Loose FEP Sheet 

Sometimes, a print sticks to the FEP because the sheet is too loose. The FEP sheet stretches a little when pulled. If it is very loose, it will merely stretch along with the new layer still attached to it during the entire lifting distance.

The sheet, therefore, needs to be tight enough to resist the pulling force of the rising plate and allow a finished layer to go with the rest of the print. 

How To Stop Resin Prints Sticking To The FEP

To prevent a resin print from sticking to the FEP film, use rafts and always print on an even and level bed. You should also have enough bottom exposure time, a tight FEP sheet, and the right lifting speed and lifting distance.

Let’s see how you can do this in detail.

Even Out the Build Plate

The first step to getting an even build plate is removing any leftover resin residue from previous projects. To do this:

1. Unmount the build plate from the Z-arm of your printer.
2. Using a metal scraper, gently scrape off any visible residue.
3. To get a clean finish, pour some isopropyl alcohol on a clean, lint-free cloth and wipe the plate.

Minor scratches on the build plate are normal, especially because most of us scrape off our prints with sharp objects. But if the plate has deep scratches, dents, or grooves on it, these will require your attention. 

A good way to eliminate them is using sandpaper to smoothen the plate.

Level the Build Plate

3D prints stick much better to a build plate that is leveled. To level a build plate on a resin 3D printer:

1. Unmount the plate and ensure that it is clean.
2. Place the plate back onto the printer, but keep its screws loose.
3. If you have any resin in the resin tray, pour it back into the resin bottle using a funnel and filter paper.
4. Clean out the resin tray by dabbing it with paper towels and rinsing it with isopropyl alcohol. Avoid pouring liquid residue down the drain.
5. Attach the resin tray back to the printer and lower the build plate into the tray until the plate and FEP film makes complete contact.
6. Tighten the build plate to keep it in its new leveled position.

Increase Bottom Exposure Time

If the first layers of your prints are sticking to the FEP film, it could mean that they are not getting enough UV exposure time. Increase your bottom exposure time to make sure the resin in your first layers cures fully and sticks to the build plate.

Bottom exposure time is not set in stone. But a good range should be 8-12 times the normal exposure time for the print.

You don’t want to go overboard with this setting because too much of it can make it hard to remove the print, especially if you’re using strong 3D printer resin. Even worse, a bottom layer exposure time beyond 30 seconds can cause the printer to overheat.

Lower Lifting Speed

With lifting speed, you want to get a rate that allows newly cured layers to peel off the film while allowing the rest of the print to remain on the build plate. Keep in mind that as lifting speed lowers, printing time increases. 

You can experiment with lifting speed until you find a sweet spot, but I find that 1-3 mm/s usually causes no problems.

Increase Lifting Distance

The lifting distance should allow the build plate to rise high enough to completely peel off a printed layer from the FEP film. You don’t want it to be too high because those extra millimeters will only take up more printing time.

6 mm is a common default lifting distance, but you can increase it up to about 8 mm if you’re dealing with large prints.

Use Rafts

A raft is a thin mesh of throwaway material on which your print sits. Before the printer prints a model, it can create a raft that sticks firmly to the build plate. This way, even if your model has thin contact point areas, they will attach to the raft that is sticking nicely and firmly onto the plate.

Some people feel that a raft is a waste of resin. However, if you’re constantly having blobs of resin stuck onto your FEP film, the benefits of a raft certainly outweigh the cons. 

Most slicers have a raft feature that you can enable. You can also fine-tune what the raft will look like by tweaking these settings:

• Raft Margin: how far the raft extends around the model. Your raft should essentially be slightly bigger than your model.
• Raft Air Gap: the distance between the top layer of the raft and the bottom layer of the model. The greater the raft air gap, the less bonding you’ll have between your model and raft. Increasing this gap will make it easier to peel off the model from the raft, but keep in mind that the model still needs to stick sufficiently onto the raft. 

Because you’re adding an extra part at the bottom, make sure that the Bottom Layers value includes the total number of layers in the raft plus a few extra layers for the bottom of the actual print. This will ensure that both the raft and the first layers of the print cure solidly. 

If you are printing at a 0.05 mm layer height, try a raft layer height of 0.15 mm with 5 bottom layers. If you are printing at a 0.02 mm layer height, use a raft layer height of 0.08 mm with 6 bottom layers 

Adjust FEP Sheet Tension

You need your FEP sheet to be taut enough and not overstretch as the build plate lifts off a printed layer. To adjust the FEP sheet tension:

1. Take out the resin vat and turn it upside down.
2. Using an Allen wrench, tighten the screws on the back of the FEP frame one by one.
3. To check how tight the sheet is, lightly tap it with a finger or something soft. Avoid using any sharp or rough objects because these can put a dent in the film. As you tap on the film, it should sound similar to a snare drum.
4. An indirect measure of tightness is the frequency of the sound the film makes as you tap on it. This frequency is measured in Hertz (Hz), and the higher the frequency, the tighter the tension in the sheet.
5. A good spot is 325 Hz, which you measure using a frequency spectrum phone app such as Spectroid. This step will require alternation between tapping on the film, seeing the frequency it makes on the app, and loosening or tightening the screws until you get the required frequency.

How To Remove Stuck Resin From FEP & Dispose Of It

If you’ve successfully found a solution to the stuck resin, the next thing you want to do is remove and discard it safely. Because FEP sheets are prone to mechanical damage, it’s vital that you do this carefully.

How To Remove Stuck Resin From FEP Sheet

1. Wear safety gloves and remove the resin tray from the printer.
2. Pour any leftover resin back into the resin bottle to avoid wasting it. A funnel and thin paper filter will prevent any solid residues from getting into the bottle.
3. Place the resin tray on top of a soft cloth and hold it in your hand.
4. Use paper towels and gently dab any resin left in the tray.
5. Once all the resin is out, locate a spot on the FEP sheet that has stuck resin. Apply some upward pressure using a finger directly under that spot.
6. Scoop out the residue using a silicone spatula. Avoid using hard materials as you’re handing the FEP film. Repeat this for all the spots that have stuck resin.
7. Rinse out the tray using some isopropyl alcohol, let it dry, and place it back into the printer.

If the stuck resin is too small to scoop out, consider using the FEP cleaning/tank cleaning function.

How To Dispose of Resin 

Unlike FDM filaments, liquid resin requires extra care because it can be toxic to both the body and the environment. This also applies to eco-friendly and water-washable resin. 

However, solid resin is not dangerous, so the best way to deal with used resin is first to let it cure. Never flash or pour liquid resin down the drain.

As you clean your tank, remember to put any rinsed-out resin and used paper towels into a separate container. When you’re done cleaning, put this container under direct sunlight to let it turn into a solid. After that, you can dispose of it with normal trash. 

Normally, fixing 3D printer filament stuck in this tube is a fairly easy process. If it’s a minor clog, then you’ll find that simply pouring hot water through the PTFE tube will safely flush out stuck filament without harming the PTFE tube itself, which is capable of withstanding much hotter temperatures than boiled water.

However, depending on the filament and how bad the clog is, you may need to resort to more complex methods. 

So, I’m going to explain in this article what causes the filament to get stuck in the PTFE tube, how to fix the issue depending on its severity, and how to best avoid it happening again in the future.

What Causes Filament to Get Stuck in the PTFE Tube?

The most common cause of PTFE blockage is low-quality or damaged filament. Older or wet filament is more likely to break while it’s being fed through the tube and become lodged. Another common cause is overly aggressive retraction settings. 

While retraction is important, having it set too high can cause too much filament to be brought back up through the nozzle, which clogging the PTFE tube. 

This is especially common with Bowden extruders, which tend to have longer feeding distances and are more prone to retraction issues.

How Do You Prevent Filament Getting Stuck in the PTFE Tube?

The best way to fix the issue of filament getting stuck in the PTFE tube is to prevent it from happening at all.

Following these guidelines is a good way to lower the risk of running into this and various other problems in the future.

Use a High-Quality Filament

Low-quality or broken filament is far more likely to break and fracture while being fed through the PTFE tube, sticking to the inside of the tube, or feeding incorrectly and becoming stuck to the extruder.

Using high-quality filament from trusted manufacturers and keeping them in good condition by protecting them from direct sunlight, dusty conditions, and airborne moisture will ensure your materials arrive and stay reliable.

If you’re unsure of how to do this, or are worried that your filament has already become too wet, you can check out our guides on how to properly store filament and our recommendations for drying out wet filament.

Not only will this prevent it from getting stuck in the PTFE tube, but will also help you avoid numerous other 3D printing issues like warping, bubbling, and stringing.

Keep the Tube Clean

Just like sink drains, PTFE tubes run the risk of becoming clogged over time, no matter how careful you are. And just like these drains, the best way to stop it from becoming a problem is to keep it clean before any blockages become too much of an issue.

The best way to do this is to use a cleaning tool like a sponge or tissue soaked in hot water and threaded through the PTFE tube. If the clog isn’t particularly severe or you just want to clean it as a regular task, then letting hot water through it will help get rid of any filament particles or dust that could lead to problems down the line.

Just be sure the cleaning material is non-abrasive, as PTFE tubes, while resistant to heat, can still become damaged by rough surfaces.

Use the Correct Temperature

Filament heated at incorrect temperatures also runs the risk of getting stuck in the PTFE tube or extruder. 

This happens mostly when the temperature is set too low, as the filament hardens too quickly when cooled and sticks where it’s not supposed to, like in or on the extruder.

When in doubt, always double-check your filament’s temperature settings and make sure you stay within the range. If you’re still having problems, then increase the temperature in 5℃ increments until the filament extrudes smoothly as expected.

Ensure Proper Tension

Tension refers to the ease with which the filament is threaded through the PTFE tube and into the extruder. If there’s any friction or the filament isn’t fed straight, this can cause it to bunch up and clog the tube.

You can ensure proper tension and reduced friction by making sure the filament is fed smoothly through an undamaged PTFE tube that’s also free of debris and other previous blockages. If your PTFE tube has become damaged, leading to problems with tension, then you may need to get a new one.

If this is the case, then we recommend upgrading as well as replacing. Always double-check the heat and damage resistance of your PTFE tube before purchasing a new one, and try to avoid getting it on the cheap.

Use a Filament Guide

Filament guides are add-ons for your 3D printer that help feed the filament into the PTFE tube as smoothly and uniformly as possible to ensure reliable extrusion and printing. 

Just like needle threaders, they simplify filament feeding by removing the more precise manual work.

We recommend using a filament dry box that comes with a filament guide to maximize both efficient feeding as well as filament quality to get the best results.

Check For Wear and Tear

3D printer parts wear out over time and become less reliable. This can be as simple as loose screws that need tightening, or parts and pieces needing complete replacement.

PTFE tubes are the same, especially if you’re using particularly abrasive filaments. If it becomes too worn and scratched, then you’d do well to replace it with something stronger, like a Teflon tube.

It’s a good idea to check your 3D printer for wear regularly, even if you aren’t running into issues. This is especially important if you use your 3D printer particularly often.

How To Remove Filament Stuck to the Outside of the PTFE Hotend? 

1. Prepare your equipment

• What you need: Pliers, tweezers, a cleaning needle (or similar long, thin device), heat-resistant gloves, a screwdriver, hex drivers, and your 3D printer’s user manual

Gathering the above tools (and the correct sizes) is the first step in removing filament stuck to the outside of the PTFE hotend.

Not all 3D printers will require these tools to remove the PTFE tube for cleaning or reassembly, but they are good to keep handy just in case.

Before moving to step 2, be sure to put on your heat-resistant gloves to avoid any injury from heated parts or cleaning materials.

2. Remove the PTFE tube

Following the guide in your 3D printer’s user manual, open the extruder carriage. This will reveal where the PTFE tube is attached to your printer.

Removing the tube is often as simple as pushing on the connector to loosen the teeth that hold the PTFE tube in place. Though keep your manual handy in case your 3D printer is different.

You may need your screwdriver, depending on how your PTFE tube is attached to the printer.

3. Clear out the stuck filament

Using a vice or similar to hold the PTFE tube in place (even having someone hold it should suffice), feed the cleaning needle through the tube to remove any filament stuck to the inside. 

While any thin material will do, using the filament of appropriate width is often the best method to make sure the PTFE tube is cleared thoroughly.

Depending on the severity of the blockage, you may need to heat up what you’re feeding through to help dislodge any stuck filament.

4. Reassemble

Once you’re confident that the tube is clear, reassemble the parts carefully to make sure everything is back where it belongs. 

Once complete, run a small test print to make sure everything is where it should be and in good working order.

How To Remove Filament Stuck to the Inside of the PTFE Hotend?

Filament stuck inside the hotend is another issue you may run into, especially if you’re using low-quality or wet filament. Fortunately, you can remove this stuck filament with just a few simple steps. 

1. Partially unscrew the nozzle

Unscrewing the nozzle partially loosens the part connecting the hot and cold printer parts, known as the heartbreak. You’ll be able to identify this via the user manual if you’re unsure.

2. Unscrew the heater block from the heartbreak

Unscrewing the heater block from the heartbreak is a simple process that can be done by hand. If it’s too tight, then unscrew the nozzle slightly more to loosen it enough to be done manually.

3. Remove the heartbreak from the heatsink

Once loosened, you can manually unscrew the heatsink from the heartbreak. This can normally be done with your hands, but you may need to use your tools if it’s too tight.

However you go about it, be sure to apply a very delicate touch with this step. The connector between the heatsink and heartbreak is often thin and easily broken, so take care when removing it to avoid further need for repair.

4. Push down the ring on coupling and push PTFE tube down

With the previous parts disconnected from each other, the end of the PTFE tube should be exposed. Pushing it downwards will thread it through and allow easy access for step 5.

5. Pull the tube out the other end

With the other end of the PTFE tube exposed, you can now pull it through and free it completely. You may find that this process itself will dislodge some stuck filament, so try to have a paper towel or similar handy to catch any that falls out.

6. Remove the filament 

Once free, use an appropriately wide tool to remove any filament caught within and around the PTFE tube and hot end. 

This is also a great opportunity to check over your parts and make sure there’s nothing anywhere else that’s inhibiting smooth filament feeding and printing.

If you’re having trouble removing particularly stubborn blockages, boiling the PTFE tube in clean water will help melt and loosen any stuck filament. Don’t worry about the tube when doing this, they’re designed to withstand higher temperatures than boiling point.

7. Reassemble

Taking care not to damage any parts, refit the PTFE tube and reverse the order seen above to reattach the heatsink, heartbreak, and heater block before screwing the extruder back to be tight.

After double-checking that everything is now clean and back where it should be, run a test print to make sure everything is working efficiently, and you’re done!

That’s not to say the Ender 3 S1 isn’t already a great machine. On the contrary, Creality has made some excellent upgrades on the S1: namely a direct drive extruder, automatic bed leveling, and a refreshed overall design, but it can still benefit from upgrades.

Whether you own an Ender 3 S1 and fancy leveling up its printing potential, or are weighing up the merits of buying one, this guide has you covered with a dive into the best upgrades for Ender 3 S1.

Is the Ender 3 S1 a Good Choice for Upgrades?

Yes, the Ender 3 S1, like the previous Ender 3 printers, is very versatile. It keeps to the standard gantry style FDM construction we know and love, which means an open design, leaving plenty of space for upgrades. 

Like other Creality printers, it’s mostly open source, and taps into the DIY ethos that defined the early days of consumer-level 3D printing.

But, where the Ender 3 S1 differs from the original Ender 3 and even the more recent Ender 3 V2, is that it’s already well-equipped for tougher print jobs – even without any upgrades.

Creality balance out-of-the-box usability and functionality, while still allowing plenty of scope for upgrades, knowing that the community would want to make a great printer even better. 

In a sense, the Ender 3 S1 is a refinement of all the community’s upgrades for the original Ender 3, which Creality wisely caught on to and integrated.

Another aspect that makes the Ender 3 S1 so popular is the range of upgrades available. So many of the original Ender 3 upgrades are also compatible with the Ender 3 S1, meaning there’s years of upgrades out there for you to choose from. 

Whether it’s the heated bed, the print head, the filament sensor, cabling, or adding convenience-based upgrades like LED lights or a webcam, you’ll find every flavor of upgrade out there without having to dig too deep at all.

Additionally, because of what a good printer it is when it leaves the factory, the Ender 3 S1 has sold well, leading to a thriving community working hard to share and propagate upgrades to help other users improve their machine.

Best Ender 3 S1 Upgrades

Though there are hundreds of potential upgrades out there, we’ve hand-picked our selection of the best ones out there.

Fan Duct Upgrade

• Parts Required: 3D printed fan duct and a set of screws
• Cost: No more than $5.00 in filament and screws
• Manufacturer: N/A
• What It Upgrades: Improves filament cooling as it leaves the hot end

While the existing fan duct on the Ender 3 S1 is by no means shabby, the printing process can always benefit from some beefed-up cooling. 

This upgrade fastens a chunkier fan duct to the printer, channeling more air to the filament as it’s extruded to offer more streamlined airflow, improving overall quality and speeding up the bonding process for tougher, more durable prints.

As upgrades go, a new fan duct costs next to nothing because you can print the part yourself and only need to buy a few screws to attach it to the print head. 

Better yet, it’s compatible with both the Ender 3 S1 and Ender S1 Pro. Installation is fairly straightforward, latching onto the Ender 3 S1 print head assembly and doesn’t involve any modifications.

PEI Flexible Build Surface Upgrade

• Parts Required: PEI flexible build plate
• Cost: Check latest price at Amazon here
• Manufacturer: Creality
• What It Upgrades: Better high-temperature filament adhesion and easier print removal

The stock PC flexible build surface that ships with the Ender 3 S1 is adequate, but installing a PEI flexible plate can improve performance when working with more temperature-sensitive and demanding filaments. 

It also improves adhesion thanks to its rough texture, while the flexible characteristic makes removing prints effortless, with a simple flex popping off the finished print.

Creality offers its very own PEI flexible build surface over on the Creality Store, but you can get a third-party version for about half the price without much difference in quality, if you prefer. 

Though, check you’re getting the right size for your Ender 3 S1 or Pro. As upgrades go, installation is by far the easiest: simply remove the existing plate, and snap on the new PEI replacement using the bed’s magnetic surface.

Webcam Upgrade

• Parts Required: Webcam
• Cost: $50 – $300
• Manufacturer: Various
• What It Upgrades: Remote print monitoring and recording

A webcam upgrade allows you to monitor prints remotely – great if you’re worried about errors ruining a 12-hour print. 

You can also capture video, time-lapses, and stills to share on forums, YouTube, and with other maker friends. While it’s by no means a necessary upgrade, a webcam is a nice luxury to have for more serious makers who lean on programs like Octoprint to control and monitor their printing setup.

As for what webcams, there are countless options out there, with a variety of potential picks covering all resolutions, frame rate, focus-types, and so on. 

We’ve written a dedicated article about the best webcams for 3D printing for details, but for us, the Logitech C920 and Raspberry Pi camera module V1 are two of the best to pair with the Ender 3 S1 and Ender 3 S1 Pro. 

If your budget allows it, aim for 1080p and 30 FPS, along with a webcam that comes with a mount.

Bed Handle

• Parts Required: 3D-printed bed handle
• Cost: A few dollars of filament
• Manufacturer: N/A
• What It Upgrades: Easier and safer bed movement

A bed handle upgrade is about pure convenience and makes interacting with the bed much safer when it’s heated up to printing temperature. 

You can 3D print this upgrade rather than buying, and then fix it to the bottom of the bed via the existing knobs, so there’s no need for any additional hardware. Your only cost is the filament, making this a cost-effective option.

It’s by no means strictly necessary and doesn’t improve the printing performance of the Ender 3 S1 and Ender S1 Pro, but the curved design does make pulling the bed out at the end of the print to remove a model a lot more straightforward.

All-Metal Heat Break

• Parts Required: Creality All-Metal Hot End Kit
• Cost: Check latest price at Amazon here
• Manufacturer: Creality
• What It Upgrades: Print at a higher temperature

The hot end on the stock Ender 3 S1 is capable, and fares well with filaments like PLA and ABS, but is lined with a PTFE tube that can degrade over time at temperatures exceeding 250°C. 

This degradation not only affects the structural integrity of the tubing, affecting printing performance – but also releases toxic fumes.

By upgrading to an all-metal hot end, you remove these potential issues, opening the door for printing at higher temperatures, and therefore more filament options. For convenience and guaranteed compatibility with the Ender 3 S1, we recommend Creality’s All-Metal Hot End Kit.

There are some downsides here, though, namely that all-metal hot ends require more retraction tweaking as filament tends to attach to the heat break cavity if retracted too far. 

Another potential issue linked to this is clogging caused by heat creep. The filament may melt earlier than required, causing it to solidify in the heat break and clog the pathway. To counteract this, you’ll need to dial in cooling along with the right Ender 3 retraction settings.

Note: the Ender 3 S1 Pro already houses an all-metal hot end, courtesy of its Sprite Extruder Pro extruder/print head.

Improved Heated Bed Insulation

• Parts Required: Sheet of insulation
• Cost: Check latest price at Amazon here
• Manufacturer: Any brand
• What It Upgrades: Less power consumption and improve heated bed temperature stability

Again, the stock Ender 3 S1 heated bed is perfectly fine, but lacks some efficiency as it has no insulation material to maintain temperatures, requiring more power to get up to temperature and keep it toasty enough during the printing process. 

All you’ll need is a sheet of insulation (cotton is a popular option) specifically designed for heated beds, which then sticks to the bottom of the build surface. 

Most of the sheets come with an adhesive side, making installation extremely easy and straightforward. Just make sure you buy a sheet that matches the dimensions of the Ender 3 S1 – 220 x 220 mm.

Note: the Ender 3 S1 Pro already has bed insulation, so this upgrade isn’t needed.

Better Cable Management

• Parts Required: 3D-printed holder
• Cost: $2 – $5
• Manufacturer: N/A
• What It Upgrades: Keeps cables in good condition for longer

The Ender 3 S1 is a tidy printer as is, but there’s still room for improvement when it comes to cable management. 

The biggest culprit is the chunky ribbon cable that runs from the print to the printer mainboard case. 

While the rugged exterior of the cable housing does well to cut down on fraying, using a 3D-printed part to keep it out of the way of jagged parts as it moves with the printhead can help keep it in top condition for longer.

The cable for the stepper motor mounted on the frame and the X-axis endstop cable are also susceptible here, so it’s worth tidying things up. 

We’re fans of this holder on Thingiverse as it’s neat, easier to print, mounts directly to the frame, and has housings for all these cables, making it an efficient solution. It’s also cheap, costing nothing more than the filament required to print it.

LED Lights

• Parts Required: Creality Ender 3 S1 LED Light Bar Kit or LED light strips
• Cost: $10-$25
• Manufacturer: Creality and others
• What It Upgrades: Style points and better view of printer for monitoring, videos, time-lapses

An LED light upgrade can be useful if you’re working in low-light conditions or want better lighting for monitoring, video, or time-lapse recordings. 

It’s by no means necessary and doesn’t improve performance, but does add valuable style points to the overall look of your Ender 3 S1 or Ender 3 S1 Pro.

There are two main options. The first is to install Creality’s LED Light Bar Kit, designed specifically for the Ender 3 S1 and Ender 3 S1 Pro. It’s designed to fit into the frame of the Ender 3 S1, so is easy to set up and shines light directly over the build surface.

The second option is to attach light strips vertically to the frame. These come with adhesive sides, so are very easy to install and cost no more than $10. They are typically powered by USB, allowing you to plug them directly into the printer for power.

Why Upgrade the Ender 3 S1?

Though the Ender 3 S1 is vastly improved over the original Ender 3, no printer is perfect. 

Useful upgrades for the Ender 3 S1 include improved cable management, drawer inserts, and bed handles for example, which makes using the printer that much more enjoyable.

Elsewhere, there are upgrades that improve the Ender 3 S1’s performance, such as switching to an all-metal heat break to mitigate the natural degradation of the PTFE lining of the factory heat break, especially if you’re dabbling with tougher filaments. 

Similarly, switching to a different build plate, notably a flexible PEI variant, can improve bed adhesion and make print removal much easier.

Lastly, there are functionality upgrades to turn the printer into a fully decked-out setup. We’re talking webcams for print monitoring, OctoPrint integration for remote control and monitoring, and even LED lights to jazz up the printer’s overall look and shine a light on its hard work as the print head whizzes back and forth during the printing process. 

These aren’t essential, but are increasingly popular among more serious makers who make heavy use of their Ender 3 S1.

A 3D printer is not hard to use or learn for the most part. The hardest things about 3D printing are learning how to use software to design models of 3D objects from scratch, as well as how each printer setting affects the printing process.

In this article, I’ll talk about why 3D printing can be difficult and how you can simplify it. I’ll also unpack the best ways to learn 3D printing and recommend some of the most user-friendly 3D printers you can buy.

Why is 3D Printing so Hard to Learn?

3D printing is difficult to learn mainly because the 3D modeling stage requires architectural, geometric, and visual art skills. It also takes some time to wrap your head around printer calibration and best practices for specific printing materials. 

Fortunately, there are a few tips and techniques that can make 3D printing fun and easy, even if it’s your first time using a 3D printer. Let’s dive into some of these.

How To Make 3D Printing as Easy as Possible

With the right advice, 3D printing shouldn’t be hard for anyone. Here is how you can make 3D printing incredibly simple.

Buy an easy-to-use 3D printer

Not all 3D printers are the same. Some are created to work on complex projects, making them a nightmare for beginners. They often use 3D printing technologies that require extra caution and practice.

FDM 3D printers are the simplest to use for beginners, though resin printing has become far more accessible over the last few years. FDM printers and their software are ideal, as many of the best settings are automated to save you hours finding the right settings or troubleshooting printing problems. 

Some features to look out for in an easy-to-use 3D printer include:

• Ease of assembly
• Simple 3D printing software
• Automated features such as bed auto-leveling
• Large online community of users

Use simple software

There are two main types of software you’ll be using: 

• 3D modeling software: if you’re designing your own models before printing
• 3D slicer software: for slicing the model so you can 3D print it in layers

3D modeling is the process of using 3D modeling software to create a digital model of the 3D object you want to make. 

When you’ve finished creating the model, you can save it onto a USB stick and plug the stick into a 3D printer (or transmit via WiFi if your printer has it).

There’s a bit of a learning curve with any 3D modeling software. But some software is easier to learn than others. It still doesn’t mean you should settle for software with only basic functions just because it’s easy to use. 

The best 3D modeling software for beginners is Tinkercad. It has a simple user interface that lets you drag and drop multiple basic shapes to create a 3D model, just as you would with Legos. Even kids find it easy to play with, so it’s no surprise that it’s the most common 3D modeling software in schools.

From there, your 3D slicer handles the settings you print with, such as how tall each layer is when you print, how fast you 3D print, and many other settings.

The most user-friendly slicing software is Cura, with built-in settings for most printers so you don’t need to adjust anything if you’re unsure what they do. To learn more, we also have an article on the best slicer settings, as well as a list of the best 3D slicing software.

Download premade models

Mastering 3D modeling puts you miles ahead of most 3D printing enthusiasts, but it requires plenty of time and experimentation. 

Luckily, there’s a cure for this if you just want to get started quickly — downloading premade models that someone has already modeled and uploaded online. Now you can skip through the mental gymnastics of designing your own model from scratch. 

You can find premade models of anything, from action figures to fashion accessories, and common household items. If you’re wondering what you can make with a 3D printer, check out these trusted sites for premade 3D models to get some inspiration. We’ve also written about the 50+ coolest things you can 3D print, with download links for each file.

Use high-quality filaments

Your choice of 3D printing filament can cause either pride or frustration in your 3D print. 

The problem with poor-quality filament is that you can do everything right but still end up with a messy print. But high-quality filament ensures that your printer runs smoothly and your prints come out right. 

By far, the most popular filament for both beginners and professionals is PLA. It’s an affordable, general-purpose filament that’s compatible with many printers and easy to work with. It’s also biodegradable and comes in a wide range of colors.

But being the most used filament on the planet means there are countless PLA brands out there. Our selection of the best PLA filaments will help you cut through the noise and make an excellent choice.

Ensure there is good ventilation

It’s important to put safety first. 3D printers work by melting plastic filament and pushing it through a narrow nozzle to create an object layer by layer. 

This process may release some fumes that can be hazardous, especially if you’re using a filament like ABS.

Good ventilation ensures that you don’t inhale large amounts of these vapors. Before you print, place your 3D printer in an open space that allows enough fresh air in and used air out. If you can, do your printing outdoors.

If ventilation is a serious problem for you, you can switch to an enclosed 3D printer or cover your printer with a DIY 3D printer enclosure. They keep 100% of the fumes trapped away while drastically reducing any noise from the 3D printer.

Get good safety equipment

You can take your safety game to the next level by investing in some safety equipment for your 3D printing sessions. Some items you can add to your safety stack are:

• Nitrile gloves
• Overalls
• Eye protection goggles
• Respirators

What is the Best Way to Learn 3D Printing? 

Knowing your way around a 3D printer is a long-term goal. The most important thing is to enjoy your printing sessions while you get better. Here are a few fun ways to learn 3D printing.

Online tutorials

Online tutorials help you understand basic and complex 3D printing topics from experts around the world. 

They’re available everywhere on the internet. At the click of a button, you’ll find how-to guides, quick-fix tips, and best practices for virtually anything related to 3D printing.

Learning how each of the slicer settings affects your print is one of the best investments of time you can make. We linked to our article on this above, but you can also find hundreds of great YouTube videos explaining them if you prefer video

Attend workshops or classes

Online tutorials are okay, but workshops and classes provide you with real-life 3D printing skills and hidden industry gems. 

Whether you want to learn deeply about 3D printers, monetize your 3D printing hobby, or become an expert at printing certain things, getting a structured 3D printing education is the way to go. 

These 3D printing courses are a great way to get the certification needed to prove your professional expertise in 3D printing circles. 

Join a 3D printing community

As 3D printing grows in popularity, so does its community. Feel free to join the thousands of 3D printing professionals, hobbyists, and newbies on online platforms like Quora, Reddit, and Facebook. 

These communities are usually responsive and supportive when you’re dealing with a printing issue because they’ve probably experienced it too. 

As you browse through other people’s contributions on these sites, you’ll find a ton of useful information that you can sometimes add to your own 3D printing playbook. 

Experiment and practice

The best way to become skilled in 3D printing is to practice, practice, practice. With time, things will come naturally, and you’ll be able to print almost anything on command. 

There’s also a weird level of creativity that comes with experimenting with your 3D printer, so don’t shy away from trying eccentric designs and settings. 

What are the Easiest 3D Printers to Use?

If you’re new to 3D printing, you need to start with a printer that’s simple but effective. A printer that doesn’t fuss about settings and does things automatically. 

These are some of the 3D printers that are naturally easy to use: 

Anycubic Kobra

• Price: Check latest price at Anycubic here / Amazon here

The Anycubic Kobra is one of the most high-performing budget 3D printers you can find. Great print quality, sizeable build volume, affordable price tag, and straightforward to use.

The printer has a 4.3-inch touchscreen with a multi-language user interface. It has other cool features such as automatic bed leveling, and a detachable build plate. It can also print with almost every thermoplastic filament on the market.

On the downside, the Anycubic Kobra gets a little too loud with its fans. 

Anycubic Kobra 3D Printer

Anycubic here

Amazon here

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Voxelab Aquila

• Price: Check latest price at Amazon here

This 3D printer is arguably one of the most affordable entry-level printers ever made. It’s so easy to operate, and still has decent print quality, especially with PLA. 

Although the Voxelab Aquila beats most budget printers in price wars, it strictly uses one 3D slicer, VoxelMaker. Although the software is easy to use and does everything a new user would want, it’s not quite the same as Cura.

Also, the printer can’t withstand very hot temperatures, meaning you can’t work with some types of filaments. But if you’re still learning 3D printing, stick with PLA anyway.

Voxelab Aquila

$179.00

Amazon here

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05/25/2023 06:38 am GMT

Prusa i3 MK3S+

• Price: Check latest price at Prusa here / Amazon here

Prusa has stood the test of time and continues to make cutting-edge 3D printers. A sturdy, reliable printer, the Prusa i3 MK3S+ won’t limit you on which filament to use. 

It has ample build volume, a filament sensor to warn you when you’re running out of filament, and a power loss feature that lets you resume printing in case of a power outage. Prusa also has one of the largest online 3D printing communities, so you’ll have support in case of any problems you encounter with your printer.

But here’s the catch — the Prusa i3 MK3S+ is five times more expensive than the other two printers. 

Original Prusa i3 MK3S+ kit

The best 3D printer kit of all time. If you have $1,000, this is some of the best value you can get.

Prusa here

Amazon here

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