From pre-made choices to DIY options you can build for basically free, the best Ender 3 enclosures offer something for everyone

The choice I’d recommend for 80% of folks is the official Creality Ender 3 Enclosure.

It’s easy to assemble, with a good-sized viewing window. It’s particularly good at printing heat-sensitive materials – and is more affordable than you’d expect

If your priority is 360-degree visibility, you should check out the 3D UpFitters Ender 3 Enclosure. it’s a little more complicated to assemble, but it’s a great pick for more detailed projects where you need a clearer view.

We’ll highlight the best among these popular Ender 3 add-ons, and also provide a few top Ender 3 enclosure buying tips to keep in mind.

Buyable Ender 3 Enclosures

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Official Creality Ender 3 Enclosure

• Price: Check price at Creality store / Check here on Amazon
• Assembly: Easy-to-assemble iron pipe/three-way connector frame
• Compatibility: Ender 3, Ender 3 Pro, Ender 3 V2, Ender 3 Max, Ender 3 Neo, Ender 3 V2 Neo, Ender 3 Max Neo, Ender 3 S1, Ender 3 S1 Pro, Ender 3 S1 Plus
• Printer Access: Large front door with zip
• Print Visibility: See-through front screen with zip, velcroed side and top opening

Although Creality opted not to equip the Ender 3 with an enclosure, the company offers its very own official-vetted enclosure for the Ender 3 in all its incarnations.

The enclosure’s biggest strength is that it’s designed specifically for the Ender 3, so no faffing around checking dimensions – the Ender 3 just fits, with room to spare.

It also offers sufficient top space to squeeze in a spool of 1kg filament.

With toolless, easy assembly, the official Creality enclosure consists of a rigid iron pipe frame held together by three-way connectors, on top of which sits a heat-containing cover to prevent drafts.

The inner layer is made of an aluminum film, while a flame-retardant fabric coats the outer layer.

The official Creality Ender 3 enclosure can maintain temperatures far better, ideal for printing with ABS, ASA, PC, and other heat-sensitive materials. Creality says the enclosure helps muffle printing sounds and has also thrown in a handy side-mounted tool pouch.

A zipped window that runs almost the front and top of the enclosure offers easy access to the printer and a good-sized viewing window.

Smaller right side and top openings with velcro covers grant two additional angles to access the printer without removing the entire enclosure.

3D UpFitters Ender 3 Enclosure

• Price: Starting at $200.00
• Assembly: Fairly involved, comes with high-quality, well-guided assembly instructions
• Compatibility: Ender 3, Ender 3 Pro, Ender 3 V2, Ender 3 Max, Ender 3 Neo, Ender 3 V2 Neo, Ender 3 Max Neo, Ender 3 S1, Ender 3 S1 Pro, Ender 3 S1 Plus
• Printer Access: Hinged front door with magnetic latch and left-side door
• Print Visibility: Acrylic see-through panels on all sides

If you’re looking for a sturdier alternative to Creality’s tent-style enclosure above, 3D UpFitters’ Ender 3 kit is a solid option.

The company specializes in 3D printer enclosures and levies that expertise to offer some of the best options on the market.

The enclosure is made of high-quality acrylic panels held together by ABS connector brackets. This means complete visibility of the printing process from all angles and the ability to maintain an internal temperature above 30°C.

A hinged front door with magnetic latches and a side-mounted two-panel swing door means easy access to the printer.

The kit even comes with a custom mount and extender cable to position the Ender 3’s power supply outside the enclosure.

It also features cable routing holes to position the printer’s display outside the enclosure for easy print control. 3D UpFitters’ Ender 3 enclosure starts at around $200.00.

The company offers a range of add-ons, including a carbon air filter, temperature gauge, spool holder, vent system with fan/dryer hose adapter, interior LEDs, etc.

You can shave off a few dollars by opting to print the connectors yourself using ABS, something the company facilitates by providing STL files.

Assembly is reasonably involved and takes some time, but 3D UpFitters’ high-quality instructions are good enough for those usually daunted by DIY assembly to follow.

Innovator 3D Printer Enclosure

• Price: Starting at $165
• Assembly: Fairly complex, Fairly involved, comes with high-quality, well-guided assembly instructions and videos
• Compatibility: Ender 3, Ender 3 Pro, Ender 3 V2, Ender 3 Max, Ender 3 Neo, Ender 3 V2 Neo, Ender 3 Max Neo, Ender 3 S1, Ender 3 S1 Pro, Ender 3 S1 Plus
• Printer Access: Hinged front door
• Print Visibility: See-through acrylic front and side panels

If you’re looking for an enclosure that ships with all the bells and whistles with the price tag to match, then look no further than Innovator 3D Printer Enclosure. 

Designed from the ground up to create a sealed, heat-retaining cocoon for your Ender 3 to thrive in, the Innovator 3D Printer Enclosure is pieced together using large sheets of sturdy metal, see-through acrylic panels, and heavy-duty hardware.

It’s designed to maintain ideal printing temperatures, and also ships with a built-in 2-phase HEPA/activated carbon filtration system to clean air contaminated by fumes and particles (VOCs), partially useful if you’re working with ABS and other filaments that give off more fumes.

The enclosure also has its own internal control panel, and there’s also a smart heater with the ability to set a desired temperature – and even an option to add internal lighting.

It’s a more involved setup than an enclosure tet, though there’s good instructions to make sure it isn’t too taxing for you. On my Ender 3 V2 Neo, I’d say it’s overkill, but if I’m working on my Ender 3 S1 Pro, and want to print tougher filaments, I’d prefer something like this. 

The Innovator 3D Printer Enclosure comes in two sizes, with the larger option big enough to house even the largest Ender 3 models like the Ender 3 Max and Ender 3 Max Neo.

Wham Bam HotBox V2 Enclosure

• Price: Starting at $120.00
• Assembly: Pre-assembled, effortless two-minute set-up
• Compatibility: Ender 3, Ender 3 Pro, Ender 3 V2, Ender 3 V2 Neo, Ender 3 Neo
• Printer Access: Large zipped front/top door
• Print Visibility: See-through front panel

Wham Bam’s HotBox V2 enclosure is a solid option if you want to transform the Ender 3 into an ABS-ready printer with as little hassle as possible.

It comes fully assembled with a setup involving no more than two zippers.

The HotBox V2 is made up of a semi-rigid, lightweight polymer honeycomb insulating structure with a high-grade Nylon 600D outer layer and metallic heat-containing internal lining.

These materials keep out drafts and maintain a steady internal temperature.

A large front-facing velcro panel allows you to view and access the printer, while dual side-mounted zippers see the front and cover open up completely for even easier access to the printer.

There are metal-lined filament passages mounted throughout, with plugs to seal them when not in use.

Cable passages and velcro retainers feature on all sides, along with an air vent port, and even an in-built thermometer for monitoring. The top panel features a velcro panel for the Ender 3’s spool holder to sit outside the enclosure.

Other notable features include loops for a pair of LED light bars on the front panel should you fancy the upgrade along with a useful tool pouch on the enclosure’s side.

It folds up flat for easy transportation and storage.

DIY Ender 3 Enclosures

Photography Studio Tent

• Price: Up to $50
• Assembly: None required, pop-up tent
• Compatibility: Ender 3, Ender 3 Pro, Ender 3 V2, Ender 3 Max, Ender 3 Neo, Ender 3 V2 Neo, Ender 3 Max Neo, Ender 3 S1, Ender 3 S1 Pro
• Printer Access: Zipper door or flap
• Print Visibility: Poor, tent is designed to reflect light so isn’t see-through

A repurposed photography studio tent offers a solid enclosure option, but one that is easy to set up and won’t break the bank. 

Tents are widely available in a range of sizes to fit all Ender 3 models – just make sure you measure up before buying. If you can’t find one with enough height, consider mounting the spool outside of the tent

The tents are typically made of flame-retardant plastic sheets (to cater for photography lights placed inside) that do a reasonably good job of containing heat, offering the Ender 3 a cozy environment to print filaments like ABS. It’s not the most insulative, but for those on a budget, it’s more than sufficient for most print projects.

The major downside of a tent is that the plastic sheets are designed to reflect heat and have a murky white finish. As a consequence, photography tents offer no visibility of the printer, but do come with a zipper door or flap that makes accessing it easier. 

The material is also easy to make holes in to feed in cables or filament, giving you more flexibility. And, putting it together takes no effort at all – they ship preassembled, and all you need to do is place the Ender 3 inside.

Exercise and Kids Mats

• Price: $20.00-$30.00
• Assembly: Very easy, interlocking puzzle teeth
• Compatibility: Ender 3, Ender 3 Pro, Ender 3 V2, Ender 3 V2 Neo, Ender 3 Neo
• Printer Access: Easily remove one of the mats to access the printer
• Print Visibility: Poor

Although not the first thing that comes to mind, foam exercise and kid’s play mats constitute a viable DIY option for an Ender 3 enclosure.

In particular, mats that have interlocking puzzle teeth on the sides can be combined easily and quickly to create a cube large enough to house an Ender 3.

No need for tools or screws – simply push them together.

While their material (usually ethylene vinyl acetate) may not be known for its insulative properties, and the imprecise, toothy cuts may be prone to letting through small drafts, these mats prove surprisingly competent at maintaining a steady temperature.

Due to manufacturers having to stick to rigid standards, they are generally non-flammable.

They are also comparatively cheap when stacked up against pre-made enclosures. Expect to pay as little as $20.00 to $30.00 for the six panels required for a six-sided cube enclosure.

There are, of course, downsides.

Unless you carve out an opening and install an acrylic panel, there’s no way to monitor a print without removing one of the mats. Depending on the mat’s thickness, fitting in an opening for the filament spool might be troublesome, too.

IKEA LACK Table

• Price: $13.00 IKEA LACK table, $60.00 panel kit, cost of filament to 3D print brackets
• Assembly: Complex
• Compatibility: Ender 3, Ender 3 Pro, Ender 3 V2, Ender 3 V2 Neo, Ender 3 Neo
• Printer Access: Hinged front door
• Print Visibility: Excellent, see-through front, back, and side panels

A favorite among seasoned makers, the IKEA LACK table enclosure is a classic DIY option.

Though not initially conceived for the Ender 3, it works a treat to transform any small-ish open-design printer into a machine capable of handling even the most temperamental filament types.

The basic idea is to take a cheap, sturdy, and readily available IKEA LACK side table, then mount acrylic panels on the front, back, and sides with 3D printed brackets to create a toasty thermal environment for ABS, Nylon, PC, and more to thrive.

You won’t need custom-cut acrylic panels as you can buy kits from Amazon and the like.

These include cut-to-size acrylic panels with cabling holes, magnets, and hardware. STL files for the 3D printed parts are also available on sites like Thingiverse.

Visibility is unsurprisingly excellent, with views of the printer from the front, back, and sides.

Kits also generally include a hinged door or a removable front panel for printer access.

You can even stack multiple LACK tables to create storage space or fashion and attach all manner of creative add-ons like lights, a thermometer, or an external spool holder to the side table’s wooden frame.

Whatever way you look at it, this is a DIY project, so assembly is very much hands-on with a good dose of problem-solving if you don’t go down the kit route – one for the experienced DIYers or motivated beginners out there.

Wood Enclosure

• Price: $100.00-$200.00 depending on the cost of wood
• Assembly: Medium-hard difficulty
• Compatibility: Ender 3, Ender 3 Pro, Ender 3 V2, Ender 3 Max, Ender 3 Neo, Ender 3 V2 Neo, Ender 3 Max Neo, Ender 3 S1, Ender 3 S1 Pro, Ender 3 S1 Plus
• Printer Access: Optional hinged front door or removable panel
• Print Visibility: Potentially excellent if using four acrylic panels

Similar to the IKEA LACK build, a wooden enclosure is a viable alternative to a pre-made option, especially if you’re good with your hands and have some woodworking experience.

Generally, those who’ve gone down this route build a wood frame and then attach wood panels and one acrylic panel on the front for visibility to create an enclosed space for the Ender 3.

Assembly can vary in complexity depending on your plans.

Wood is one of the more workable materials, but you need the right tools – a circular saw, drill, etc. The lack of precise guides means you’ll need to measure the correct dimensions yourself.

The whole project could cost next to nothing if you can gather up any spare wood lying around and 3D print the brackets for the acrylic panels.

Otherwise, expect to pay anywhere from $100.00 to $200.00, depending on the cost of wood in your area.

Plastic Sheets and PVC Frame

• Price: $20-$40
• Assembly: Medium complexity
• Compatibility: Ender 3, Ender 3 Pro, Ender 3 V2, Ender 3 Max, Ender 3 Neo, Ender 3 V2 Neo, Ender 3 Max Neo, Ender 3 S1, Ender 3 S1 Pro, Ender 3 S1 Plus
• Printer Access: Door cut into sheet with velcro holds or removable sheet
• Print Visibility: Poor, unless you use see-through material

It’s possible to piece together an inexpensive, rudimentary Ender 3 enclosure with no more than a sheet of plastic, a basic frame made of PVC, for example, and strong adhesive like duct tape.

The process is pretty intuitive.

It involves assembling a frame, draping the sheet over and holding it down with tape. The printer then sits underneath, benefiting from the right controlled thermal environment to handle heat-sensitive filament.

In terms of equipment, we recommend any non-flammable and heat-resistant plastic sheet; the thicker, the better, as extra width generally pumps up the insulative properties.

Depending on your visibility preference, you may also want to go for see-through sheets.

As for the frame, a popular option is PVC, as it can be combined without tools, relying instead on friction to hold it together. This makes it easier to build and disassemble for transportation or storage.

Another popular alternative is to 3D print the frame yourself, further reducing costs.

Assembly shouldn’t be too taxing but could vary depending on the frame material you go for.

For printer access, you can either remove a section of the sheet as needed or cut out a door and attach velcro dots to the frame to keep it closed during printing.

Advantages of an Enclosure for Your Ender 3

Temperature Control

An enclosure creates a stable thermal environment.

Without an enclosure, the Ender 3 is subject to ambient temperature fluctuation caused by natural shifts and factors like drafts.

An enclosure allows for a consistent environment, essential if you need consistent and reliable results when reproducing the same model and part.

Fumes, Odors, Noise Reduction

An Ender 3 enclosure contains the fumes created when melting certain filament types.

These fumes can have hazardous consequences when breathed in. Similarly, many heat-sensitive filament types produce unpleasant odors, which an enclosure can help reduce, which is useful if you can’t set up the printer in a well-ventilated area.

A further benefit is noise reduction. An enclosure can help muffle stepper motor and fan noise.

Safety

An enclosure offers a protective cocoon around the Ender 3 to shield it from accidental knocks and bumps, and also protect users, children, and others from injuring themselves on the hot nozzle or heated bed.

Storage

An enclosure protects a printer from dust and debris when not in use, extending its lifespan and minimizing the need for regular cleaning.

Buyer’s Guide – Things to Consider When Choosing an Enclosure For Your Creality Ender 3

The Differences in Enclosing Each Ender 3 Printer

While they’re all based on the same core frame, components, and design, some Ender 3s have a different-sized footprint. So, it’s super important to buy an enclosure large enough to house your specific Ender 3 model.

The Ender 3 V2, Ender 3 Pro, and Ender 3 Neo are the same as the original Ender 3, but some are larger, like the Ender 3 Max, Ender 3 S1 Plus and S1 Pro, Ender 3 Max and Max Neo.

Here are their dimensions for easy reference:

Material Choice and Potential Issues

Pay close attention to the properties of the material used to make an enclosure.

Non-flammable and heat-resistant materials are a must-have as they drastically reduce the potential for fires. You’ll also want to consider their insulative properties, favoring those that naturally trap heat, such as acrylic.

For parts like brackets that you can 3D print yourself, we suggest avoiding PLA due to its low melting point in favor of ABS, which can withstand the higher temperatures created by an enclosure.

Exhaust Stem

Although not essential, you may want to consider an enclosure, whether DIY or pre-made, fitted with a vent/exhaust and air filtration system.

These can help filter out toxic fumes and funnel hot air away from the Ender 3’s more sensitive components, such as the power supply and other electronic parts.

Effects of Temperature of the Ender 3’s Hardware

Although trapping in heat does wonders for 3D printing ABS and other filaments, it can wreak havoc on the Ender 3’s components.

In particular, too much heat can affect the lifespan and performance of electronic parts such as the power supply, display, and mainboard.

We recommend enclosures that offer well-placed vents to move air away from these components like on the 3D UpFitters enclosure or allow you to house them outside the enclosure or away from the heat sources (nozzle and bed).

Assembly and Storage

Consider how easy an enclosure is to assemble and disassemble, especially if you don’t plan on having a permanent setup.

For example, an IKEA LACK Table enclosure is more or less impossible to disassemble quickly. On the other hand, a tent-style option like the HotBox V2 folds away for storage in seconds.

FAQs

If you enjoyed this article, check out our other Ender 3 upgrade guides to learn more:

• Ender 3 Laser Engraver & Cutter Upgrades Reviewed for V2/Pro Models
• Dual Extruder Upgrades for Creality Ender 3: Pro, V2, and S1
• Top Ender 3 Direct Drive Upgrades for 2023: V2 and Pro
• Best Ender 3 Extension Kit Upgrades
• The Best Auto Bed Leveling Upgrades for Ender 3
• Comprehensive Guide to Every Type of Ender 3 Fan Upgrades
• Best Hot End Upgrades for Ender 3 Pro/V2

I’ve been there – wispy plastic residue ruining otherwise perfectly good prints.

In short, it all comes down to dialing in the best Ender 3 retraction settings.

This guide will cover everything I’ve learned about this all too common phenomenon – how to set the perfect Ender 3 retraction settings, along with a few housekeeping tricks I use to prevent stringing.

You’re likely here for specific slicer settings, so I’ll provide those, too. Let’s jump in – here’s how to reduce stringing with the best Ender 3 Retraction Settings.

What Causes Stringing?

First, what causes stringing? 

Stringing is the name given to the wispy, cobweb-like strands of filament that trail behind the nozzle when it shifts from one part of a print to another.

It also pops up in gaps (or open air) between two separate vertical parts of a print or any area where no active printing (or deposition) happens.

It’s a byproduct of the ever-present, natural pressure in the filament path continuously pushing plastic through the hot end.

In other words, although the extruder’s gears are no longer actively feeding filament, tiny traces of melted plastic leak out of the nozzle.

Stringing happens when the flow of molten plastic isn’t controlled by the usual deposition of plastic onto a pre-existing layer.

As stringing is linked to the behavior of melted plastic, filaments that print at higher temperatures are more susceptible.

Filaments like PETG are well-known for stringing for this reason, but the most popular Ender 3 filaments, PLA and ABS, are by no means immune to the problem.

Best Retraction Settings For The Ender 3, Ender 3 Pro, and Ender 3 V2

Now that we understand what each Ender 3 retraction setting does, here’s my optimal retraction settings:

• Retraction Distance: 5 mm
• Retraction Speed: 25 mm/s to 50 mm/s
• Retraction Extra Prime Amount: 0 mm/s
• Retraction Minimum Travel: 1.5 mm
• Maximum Retraction Count: 10
• Minimum Extrusion Distance Window: 10 mm
• Limit Support Retractions: Toggled On
• Combing Mode: Within Infill

These work not just on the classic Ender 3 but also as solid Ender 3 V2 and Ender 3 Pro retraction settings — though you can still tweak these based on the results you want.

With these dialed in, it’s crucial to perform an Ender 3 retraction test, such as this one, and adjust the Ender 3 retraction settings as needed. 

You’ll also find a selection of calibration shapes for testing in the Cura marketplace. This video offers a guide on how to get the best out of these types of tests.

Ender 3 V2 Neo Retraction Settings

Though the Ender 3 V2 Neo is based on the V2, it benefits from slightly tweaked retraction settings to remove stringing on the Ender 3, Ender 3 Pro, and Ender 3 V2.

• Retraction Distance: 6.5 mm
• Retraction Speed: 45 mm/s

As always, your results with these settings may vary depending on filament type and print speed, but they’re a solid starting point.

I don’t recommend lowering the retraction settings below 5 mm as this makes stringing worse in my experience. You can also read my full test of the Ender 3 V2 Neo.

Ender 3 S1 Retraction Settings

As the Ender 3 S1 features a direct drive extruder, the filament path is much shorter, meaning you can get away with a shorter retraction distance.

• Retraction Distance: 0.8 mm
• Retraction Speed: 35 to 45 mm/s

These are also Ender 3 direct drive settings applicable to any Bowden Ender 3s you’ve upgraded to a direct drive extruder.

Ender 3 S1 Pro Retraction Settings

As the Ender 3 S1 Pro is essentially a bulkier version of the Ender 3 S1, the retraction differences don’t differ much between them.

However, the Ender 3 S1 Pro tends to combat stringing more effectively with a slightly higher retraction speed.

• Retraction Distance: 0.8 mm
• Retraction Speed: 50 mm/s

You may want to slightly drop the retraction speed – to somewhere around 0.6 mm – if this doesn’t produce any substantial stringing, but I don’t recommend reducing the speed below 50 mm/s. You can read more in my full test and review of the Ender 3 S1 Pro.

At lower speeds, stringing intensifies and becomes more annoying to deal with. Some other users online have also found success with speeds up to 60 mm/s, so don’t hesitate to raise it a few millimeters if you’re still seeing stringing.

Another useful tip that affects stringing, but only applies to PLA, is to lower the nozzle temperature to around 195°C – rather than the 200-210°C typically recommended by filament manufacturers. This very slightly reduces how fast the filament melts, but enough to substantially reduce stringing, especially when paired with my recommended retraction settings.

How the Right Ender 3 Retraction Settings Stop Stringing

Retraction Settings

Fortunately, there are several ways to reduce or eliminate stringing, the most effective of which is tuning the retraction settings for the Ender 3 in your slicing software.

Retraction is a mechanism built into the extruder that retracts the filament by a short distance.

Ender 3, Ender 3 Pro, and Ender 3 V2 retraction settings determine when and by how much to pull back the plastic into the nozzle when traveling between points or over a gap. Doing so relieves the built-up pressure in the nozzle and prevents the oozing that leads to stringing.

If you’ve ever glanced at slicer retraction slicing, you’ll know there are quite a few tweakable options. We’ll cover what each one does below. 

For clarity and to serve as many readers as possible, we’ll focus on Ender 3 Cura retraction settings, given it’s the most popular 3D printing slicer. Note that other slicers feature variations on the names of these settings, but they serve the same function.

Enable Retraction

This setting tells the printer to use its retraction mechanism. Though this setting is typically ticked on by default, it’s worth double-checking. All the settings below are redundant without retraction enabled.

Retraction Distance

Retraction distance determines the length of filament pulled back by the extruder for each retraction move (specifically, how much the filament travels within the hot end), but also how much filament is extruded back through the hot end after the retraction move. 

Retraction distance is arguably the most important setting along with speed. It’s a crucial factor in reducing instances of Ender 3 stringing.

As with most aspects of 3D printing, there’s a balance to strike when it comes to tuning retraction settings for the Ender 3.

A short retraction distance won’t be enough to prevent stringing, but you run the risk of filament not reaching the nozzle when needed if you dial in a distance that’s too large. Additionally, retracting too far can cause molten plastic to solidify and clog the hot end.

Retracting the filament too far can also cause what’s known as filament grinding, an issue caused when the extruder gears gnaw away at the filament as it makes repeated passes over the same area. 

Degraded filament has a tougher time making its way through the hot end to the nozzle, which can ruin prints. Parts requiring lots of retraction moves in quick succession are especially prone to filament grinding.

Bowden systems, such as those found on the Ender 3, Ender Pro, and Ender 3 V2, typically need a longer retraction distance due to the larger gap between the extruder and print head assembly. 

For the Ender 3 S1 and Ender 3 S1 Pro, you can get away with a lower distance because these printers have direct drive extruders, so there’s a shorter filament path.

Retraction Speed

Retraction speed signals how fast the extruder drive gear pulls filament back for every retraction move.

It’s directly related to retraction distance: how fast the defined length of filament travels when retracted. Higher speeds reduce stringing because the filament is whipped up into the nozzle before stringing can occur.

Much like retraction distance, it’s not a case of simply cranking up the retraction speed to solve all your stringing woes.

There’s a balance between reducing stringing with a nippy retraction and setting it so high that it affects the consistency and quality of subsequent printed layers.

Filament grinding is a concern at higher retraction speeds, so tread carefully here to avoid degrading your filament. Another common issue sees the solid filament located higher up in the hot end separate from the molten portion lower down, which can lead to clogs and jams.

Retraction Extra Prime Amount

Following a retraction move, the retraction extra prime amount settings determine how much additional filament is primed to compensate for potential oozing during a travel move. It helps top up the nozzle with the filament when the printer returns to printing.

In most cases, the retraction extra prime amount is best left at its default settings of 0 as it tends to leave blemishes and blobs on your prints when the retraction speed and distance are set correctly.

Retraction Minimum Travel

Retraction minimum travel sets a minimum distance of travel threshold beyond which retraction is triggered, and the filament is then pulled away from the nozzle.

The idea here is to limit the number of unwanted retractions in quick succession over a small area. Set too low, and when combined with aggressive retraction speed/distance settings, it can exacerbate grinding and damage your filament.

Maximum Retraction Count

Maximum Retraction Count sets a maximum cap on the number of retraction moves within a set length of filament defined by the minimum extrusion distance window (more on that just below).

The setting is designed to protect the filament from repeated gear pressure on the same portion of filament, which can lead to grinding problems.

Minimum Extrusion Distance Window

Minimum Extrusion Distance Window determines the length of filament the maximum retraction count setting applies to.

Again, the core function of this setting is to avoid damaging your filament through repeated and unnecessary extruder pushing and pulling.

Limit Support Retractions

Here you can toggle whether the retraction mechanism and all the other retraction settings apply when traveling between or within support structures.

Turning it on can cause stringing between support portions of a print but can drastically reduce the overall print time. As you’ll remove stringy supports once a print finishes, the overall quality of your part isn’t affected.

Combing Mode

This setting gives you several options to signal how the printer should behave when traveling from one portion of a print to another.

Generally, this keeps the nozzle within previously printed areas. The aim is to keep retraction moves to a minimum and shorten print times. The setting ensures any stringing occurs within the limits of your print and not on the outer surface or walls at a nominal cost to travel times.

You’ll find four combing mode options:

• Off – The printer will retract for every travel move and do so in a straight line to the next point.
• All – The printer will ensure all travel moves occur within already printed areas.
• No in Skin – The printer avoids skin/surface areas when traveling.
• Within Infill – The printer keeps the nozzle within infills when traveling.

Other Slicer Settings That Can Help Prevent Stringing

Print Temperature

To understand the way hot end temperature can lead to stringing, think of what happens when you feed filament into the extruder before a print.

The printer bumps the temperature way up, which causes the filament to flow uncontrollably out of the nozzle, creating a mound of plastic spaghetti on your print bed.

This is the pressure built up in the filament path (caused by the extruder gears pushing and the hot end liquifying the plastic) releasing through the only available opening, the nozzle.

It’s vital to have the correct hot end temperature for your filament type as recommended by the manufacturer to keep this pressure in check.

Set too high, this leads to over-extrusion manifested as stringing during travel moves and blemishes when printing, or retraction moves stretching rather than pulling the filament, negating the benefit of retraction.

By dialing down the temperature, you are effectively limiting the flow of filament and, by extension, oozing.

Here are the general ranges for each filament compatible with the Ender 3.

• PLA – 190°C to 230°C
• ABS – 210°C to 250°C
• TPU – 210°C to 230°C
• PETG – 220°C to 250°C

We recommend lowering the temperature in small increments. Doing so along with dialed Ender 3 retraction should help prevent stringing issues.

Travel Speed

Though not as impactful as retraction and temperature settings, travel speed can help prevent stringing.

By increasing the travel speed, you’re ensuring the nozzle shifts from printed area to printed area faster, limiting the window for oozing.

As always, balance is essential.

Pushing the travel speed too high can open the door to a host of other problems linked to print quality and under extrusion. Start with 150 mm/s and adjust upwards as needed, but avoid exceeding 200 mm/s.

Other Ways To Stop Stringing

Buy Quality Filament

However tempting it may be to save money by buying cheap filament, we recommend spending a little more on a proven, quality brand.

Poor quality additives and a shoddy manufacturing process can exacerbate stringing. Be sure to consult our guide to the best Ender 3 filament for our top recommended brands.

Proper Filament Storage

Good quality filament is one thing, but you must also store it correctly to keep it moisture-free. When water seeps into the filament, it can accentuate the oozing that leads to stringing.

As the moisture heats up, it releases extra pressure, which, when combined with the pressure caused by the extruder gear and hot end temperature, can push unwanted filament through the nozzle during travel moves. 

Check out our guide to storing filament the right way for more information.

Replace The PTFE tubing

If you’ve dialed in the proper settings, bought quality filament, and kept it dry, but stringing persists, then the problem is likely linked to the PTFE tubing degrading.

Through repeated exposure to high temperatures at the point where it meets the hot end, the PTFE tubing’s lubrication degrades over time, which can affect the efficiency of retraction.

Replacing or cutting back the Bowden tubing is one of the easiest Ender 3 upgrades. Check out our guide to best Ender 3 upgrades for more information.

Alternatively, you can eliminate the problem by upgrading your Ender 3 to a direct drive extruder setup, which doesn’t have Bowden tubing. Check the link just above for more details.

Maintain and Clean The Nozzle

Residual build-up on the nozzle is a natural part of 3D printing, especially if you’re a heavy user.

If left unchecked, this build-up can lead to stringing because it affects extrusion and can stick to fresh filament flowing from the nozzle.

Regularly wiping the nozzle with a wire brush or removing the part entirely for a thorough clean should eliminate the problem.

FAQs

If you enjoyed this article, check our other guides to learn more:

• Ender 3 Print Speed Preferences (Max for V2 & S1)
• 4 Methods to Fix PETG Stringing (Fixes 90% of Issues)
• Pillowing, Stringing, and Layer Splitting – Three of the Worst 3D Printer Issues Solved

Getting a 3D printer is exciting, especially if it’s your first one. But before you plug it in and get going (but after you’ve built it if you’ve bought a 3D printer kit ?), there are a few things to consider when it comes to 3D printer stands and tables.

Bigger 3D printers require more space to fit them, while different types of 3D printers or projects will require different things like filaments, paints, or tools that should be kept handy. 3D printers are often at least 10kg, with most desktop 3D printers sitting at between the 13-15kg mark. For more professional 3D printers, expect them to be even heavier!

When deciding on your desk for your 3D printer, you’ll need to keep a few things in mind. Most 3D printers will need to be in well-ventilated areas for maximum safety, sometimes a 3D printer enclosure can work if you take any potential fumes into account.

There’s also the matter of easy access to peripherals. If you’re using an FDM printer, you’ll probably want easy access to your filaments, so your 3D printer table should include holders or at least enough space for a filament storage box.

While a standard workbench or desk will normally do, you’re going to want a 3D printer table surface catered to you and your printer to maximize both safety and efficiency. So here we’re going to look at some of the best, coolest, and most practical tables and stands for your needs.

Where are the best tables for 3D printers?

If you don’t already have a usable surface, or if you just want to make sure you’re getting the best, you can buy plenty of workbenches, stands, and tables ideal for 3D printers that come with a variety of applications.

From vibration-free fixtures to specifically shaped drawers, finding the 3D printer stand that’s right for you is just a matter of knowing what you need.

It’s worth noting that I do not recommend wheeled 3D printer tables. There are a lot of people who recommend them, but I’m personally paranoid about weak brakes, so I avoid them for hot, electric things like 3D printers. They can also be less stable, and you don’t want anything making your 3D printing environment less sturdy that could have even a minuscule effect on your print’s surface finish.

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Olympia Hardwood Workbench

• Price: Check on Amazon here

Not just one of the strongest affordable benches out there, the Olympia hardwood workbench is also one of the best-looking.

If you like to show off your workstation, then this hardwood desk is definitely something to add to your cart. As well as being very nice to look at, the Olympia works very well as a 3D printer table.

Sturdy enough to hold several times what the average 3D printer weighs, and with enough desktop space to keep any peripheral tools or resins within a safe distance, the Olympia is an ideal 3D printer stand.

Hardwood is also famously easy to clean, so it’s easy to keep dust-free. And for under $200, it’s definitely worth adding to your wish list at least.

Heavy Duty Foldable Workbench

• Price: Check on Amazon here

While the foldable nature of this heavy-duty 3D printer workbench isn’t useful for the not-so-portable machines that are 3D printers — it’s the sturdiness that really counts here.

With a pedal lock on the bottom of the legs, this workbench is a great 3D printer table as it’s more vibration-resistant and stable than many others.

In addition, it comes with a pegboard for handy access to scrapers and other tools without risking leaving them around and cluttering up your space or, worse, getting lost.

Home Office Computer Desk — Also works as a 3D printer table

• Price: Check on Amazon here

Sometimes simplicity is key. Bells and whistles can make for confusing spaces, and while drawers and pegboards do come in handy, sometimes you just want a strong surface to use as a 3D printer stand.

Despite being designed for computers, this home office desk is an easy-to-assemble steel frame that’s deep enough to comfortably fit most 3D printers and still leave enough space for extra tools, gloves, and other pieces.

The extra space can also be used for the desk’s original purpose; a computer to plug directly into your printer.

The lack of drawers does limit storage somewhat, but the wide space below is perfect for storing boxes of filament.

If built-in storage is a must for your 3D printer table, however, there’s also this computer desk with shelves on which you can keep resins and tools. Available in a variety of sizes, you can choose which version of this table suits your 3D printer and/or your available space.

IKEA Lack Tables — They make great 3D printer stands

I wasn’t kidding earlier. 3D printers and IKEA lack tables do actually go together really well.

If like me, you don’t have a lot of space to spare, IKEA Lack tables are sturdy and strong 3D printer tables for smaller models.

Not only are they stylish, but they’re also fairly cheap and don’t take up much space. They can make your 3D printer something of a centerpiece, or be put into the corner so nothing gets in the way.

The empty underside means you can store things safely under them too, and the variety of available colors means you can even pick one out that goes well with your printer.

What Do I Need from a 3D Printer Stand?

Many people will tell you that a table’s a table, and yes, that is true. Provided you don’t go too cheap, an IKEA table for a 3D printer isn’t a completely out-there idea.

While standard benches or desks may work well enough as 3D printer tables, there are some things you’ll want to look out for to maximize both safety and efficiency.

Space and Cleanliness

3D printers do require some space around them free of both dust and loose debris. Wood surfaces are perfect as they’re easy to keep clean and won’t get too hot during those long-haul projects.

When working with materials like resin, it may be tempting to keep your 3D printer stand covered at least partially in towel or cloth, but this will increase the risk of fires should anything go wrong. Let’s face it, any workstation is going to get stained eventually.

Even if you have a 3D printer with an enclosure, the space around it still needs to be clean to ensure proper ventilation and cleaner air around your workspace. Dust gets kicked up easily as it is without a working machine in the mix.

Stability

You wouldn’t put a baby in a wobbly high chair, and you wouldn’t ride a roller coaster with a broken safety bar. So definitely don’t put your 3D printer on an unstable surface.

Any table or stand for a 3D printer needs to be stable and capable of handling the printer’s weight.

Not only will this protect your likely expensive equipment from hitting the floor from 3ft up, but a sturdy 3D printer table will also mean that things won’t go crashing down mid-print. A working machine carries plenty of risks as it is, the last thing you want is a stand that might collapse while printing, which is an extreme fire hazard.

As well as sturdiness, shock absorption is also important to lengthen the shelf-life (pun intended ?) of your workspace. While there are vibration-free tables out there, simply tightening the screws and level-checking from time to time should be enough.

A simple shake test to check for wobble is usually fine, but also make sure your table can take the weight of your 3D printer. Some are heavier than others, and not all stands are created equal, so just make sure you’ve got a strong surface that doesn’t buckle under your printer’s weight and you should be good to go!

Practicality

A clean and sturdy surface will make for a safe 3D printer table, but there’s nothing wrong with some extra additions to make your work more efficient.

If your 3D printer needs to be connected directly to your computer, installing hooks under the table to hold the wires will both clean up your work space and reduce the risk of tripping.

Filament and material storage is also good. If you have your 3D printer in a cool and dry place – like a garage – then it’s handy to have a 3D printer stand or desk with enough space to store your filaments makes for a more efficient workspace.

Provided you have enough space, desktop storage for resin, gloves, scrapers, and any other tools will make the whole printing to post-processing much smoother by keeping all necessary components in easy reach. Digging through a toolbox or disorganized drawers (which many of us are guilty of having) is never a fun job, and built-in slots or holders for your tools is a great way to cut out all the rifling.

For other tools that can come in handy, read our guide to 3D printer accessories

That’s why I’ve decided to share the best Ender 5 Pro upgrades I’ve found from my 2 – 3 years using the printer.

I’d recommend most casual users add a new build plate for their first upgrade. The Creality flexible PEI build plate has made my prints more consistent, with better first-layer adhesion and scraper-free removal.

Makers who want to print with more materials should prioritize E3D’s V6 hot-end upgrade, which will let you print at the temperatures that PETG, PC, and nylon demand.

Those are my top two picks – but there are a ton of Ender 5 Pro upgrades that will improve the quality of your prints, as well as convenience add-ons to make your time with the printer more enjoyable.

This guide will share my recommendations for the upgrades I’ve personally found most useful – both paid and (more or less) free, 3D printed modifications.

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Paid Ender 5 Pro Upgrades

Ender 5 Pro Build Plate Upgrades

• Compatibility: Ender 5, Ender 5 Pro, Ender 5 Plus
• Price: $20-$25

Swapping out the stock Pro build plate is one of the most cost-effective Ender 5 Pro upgrades you can make.

Doing so improves first-layer adhesion – the first step to a successful print – opening the door to better performance with more demanding filament types. A better build plate also makes print removal a lot easier.

While there are numerous third-party options, Creality has done well to offer a good selection of in-house developed Ender 5 Pro build plate upgrades.

PEI-Coated Build Plate

The Creality flexible PEI build plate is a popular option that will set you back a reasonable $25.

The PEI surface has excellent adhesive properties and better first-layer adhesion compared to the stock plate, so there’s no need to rely on additional glue, tape, and the like.

The plate’s spring steel base attaches to the Ender 5 Pro’s magnetic bed, removing the need for clips, making it one of the easiest Ender 5 Pro upgrades to install.

Creality’s plate can handle temperatures up to 200°C and boasts well-distributed temperature stability. The build plate’s flexible properties allow scraper-less print removal; simply bend the plate, and prints pop off.

It’s a solid pick for PLA, ABS, PETG, and TPU printing.

Tempered Glass Build Plate

Creality’s Tempered Glass Build Plate is another popular option.

It’s made of tempered, strengthened glass with carbon and silicone thrown in for good measure, allowing it to handle temperatures up to 400°C.

The glass bed is compatible with virtually every filament type out there, with notably good PLA performance. Still, a bit of adhesive help, like tape or glue, for more challenging materials like ABS is often needed. 

The smooth finish makes it a top pick for makers who prefer a clean underside for their prints and don’t mind drafting in a handful of clips to keep the build plate in place. Expect to pay under $20 for Creality’s Tempered Glass Build Plate.

Ender 5 Pro Enclosure Upgrades

• Compatibility: Ender 5, Ender 5 Pro, Ender 5 Plus
• Price: $80-$90

If you plan on printing ABS or other materials sensitive to ambient temperature fluctuations, an enclosure is a must-have upgrade.

Without one more challenging filament types are likely to warp due to the open-air design of the Ender 5 Pro.

While you can piece together your own DIY solution and potentially cut costs, Creality conveniently offers its own manufactured solution designed to fit the Ender 5, Ender 5 Pro, and Ender 5 Plus.

Easily assembled and storable, the Creality enclosure consists of a flame-retardant, aluminum-lined tent that sits atop an iron pipe support frame.

It features a see-through window for print monitoring and a large zipped front door to access the printer.

The enclosure is designed to maintain a stable internal temperature and protect against drafts.

Additional benefits include protecting your Ender 5 Pro from airborne debris like dust. It’s the best Ender 5 enclosure I’ve found, and also provides a good level of noise dampening (helpful if you’re running overnight print at home).

Ender 5 Pro Auto-Bed Leveling Upgrades

• Compatibility: Ender 5 Pro
• Price: $40-$50

Although bed leveling is an unavoidable and necessary part of 3D printing, you can remove much of the difficulty and tedium by upgrading to automatic bed leveling.

Antclabs’ BL Touch sensor is a popular option, but Creality also has its own, cheaper CR Touch equivalent.

Both are compatible with the Ender 5 Pro.

Although the setup isn’t as straightforward as installing other Ender 5 Pro upgrades, the process is suitable for even those with little DIY 3D printer modification experience.

The BL Touch and CR Touch come in kits consisting of the required mounting brackets, cabling, and screws.

Ender 5 Pro Extruder Upgrades

• Compatibility: Ender 5, Ender 5 Pro, Ender 5 Plus
• Price: $50-$60

If you plan on printing with flexible filament like TPU, we highly recommend an Ender 5 Pro extruder upgrade.

An extruder with a shortened and tighter filament path ensures flexible filament doesn’t bend or jam, one of the major issues owners encounter with the stock Ender 5 Pro’s Bowden system.

E3D’s Titan extruder is among the most popular options and comes from a company with an established reputation for producing quality parts.

It’s a rugged but compact and lightweight extruder that allows you to use the Ender 5 Pro’s existing Bowden tubing with a simple adapter or shift to a direct drive system.

The latter involves a little more leg work and additional components, but significantly improves the Ender 5 Pro flexible prints.

Ender 5 Pro Hot End Upgrades

• Compatibility: Ender 5, Ender 5 Pro, Ender 5 Plus
• Price: $55-$60

For makers that want to dabble with more exotic filament than standard ABS and PLA, upgrading the Ender 5 Pro with a hot end capable of higher temperature opens the door to materials like PETG, PC, and Nylon.

E3D’s V6 is a solid pick with a loyal horde of adopters who are more than willing to sing its praises.

It features an all-metal design and can reach temperatures up to 300°C.

The precision heat break ensures better control over filament flow while enhancing retraction responsiveness, reducing potential oozing, and fixing stringing problems.

Ender 5 Pro Nozzle Upgrades

• Compatibility: Ender 5, Ender 5 Pro, Ender 5 Plus
• Price: $15-$20

Alongside an extruder upgrade, beefing up the Ender 5 Pro with a brand new nozzle can do wonders when working with abrasive filaments or as a way of extending the gap between nozzle replacements.

E3D’s hardened steel V6 nozzle and Micro Swiss’ A1 hardened steel plated nozzle are both excellent picks, suitable for materials like metal-fill, wood-fill, carbon-fiber fill, NylonX, and other specialist abrasive filament types.

Ender 5 Pro SD Card Extension Upgrades

• Compatibility: Ender 5, Ender 5 Pro, Ender 5 Plus
• Price: $15

More a convenience upgrade than a performance mod, an SD Card extension can tweak the Ender 5 Pro to accept full-sized SD Cards rather than the easily lost and hard to manipulate micro SD Cards. 

Creality has its own extension cable that plugs directly into the Ender 5 Pro SD Card slot with a ribbon leading to a standard SD Card slot.

The cabling can be a little unsightly and break the Ender 5 Pro’s aesthetic, but there are clever owner-made solutions to tuck it away, as we’ll see in the next section.

Free 3D Printed Ender 5 Pro Upgrades

Ender 5 Bed Support

To ward off any unwanted build platform movement or shifting, we recommend installing bed supports to add extra rigidity and improve printing performance.

The general format is two rigid support arms that sit below the platform. 

We particularly like Raggio’s version. To install the bed supports, you’ll need no more than a handful of zip ties for an extra snug fit, as the arms are designed to friction fit with the bed screws.

Bed Wire Strain Relief

Due to how the Ender 5 Pro is designed, the bed wiring is unsupported and prone to wear and tear as they connect and rub with the printer when the bed moves. 

To avoid fraying the cables and prevent malfunctions, or worse, a fire hazard, we recommend installing a bed strain relief add-on to support the cabling.

This bed strain relief model by grizzlyeric stands out for offering a friction fit instead of having to source a bolt. 

Extruder Wire Strain Relief

Much like the bed wires, the Ender 5 Pro’s extruder wiring is left to dangle with little support. It tends to rub against the printhead mount. In time, the cables can fray, causing all manner of issues. 

Installing a 3D printed extruder wire strain relief, such as this one by kawi63603, is an elegant way to ward off any potential problems.

It’s a small change, but it could save maintenance headaches and costs in the long run.

Tool Holder

Though not a necessary upgrade, a tool holder can tidy up the workspace around the Ender 5 Pro and offer easy access to your most-used accessories.

Thingiverse contributor rempel’s Ender 5 tool holder features a cutter holder, holes for Allen keys, a spot for a screwdriver, space for spanners, a spatula holder, and a scraper holder, all in a compact add-on that mounts directly onto the Ender 5 Pro’s frame.

Filament Guide

Bowden systems are notoriously prone to causing all kinds of trouble for the filament as it feeds into the extruder, especially flexibles which tend to bend, clog, and snap.

The Ender 5 Pro’s design means the filament has very little support before the extruder. A 3D printed filament guide is a must-have upgrade to give your filament a fighting chance.

D_jespersen, a prolific Ender 5 Thingiverse contributor, has come up with a simple but elegant solution that you can more or less 3D print yourself.

You’ll need some hardware and fittings to get it mounted, but once the installation is done, the guide will drastically reduce the amount of extruder-related problems.

Cooling Duct

If cooling is causing you warping and curling headaches, installing a cooling duct can significantly increase overall print quality.

McGybeer’s version sits below the printhead fan and redirects air to the printed filament while avoiding the nozzle for quick evacuation of hot air.

It’s compact, light, and mounts using the existing fan screws on the Ender 5 Pro.

Camera Mount

Another of the more optional Ender 5 Pro upgrades, an Ender 5 Pro camera mount is a handy add-on if you need to monitor prints remotely.

It mounts to Ender 5 Pro’s frame with 4mm bolts and T-nuts and pretty much does what it says on the tin. It’s designed for light cameras like the magnetic base Wyze and other low-cost, heavy-duty models.

Thanks to Thingiverse contributor FrogmanDave for the model.

SD Card/USB Holder

As any seasoned 3D printer will tell you, part of the hobby involves amassing a catalog of SD Cards and USB sticks.

To help you sort through these, keep them safe, and add a bit of quality-of-life sheen to your Ender 5 Pro, a dedicated SD Card/Holder is a great upgrade.

We particularly like Pugwash’s Thingiverse version as it’s built to friction sit in the printer’s V-Slot perfectly, a novel way to use the space and fill a gap that all too often attracts bits of stray filament.

Multiple versions are available with different SD, micro SD, and USB slot combinations to suit your needs.

If you’ve installed an SD Card extension, there’s also another option designed to house the cabling and sit on top of the Ender 5 Pro’s SD Card slot. It also features an Ender logo, so you’ll be keeping the printer’s branding intact with this one.

You can grab it here on Thingiverse, courtesy of maker BoothyBoothy.

FAQs

If you enjoyed this article, check our other Ender 5 guides to get some more inspiration:

• What are the Top Ender 5 Plus Upgrades?
• Best Ender 3 S1 Upgrades
• My Favorite Ender 5 Enclosures
• Ender 3 vs Ender 5 – Which is Right for You?
• Check the best Ender 3 mods here

But for most makers – using PLA and wanting a balance between speed and quality – I recommend 50 – 80 mm/s for your Ender 3 speed settings.

The Ender 3 can achieve a maximum print speed of around 200mm/s – but that’s only sustainable for very specific prints!

In this guide, I’ll discuss the best Ender 3 print speed settings I’ve found for all the main filaments, including:

• ABS – 40 – 60 mm/s
• TPU – 10 – 30 mm/s
• PETG – 20 – 40 mm/s

I’ll also explain the differences between the ideal settings for V2 and Pro variants of the Ender 3, too.

For clarity, we’ll focus exclusively on print speed as it appears in slicing software, measured in mm, and representing how much filament the Ender 3 can deposit for every second of printing.

Ender 3 Print Speed Settings For Different Filament Types

The factor that most impacts the Ender 3 print speed is the type of filament used.

Depending on the filament, the settings required are vastly different. We have a dedicated article that dives into the intricacies of the best Ender 3 filament for those wanting a more in-depth look. 

Below, you’ll find a brief breakdown of the best speed settings for the four most popular Ender 3 filament types – PLA, ABS, TPU, and PETG.

Ender 3 PLA Print Speed

If you’re just starting your 3D printing, PLA is likely your first port of call.

The Ender 3 shines brightest when printing this plant-based filament. Models, household items, figurines, toys, printer parts/mods – these are viable applications for PLA.

For a solid balance between Ender 3 print speed and print quality, we recommend 50-80 mm/s.

For parts where finish and detail don’t rank as top priorities, feel free to crank up the speed to reduce print times.

Among the Ender 3-compatible filaments, PLA is the least fussy, so don’t hesitate to experiment with higher speeds, especially if you’re not concerned about detail and finish quality.

Here are a few additional settings to get you started:

• Extruder Temperature – 190° to 230°, adjust based on manufacturer recommendations.
• Heated Bed Temperature – 60° should suit most PLA projects.
• Retraction Speed – 6 mm at 25 mm/s. Lowering retraction speed and raising the Ender 3 print speed can lead to stringing, so be wary of pushing these settings too far.

Ender 3 ABS Print Speed

ABS comes second to PLA as the most popular filament to use on an Ender 3.

As ABS is tough and durable (and more flexible than PLA), suitable applications cover all types of parts subject to heavy wear and tear.

Though the stock Ender 3 can print ABS out-of-the-box, an enclosure is a must-have add-on for the best results. Without one, you’ll grapple with warping and cracking issues.

Read our guide to the best Ender 3 enclosures for a few top buyable and DIY homemade recommendations.

Typically, the Ender 3 print speed can be set to around 60 mm/s for ABS, though you may have success dropping as low as 40 to 45 mm/s.

• Extruder Temperature – 220°C to 250°C. Again, refer to manufacturer recommendations.
• Heated Bed Temperature – Around 110°, though this can vary from brand to brand.
• Retraction Speed – 6 mm at 40 mm/s. Adjust as needed to lessen stringing.

Ender 3 TPU Print Speed

Known for its rubber-like properties, TPU offers a solid option for parts subject to heavy forces and impacts, such as sporting goods, phone cases, drive belts, bumpers, and RC car tires. 

Much like ABS, printing TPU with the stock Ender 3 configuration can be quite challenging. But, with a few choice upgrades, namely an all-metal hot end and Capricorn Bowden tubing, it’s possible to pump out excellent quality prints.

Check out our guide to printing TPU on the Ender 3 for more details.

When printing TPU, slow Ender 3 print speed settings are critical. We recommend around 25-30 mm/s at most. For solid first layer adhesion, we recommend as low as 10 mm/s.

Here are a few other recommended settings:

• Extruder Temperature – Typically, 210°C to 230°C. To reduce jamming, clogging, and TPU  sticking to the nozzle, you may want to crank the temperature up a few degrees above the manufacturer’s recommendations.
• Heated Bed Temperature – Unlike PLA and ABS, TPU doesn’t imperatively need a heated bed, but anywhere from 20°C up to 60°C should help the print process move along nicely.
• Retraction Speed – TPU prefers a shorter retraction distance and speed to limit the filament moving about inside the Bowden tube, which can lead to bending and clogging. Aim for 3 mm at 20 mm/s to begin, then move lower, but stop if you hit any signs of stringing.

Ender 3 PETG Print Speed

Borrowing the best properties of PLA and ABS, PETG filament is popular for being easy to print, odorless, durable, and flexible.

It’s the filament of choice for impact and temperature-resistant parts, notably those exposed to heat or the elements. PETG’s smooth finish makes it a solid alternative to PLA for decorative projects.

Though far easier to print than ABS and TPU, PETG can produce stringing issues if printed too quickly. Dial your Ender 3 speed to 40 mm/s. There’s also a marked uptick in quality at even slower speeds, such as 20 mm/s.

• Extruder Temperature – Manufacturers usually recommend 220°C to 230°C.
• Heated Bed Temperature – 65°C-70°C give or take a few degrees in each direction. It’s worth experimenting to find the best setting.
• Retraction Speed – The idea here is to reduce the potential for stringing, so we recommend 4 mm at 25 mm/s. Some Ender 3 owners report success with low retraction distances but higher retraction speeds, so feel free to experiment here to see what works best for you.

Ender 3 Print Speed Settings For Different Model/Part Types

The type of model/part also has an impact on Ender 3 print speed. In essence, determining the right speed depends on the level of detail or surface finish quality you’re aiming for.

Detailed Prints

As a general rule, very detailed models with plenty of fine detail require a slow speed.

A higher speed will churn through the print, which doesn’t give the printer enough time to carve out intricacies and small features.

For detailed prints, mainly decorative pieces such as models and figurines, we don’t recommend going any higher than 60 mm/s. Drop as low as you want, but try to find a balance to avoid prints taking days to complete.

3D printing takes long enough at the best of times, so it’s best to exercise restraint when it comes to print speeds.

Larger Prints

Conversely, a higher print speed is entirely reasonable for larger, functional parts where detail and aesthetics aren’t necessary. The same applies to parts with no details, such as large geometric shapes or functional 3D prints with little to no surface features.

Don’t hesitate to up the speed to 80 mm/s or even higher if you aren’t worried about how the print looks. Some Ender 3 owners report decent results at speeds up to 120 mm/s, though the final print invariably includes blemishes, imperfections, and signs of ghosting.

With all this in mind and, in keeping with 3D printing’s DIY roots, we highly recommend experimenting and tinkering with different Ender 3 speed settings to find that sweet spot between quality and speed.

Remember, there’s no perfect answer, and it ultimately comes down to what works best for your needs and projects.

Max Print Speed For All Ender 3 Models

So, how far can you push the Ender 3 print speed? According to official figures provided by Creality, here are the maximum print speeds for each Ender 3 model:

• Ender 3 – 200 mm/s
• Ender 3 Pro – 180 mm/s
• Ender 3 V2 – 180 mm/s
• Ender 3 Max – 100 mm/s
• Ender 3 S1 – 150 mm/s
• Ender 3 S1 Pro – 150 mm/s

It’s worth noting that these Ender 3 max speed values represent an absolute, theoretical cap on print speed, generally referring to Ender 3 travel speed rather than the speed at which filament is deposited. 

As such, we don’t recommend dialing in Ender 3 print settings anywhere close to these maximum limits. Key in a higher value and the firmware will either have a fit or push it back down to the max print speed.

It’s unlikely you’ll ever approach these speeds; if you do, the print quality and finish will suffer as a consequence. These breakneck speeds almost guarantee you’ll bump into a host of adhesion, stringing, ghosting, and layering issues.

For these reasons, the recommended Ender 3 print speed setting is much lower for most print projects at around 50-80 mm/s.

Can You Make Ender 3 Print Faster?

If you want to crank up the print speed on your Ender 3, should keep in mind that if you print too fast, the quality of the print can suffer. When you increase the print speed, you also run the risk of experiencing issues such as layer shifting, under-extrusion, and stringing.

To ensure that your prints come out as intended, it is best to gradually increase the print speed while keeping a close eye on the quality of the print. Make sure to check for any signs of the aforementioned issues as you gradually increase the speed. This way, you can find the maximum speed that your printer can handle without compromising the quality of your prints.

FAQs

If you enjoyed this article, check our other guides to improve your prints:

• The Most Effective 3D Printing Speed Settings for Each Filament
• Ender 3 Retraction Settings: Minimise Stringing for V2 & S1
• How long does it take to 3D print something?
• Best 3D Print Speed Settings for Every Filament

But if you’re looking to expand your Ender 3’s functionality with hardware upgrades – such as automatic bed leveling, thermal runaway protection, and PID tuning – you’ll need to install more specialized firmware.

Firmware like Marlin and Jyers will expand the capability of your device and are easier to install than you might think.

Those are my top two recommendations, but the right firmware for you will depend on the specific changes you’re looking to make.

I’ll explain the particular merits of each to help you make the right choice – including how easy they are to install.

If you happen to own an Ender 3 V2, you’re in luck. A simple microSD card and the requisite files are everything you’ll need to install fresh firmware.

It’s a little more “hands-on” for Ender 3/Pro, but if you follow the steps in this guide, you’ll be able to set it up without any of the beginner mistakes I made the first time around!

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Official Creality Ender 3 Firmware

If you want the most frictionless path to upgrading your Ender 3’s firmware and don’t want to tweak the code, drawing from Creality’s pool of official firmware updates is the way to go. 

Unsurprisingly, these are tuned to suit the Ender 3, meaning you won’t encounter any compatibility issues, and there’s a version for every iteration of the Ender 3. These include the older 8-bit mainboards and the newer 32-bit V4.2.2 and V4.2.7 boards found on the Ender V2.

Over on Creality’s official forum, you’ll find a wealth of firmware versions.

There is all manner available based on your printer and options for specific hardware upgrades such as BL a Touch and a filament runout sensor. You also benefit from thermal runaway protection in the latest Creality firmware, which itself is reason enough to push through an update.

To install on the Ender 3 V2, load the BIN file onto a microSD card and pop it into the mainboard’s microSD card slot.

The process is more involved for the stock Ender 3 and Ender 3 Pro. You’ll need to flash a bootloader onto the printer using an Arduino Uno, then upload the new firmware to your printer’s mainboard.

Marlin 2.0

Marlin is an open-source firmware with a long history dating back to the early days of RepRap printers.

It’s used by many of the leading consumer printer manufacturers. Creality uses an altered and customized version for its official firmware.

So what sets it apart from Creality’s official Ender 3 firmware?

Adaptability, features, and self-configuration. If you need to tune the firmware to suit particular upgrades, fix bugs, and fine-tune the real-time coordination of the printer’s active parts, then Marlin 2.0 offers an extra degree of freedom.

PID heater control, linear advance, automatic bed leveling, power loss recovery – these are a taste of the advanced, sophisticated functions Marlin offers to those partial to tinkering their way to higher quality prints.

You can freely toggle features on and off to find the perfect mix for your needs.

Alternatively, there are great pre-configured Ender 3 profiles that you can upload straight to the printer. And, should you stumble, there’s strong community support ready to help you troubleshoot.

It’s compatible with both the older 8-bit Ender 3s along with the newer 32-bit variants, though the installation process differs as we saw above with the official Creality Ender 3 firmware.

TH3D Unified Firmware

TH3D Unified firmware is among the most accessible Ender 3 firmware options out there.

It makes tweaking settings easy while guaranteeing version stability through heavy testing, so you’re unlikely to meet any bugs or problems. Most of its iterations have pre-configured profiles specifically for the Ender 3, all tuned to work from the get-go.

TH3D is based on Marlin 2.0. It bundles in all the firmware’s basic benefits but throws in a few unique features such as:

• PID autotuning
• Power loss print resume
• Preheating for different filament types
• Assisted bed leveling
• Support for E3D V6 hot end upgrades
• Manual mesh leveling support

Much like the other firmware options in our guide, Ender 3 V2 owners have it easy with a simple microSD card upload to the mainboard. Ender 3 and Pro users will need to draft in an Arduino and flash the board with a bootloader before uploading the firmware file.

Klipper

A one-person-developed open-source firmware, Klipper is designed to dramatically boost the printing speed of the Ender 3.

Klipper achieves this by delegating computational duties to a single-board computer such as a Raspberry Pi. The board takes care of the G-Code processing side of things and calculates printer movements.

Doing so introduces more processing power into the mix than you’d get with the Ender 3’s mainboard alone.

With that extra outside SBC help, the Ender 3’s mainboard is left to concentrate exclusively on executing the G-Code commands, resulting in faster and quieter printing thanks to high-precision acceleration physics and machine kinematics-based stepper movements.

Aside from this unique approach, Klipper has a stacked feature set.

These include:

• Smooth pressure advance to reduce ooze
• Input shading to counter vibrations
• Custom programmable macros
• Automatic bed leveling support
• Thermal runaway protection
• Stepper phase end stop algorithm to improve first layer adhesion
• Support for filament sensors

Just to name a few…

It goes without saying that using a Raspberry Pi alongside the printer itself adds another layer of complexity.

In our estimation, Klipper is an advanced option better suited to seasoned tinkerers with experience working with SBCs and happy to configure the firmware themselves.

It’s also worth checking out Fluidd, a bespoke UI for Klipper if you decide to take the plunge.

It’s a lightweight and responsive interface to tame and shape the firmware to your needs. If you’ve never dabbled in similar projects, we highly recommend more beginner-friendly options such as TH3D Unified firmware or Creality’s official Ender 3 firmware.

Jyers

An up-and-coming firmware that’s slowly gaining traction among Ender 3 owners, the Jyers firmware is one to keep an eye on.

It’s based on Marlin 2.0 and is incredibly user-friendly.

Notable features include a revamped Ender 3 menu with manual leveling, Z offset, preheat, change filament menus, labeled error messages, M600 G-Code, PID autotune, and manual mesh leveling.

We can’t recommend it as it stands due to various major bugs hampering an otherwise excellent set of features. However, active development should see these smoothed out before long, at which point Jyers has everything to make it a superior alternative to the official Creality firmware.

If you are nevertheless tempted and don’t mind navigating the bugs, installation follows the usual Arduino Uno bootloader flash and firmware installation for the Ender 3 and Ender 3 Pro.

Installing Jyers on the Ender 3 V2 requires no more than a formatted microSD card and the firmware files.

What You’ll Need to Update Your Ender 3 Firmware

Depending on what Ender 3 version you have, you’ll need to make sure you have all the right gear to get started.

Below, you’ll find a breakdown of everything you need if you have an Ender 3, Ender Pro, or the newer Ender 3 V2.

Ender 3 and Ender 3 Pro

• Arduino Uno or other microcontroller
• Five female-to-female jumper cables
• One male-to-female jumper cable 
• USB cable
• PC
• Latest version of the firmware you plan to install
• Latest version of Arduino IDE software
• Single-board computer for Klipper
• Micro-USB cable for Klipper

Ender 3 V2

• A clean, formatted microSD card
• Latest version of the firmware you plan to install
• PC
• Unzip program such as WinRAR (optional – only needed if the download comes as a RAR file)
• Microsoft Visual Studio Code (optional – only needed to tweak and modify the firmware’s code)
• Single-board computer for Klipper
• Micro-USB cable for Klipper

Ender 3 S1/S1 Pro

• A clean, microSD card formatted to FAT32
• Latest version of the firmware you plan to install
• PC
• Unzip program such as WinRAR (optional – only needed if the download comes as a RAR file)
• Microsoft Visual Studio Code (optional – only needed to tweak and modify the firmware’s code)

Ender 3 V2 Neo

• A clean, microSD card with a capacity of no more than 8 GB formatted to FAT32
• Latest version of the firmware you plan to install
• PC
• Unzip program such as WinRAR (optional – only needed if the download comes as a RAR file)
• Microsoft Visual Studio Code (optional – only needed to tweak and modify the firmware’s code)

FAQ

If you enjoyed this article, check our other Ender 3 software guides to help get the most from your 3D printer:

• The Best Ender 3 3D Printing Software Overall
• Which Slicer Tool is Best for Ender 3? (Free and Premium)

But, because the Ender 3 range only comes with single extruders as standard, plenty of people (myself included) choose Ender 3 dual extrusion upgrades.

The best Ender 3 dual extruder upgrade for most people will be the Chimera Project. It’s the most straightforward DIY mod to install, offering a great balance between cost and ease of use. You can also opt for a Mosaic Palette 3 for multi-color filament splicing.

Why Upgrade?

It adds the ability to print using more than one filament type at once, allowing multi-color projects and stronger, more reliable prints which require less post-processing.

There’s also the cost difference to take into account. Adding a dual extruder to your Ender 3 is significantly cheaper than simply buying a similar printer with a dual extruder already installed.

Remember – 3D printers with dual extruders as standard are normally around $600, over three times the price of a standard Ender 3.

So, how do you go about fitting your Ender 3 dual extruder? What should you take into account before getting started? And what are the best dual extruders out there for each Ender 3 model?

We’re going to answer all of these questions here.

Ender 3 Dual Extruder Options

The open-source community for the Ender 3 is huge, and there’s no shortage of people out there with cool ideas on how to modify and upgrade Ender 3 printers with laser engravers, improved frame guards, and even advanced touchscreens.

Because of this, it’s understandable to not know off the bat exactly which one is right for you. So here we’re going to look at some of the best and most reliable Ender 3 dual extruder upgrades you can check out today.

Mosaic Palette 3 / Pro

• Price: $599-$799 — Available at Matterhackers here

While technically more of an honorable mention than an actual Ender 3 dual extruder, the Mosaic Palette 3 and Palette 3 Pro are by far the simplest option to use your Ender 3 to make multicolored prints without needing to actively modify your printer.

This is great news if you’re unconfident or otherwise unwilling when it comes to taking tools to your Ender 3, but still want to make prints using different colors and filaments.

The Mosaic Palette models act as automatic switchers, like changing the orientation of a railway line to divert specific trains or uncoupled carriages in different directions. The Mosaic Palettes act as changers that swap between up to eight different filaments per print and automatically manage each one.

The downside is the cost. At around $700, they are not cheap machines. But if you’re not very handy and have the money to spend, this is the most streamlined way to attach what could be described as a ‘multi extruder’ to your Ender 3.

Chimera Project

The Chimera Project, named after the Greek concept of an animal amalgamation rather than an ideological improbability, is the first great example of a DIY dual extruder that was designed for the Ender 4 but is still compatible with all Ender 3 models.

A standard dual extruder that’s quite cheap to produce, the Chimera Project sits on a mount that you will need to print out yourself. While that sounds like extra steps, don’t discount how cool it is to use your 3D printer to make its own modification parts.

The instructions and necessary parts are all included and linked to in very clear detail on the project’s Thingiverse page here.

Safety precautions and recommended hardware are all laid out so even the most humble of beginners will have an easy enough time getting to grips with how it all works.

Regardless of your experience with DIY, this mode you’ll need to get this Ender 3 and 4 dual extruder up and running so long as you maintain caution and follow the instructions.

Cyclops Hot End

The Cyclops Hot End is a spiritual sibling of the Chimera. The two are usable with the same printed mount, and both can alternate between different filament colors and types mid-print. The Cyclops gets its name from the fact that it looks like a single extruder but has all the capabilities of a dual extruder.

As well as standard multi-filament printing, it can also mix filaments together. While it does act like more of a ‘filament management system’ than a standard dual extruder, it still performs all the functions you’d expect.

The instructions and files, along with some hints for building and use, are all found for free here. This Cyclops seems to be a reliable and very simple way to convert your Ender 3 to have a dual extruder, unlike actual cyclopes, whose implied lack of depth perception would likely render them far less menacing than their mythology would have us believe.

Proper Printing’s Dual Extruder Ender 3 Mod

Proper Printing has developed a unique kind of dual extruder that doesn’t require a second servo. Instead, this very interesting and surprisingly clever design relies on a spring mechanism that allows the two extruders to switch use seamlessly by operating like a teeter-totter.

The extruders move in a sort of slanted V shape, with only the active extruder being parallel to the build while the other is slanted to the side while not in use. This allows extruders to be used with the same servo instead of either one spending any time-wasting space by simply waiting their turn.

This minimizes the amount of build volume lost by conserving space as well as parts in its design.

Known internally as ‘The Rocker’ and available as printable files for only $3 on their website here, it’s an absolute steal for something no Ender user should go without.

While it is said to work on any standard Ender 3 model (that is, out of the box and since unmodified) it’s unclear as to whether it will function well with other 3D printers or more modern Creality Ender models.

Though since the $3 is for the files and instructions, you’re free to experiment and tweak to see if The Rocker does work with other 3D printers provided you’re confident and techy enough to do so.

You can even modify the design yourself if it doesn’t work right away with the model you have in mind, such is the beauty of mods!

Upgrading Your Ender 3 To a Dual Extruder: Pros and Cons

Upgrading your Ender 3 with a dual extruder may seem like a no-brainer. One is more than two, and therefore better. But, like most things relating to Ender 3 upgrades printers, it’s not quite as simple as it appears.

Dual extruders come with a host of benefits, but that’s not to say there aren’t drawbacks. While not a one-way modification (meaning you can go back to a single extruder if you want), installing an Ender 3 dual extruder only to then realize it wasn’t worth the hassle will be a waste of time, money, and effort on your part.

Equipping your Ender 3 with a dual extruder comes with some negative effects that, depending on your desired uses, may not be worth the effort after all. So be sure to keep these points in mind before deciding whether or not to break out your toolbox.

Pros

• Print with more than one filament/filament type at once.
• Multicolored prints are far easier and take less time because you won’t need to constantly switch your filaments mid-print.
• You can reinforce your prints with dissolvable filaments like HIPS and PVA for better surface finishes.
• Upgrading/modifying single extruder printers is often cheaper than buying dual extruder printers.

Cons

• Dual extruders are unwieldy and difficult for beginners to handle and manage.
• Unnecessary if you’re happy enough printing in one color.
• Far more maintenance, care, and cleaning are required to keep a dual extruder clean and functioning properly.
• Lower build area volume due to the larger extruder requiring more space.

Essentially, a dual extruder requires a lot more work and maintenance to use reliably than a single extruder. If you’ve got your sights on fortified and/or multicolored prints, then upgrading your Ender 3 with a dual extruder is a fantastic idea.

On the other hand, if you’re happy with monochrome prints or are otherwise not confident you could handle the upkeep, it might be best to stay with a single extruder.

However, if you’re willing to put in the work and are still convinced you want a dual extruder on your Ender 3 despite these cons, then we’re here to help you move forward.

Before Installing a Dual Extruder on Your Ender 3

Ender 3 models are equipped with single extruders by default. However, as we’ve seen with your options for adding laser engravers, they are highly modifiable machines. This means that, with enough know-how and effort, you can upgrade your Ender 3 with a dual extruder.

Be Safe and Sure!

There is no official dual extruder extension for the Ender 3, so you’ll need to get your DIY cap on. Just remember that you’ll be dealing with mechanical parts that are designed to get extremely hot, so make sure everything is switched off and unplugged before you begin.

In addition, remember that you’re working with moving mechanical parts, and will be manipulating them in ways for which they weren’t designed, like adding an extender cable to a standard outlet. So take the greatest of care to protect yourself and your machine while you work. Always double-check your equipment and instructions before beginning so you can move forward as confidently and safely as possible.

Modifiable as the Ender 3 is, be sure you take great care in upgrading yours. Removing and replacing parts must be done with care to ensure each piece functions correctly. An improperly installed extruder will back up or fail mid-print, which increases the risk of blockages, failures, and even fires.

Be Ready to Roll Up Your Sleeves

Any third-party modification to a device will require effort and know-how beyond what you’ll find instructions for in the box. User-guided, well-explained modifications will be much more reliable than selecting any old mod at random, but all will require at least some work on your end.

These upgrades are more often than not far more complicated than buying a new part and screwing it in, so be sure to read instructions carefully and carry out tests before you really put your new mod to use. Attention to detail and cautious handiwork are musts before you’re ready to plug in and get printing.

The main difficulty in installing your own dual extruder on an Ender 3 or any 3D printer is the requirement of an extra servo. While this isn’t the case for all dual extruders (we’ll get to that later) it is certainly the case for most, and the correct installation of said servo is very important and quite finicky.

FAQs

Other articles you may be interested in:

• Ender 3 vs Ender 3 V2 vs Ender 3 Pro vs Ender 3 Max: Compared
• Ender 3 vs Ender 5
• Ender 3 Hot End Upgrades
• The Best Direct Drive Upgrades for Ender 3

Fortunately, it’s also easy to fix when you know the cause of the problem.

Let’s uncover the reasons why resin prints stick to the FEP film, and how you can quickly put this problem behind you.

Why Do Resin Prints Stick to The FEP Film Instead of the Build Plate?

Uneven or Unleveled Build Plate

A 3D printer’s build plate needs to be even and leveled at all times. When it’s even, it’s uniformly flat, and when it’s leveled it’s completely parallel to the FEP film (and it should also be free from resin residue, dents, and scratches).

Anything short of that can create printing problems, including first-layer adhesion. 

If parts of your first layer do not stick properly to the build plate, they’ll get left behind on the FEP film as the plate rises.

Low Bottom Layer Exposure Time

Exposure time is the amount of time the UV light hits the resin to turn it into a solid. The bottom layers of a print require more exposure time because they need to form a solid foundation to hold the entire print’s weight. 

If the bottom layer exposure time is not enough, these layers won’t cure and stick firmly to the build plate. Eventually, the print will fall off and the build plate will repeatedly press it into your FEP sheet as printing continues.

Low Lifting Distance

Once a layer has cured, the build plate rises away from the FEP film by one layer height. This movement also allows new resin to flow into the gap where the last layer was printed, to prepare for the curing of a new layer.

The distance the build plate rises is the lifting distance. When this distance is low, the print will not detach from the FEP sheet. It also means that there won’t be room for the new resin to flow into what would be the new gap. 

As the printing continues, the gap where resin is supposed to flow hardens and remains on the FEP sheet.

Fast Lifting Speed

Lifting speed is how fast the build plate pulls away a finished layer from the FEP sheet.

The faster the lifting speed, the greater the pulling force on a freshly cured layer, and the easier it is for this layer to peel away from the FEP film. 

When the lifting speed is too fast, and the plate adhesion is not strong enough, the print can detach from the plate and remain on the FEP film during lifting. 

Insufficient Contact With Build Plate

There are times when the contact between the print and the build plate is not enough. This can originate from slicing a model where some parts are thin and have narrow contact with the build plate. In such cases, the object will not stick to the build plate properly at these points. 

Insufficient contact makes it easy for the print to yank away from the plate and remain on the surface of the FEP sheet as the plate rises.

Loose FEP Sheet 

Sometimes, a print sticks to the FEP because the sheet is too loose. The FEP sheet stretches a little when pulled. If it is very loose, it will merely stretch along with the new layer still attached to it during the entire lifting distance.

The sheet, therefore, needs to be tight enough to resist the pulling force of the rising plate and allow a finished layer to go with the rest of the print. 

How To Stop Resin Prints Sticking To The FEP

To prevent a resin print from sticking to the FEP film, use rafts and always print on an even and level bed. You should also have enough bottom exposure time, a tight FEP sheet, and the right lifting speed and lifting distance.

Let’s see how you can do this in detail.

Even Out the Build Plate

The first step to getting an even build plate is removing any leftover resin residue from previous projects. To do this:

1. Unmount the build plate from the Z-arm of your printer.
2. Using a metal scraper, gently scrape off any visible residue.
3. To get a clean finish, pour some isopropyl alcohol on a clean, lint-free cloth and wipe the plate.

Minor scratches on the build plate are normal, especially because most of us scrape off our prints with sharp objects. But if the plate has deep scratches, dents, or grooves on it, these will require your attention. 

A good way to eliminate them is using sandpaper to smoothen the plate.

Level the Build Plate

3D prints stick much better to a build plate that is leveled. To level a build plate on a resin 3D printer:

1. Unmount the plate and ensure that it is clean.
2. Place the plate back onto the printer, but keep its screws loose.
3. If you have any resin in the resin tray, pour it back into the resin bottle using a funnel and filter paper.
4. Clean out the resin tray by dabbing it with paper towels and rinsing it with isopropyl alcohol. Avoid pouring liquid residue down the drain.
5. Attach the resin tray back to the printer and lower the build plate into the tray until the plate and FEP film makes complete contact.
6. Tighten the build plate to keep it in its new leveled position.

Increase Bottom Exposure Time

If the first layers of your prints are sticking to the FEP film, it could mean that they are not getting enough UV exposure time. Increase your bottom exposure time to make sure the resin in your first layers cures fully and sticks to the build plate.

Bottom exposure time is not set in stone. But a good range should be 8-12 times the normal exposure time for the print.

You don’t want to go overboard with this setting because too much of it can make it hard to remove the print, especially if you’re using strong 3D printer resin. Even worse, a bottom layer exposure time beyond 30 seconds can cause the printer to overheat.

Lower Lifting Speed

With lifting speed, you want to get a rate that allows newly cured layers to peel off the film while allowing the rest of the print to remain on the build plate. Keep in mind that as lifting speed lowers, printing time increases. 

You can experiment with lifting speed until you find a sweet spot, but I find that 1-3 mm/s usually causes no problems.

Increase Lifting Distance

The lifting distance should allow the build plate to rise high enough to completely peel off a printed layer from the FEP film. You don’t want it to be too high because those extra millimeters will only take up more printing time.

6 mm is a common default lifting distance, but you can increase it up to about 8 mm if you’re dealing with large prints.

Use Rafts

A raft is a thin mesh of throwaway material on which your print sits. Before the printer prints a model, it can create a raft that sticks firmly to the build plate. This way, even if your model has thin contact point areas, they will attach to the raft that is sticking nicely and firmly onto the plate.

Some people feel that a raft is a waste of resin. However, if you’re constantly having blobs of resin stuck onto your FEP film, the benefits of a raft certainly outweigh the cons. 

Most slicers have a raft feature that you can enable. You can also fine-tune what the raft will look like by tweaking these settings:

• Raft Margin: how far the raft extends around the model. Your raft should essentially be slightly bigger than your model.
• Raft Air Gap: the distance between the top layer of the raft and the bottom layer of the model. The greater the raft air gap, the less bonding you’ll have between your model and raft. Increasing this gap will make it easier to peel off the model from the raft, but keep in mind that the model still needs to stick sufficiently onto the raft. 

Because you’re adding an extra part at the bottom, make sure that the Bottom Layers value includes the total number of layers in the raft plus a few extra layers for the bottom of the actual print. This will ensure that both the raft and the first layers of the print cure solidly. 

If you are printing at a 0.05 mm layer height, try a raft layer height of 0.15 mm with 5 bottom layers. If you are printing at a 0.02 mm layer height, use a raft layer height of 0.08 mm with 6 bottom layers 

Adjust FEP Sheet Tension

You need your FEP sheet to be taut enough and not overstretch as the build plate lifts off a printed layer. To adjust the FEP sheet tension:

1. Take out the resin vat and turn it upside down.
2. Using an Allen wrench, tighten the screws on the back of the FEP frame one by one.
3. To check how tight the sheet is, lightly tap it with a finger or something soft. Avoid using any sharp or rough objects because these can put a dent in the film. As you tap on the film, it should sound similar to a snare drum.
4. An indirect measure of tightness is the frequency of the sound the film makes as you tap on it. This frequency is measured in Hertz (Hz), and the higher the frequency, the tighter the tension in the sheet.
5. A good spot is 325 Hz, which you measure using a frequency spectrum phone app such as Spectroid. This step will require alternation between tapping on the film, seeing the frequency it makes on the app, and loosening or tightening the screws until you get the required frequency.

How To Remove Stuck Resin From FEP & Dispose Of It

If you’ve successfully found a solution to the stuck resin, the next thing you want to do is remove and discard it safely. Because FEP sheets are prone to mechanical damage, it’s vital that you do this carefully.

How To Remove Stuck Resin From FEP Sheet

1. Wear safety gloves and remove the resin tray from the printer.
2. Pour any leftover resin back into the resin bottle to avoid wasting it. A funnel and thin paper filter will prevent any solid residues from getting into the bottle.
3. Place the resin tray on top of a soft cloth and hold it in your hand.
4. Use paper towels and gently dab any resin left in the tray.
5. Once all the resin is out, locate a spot on the FEP sheet that has stuck resin. Apply some upward pressure using a finger directly under that spot.
6. Scoop out the residue using a silicone spatula. Avoid using hard materials as you’re handing the FEP film. Repeat this for all the spots that have stuck resin.
7. Rinse out the tray using some isopropyl alcohol, let it dry, and place it back into the printer.

If the stuck resin is too small to scoop out, consider using the FEP cleaning/tank cleaning function.

How To Dispose of Resin 

Unlike FDM filaments, liquid resin requires extra care because it can be toxic to both the body and the environment. This also applies to eco-friendly and water-washable resin. 

However, solid resin is not dangerous, so the best way to deal with used resin is first to let it cure. Never flash or pour liquid resin down the drain.

As you clean your tank, remember to put any rinsed-out resin and used paper towels into a separate container. When you’re done cleaning, put this container under direct sunlight to let it turn into a solid. After that, you can dispose of it with normal trash. 

Normally, fixing 3D printer filament stuck in this tube is a fairly easy process. If it’s a minor clog, then you’ll find that simply pouring hot water through the PTFE tube will safely flush out stuck filament without harming the PTFE tube itself, which is capable of withstanding much hotter temperatures than boiled water.

However, depending on the filament and how bad the clog is, you may need to resort to more complex methods. 

So, I’m going to explain in this article what causes the filament to get stuck in the PTFE tube, how to fix the issue depending on its severity, and how to best avoid it happening again in the future.

What Causes Filament to Get Stuck in the PTFE Tube?

The most common cause of PTFE blockage is low-quality or damaged filament. Older or wet filament is more likely to break while it’s being fed through the tube and become lodged. Another common cause is overly aggressive retraction settings. 

While retraction is important, having it set too high can cause too much filament to be brought back up through the nozzle, which clogging the PTFE tube. 

This is especially common with Bowden extruders, which tend to have longer feeding distances and are more prone to retraction issues.

How Do You Prevent Filament Getting Stuck in the PTFE Tube?

The best way to fix the issue of filament getting stuck in the PTFE tube is to prevent it from happening at all.

Following these guidelines is a good way to lower the risk of running into this and various other problems in the future.

Use a High-Quality Filament

Low-quality or broken filament is far more likely to break and fracture while being fed through the PTFE tube, sticking to the inside of the tube, or feeding incorrectly and becoming stuck to the extruder.

Using high-quality filament from trusted manufacturers and keeping them in good condition by protecting them from direct sunlight, dusty conditions, and airborne moisture will ensure your materials arrive and stay reliable.

If you’re unsure of how to do this, or are worried that your filament has already become too wet, you can check out our guides on how to properly store filament and our recommendations for drying out wet filament.

Not only will this prevent it from getting stuck in the PTFE tube, but will also help you avoid numerous other 3D printing issues like warping, bubbling, and stringing.

Keep the Tube Clean

Just like sink drains, PTFE tubes run the risk of becoming clogged over time, no matter how careful you are. And just like these drains, the best way to stop it from becoming a problem is to keep it clean before any blockages become too much of an issue.

The best way to do this is to use a cleaning tool like a sponge or tissue soaked in hot water and threaded through the PTFE tube. If the clog isn’t particularly severe or you just want to clean it as a regular task, then letting hot water through it will help get rid of any filament particles or dust that could lead to problems down the line.

Just be sure the cleaning material is non-abrasive, as PTFE tubes, while resistant to heat, can still become damaged by rough surfaces.

Use the Correct Temperature

Filament heated at incorrect temperatures also runs the risk of getting stuck in the PTFE tube or extruder. 

This happens mostly when the temperature is set too low, as the filament hardens too quickly when cooled and sticks where it’s not supposed to, like in or on the extruder.

When in doubt, always double-check your filament’s temperature settings and make sure you stay within the range. If you’re still having problems, then increase the temperature in 5℃ increments until the filament extrudes smoothly as expected.

Ensure Proper Tension

Tension refers to the ease with which the filament is threaded through the PTFE tube and into the extruder. If there’s any friction or the filament isn’t fed straight, this can cause it to bunch up and clog the tube.

You can ensure proper tension and reduced friction by making sure the filament is fed smoothly through an undamaged PTFE tube that’s also free of debris and other previous blockages. If your PTFE tube has become damaged, leading to problems with tension, then you may need to get a new one.

If this is the case, then we recommend upgrading as well as replacing. Always double-check the heat and damage resistance of your PTFE tube before purchasing a new one, and try to avoid getting it on the cheap.

Use a Filament Guide

Filament guides are add-ons for your 3D printer that help feed the filament into the PTFE tube as smoothly and uniformly as possible to ensure reliable extrusion and printing. 

Just like needle threaders, they simplify filament feeding by removing the more precise manual work.

We recommend using a filament dry box that comes with a filament guide to maximize both efficient feeding as well as filament quality to get the best results.

Check For Wear and Tear

3D printer parts wear out over time and become less reliable. This can be as simple as loose screws that need tightening, or parts and pieces needing complete replacement.

PTFE tubes are the same, especially if you’re using particularly abrasive filaments. If it becomes too worn and scratched, then you’d do well to replace it with something stronger, like a Teflon tube.

It’s a good idea to check your 3D printer for wear regularly, even if you aren’t running into issues. This is especially important if you use your 3D printer particularly often.

How To Remove Filament Stuck to the Outside of the PTFE Hotend? 

1. Prepare your equipment

• What you need: Pliers, tweezers, a cleaning needle (or similar long, thin device), heat-resistant gloves, a screwdriver, hex drivers, and your 3D printer’s user manual

Gathering the above tools (and the correct sizes) is the first step in removing filament stuck to the outside of the PTFE hotend.

Not all 3D printers will require these tools to remove the PTFE tube for cleaning or reassembly, but they are good to keep handy just in case.

Before moving to step 2, be sure to put on your heat-resistant gloves to avoid any injury from heated parts or cleaning materials.

2. Remove the PTFE tube

Following the guide in your 3D printer’s user manual, open the extruder carriage. This will reveal where the PTFE tube is attached to your printer.

Removing the tube is often as simple as pushing on the connector to loosen the teeth that hold the PTFE tube in place. Though keep your manual handy in case your 3D printer is different.

You may need your screwdriver, depending on how your PTFE tube is attached to the printer.

3. Clear out the stuck filament

Using a vice or similar to hold the PTFE tube in place (even having someone hold it should suffice), feed the cleaning needle through the tube to remove any filament stuck to the inside. 

While any thin material will do, using the filament of appropriate width is often the best method to make sure the PTFE tube is cleared thoroughly.

Depending on the severity of the blockage, you may need to heat up what you’re feeding through to help dislodge any stuck filament.

4. Reassemble

Once you’re confident that the tube is clear, reassemble the parts carefully to make sure everything is back where it belongs. 

Once complete, run a small test print to make sure everything is where it should be and in good working order.

How To Remove Filament Stuck to the Inside of the PTFE Hotend?

Filament stuck inside the hotend is another issue you may run into, especially if you’re using low-quality or wet filament. Fortunately, you can remove this stuck filament with just a few simple steps. 

1. Partially unscrew the nozzle

Unscrewing the nozzle partially loosens the part connecting the hot and cold printer parts, known as the heartbreak. You’ll be able to identify this via the user manual if you’re unsure.

2. Unscrew the heater block from the heartbreak

Unscrewing the heater block from the heartbreak is a simple process that can be done by hand. If it’s too tight, then unscrew the nozzle slightly more to loosen it enough to be done manually.

3. Remove the heartbreak from the heatsink

Once loosened, you can manually unscrew the heatsink from the heartbreak. This can normally be done with your hands, but you may need to use your tools if it’s too tight.

However you go about it, be sure to apply a very delicate touch with this step. The connector between the heatsink and heartbreak is often thin and easily broken, so take care when removing it to avoid further need for repair.

4. Push down the ring on coupling and push PTFE tube down

With the previous parts disconnected from each other, the end of the PTFE tube should be exposed. Pushing it downwards will thread it through and allow easy access for step 5.

5. Pull the tube out the other end

With the other end of the PTFE tube exposed, you can now pull it through and free it completely. You may find that this process itself will dislodge some stuck filament, so try to have a paper towel or similar handy to catch any that falls out.

6. Remove the filament 

Once free, use an appropriately wide tool to remove any filament caught within and around the PTFE tube and hot end. 

This is also a great opportunity to check over your parts and make sure there’s nothing anywhere else that’s inhibiting smooth filament feeding and printing.

If you’re having trouble removing particularly stubborn blockages, boiling the PTFE tube in clean water will help melt and loosen any stuck filament. Don’t worry about the tube when doing this, they’re designed to withstand higher temperatures than boiling point.

7. Reassemble

Taking care not to damage any parts, refit the PTFE tube and reverse the order seen above to reattach the heatsink, heartbreak, and heater block before screwing the extruder back to be tight.

After double-checking that everything is now clean and back where it should be, run a test print to make sure everything is working efficiently, and you’re done!

That’s not to say the Ender 3 S1 isn’t already a great machine. On the contrary, Creality has made some excellent upgrades on the S1: namely a direct drive extruder, automatic bed leveling, and a refreshed overall design, but it can still benefit from upgrades.

Whether you own an Ender 3 S1 and fancy leveling up its printing potential, or are weighing up the merits of buying one, this guide has you covered with a dive into the best upgrades for Ender 3 S1.

Is the Ender 3 S1 a Good Choice for Upgrades?

Yes, the Ender 3 S1, like the previous Ender 3 printers, is very versatile. It keeps to the standard gantry style FDM construction we know and love, which means an open design, leaving plenty of space for upgrades. 

Like other Creality printers, it’s mostly open source, and taps into the DIY ethos that defined the early days of consumer-level 3D printing.

But, where the Ender 3 S1 differs from the original Ender 3 and even the more recent Ender 3 V2, is that it’s already well-equipped for tougher print jobs – even without any upgrades.

Creality balance out-of-the-box usability and functionality, while still allowing plenty of scope for upgrades, knowing that the community would want to make a great printer even better. 

In a sense, the Ender 3 S1 is a refinement of all the community’s upgrades for the original Ender 3, which Creality wisely caught on to and integrated.

Another aspect that makes the Ender 3 S1 so popular is the range of upgrades available. So many of the original Ender 3 upgrades are also compatible with the Ender 3 S1, meaning there’s years of upgrades out there for you to choose from. 

Whether it’s the heated bed, the print head, the filament sensor, cabling, or adding convenience-based upgrades like LED lights or a webcam, you’ll find every flavor of upgrade out there without having to dig too deep at all.

Additionally, because of what a good printer it is when it leaves the factory, the Ender 3 S1 has sold well, leading to a thriving community working hard to share and propagate upgrades to help other users improve their machine.

Best Ender 3 S1 Upgrades

Though there are hundreds of potential upgrades out there, we’ve hand-picked our selection of the best ones out there.

Fan Duct Upgrade

• Parts Required: 3D printed fan duct and a set of screws
• Cost: No more than $5.00 in filament and screws
• Manufacturer: N/A
• What It Upgrades: Improves filament cooling as it leaves the hot end

While the existing fan duct on the Ender 3 S1 is by no means shabby, the printing process can always benefit from some beefed-up cooling. 

This upgrade fastens a chunkier fan duct to the printer, channeling more air to the filament as it’s extruded to offer more streamlined airflow, improving overall quality and speeding up the bonding process for tougher, more durable prints.

As upgrades go, a new fan duct costs next to nothing because you can print the part yourself and only need to buy a few screws to attach it to the print head. 

Better yet, it’s compatible with both the Ender 3 S1 and Ender S1 Pro. Installation is fairly straightforward, latching onto the Ender 3 S1 print head assembly and doesn’t involve any modifications.

PEI Flexible Build Surface Upgrade

• Parts Required: PEI flexible build plate
• Cost: Check latest price at Amazon here
• Manufacturer: Creality
• What It Upgrades: Better high-temperature filament adhesion and easier print removal

The stock PC flexible build surface that ships with the Ender 3 S1 is adequate, but installing a PEI flexible plate can improve performance when working with more temperature-sensitive and demanding filaments. 

It also improves adhesion thanks to its rough texture, while the flexible characteristic makes removing prints effortless, with a simple flex popping off the finished print.

Creality offers its very own PEI flexible build surface over on the Creality Store, but you can get a third-party version for about half the price without much difference in quality, if you prefer. 

Though, check you’re getting the right size for your Ender 3 S1 or Pro. As upgrades go, installation is by far the easiest: simply remove the existing plate, and snap on the new PEI replacement using the bed’s magnetic surface.

Webcam Upgrade

• Parts Required: Webcam
• Cost: $50 – $300
• Manufacturer: Various
• What It Upgrades: Remote print monitoring and recording

A webcam upgrade allows you to monitor prints remotely – great if you’re worried about errors ruining a 12-hour print. 

You can also capture video, time-lapses, and stills to share on forums, YouTube, and with other maker friends. While it’s by no means a necessary upgrade, a webcam is a nice luxury to have for more serious makers who lean on programs like Octoprint to control and monitor their printing setup.

As for what webcams, there are countless options out there, with a variety of potential picks covering all resolutions, frame rate, focus-types, and so on. 

We’ve written a dedicated article about the best webcams for 3D printing for details, but for us, the Logitech C920 and Raspberry Pi camera module V1 are two of the best to pair with the Ender 3 S1 and Ender 3 S1 Pro. 

If your budget allows it, aim for 1080p and 30 FPS, along with a webcam that comes with a mount.

Bed Handle

• Parts Required: 3D-printed bed handle
• Cost: A few dollars of filament
• Manufacturer: N/A
• What It Upgrades: Easier and safer bed movement

A bed handle upgrade is about pure convenience and makes interacting with the bed much safer when it’s heated up to printing temperature. 

You can 3D print this upgrade rather than buying, and then fix it to the bottom of the bed via the existing knobs, so there’s no need for any additional hardware. Your only cost is the filament, making this a cost-effective option.

It’s by no means strictly necessary and doesn’t improve the printing performance of the Ender 3 S1 and Ender S1 Pro, but the curved design does make pulling the bed out at the end of the print to remove a model a lot more straightforward.

All-Metal Heat Break

• Parts Required: Creality All-Metal Hot End Kit
• Cost: Check latest price at Amazon here
• Manufacturer: Creality
• What It Upgrades: Print at a higher temperature

The hot end on the stock Ender 3 S1 is capable, and fares well with filaments like PLA and ABS, but is lined with a PTFE tube that can degrade over time at temperatures exceeding 250°C. 

This degradation not only affects the structural integrity of the tubing, affecting printing performance – but also releases toxic fumes.

By upgrading to an all-metal hot end, you remove these potential issues, opening the door for printing at higher temperatures, and therefore more filament options. For convenience and guaranteed compatibility with the Ender 3 S1, we recommend Creality’s All-Metal Hot End Kit.

There are some downsides here, though, namely that all-metal hot ends require more retraction tweaking as filament tends to attach to the heat break cavity if retracted too far. 

Another potential issue linked to this is clogging caused by heat creep. The filament may melt earlier than required, causing it to solidify in the heat break and clog the pathway. To counteract this, you’ll need to dial in cooling along with the right Ender 3 retraction settings.

Note: the Ender 3 S1 Pro already houses an all-metal hot end, courtesy of its Sprite Extruder Pro extruder/print head.

Improved Heated Bed Insulation

• Parts Required: Sheet of insulation
• Cost: Check latest price at Amazon here
• Manufacturer: Any brand
• What It Upgrades: Less power consumption and improve heated bed temperature stability

Again, the stock Ender 3 S1 heated bed is perfectly fine, but lacks some efficiency as it has no insulation material to maintain temperatures, requiring more power to get up to temperature and keep it toasty enough during the printing process. 

All you’ll need is a sheet of insulation (cotton is a popular option) specifically designed for heated beds, which then sticks to the bottom of the build surface. 

Most of the sheets come with an adhesive side, making installation extremely easy and straightforward. Just make sure you buy a sheet that matches the dimensions of the Ender 3 S1 – 220 x 220 mm.

Note: the Ender 3 S1 Pro already has bed insulation, so this upgrade isn’t needed.

Better Cable Management

• Parts Required: 3D-printed holder
• Cost: $2 – $5
• Manufacturer: N/A
• What It Upgrades: Keeps cables in good condition for longer

The Ender 3 S1 is a tidy printer as is, but there’s still room for improvement when it comes to cable management. 

The biggest culprit is the chunky ribbon cable that runs from the print to the printer mainboard case. 

While the rugged exterior of the cable housing does well to cut down on fraying, using a 3D-printed part to keep it out of the way of jagged parts as it moves with the printhead can help keep it in top condition for longer.

The cable for the stepper motor mounted on the frame and the X-axis endstop cable are also susceptible here, so it’s worth tidying things up. 

We’re fans of this holder on Thingiverse as it’s neat, easier to print, mounts directly to the frame, and has housings for all these cables, making it an efficient solution. It’s also cheap, costing nothing more than the filament required to print it.

LED Lights

• Parts Required: Creality Ender 3 S1 LED Light Bar Kit or LED light strips
• Cost: $10-$25
• Manufacturer: Creality and others
• What It Upgrades: Style points and better view of printer for monitoring, videos, time-lapses

An LED light upgrade can be useful if you’re working in low-light conditions or want better lighting for monitoring, video, or time-lapse recordings. 

It’s by no means necessary and doesn’t improve performance, but does add valuable style points to the overall look of your Ender 3 S1 or Ender 3 S1 Pro.

There are two main options. The first is to install Creality’s LED Light Bar Kit, designed specifically for the Ender 3 S1 and Ender 3 S1 Pro. It’s designed to fit into the frame of the Ender 3 S1, so is easy to set up and shines light directly over the build surface.

The second option is to attach light strips vertically to the frame. These come with adhesive sides, so are very easy to install and cost no more than $10. They are typically powered by USB, allowing you to plug them directly into the printer for power.

Why Upgrade the Ender 3 S1?

Though the Ender 3 S1 is vastly improved over the original Ender 3, no printer is perfect. 

Useful upgrades for the Ender 3 S1 include improved cable management, drawer inserts, and bed handles for example, which makes using the printer that much more enjoyable.

Elsewhere, there are upgrades that improve the Ender 3 S1’s performance, such as switching to an all-metal heat break to mitigate the natural degradation of the PTFE lining of the factory heat break, especially if you’re dabbling with tougher filaments. 

Similarly, switching to a different build plate, notably a flexible PEI variant, can improve bed adhesion and make print removal much easier.

Lastly, there are functionality upgrades to turn the printer into a fully decked-out setup. We’re talking webcams for print monitoring, OctoPrint integration for remote control and monitoring, and even LED lights to jazz up the printer’s overall look and shine a light on its hard work as the print head whizzes back and forth during the printing process. 

These aren’t essential, but are increasingly popular among more serious makers who make heavy use of their Ender 3 S1.