The aim of this printing glossary is to lay out the definitions for all of the common vocabulary you’re likely to come across in 3D printing.

So let’s cut through the confusion and clear up the most common 3d printing terms.

(P.S- if you find that there’s a particular 3d printing terminology that wasn’t included, let us know in the comments and we’ll be glad to add it in.)

Key 3D Printing Terminology

3D Modeling

3D modeling is the process of developing a digital depiction of a three dimensional object using computer aided design software. Without a 3D model there can be no 3D print. See also CAD.

3D Printing

3D printing is a process where a three dimensional object is created from a digital model, usually by depositing multiple layers of material. See also additive manufacturing.

3D Printer

A machine that produces a three dimensional object one layer at a time. There are several different types of 3d printers each using a different 3d printing method. See also FDM, SLA and SLS.

3D Printing Pen

A handheld tool that uses FDM technology and thermoplastic filament to allow users to create three dimensional objects by laying down layers of extruded print material.

45° Rule

A general rule used in 3d modeling that advises against designing objects that contain angles greater than 45° unless a support material is used. See also Bridge, Chamfer, Overhang and Support Materials.

ABS

Short for Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene. ABS is a thermoplastic printing filament used in FDM-type 3d printers. It is a petroleum-based plastic that is not biodegradable. However, it is recyclable. ABS is strong, durable and soluble in acetone. It has a printing temperature between 230C and 250C. When printing with ABS, the use of a heated printing bed (around 90C) is recommended to prevent warping.

Acetone

A chemical solvent used in 3D printing as a vapor bath that is used to finish objects made with ABS. Acetone must be handled carefully in a well-ventilated environment well away from any flame sources.

Additive Manufacturing

The process of creating a three-dimensional object from a 3D model by adding materials, usually one layer at a time. 3D printing is an additive manufacturing technology.

Adhesion

The process whereby extruded thermoplastic filament sticks to the build surface of an FDM-type during the 3D printing process. Adhesion is necessary in order to successfully print a three-dimensional object using thermoplastic filament. Lack of adhesion can cause a printed object to warp as it cools. See also warping.

ASA

Short for Acrylonitrile Styrene Acrylate. ASA is a cousin of ABS that offers the strength of ABS along with UV and overall weather resistance. This makes ASA a great choice for any object that has an outdoor application or will be exposed to weather. ASA has a printing temperature of 235C to 255C and offers a finish similar to PLA.

Atomic Method

A method of unclogging the clogged print nozzle of a FDM-type 3D printer. More information on the atomic method can be seen here.

Bed

Another name for the build plate of an FDM-type 3d printer. It is usually made of aluminum or glass. See also Print Bed.

Bed Leveling

The process of adjusting the bed of a FDM-type printer to ensure that it is level and at a right angle to the print head. Bed leveling is critical to obtaining a successfully printed object.

Belt

Used in a FDM-type printer to take the rotational energy of the stepper motors and use it to move the print head along the x and y axes. Belts are toothed and are usually reinforced to inhibit stretching.

Blue Painter’s Tape

Used in FDM printing on the bed of a printer to improve adhesion. 

Bottom/Top Thickness

A slicer program setting that is used to determine how much material will be laid down before the infill printing starts and how much material will be laid down after the infill printing is finished. See also Slicer.

Bowden Extruder

A method of conveying thermoplastic filament used by some FDM-type 3D printers. On a printer with a Bowden extruder, the cold end is separated from the hot end and attached somewhere on the printer frame. See also Cold End and Hot End.

Bowden Tube

A part on some FDM-type 3D printers with a Bowden extruder setup. The Bowden tube is used to guide thermoplastic filament from the feeder assembly in the cold end to the hot end where it is heated and extruded.

Bridge

A 3d modeling term to describe a horizontal overhang placed between two vertical supports.

Brim

A brim is a layer or layers of extruded thermoplastic that is used to stabilize small parts or islands on a printed object. A brim helps these areas to adhere to the print bed. Unlike a raft, a brim is connected only to the perimeter of an island, not to the bottom.

Build Surface

The surface on which a printed object is produced. Often various types of build surfaces will be placed onto or attached to the printer bed to improve adhesion.

Buildtak

Used in FDM printing on the bed of a printer to improve adhesion. More information on the use of Buildtak can be found here.

Build Volume

The maximum size of an object that a 3d printer can produce, measured in length times width times height.

CAD

Short for Computer Assisted Design. CAD is the use of computer software to produce a digital design in either two or three dimensional formats that can then be used to print a physical object.

CAD was originally developed for use in architecture and engineering. However, there are now a number of user-friendly applications on the market that are either free or available at a low cost.

Cartesian Coordinates

A system of coordinates along three axes representing length, width and height and expressed as x, y and z. Cartesian coordinates are used by 3d printers to move through three dimensions while printing an object.

Chamfer

A 3d modeling term that describes a symmetrical, sloping surface at an edge or corner that is used to avoid violating the 45° rule.

Cold End

A part on an FDM-type 3d printer. The cold end grabs and pulls thermoplastic filament from the spool it is stored on and moves it into the hot end.

A typical cold end consists of either a hobbed gear or knurled wheel that is attached to a feeder motor. As the shaft of the motor spins, it rotates the hobbed gear or knurled wheel which grabs the filament and moves it toward the hot end.

Cold Method

See Atomic Method

Copolymer

A type of plastic used in FDM printing. A copolymer is a material that is made up of several substances, each of which exists in long molecular chains. For example, ABS is a copolymer and consists of strands of acrylonitrile, butadiene, and styrene molecules all bound together.

Cracking

A 3D printing defect. Cracking occurs when one layer of print material bonds inadequately with another layer. When this happens, as the object cools, a split or crack occurs between the two inadequately bonded layers. See also Splitting.

Curing

The process of hardening a 3d printing material to its final form. Commonly used term in SLA printing where light is used to harden liquid photopolymer resin. See also Hardening and SLA.

Desiccant

A hygroscopic substance used as a drying agent. Desiccants are often employed in FDM printing where many printing materials are hygroscopic. See also hydrolysis.

Direct Drive Extruder

A method of conveying thermoplastic filament used by some FDM-type 3d printers. On a printer with a direct drive extruder, the cold end is placed on top of the hot end. See also Cold End and Hot End.

DLP

Short for Digital Light Processing. A form of 3D printing where a light source is used to cure photopolymer resin to produce a printed object.

Dual Extrusion

A FDM-type 3D printer with two extruders. Each extruder can print with a different filament material. Useful for building soluble support structures and producing multicolored objects.

Enclosure

A part on a 3D printer that protects the user from moving parts and high-temperature objects. Is also used to increase or stabilize the ambient air temperature around the print to stop warping or cracking of the print, caused from cooling too fast.

End Stops

A part of a 3D printer. End stops are switches mounted on each of a printer’s axes. The switch is tripped when a particular axis moves to its end. End stops enable a 3d printer to find its starting point when beginning to print.

Extrude

The process of forcing out a thin layer of melted thermoplastic onto a build surface in order to build up a printed object.

Extruder

See Bowden Extruder and Direct Drive Extruder.

Extruder Motor

A motor in the cold end that uses a hobbed gear or knurled wheel to move thermoplastic filament from a storage spool to the hot end for extrusion.

Fan

See Heat Sink Fan and Layer Cooling Fan.

FDM

Short for Fused Deposition Modeling. A 3D printing process where melted thermoplastic is deposited in successive layers to produce a  finished object using a digital model.

Feeder

See Cold End.

FFF

Short for Fused Filament Fabrication. An alternative name for FDM.

FFM

Short for Fused Filament Manufacturing. An alternative name for FDM.

Filament

The printing material used by FDM-type 3d printers. Filament is usually a thermoplastic that is fed by a cold end to the hot end as a solid. In the hot end it is heated to a printing temperature and extruded out through the print nozzle.

Filament comes in different diameters and usually sold in spools. There is a wide variety of filament materials available, as well as a wide variety of quality. In general, a high-quality filament will produce better end results that a less expensive filament that may be of poorer quality

To view our Ultimate Filament Comparison Guide, click here.

Filament Drive Gear

A part on a FDM-type 3d printer. The filament drive gear grabs that printing filament and moves it off of the storage spool and to the hot end of the printer for extrusion.

Fill Density

A slicer program setting that is a measure of how much material will be printed inside the outer shell of the object in question. Infill density is used to conserve filament while printing and speed up printing times. More information on slicer program settings can be found here.See also Slicer.

Frame

A part of a 3d printer. The frame is the chassis or outer case of a 3d printer. The frame is usually made of acrylic plastic, aluminum or stainless steel. A solid frame reduces printer vibration which increases printer accuracy and results in more precise end objects.

GCode

A program language that controls the actions of a 3d printer – things like motion, speed, rotation and depth. Commonly, this code is generated by a slicer program. See also Slicer.

Glue Stick

Used in FDM printing on the bed of a printer to improve adhesion. More information on the use of glue stick can be found here.

Hairspray

Used in FDM printing on the bed of a printer to improve adhesion. Not recommended due to mess and inconsistencies. 

Hardening

See Curing.

Heat Creep

Heat creep is a problem that occurs in FDM-type 3d printers when higher temperatures extend back and upwards from the hot end. This causes the “melt area” to extend father back as well, softening and melting the print material well before the nozzle end of the extruder.

The softened thermoplastic increases the amount of pressure needed for extrusion. Eventually, the extruder motor can’t keep up and the nozzle gets clogged.

Heat Sink Fan

A part of an FDM-type 3D printer. A heat sink fan helps to dissipate the heat from the heat sink in the hot end.

Heated Build Chamber

A part of an FDM-type 3D printer. An enclosed compartment around the build plate that eliminates drafts and temperature variations to reduce or prevent material warping.

Heated Print Bed

A part on an FDM-type 3D printer.  A heated print bed keeps the build surface warm, promoting greater adhesion and decreasing incidents of warping.

HIPS

Short for high-impact polystyrene. High impact polystyrene is a 3d printing filament that is strong, durable, non-toxic and recyclable. It combines the hardness of polystyrene with the elasticity of rubber to produce a high-impact thermoplastic that is tough and strong without being brittle.

In 3D printing, HIPS makes an excellent soluble support material. HIPS is soluble in Limonene, an easily obtainable solvent that is derived from the skin of lemons.

Hobbed Gear

See Filament Drive Gear.

Hot End

A part on an FDM-type 3d printer. The hot end heats the thermoplastic printing filament to melting temperature and extrudes the melted material onto the build surface.

A typical hot end consists of a heating block which produces the heat necessary to melt the print filament, a thermistor which controls the temperature of the heating block and a print nozzle through which the melted filament is extruded. A heat sink is also typically used to radiate excess heat away from the print end.

Hydrolysis

The chemical breakdown of a hygroscopic material due to exposure to water.

Hygroscopic

The ability of a material to absorb water. Many thermoplastic printing materials exhibit a hygroscopic tendency to one extent or another and need to be insulated from exposure to atmospheric moisture.

Infill

See Fill Density.

Kapton Tape

Used in FDM printing on the bed of a printer to improve adhesion. More information on the use of Kapton Tape can be found here. 

Knurled Wheel

See Filament Drive Gear.

Layer

In 3D printing, a layer is any one of the individual thin sections of print material that make up a printed object. Before printing, a slicer program takes the STL file generated by the CAD software and slices the digital object into multiple horizontal sections or layers.

The printer then uses the GCode generated by the slicer to produce the object one sequential layer at a time, with each layer adhering to the previous one.

Layer Cooling Fan

A part of a FDM-type 3d printer. A layer cooling fan cools off the printing material as soon as it is deposited on the build surface.

Layer Height

A slicer program setting. Layer height is the setting that establishes the height of each layer of filament in your print. In some sense, layer height in 3d printing is akin to resolution in photography or videography.

When you choose a thicker layer height, your object will have less fine detail and the layers will be more visible. When you choose a thinner layer height, a higher level of detail is possible and your layers will tend to blend into one another.

However, keep in mind that the thinner you make the layer height the more time it will take to print the object in question, since there will be more layers to print. See also Slicer.

Limonene

A solvent used in 3d printing to dissolve HIPS when it has been used as a support material. Limonene is a natural substance that is produced from the rinds of lemons.

MEM

Short for Melted and Extruded Modeling. Another name for FDM printing.

Motherboard

A part on an FDM-type 3d printer. The motherboard is the brain of an FDM-type 3D printer. It takes the commands given by the GCode and turns them into physical movements. The motherboard contains all of the circuitry needed to operate the printer’s motors and sensors.

Nylon

Nylon is a thermoplastic printing filament used in FDM-type 3D printers. It offers excellent strength and durability while, at the same time, it is exceedingly versatile.

It can be printed very thin to allow for flexibility and not lose its strength and ability to stand up to wear and tear. It also has a low friction coefficient with a correspondingly high melting temperature. This makes it an excellent choice for prototypes and moving parts of all kinds. Nylon has a printing temperature of 255C to 275C.

OBJ

Short for Object File. A 3d file format used by CAD programs as an alternative to STL files when information about color or material is important.

Overhang

Any part of a 3d model that lacks support below it. Parts that protrude at angles greater than 45° are generally considered overhangs. See also Support Materials and Support Structures.

Painter’s Tape

See Blue Painter’s Tape.

PC

Short for Polycarbonate. See Polycarbonate.

PEI

Short for polyetherimide. Used in FDM printing on the bed of a printer to improve adhesion. More information on the use of PEI can be found here. 

Perimeter

A slicer program setting. Perimeter refers to the thickness of the walls or shell of a printed object. The greater the number of perimeters, the thicker the shell of the object will be.

PETG

Short for Polyethylene Terephthalateglycol. PETG is a thermoplastic printing filament used in FDM-type 3d printers. An object printed with PETG will be very strong but, at the same time, it will have a bit of flex to it. You may be able to bend it, but it will be very hard to break it.

PETG is transparent and has a printing temperature of around 220C-235C. It has no odor when printing and produces an end result that has a marvelous finish. In addition, PETG is a great material to print with because it shrinks very little when cooling, so objects printed with PETG will experience very little warping.

To learn more about PETG filament and how to print it, click here.

Photopolymer

A material used in 3d printing that hardens when exposed to certain types of light. Photopolymers are used in Digital Light Processing (DLP) and Stereolithography (SLA).

Pillowing

A 3D printing defect. Pillowing occurs on the top surface of an object. It looks like there are gaps in the surface layer, along with little bumps or pillows. In general, pillowing is caused by a top layer that is too thin and/or improper cooling of that layer. Under certain circumstances, insufficient infill can also contribute to the problem.

PLA

Short for Polylactic Acid. PLA, or Polylactic Acid, is a biodegradable, environmentally friendly thermoplastic that is manufactured out of natural substances, usually corn or sugarcane. You’ve probably already encountered PLA in your home since it is used to make everything from garbage bags to disposable cutlery and plates.

PLA prints at relatively lower temperatures than other printing materials (180C – 210C). Even though it is biodegradable, it remains a strong and durable material, albeit brittle, capable of being used in a wide variety of projects. PLA is available in wide variety of colors and is not readily soluble.

To learn more about PLA, click here.

PMM

Short for Polymethyl Methacrylate. PMMA is a thermoplastic printing filament used in FDM-type 3D printers. PMMA is known commercially as acrylic and is marketed under various brand names, such as Plexiglas, Lucite and Perspex. Widely used as an alternative to glass in applications where more strength and durability is needed, PMMA has significantly higher impact strength than glass.

It also has half the density of glass but is comparable in clarity and UV absorption. PMMA comes is widely used investment casting to produce patterns that can be used as molds for metal objects and parts. PMMA has a printing temperature from 235C to 255C is soluble in acetone.

Polycarbonate

Polycarbonate is a thermoplastic printing filament used in FDM-type 3d printers. It is an extremely strong, lightweight and transparent thermoplastic. Marketed under the trade name Lexan, it is used to make products as varied as CDs and DVDs, bullet proof glass, riot gear, sunglass lenses, scuba masks, electronic display screens, phone and computer cases and much more.

Polycarbonate has a very high impact strength, far greater than glass and more than ten times that of an acrylic material like PMMA. At the same time, it has less than half the density of glass, but with comparably high level of transparency. In fact, polycarbonate transmits visible light better than many kinds of glass.

With polycarbonate you get a strong and durable material that can carry weight and survive rough handling, but is also flexible enough to withstand tensile forces that shatter, deform or break other materials. Polycarbonate has a printing temperature of 260C to 300C and is soluble in dichloromethane.

Polymer

A type of plastic used in FDM printing. A polymer is a material that is made up of multiple long molecular chains of a single substance. For example, PVC or poly vinyl chloride consists of a bunch of vinyl chloride molecules.

Power Supply

A part on a FDM-type 3d printer. The power supply takes the 240V AC electricity from the wall and converts it to low voltage DC power for your printer to use.

Print Bed

See Bed.

Print Head

See Cold End, Hot End.

Print Nozzle

A part on a FDM-type 3d printer. The print nozzle is attached to the bottom of the hot end and is where the melted thermoplastic printing material is extruded. In general, a smaller diameter nozzle will produce finer details in the finished object, albeit at a slower print speed and a greater risk of clogging.

To learn more about various Nozzle sizes and why you’d use them, click here.

Print Resolution

An indication of printing quality. Horizontal resolution refers to the movements made by the print head along the x and y axes. The smaller the movements, the higher level of printing detail the printer produces.

Vertical resolution refers to movements by the print head along the z axis. The smaller these movements, the smoother the finished surface of the printed object. See also Layer Height.

Print Speed

A slicer program setting. Print speed is how fast the print head travels while extruding filament. Therefore, optimal speed depends on the object you are printing and the filament material that you are using to fabricate the object. In general, simple objects with less detail can be printed faster without complication.

On the other hand, more complex objects with more detail will benefit from a slower print speed. Print speed can also affect adhesion to the print surface, cause under or over extrusion and other problems. Because of this, it pays to experiment with your print speed to see what works best for the job you’re printing. See also Slicer.

Printing Temperature

The optimal temperature for a thermoplastic printing material to be at for effective extrusion. The printing temperature differs from material to material.

Printing Volume

See Build Volume.

Raft

A raft is a layer or layers of extruded thermoplastic that is used to stabilize a printed object. A raft helps an object to adhere to the print bed. Unlike a brim, a raft is connected to the perimeter and bottom of an object.

RepRap

Short for Replication Rapid Prototyper. A project started in Britain in 2005 to produce a 3d printer capable of printing another 3d printer. Also the brand of the printers produced through the project.

Retraction

A slicer program setting. This setting is used to pull the filament slightly back into the print head during times when the head is traveling from one print point on an object to another.

This stops the filament from leaking out of the print nozzle and leaving strings of material across otherwise empty space. If your CAD design has a discontinuous surface, your slicer program should automatically enable the retraction setting. See also Slicer. Here’s a guide to common Slicer settings.

Shell

The outer wall of a designed object.

Shell Thickness

A slicer program setting. Shell thickness refers to the number of layers that the outer wall will have before infill printing will begin. The higher the setting is for shell thickness, the thicker the outer walls of your object will be.

Obviously, thicker walls make for a sturdier object, so if strength is a quality that you’re after, it pays to increase the shell thickness appropriately. Obversely, delicate or decorative designs do not usually require strength. Increasing the shell thickness in these instances provides no real benefit and will likely distort the design of the object being printed. 

SLA

Short for Stereolithography. A 3D printing technology. SLA focuses a UV laser onto a tank of photopolymer resin. The light cures or hardens the top layer of the resin, building the object from the top down.

SLA produces high resolution objects with extremely smooth finishes. However, that resolution and finish comes with a price.

Slice

A horizontal layer of a digital object produced by a slicer program. Each slice contains coordinates for printing locations on the build surface, as well as instructions as to layer height, shell thickness and more.

Slicer

A 3D slicer is a piece of 3D printing software that takes a digitized 3D model and converts it into printing instructions that your printer can then use to turn the model into a physical object. In essence, the slicer takes the CAD model and “cuts” it into layers.

It then calculates how much material needs to be used for that layer, where the material should go and how long it will take. It then converts all of the information for each layer into one GCode file which is sent to your printer.

SLS

Short for Selective Laser Sintering. SLS 3D printers use powdered polymer material to build a 3D object through the use of a laser. The laser sinters or binds the powder together one layer at a time from the top down.

Soluble Materials

Any thermoplastic printing material that is soluble, or dissolvable, when immersed in another substance. PVA and HIPS are both popular soluble printing materials.

Solvent Method

A method of unclogging the clogged print nozzle of a FDM-type 3d printer. More information on the solvent method can be seen here.

Splitting

See Cracking.

STL

A 3D file format used by CAD programs. You can use an STL editing software to edit and optimize them.

Stringing

A 3D printing defect. Stringing is usually caused by the print nozzle oozing print material as it moves from one place to another. The oozed material cools and hardens into thin “strings” – hence the name.

Support Materials

Printing materials used to support overhangs on a designed object. Support materials are usually soluble to facilitate easy removal after printing.

Support Structures

A layer or layers of extruded thermoplastic that is used to support overhangs on designed objects. Support structures are usually removed after printing is completed.

Stepper Motor

Unlike regular DC motors, which rotate continuously when given power, stepper motors rotate in increments. This gives them precise control over their position. Most FDM-type 3d printers use NEMA 17 type motors with 200 increments (steps) per revolution.

Subtractive Manufacturing

The opposite of additive manufacturing. The process of creating a three-dimensional object from a 3d model by removing materials, usually one layer at a time. CNC machining is an example of subtractive manufacturing.

Thermistor

Also known as a thermally sensitive resistor. A part on a FDM-type 3D printer. A thermistor is an element with an electrical resistance that changes in response to temperature. Used to regulate the temperature of the heat block in the hot end of a printer.

Thermoplastic

A substance, usually a plastic, that is able to melt and harden at precise temperatures.

TPU

Short for Thermoplastic Polyurethane. TPU is a thermoplastic printing filament used in FDM-type 3d printers. It is an extremely flexible and durable extrusion printing material. Its flexibility and elasticity make it an excellent choice for belts, springs, and phone cases. TPU is also very resistant to abrasion, as well as grease, oil, and wide variety of solvents. This makes it an excellent choice for industrial applications as well. TPU has a printing temperature of 210°C to 230°C.

To learn more about the differences between TPU and it’s close relation (and more commonly available) TPE, click here.

Under Extrusion

A problem experienced by FDM 3D printers. Under extrusion occurs when your printer is unable to supply the correct amount of material needed to correctly print a layer. You can learn more about under extrusion and how to correct it here.

User Interface

A part on some FDM-type 3d printers. Some FDM-type printers have an LCD screen so they can be controlled directly without hooking them up to a computer.

Warping

A 3d printing defect. Warping occurs when an object is cooling after printing. Cooling causes contraction and this contraction causes stress along the object’s lateral surfaces. The quicker the cooling occurs, the greater the stress on the object.

This stress is greatest at corners where two sides meet. There, the pulling stress exerted on both sides causes the corner of the object to deform and pull up and inward. The result is not pleasing to the eye and usually makes the object unusable. You can learn more about warping and how to correct it here.

Water Method

A method of applying Kapton Tape to the build plate of an FDM-type 3D printer to improve adhesion. You can find out more about the Water Method here. 

X-Axis

A part of the Cartesian coordinate system used by FDM-type 3d printers to move through three dimensions while printing an object. The x-axis represents left to right horizontal movement.

Y-Axis

A part of the Cartesian coordinate system used by FDM-type 3d printers to move through three dimensions while printing an object. The y-axis represents front-to-back horizontal movement.

Z-Axis

A part of the Cartesian coordinate system used by FDM-type 3d printers to move through three dimensions while printing an object. The z-axis represents top to bottom vertical movement.

Our aim was to make this 3D print Glossary as complete as possible. If you feel we’re missing any keywords, or would like further explanation please comment below or contact us. 

With 3D printing more accessible than ever before, and prices at their lowest since consumer-friendly machines exploded onto the scene, now seems like an ideal time to take the plunge. There’s a 3D printer for all budgets and skill levels.

As a site dedicated to 3D printing, we’re more than a little biased. But, we’re well aware that 3D printing isn’t for everyone. Though owning a printer opens the door to creative possibilities and myriad applications, it can be demanding and frustrating.

To help you avoid nursing pangs of regret a few months down the line, or conversely, give you the confidence to kickstart what can be a deep and gratifying hobby, here’s what’s worth considering before buying your first 3D printer.

Is a 3D Printer Worth Having?

A 3D printer is worth having: you can 3D print almost anything at home even with a $200 3D printer, including replacement parts for broken appliances, action figures and other toys for your kids, and almost anything else you can imagine. There are millions of free STL files online for you to download and print, or you can even design your own files to 3D print.

3D Printer Pros and Cons

Pros

A World of Possibilities

One of the biggest advantages of owning a 3D printer is the possibilities it opens up. A 3D printer is first and foremost a tool, and chances are, if you can think it up, a 3D printer can bring it to life in three-dimensional glory.

While you’ll initially head over to Thingiverse to bring to life all manner of wacky bits and bobs, the real magic happens when you let your imagination run wild and make the step to designing and printing your own ideas.

A Hobby for the Curious Tinkerer

Though manufacturers have done well to democratize the technology and make it more accessible, 3D printing remains a tinkerer’s hobby. There’s a sizable chasm between owning a 3D printer and producing quality prints. So, there’s plenty to learn along the way. The skill set required will see you branch out into other fields, including design, electronics, and computing.

While this might not suit everyone, those who enjoy immersing themselves in a complex hobby and letting their curiosity guide them will find plenty of pleasure in demystifying the art and technical underpinnings of 3D printing.

Enable and Expand Other Hobbies and Skills

3D printing can be leveraged to bolster and enable other hobbies, making it an extremely versatile addition to any maker’s tool kit. There’s no end to how 3D printing fosters other hobbies, and that’s one of the best reasons to get a 3D printer.

For example, if you’re into tabletop gaming, you can produce no end of figurines or terrain. If you like to express your love for this or that pop culture icon, from Marvel characters to your favorite anime, a 3D printer can churn out customized models.

Love collecting retro games? You can 3D print decorative storage solutions. Want to spruce up your interior design with bespoke pieces? 3D print vases, decorative pieces, and so much more.

Money-Making and Business Potential

As with any business venture, using a 3D printer for money-making and business ends comes with its share of uncertainty. But with planning, a little luck, and a clear business plan, it’s possible to leverage a 3D printer to fuel a small business.

Etsy is awash with creators who make a living selling their 3D printed creations, and a quick Google search reveals a glut of 3D printing services fueled by industrial-grade 3D printers.

Personal Satisfaction

3D printing rubs shoulders with the likes of woodworking and pottery as one of the most rewarding hands-on hobbies.

From assembling the printer to firing off that first print, by way of tweaking settings and making modifications to getting over those troubleshooting humps, there’s a genuine pleasure in chasing down that perfect print, acquiring skills, and learning the ins and outs of your 3D printer.

If you’re the type of person who loves self-led discovery and finds learning fun, few hobbies deliver quite as much personal gratification as 3D printing.

Cons

Time-Consuming

From multiple-hour prints for simple projects, not to speak of mammoth 24-hour or more sessions for larger parts, to hours spent perusing forums and watching YouTube tutorials by way of endless slicer tweaking, 3D printing gobbles up your time.

Other than using your 3D printer periodically every few months, in which case you may want to question whether it’s buying in the first place, there’s no way around the fact you’ll need to invest substantial amounts of time to get the best out of your machine.

With the pace of life already moving as rapidly as it is, investing so much time in yet another pursuit, especially one that will fall firmly into the hobby category for most, simply isn’t on the cards. That’s probably why eBay, Facebook Marketplace, and Craig’s List are awash with second 3D printers with barely a scratch on them.

3D printers are complex and can have issues

3D printing is synonymous with troubleshooting. Encountering issues is not a question of if but when they’ll pop up.

Regardless of whether you buy an entry-level machine or a $1,500 premium 3D printer, you’ll invariably spend quite a bit of time solving problems. Whether that’s leveling the bed correctly, improving first-layer adhesion, tweaking retraction settings in the slicer, or tightening up belts on the printer itself.

If the thought leaves you cold, 3D printing may not be for you. But, if you’re open to solving problems and enjoy overcoming an often steep learning curve, there’s plenty of satisfaction in detecting, assessing, and fixing issues.

Expensive

3D printing is expensive, and the costs continue to mount the more you print. Prints will fail, and you’ll eat through spool after spool of filament in no time. Parts will fail and need replacing. And, of course, there’s the initial cost of the printer itself. 

That said, a $20 1kg spool of PLA houses enough material to produce dozens if not hundreds of models, which if you were to buy them retail, would cost you vastly more money.

In that respect, 3D printing can an extremely affordable hobby, if you’re replacing a costly buying habit.

Read more:

• How much does a 3D printer cost (buying, and running over time)
• How much electricity does a 3D printer use? (Explained)

What to Print?

Printer’s paralysis is real. What do we mean by this? Let’s set the scene.

You’ve printed a handful of objects, likely pulled from Thingiverse or courtesy of a ‘best 3D print ideas’ lists. Then a few more bits of glorified plastic that serve no actual purpose, yet more pieces of arbitrarily molded junk thrown into the world to slowly find their way into the environment. And a few more.

What’s next? Knowing what to print becomes a tough task with so many possibilities at your fingertips. Before long, the 3D printer’s been left to gather dust for weeks on end and is starting to look like a rather bulky paperweight.

Unless you have a clear idea of what you want to print and the creative desire to match or have an ancillary hobby that you can enable and expand upon with a 3D printer, the initial shine and appeal of 3D printing can rub off rather quickly.

What Can You Use a 3D Printer For?

When asking yourself, ‘is 3D printing worth it?’ it’s essential to understand what a 3D printer can and can’t do. Though 3D printing opens the door to many possibilities, there are hard limits to what you can do, defined by the natural properties of materials, printer specifications, and build volume.

To avoid disappointment, we recommend establishing a firm idea of what projects you want to undertake and checking that a printer is indeed up to the task. To help, here’s a quick breakdown of typical 3D printing applications possible with a consumer-grade 3D printer. This is a loose list and there are countless niche applications and inventive ways people use 3D printers out there.

• Decorative models, figurines, statues, and miniatures
• Art and crafts
• Household items like vases, clips, storage solutions, phone cases, replacement plastic casing parts for home electronics
• Cosplay parts and costumes
• Tabletop gaming terrain and pieces
• Rapid prototyping

You may have read articles about 3D printed houses, medical equipment, jewelry, clothes, sneakers, prosthetics, and dental solutions. While these are possible, they are generally beyond the capabilities of most 3D printers under $1000 and require industrial-grade machines.

3D Printing Costs

• 3D Printer – Anywhere from $200 for an entry-level FDM printer like the Ender 3 up to $1000 for a premium consumer printer like the Original Prusa i3 MK3S+. Expect to pay roughly the same for a resin printer.
• Filament – Anywhere from $15 to $100 for a 1 kg spool depending on the type and quality of the material. More exotic filaments tend to cost more, which is worth keeping in mind.
• Replacement Parts – This varies depending on the component, but a set of decent nozzles cost around $30, and you can expect to pay over $50 for a replacement hot end.
• Upgrades and Modifications – For example, a new build plate costs around $40, a metal extruder will set you back around $15, and a new mainboard costs at least $60.
• Accessories – A filament dry box costs upwards of $50, while an enclosure will generally set you back over $80. We’re just scratching the surface of available accessories and costs can rapidly swell.

For a more detailed analysis of the costs involved, check out our dedicated How Much Does a 3D Printer Cost To Buy & Maintain guide.

FAQs

Are 3D Printers a Waste of Money?

The cost of the printer, the ongoing cost of filament, replacement parts, and buying good quality STL part files if you aren’t designing them yourself means you’ll sink a hefty sum into 3D printing if you stick with it.

But, this won’t come as a surprise for those accustomed to spending money on hobbies. Whether spending the money is worth it depends on whether you’ll derive satisfaction, develop new skills and gain knowledge over time, and, ultimately, have fun with 3D printing. For many, this is priceless and well worth the investment.

When asking yourself, ‘should I buy a 3D printer?’, it’s worth thinking honestly about whether it’s a flight of fancy or something that could evolve into a long-term hobby – why do I need a 3d printer?

Is 3D Printing an Expensive Hobby?

Absolutely, even an entry-level 3D printer sets you back around $200, with higher prices for better and more performance-oriented machines. On top of that, you have to factor in ongoing costs, such as materials, replacement and modification parts, the cost of design software, electricity, and less tangible costs such as space, time, and effort.

Is It Profitable to Buy a 3D Printer?

For most, buying a 3D printer isn’t profitable. Only a tiny fraction of owners successfully turn a 3D printer into a thriving business. The market is already saturated with professional part printing services, Etsy stores selling all manner of artistic and functional pieces, and STL file designers/sellers.

For business, the story is a little different. A 3D printer can be a robust product development and prototyping tool that’s much cheaper than traditional casting and modeling methods. But, this depends on a product going to market, mass production, and sustained sales to turn your investment into profit. So even here, profitability isn’t guaranteed.

Related articles:

• Main Types of 3D Printer
• Best FDM 3D Printers
• Fastest 3D Printers
• Best Open Source 3D Printers
• Best 3D Printers

We’ve included our top Nylon filament 3D printing tips, as well as recommending the best Nylon filaments you can buy today.

Nylon 3D Printer Filament Properties

Nylon is a form of polyamide, with forms such as PA12 commonly used in SLS 3D printers.

Nylon filament is known for being extremely tough and durable, as well as for its flexibility. Though ABS is known for its toughness, Nylon is a step above, with very high impact resistance, abrasion resistance and increased flexibility.

While filaments like PLA can be brittle, Nylon is tough, and when printed thick it can handle large shocks and impacts. Unlike ABS, it does not print with bad odors.

This makes it ideal for functional parts that can be made quickly using rapid prototyping, tested for errors, and quickly iterated on.

Nylon also offers very good surface finish if you use the right 3D slicer and printing settings, and despite the toughness can be printed very intricately and accurately. We discuss the best settings for 3D printing Nylon further on in our Nylon filament guide.

Best Nylon 3D Printer Filament

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There are a number of popular Nylon filament brands and types. The cheapest Nylon filaments can cost as low as $30 per kilo, whereas NylonX is more expensive as it is mixed with carbon fiber, as is NylonG which is mixed with glass fibers for added strength.

MatterHackers PRO Series Nylon

• Price: $62 –  0.75 kg spools – Available at Matterhackers here
• Printing Temperature: 240°C
• Bed Temperature: 60°C
• Filament Diameter: 1.75 mm and 2.85 mm
• Available Colors: Black, White, Blue, Gray, Orange, Red, Green

MatterHackers PRO Series Nylon is a premium material at a not so premium price. It’s made with some of the tightest tolerances among major manufacturers, with thorough quality assurance testing and a formula based on high-purity additives.

MatterHackers PRO Series Nylon is particularly well suited to applications that need a tough, impact-resistance filament with decent flexible properties.

MatterHackers also offers a broad range of colors, unlike many other manufacturers who stick to one or two plain colors, usually black and white.

MatterHackers NylonG

• Price: $64.00 – 0.5 kg spool – Available at Matterhackers here
• Printing Temperature: 255°C
• Bed Temperature: 65°C
• Filament Diameter: 1.75 mm and 2.85 mm
• Available Colors: Safety Orange, White, Blue, Desert Tan, Olive Green, Silver, Black, White, Red

MatterHackers NylonG glass-fiber-reinforced filament is a high-quality material designed to reduce Nylon’s natural flexibility, boosting impact resistance and tensile strength. It does this while still keeping its shape and structure intact even under heavy loads. Real-world applications include aerospace development and prototyping, automotive manufacturing, and others where structural integrity is critical.

Though a premium Nylon filament, MatterHackers NylonG remains reasonably priced for the quality on offer and is available in the company’s signature range of colorful options.

MatterHackers NylonX

• Price: $58.00 – 0.5 kg spool – Available at Matterhackers here
• Printing Temperature: 250-265°C
• Bed Temperature: 60-65°C
• Filament Diameter: 1.75 mm and 2.85 mm
• Available Colors: Matte Black

MatterHackers NylonX marries Nylon with micro-carbon fibers to create a tough, stiff, and durable engineering-grade material for functional, high wear-and-tear, shatter-resistant parts. It’s one of the most popular and best carbon fiber Nylon filament available.

Though MatterHackers NylonX is only available in matte black, the finish is smooth and requires no post-processing. It’s a high-performance filament with a price tag to match and is easier to print than standard Nylon as it’s less prone to warping due to the carbon fiber filling.

Read more: our NylonX filament guide

MatterHackers NylonK

• Price: $72.00 – 0.5 kg spool – Available at Matterhackers here
• Printing Temperature: 250-265°C
• Bed Temperature: 60-65°C
• Filament Diameter: 1.75 mm and 2.85 mm
• Available Colors: Black

The last of MatterHackers composite Nylon filament, MatterHackers NylonK is reinforced by Kevlar fiber, the same stuff used for ballistic body armor. It’s accordingly durable under heavy stress, stiff, and extremely abrasion-resistant. In action, NylonK works incredibly well for parts subjected to sustained friction and is the best Nylon filament for heavy-duty applications.

The color palette is limited to black, but the filament’s properties mean it’s best suited to the most demanding application where aesthetics factor in low on the list or priorities. NylonK costs a little more than MatterHackers’ other Nylon, but remains competitively priced for what it is.

Overture Nylon – best cheap nylon filament

• Price: Check price on Amazon here
• Printing Temperature: 250-270°C
• Bed Temperature: 25-55°C
• Filament Diameter: 1.75 mm
• Available Colors: Black, Gray

Pulling the price down in line with most PLA brands, Overture Nylon stands as a low-cost option for beginners trialing Nylon printing for the first time. Though bearing a budget price, Overture Nylon doesn’t cut any corners in terms of raw materials and the filament delivers consistent, good-quality prints.

Overture’s signature paper spool wins points. The Nylon is also odorless when melted and features zero warp technology to ease those common first-layer problems. The color palette is pretty limited, but you won’t catch us complaining at that price.

eSUN ePA Nylon

• Price: Check price on Amazon here
• Printing Temperature: 260-290°C
• Bed Temperature: 70-90°C
• Filament Diameter: 1.75 mm
• Available Colors: Transparent

eSUN ePA Nylon is a solid choice if you’re looking for something a little more reliable than the ultra-budget options. It boasts excellent all-round resistance to heat, chemicals, impact, and wear with a classic tough, durable, and reasonably flexible Nylon profile. It’s somewhat prone to warping, but nothing a good dollop of glue or Magigoo and a PEI surface won’t help mitigate.

Because eSUN EPA Nylon ships transparent, it’s particularly well suited to dyeing and absorbs color well. So, though there are no colors to choose from, you can quickly adapt the filament to your project’s needs. eSUN also claims the filament is non-toxic.

Polymaker PolyMide CoPA

• Price: Check price on Amazon here
• Printing Temperature: 250-270°C
• Bed Temperature: 25-50°C
• Filament Diameter: 1.75 mm, 2.85 mm
• Available Colors: Black

Polymaker PolyMide CoPA is a high-quality, premium filament designed to merge easy printing with properties fit for the most demanding applications. It’s strong, tough, and heat resistant up to 180°C. 

Among commercially available Nylon, Polymaker PolyMide CoPA is one of the least susceptible to first-layer woes courtesy of Polymaker’s Warp-Free technology, which is not just marketing spin but a genuine feature.

Polymaker PolyMide CoPA ships in a resealable vacuum bag, so you won’t need to source a purpose container to keep it dry between print sessions. Color is limited to black, and the asking price is comparatively high, but the quality of the printed filament justifies the higher price tag.

Polymaker PolyMide PA6-CF

• Price: Check price on Amazon here
• Printing Temperature: 280-300°C
• Bed Temperature: 25-50°C
• Filament Diameter: 1.75 mm, 2.85 mm
• Available Colors: Black

Polymaker PolyMide PA6-CF combines PolyMaker’s standard PA filament Nylon with carbon fiber. The carbon reinforcing ensures the material is stiff, durable, and heat resistant while also making it less challenging to print with superb layer adhesion.

As with Polymaker’s other PolyMide filament, PA6-CF features Warp-Free technology. It deflects heat up to 215°C. It excels for the most demanding engineering applications; just make sure you have a hardened, wear-resistant nozzle for the best results.

Polymaker PolyMide PA6-GF

• Price: Check price on Amazon here
• Printing Temperature: 280-300°C
• Bed Temperature: 25-50°C
• Filament Diameter: 1.75 mm, 2.85 mm
• Available Colors: Gray

Last but not least in Polymaker’s Nylon range, we have Polymaker PolyMide PA6-GF. This time, the Nylon is reinforced with glass fiber for superb impact resistance and the usual thermal and mechanical properties you’d expect from Nylon. 

It’s designed to keep warping to a minimum, thanks to Polymaker’s Warp-Free technology. While a high-quality product, PolyMide PA6-GF is among the cheapest Polymaker Nylon-filled materials.

colorFabb PA Neat

• Price: $60.00 – 0.5 kg spool – Available here
• Printing Temperature: 265-290°C
• Bed Temperature: 50°C
• Filament Diameter: 1.75 mm, 2.85 mm
• Available Colors: Black

colorFabb PA Neat is a straight Nylon FDM filament with low-warp properties designed to retain its mechanical and temperature resistant properties up to 120°C. It’s a premium filament that’s tough and produces consistently impressive prints.

Taulmann Glass Fiber Alloy Nylon

• Price: Check price on Amazon here
• Printing Temperature: 250-260°C
• Bed Temperature: 55°C
• Filament Diameter: 1.75 mm, 2.85 mm
• Available Colors: Beige

Taulmann Glass Fiber Alloy Nylon is another glass fiber reinforced Nylon we have no qualms recommending. It’s affordable and represents the culmination of a year’s worth of research on Taulmann’s part to nail the perfect formula.

It features a custom Nylon-glass fiber blend designed to meet the tensile and thermal resistant needs of demanding industries like aerospace, automotive, and defense.

Ultimaker Nylon

• Price: $70.00-$80.00 – 0.75 kg spool – Available at Matterhackers here
• Printing Temperature: 230-260°C
• Bed Temperature: 60-70°C
• Filament Diameter: 2.85 mm
• Available Colors: Black, Transparent

A professional option targeting manufacturing and engineering applications, Ultimaker Nylon is one of the best Nylon 3D printer filament options if you have the cash to spare. Ultimaker Nylon is engineered to resist ambient humidity far better than most Nylon brands, meaning reduced moisture absorption, largely removing the need to dry filament if stored correctly.

It features a balanced profile, juggling solid durability, corrosion resistance, and ductility up to 210% of its original form before breaking. Note it’s only available in 2.85 mm filament diameter.

Fiberthree F3 PA Pure Pro

• Price: $83.00 – 0.5 kg spool – Available at Prusa store here
• Printing Temperature: 275-285°C
• Bed Temperature: 60-70°C
• Filament Diameter: 1.75 mm
• Available Colors: White, Black

Fiberthree F3 PA Pure Pro is an unfilled PA 6 Nylon with high tensile strength, low moisture absorption properties, and a solid resistance profile covering heat, chemicals, and abrasion.

Printed parts come out with a smooth surface finish. Fiberthree F3 PA Pure Pro’s low warp properties and solid adhesion performance make printing a tad easier than a big chunk of the other Nylon filament brands on the market. 

At $83.00 for a kilo spool, Fiberthree F3 PA Pure Pro hits the wallet quite hard, so we don’t recommend the investment unless you need a high-quality Nylon filament.

Best Nylon Filament Brands

Matterhackers Pro Series Nylon offers outstanding quality filament at a reasonable price. Additionally, Matterhackers proposes a broad range of colors to choose from in the Pros Series Nylon range, along with two 1.75 mm and 2.85 mm options. Matterhackers Pro Series Nylon comes highly rated for commercial prototyping.

Overture Nylon is another excellent choice for those sticking to a budget and willing to sacrifice quality for a lower price. We see it as a perfect choice for beginners trying their hand at Nylon for the first time. We particularly like the anti-warping and odorless features. It’s available in 1.75 mm, either in gray or black.

Also worth mentioning for businesses and designers not willing to compromise on quality is Ultimaker Nylon. Premium through and through, it delivers quality prints with also a nod to nylon’s tricky storage with work done to minimize moisture absorption. You’ll find Ultimaker Nylon available in 2.85 mm diameter, in either black or transparent.

Reasons to 3D Print Nylon

3D Printed Nylon is Extremely Durable

You typically won’t find it snapping like brittle materials. When printed in thick parts, with higher density infill and wider wall thicknesses it produces a very strong part that can handle significant shock and has excellent impact resistance.

However when printed thinly it becomes very flexible – think living hinges and other high use parts.

Nylon 3D filament Has a Very Low Friction Coefficient

This means Nylon is ideal for moving parts. If you need a bushing for a lower RPM shaft where a bearing would be too small or unnecessary, Nylon would be the perfect material. Or those white gears in RC car gearboxes? They’re Nylon, and they don’t need lubrication because of the low friction coefficient.

It Has Incredible Tensile Strength

Have you ever tried to break a cable tie, using your hands? It likely didn’t work out too well. They’re usually made from Nylon – for good reason. Nylon rope is also very common, having exceptional tensile strength.

It’s Very Flexible

As a result, Nylon parts are not only strong, but have great impact resistance. This makes Nylon filament ideal for parts that will come under a lot of strain and force, such as in mechanical gears and functional parts.

Disadvantages of Nylon filament

• Prone to warping: if not properly optimized, 3D printed Nylon parts can curl up on the edges, rendering functional parts such as gears completely useless. Carefully optimized print settings are required, as well as a heated bed, enclosure, and build surface to prevent warping.
• Requires airtight storage: to stop water absorption which affects print quality. This adds to expense, though we recommend filament containers further on in this article that can extrude directly from a small hole, so you do not need to remove filament to print.
• Requires additional investment in a high-quality hot end: we highly recommend upgrading to a high-quality hot end, which we recommend in our hot end buyer’s guide. Nylon is tough and requires higher temperatures than filaments like PLA, which some more basic hot ends can struggle with. To get the most out of your filament, consider upgrading your hot end.

Tips to get the best results from Nylon 3D printing

Use a 3D printer with an enclosure

Some Nylons are prone to warping as a result of the huge change between the printing temperature and the outside environment. A heated bed can help, especially with the bottom layers, but a heated chamber or enclosure works far better at controlling warping and curling.

Optimize printing settings

If necessary, consider using brims or rafts to prevent warping, and use the correct heated bed and extruder temperatures for the best results.

We highlight the most important 3D slicer settings here.

Dry filament before use oruse an airtight filament container

Dry filament prints better quality, stronger, and more crisp surface finish parts.

In the image below, you can see two Moai, printed exactly the same with the same settings. The one on the right has just been left out for a week, to absorb some moisture from the air. From the photo the difference is subtle, but look closely and you’ll see some differences. 

Nylon filament that’s absorbed water before printing will lead to poor print finishes, or even popping in the extruder. You can see the surface of the water exposed (right) Moai is frosty, with wispy stringing on the surface. 

The dry Nylon filament on the left has a nice smooth sheen, and you can faintly see the large pattern infill inside, showing it’s slightly transparent. There’s also a lot more detail on the dry Nylon 12 figure. 

In worst case scenarios you’ll hear popping while printing, which will also give the print a very rough surface. Nylon delamination can also be caused by moisture, but is usually a symptom of not being printed hot enough. 

Rule of thumb with Nylon? Always dry it before use.

Use a 3D Printer With An All-Metal Extruder

As a durable, abrasive material, nylon takes a toll on a 3D printer, which is why an all-metal extruder capable of reaching temperatures, ideally up to 300°C, is vital for successful nylon printing.

Use a Heated Bed

Nylon’s temperature sensitivity means you’ll need to provide the requisite heat, chiefly from the extruder.

But, also by using a heated bed reaching temperatures around 100-degrees centigrade for the best results. Doing so guarantees better adhesion and reduces the likelihood of unwanted warping.

Nylon Applications

Nylon is commonly used to create durable and long-lasting plastic gears, screws, hinges, nuts and bolts and cable ties. Beyond this, custom parts that need to be strong, as well as somewhat flexible, are often best for Nylon.

Nylon is commonly used to make gears due to its low friction and good abrasion resistance, with its flexibility also making it useful to create hinges. Within 3D printing, Nylon is used in durable parts for rapid prototyping, as well as often in homemade maker projects such as on drones or RC cars.

How to Store Nylon

Nylon is extremely hygroscopic, absorbing huge amounts of water from the air, which can ruin printing quality and result in weaker, bubbly parts. To prevent this, Nylon filament should be kept in a filament container.

We recommend the following products below to keep your filament in the best condition.

• Polymaker Polybox II
• PrintDry Vacuum Sealed Filament Storage Containers

Providing you’ve stored your Nylon spool in an air tight bag with desiccant you shouldn’t need to dry your Nylon before printing. However as it is very susceptible to absorbing moisture in a short time frame – if you’re getting an uneven finish quality or even popping during printing, then you’ll need to dry it out.

Popping is caused when the moisture in the filament heats into steam quickly and expands out of the extruder. It ruins prints.

How to Dry Nylon

Nylon Filament Dryers

Filament dryers remove a significant amount of the moisture that your filament absorbs, resulting in better quality prints with better surface finish. A dryer, coupled with the appropriate storage container, can keep Nylon in great printing shape for a long time.

We recommend the following:

• PrintDry Filament Drying System

Oven

Or, you can simply place your spool in the oven at around 85°C (or about 180°F) for a good 5-6 hours. Never leave it unattended, of course. You can also ‘recharge’ your silica gel desiccants this way too.

Different Types of Nylon Filament

NylonX

NylonX is a hybrid Nylon filament with carbon fibers added to further improve toughness and improve stiffness.

Though used sometimes by committed makers, NylonX is mostly used for industrial uses such as in rapid prototyping, and it is recommended to use hardened metal nozzle as these filaments can wear down nozzles quickly.

Read more: NylonX 3D printer filament guide

NylonG

Similar to NylonX but instead of carbon fibers, NylonG is Nylon blended with glass fibers to improve strength and resistance further.

Again, this is a mainly industrial filament, though some hobbyists will find niche everyday uses.

What Temperature Should I Print Nylon Filament At?

Nylon requires a nozzle temperature of anywhere from 230°C to 290°C. The exact temperature you’ll need to set depends on the brand of Nylon filament you’re using, so be sure to check the manufacturer’s recommended settings for an exact number.

Can Water in Nylon Filament Cause Extruder Clogs?

Yes, Nylon that’s absorbed large amounts of moisture can cause clogging. As Nylon heats up, the water trapped inside effectively boils and evaporates (a queue for this is cracking, popping, and hissing from the nozzle), creating gaps in the Nylon that can lead to clogs.

Is Nylon Filament Toxic?

According to a study published in 2016, melted Nylon produced by certain brands can release small amounts of a volatile organic compound called caprolactam, which can cause short-term irritation to the eyes, nose, and throat, along with headaches and confusion when inhaled. 

The lack of more recent and in-depth studies means the true toxicity of Nylon printing isn’t currently established. To err on the side of caution, we recommend taking practical steps to minimize exposure to potentially toxic Nylon fumes, such as working in a well-ventilated area, using an enclosure with an air filter, and sticking to reputable Nylon brands.

What the difference between Nylon 6 filament and Nylon 12?

Without getting too technical, the most common grades are Nylon 6 and Nylon 6/6 (sometimes referred to as Nylon 66). A more commonly heard make is Taulman Nylon, they also produce 618 and 645 and other versions of 6.

These two grades (6 and 6/6), while offering excellent strength and hardness aren’t as thermo or chemically stable as the newer Nylon 6 vs Nylon 12. Grade 12 will hold its shape more consistently over a wider range of temperatures, but also isn’t as sensitive to water absorption as the 6’s.

All Nylon is hygroscopic, meaning it will absorb water. In fact, Nylon typically can absorb 10% of its density of water in just 24 hours! So make sure you keep it locked in an air tight bag or container with desiccant. Grade 12 absorbs water at half the rate of 6 and 6/6, so all things considered you could argue it’s more suited to 3D printing.

Whereas after printing, if your Nylon 3D filament absorbs moisture it can change the various properties of the material considerably – so Nylon 12 with its lower water absorption is favorable.

Like a lot of printing plastics, there are different grades available – it’s important to get a grade that matches (or exceeds) the task that you need it for.

• How strong is 3D printed plastic? Read here to find out.

Nylon 3D Printing FAQs

If you are interested in our other filament guides, check out:

• The best Nylon 3D printers
• The best TPU filaments (and TPE, flexibles)
• Our complete guide to ABS filament
• Our complete guide to PLA filament
• Our comparison of PLA vs ABS
• The best 3D printers buyer’s guide
• The top 10 FDM 3D printers
• Gluing 3D prints – best glue for nylon (and PLA, ABS, PETG)
• What’s the best filament to use with Ender 3?

It also predicted that the largest threat to this growth wasn’t external, instead explaining that the “high cost of the customized orthotic devices are expected to restrain the market growth.”

However, since the report’s publication, 3D printing has inserted itself further into the custom orthotics industry.

The result: cheaper, faster, and in some cases more effective orthotics treatments. So, with that in mind, here are three exciting ways that 3D printing is changing the orthotics industry.

1. 3D Printed Orthotic Insoles

Shoe insoles are perhaps the best-known type of orthotic. Over-the-counter insoles are used to treat common podiatry issues such as flat feet. However, there is a growing market for custom insoles.

Going custom ensures the most effective treatment and comfortable fit possible. Although this is overkill for most patients, going custom can be useful for patients with severe issues, or for athletes who may have mild issues but regularly put large amounts of force through their feet.  

Custom insoles are usually produced with a plaster impression of the patient’s feet. This is used to hand-make the required insole, ensuring that it meets the patient’s prescription, and fits perfectly.

Unfortunately, custom insoles are expensive, making them inaccessible for some patients. A pair of over-the-counter insoles rarely cost more than $50, whilst custom pairs can run from $200-$800, with additional costs for consultations and medical fees.

SLS 3D Printing of Insoles

Although not every podiatrist will have them available, 3D printed insoles have grown in both popularity and availability. 

Usually, the medical assessment stage is identical, with dimensions of the patient’s feet taken with a 3D scanner or manually. However, instead of the insole being hand-made, it is uploaded onto 3D sculpting software before being 3D printed.

The resulting insoles perform indiscernibly from hand-made ones. To achieve this, most manufacturers use Selective Laser Sintering instead of FDM machines.

When describing their process, Phits, a manufacturer, explained that:

“[FDM was] completely inadequate for producing insoles because it is too slow, lacks accuracy, and most of all it doesn’t provide the necessary strength… We use a much more advanced technology called Selective Laser Sintering. During this process, a very fine powder (we use PA or Nylon) is hardened and bonded together layer by layer. The result is a very light, very strong final product.”

This sentiment isn’t just held by the manufacturers, with medical professionals also agreeing that SLS is really the only effective way to 3D print orthotic insoles.

Mark Ireland is a practicing podiatrist with his own Australian-based clinic. Whilst experimenting with 3D printing custom orthotics, he explained that:

“we quickly realized the FDM parts did not possess the mechanical strength we required from our products…  We also trialed SLA but unfortunately faced the same outcome… Our parts need to have a high degree of accuracy and can involve complex shapes… They also need to have some flexibility without shattering… Furthermore, a low moisture absorption is also key due to the environment such orthoses are commonly used in. According to Mark, the selective laser sintering process is one of the few additive technologies that could meet these demands.”

Replacing the conventional method?

The efficiency of 3D printing allows patients to receive their insoles faster. Additionally, manufacturers are able to produce their orthotics with the same level of accuracy, but with less material waste and working hours.

Unfortunately, these savings haven’t made 3D printed insoles significantly cheaper. As an example, the Blackberry Clinic in the UK charges £3260 for a pair of Phits orthotics.

Despite being 3D printed, this pricing matches up to be perfectly average for the custom orthotic insoles market.

Exactly why the improved production process hasn’t also reduced costs isn’t clear, but the future of 3D printed insoles remains promising. Currently, there doesn’t seem to be any significant obstacles against its continued use, with the technology poised to entirely replace the conventional method in the near future. 

2. 3D Printed orthotic casts

3D printed orthotic casts are perhaps the most visibly striking item on our list. But they’re not all glitz and glamor, with their design offering significant advantages over their plaster counterparts in almost every way.

When someone fractures a bone, it must be immobilized to ensure that it heals in the correct position. Some patients will be given a temporary splint at the site of their accident, but almost all patients will need to visit the ER as soon as possible to get a cast fitted.

Read more: our feature story on 3D printed casts

Provided that surgery isn’t required, the patient will be fitted with a plaster cast at the ER. Interestingly, the nature of treating fractures means that 3D printed casts are unlikely to ever replace this step. Fractures are medical emergencies and notoriously painful. If left untreated for even a day, the potentially misplaced and sharp bone can cause further injury, and even life-threatening internal bleeding.

As plaster can be applied immediately, it is perfectly suited to deal with this emergency – whereas a 3D printed cast would require hours to scan, design and finally print. During this time, the patient’s fracture would be left untreated.

However, after their initial cast, patients can almost always expect to get additional casts made, including 3D printed ones.

Replacement 3D Printed Casts

As the fracture heals, their doctors will have to regularly cut off their casts and make new ones. This is done to visually check on the fracture, ensuring that it’s free of infection and is healing properly.

Additionally, immobilized limbs will always become smaller over time, requiring new smaller casts to be made. This is because the swelling caused by the injury reduces over time, and because of the unused limb’s muscle atrophy.

Describing the process, Dr. Arun Sayal of the North York General Hospital in Toronto explained that:

“If the fracture starts to heal normally, you might be moved into a fiberglass cast… It’s a little harder to mold fiberglass, so often the emergency department will use plaster.”

These synthetic casts are so popular because they’re waterproof, allowing the patient to bathe normally.

But what about that 3D printed option?

Active Armor Casts 

Active Armor offers a range of custom 3D printed casts. As a medical device, a doctor’s prescription and agreeable insurance is needed to begin treatment.

Like all rigid casts, Active Armor cannot be used early in treatment. Instead, they are usually fitted once most of the patient’s swelling has gone. Although muscle atrophy will continue, it usually isn’t enough to make these rigid casts ineffective.

The process begins with the removal of the plaster cast and a scan of the injured limb. The doctor will verify the scan with a physical measurement, then the scan will be sent to a printer. The patient will get another plaster cast in the interim.

Once the manufacturer has printed and shipped the cast, it will be attached for the first time by the doctor, where they will do a final check to ensure that it has an effective and snug fit.

These 3D printed casts are significantly more comfortable than plaster ones. Their design leaves plenty of skin exposed. This is useful for doctors to observe the fracture healing, and also allows the patient to actually scratch their itchy skin. This also avoids the notorious smell that can arise from wearing waterproof casts for too long.

Read more: our feature story on 3D printing in medical

Additionally, 3D printed casts can be completely removed by the patient whenever they wish. In practice, there is little reason to do this whilst they are nursing a serious injury.

However, it does allow for more flexibility with washing, massaging muscles, cleaning the inside of their cast, and just allowing their skin to air.

Limb Shrinkage?

3D printed casts are expensive, or are at least far more expensive than the comparatively disposable price of plaster casts. This becomes an issue when reminded that muscle atrophy will continue as the fracture heals.

Unlike plaster casts, 3D printed casts cannot be cheaply cut off and remolded. To combat this, most patients are advised to apply tape to the inside of their cast whenever an area becomes loose.

But aside from this, they’ll just have to hope that their fracture heals before their injured limb shrinks too much.  

3. HeadStart Medical and Orthotic helmets

Despite looking like toddler-sized crash helmets, these are actually specialized orthotics.

Plagiocephaly, also known as “flat head syndrome,” occurs in about 1 in 5 infants.  The condition is caused by infants laying or sleep in one position for too long, causing their soft skulls to become misshapen. This condition usually resolves itself over time, however parents may decide to explore orthotic treatment.

An orthotic plagiocephaly helmet, similar to oral braces, gently forces the infant’s head into a symmetrical shape, ensuring that it fuses correctly.

Conventionally, these helmets are all custom-made using measurements of the baby’s head.

However, 3D printing the helmets makes the production process faster and cheaper – but most importantly, 3D printing results in much lighter helmets. This reduced weight allows treatment to begin earlier, as the children’s head and neck don’t need to be as strong yet. 

Starting earlier allows the treatment to be more effective, potentially reducing the impact of Plagiocephaly on an international scale.

However, despite the merits on display here, the treatment itself has come under criticism.    

A Treatment Under Fire

The process can be invasive, with babies younger than six months having to wear the helmets for 23 hours every day. Additionally, as the babies grow, they’ll require regular doctor’s visits to shave down the orthotic. Predictably, this growth and constant rubbing usually result in moderate to severe rashes.

But perhaps the most damning criticism comes from the fact that it is unclear whether orthotic helmets actually work!

However, there is no clear government-led evidence suggesting that these helmets correct Plagiocephaly.

With the treatment usually costing over $1000 for the initial helmet, and then more for follow-up consultations, some may see it as a large investment for a condition that may resolve itself over time.

And not without cause. With the rapidly advancing and naturally competitive industry of military-technology, these innovations are already showing signs of being on the horizon.

However, we’re still a way off from anything out of science-fiction. Instead, and much like many large manufacturers, most international militaries are currently experimenting with 3D printing as a way to improve the cost and efficiency of manufacturing equipment and buildings.

But that doesn’t mean that the industry is lacking in exciting projects. Indeed, military operations naturally demand a high degree of reliability and effectiveness from their equipment.

This means that militaries are generally more willing to invest time and money into 3D printing research than civilian sectors.

So, with that in mind, here are four ways that the military is using 3D printing today.

3D Printing and Military Logistics – The British Army

A common issue for foreign military deployments is that of supply. Whenever a deployment is stationed abroad and cannot supply itself locally, then it must rely on logistics from home.

This is especially true for deployments in hostile environments, or combat operations, where sourcing supplies locally presents an additional risk.

This is hardly a new issue, with foreign invasions from antiquity facing the same problem. Today, most modern militaries possess large and effective combat logistics networks to solve this very issue.

But that is just half of the problem. The other issue with supplying an army from home, is that it has always been incredibly expensive.

Although it’s not promising to remove the issue, the British Army has been experimenting with 3D printing as a way to reduce this financial impact.

The British Army in South Sudan

The British army is currently deployed alongside a UN peacekeeping operation in South Sudan.  Speaking about the situation in 2018, a spokesperson for the Royal Engineers explained that:

“engineering in South Sudan has faced many problems. A stretched and fragile logistical supply route has resulted in difficulties resourcing components. However, we have resolved some of these issues through the use of a 3D printer. This is the first time this technology has been used by UK land forces deployed on operations. With a production time of often less than 12 hours, resources which would normally take weeks to be shipped or flown into country can now be printed on demand with significantly reduced costs.”

During the deployment, a UN hospital was to be erected in the city of Bentiu:

“In order to complete construction we are using the 3D printer to manufacture essential small parts, the lack of which was previously hindering the progress of the build.”

Although perhaps not the most exciting use of 3D printing on this list, this example does demonstrate the growing use of the technology within the armed forces, as well as how it is tangibly benefitting operations today.

The 3D printed “Submarine” – US Navy

Moving onto what is perhaps a more visually striking project, let’s talk about the US Navy’s 3D printed submersible.

Navy SEALS (Sea, Air, and Land) are the world-renowned special operations soldiers of the US Navy. To achieve the “sea” component of their designation, they routinely utilize specialized submersible vehicles to deploy on operations.

Currently, this is done with the SDV (SEAL delivery vehicle) submersible. These submersibles can covertly deploy soldiers to both land and sea targets. The current model, the Mark 8 SDV, has been in operational use since 1983.

However, like a lot of specialized military hardware, production of these SDVs is often takes a lot of time and money.  The US Department of Energy states that “the cost of a traditional hull ranges from $600,000 to $800,000, and typically takes 3-5 months to manufacture.”

This price tag skyrockets when considering additional costs; technical and logistical support, engineering, and training for example. Indeed, when the UK was approved to purchase three vehicles in 2018, the official estimated program cost came to $90 million!

So, what happens to that number when you 3D print the SDVs instead?

The 3D Printed Seal Delivery Vehicle

In 2017 the Oak Ridge National Laboratory partnered with the US Navy to 3D print an SDV hull. Using large-format 3D printers, they created a concept hull out of six carbon-fiber composite sections.

This concept became the first 3D printed submersible hull ever produced by a world military. But perhaps the most notable finding from this prototype was its efficiency. The hull took only weeks to print, rather than months, and was 90% cheaper to produce.

This efficiency also opens up more operational uses for the vehicles. Could 3D printed SDVs be tailor-made for each operation? Could they even be treated as disposable insertion vehicles? 

These questions were tangible enough for the Navy to approve the project for further testing, with the initial aim being that fleet-capable prototypes could be introduced as early as 2019… This may have been optimistic however, as no significant updates on the project have been released since.

Instead, the US Navy have revealed that the Mark 8 SDV will be replaced by a newer non-3D printed model, the SWCS (Shallow Water Combat Submersible).

Read more: our feature story on 3D printed boats

So, It’s Not a Submarine?

Interestingly, and as an aside, despite being commonly referred to as submarines because of their appearance, this is not technically true. As the soldiers are exposed to the water whilst using their SDVs, they are technically only “swimmer delivery vehicles,” essentially beefed up and militarized underwater scooters.

The Future of the 3D Printed Submarine?

With the potential benefits it highlighted, it’s unlikely that the 3D printed submersible project has been entirely abandoned.

However, with the US committing $38.8 million to its SWCS contract, it’s also unlikely that they’ll be replaced any time soon.

So, although it’s unlikely we’ll see fully 3D printed military submarines in operation any time soon, it is now at least both a proven and desirable concept.

3D Printed Covid Swabs For The Swiss Army

Let’s look away from 3D printing’s combat potential for a moment and consider what the technology can bring to deployments on home soil. With a recent example of pushing boundaries coming from the Swiss Army’s use of 3D printing during the Covid-19 pandemic.

During the pandemic’s height in 2020, the world experienced an international shortage of Covid test kits, specifically, the swabs. With so many countries racing to test their populations, demand for the swabs quickly outpaced manufacture.

Switzerland, concerned by the shortage, and the prospect on being totally reliant on international supply lines, turned to its Army to develop an in-house solution.

Designing the Swabs

However, this wouldn’t be a simple case of 3D printing an existing design. Medical swabs of this type, (nasopharyngeal swabs) need to be long, strong, flexible, and feature a bristled section, with an intentionally weak section that allows the bristled end to break off.

Whilst converting all these attributes to a 3D printable medium was certainly possible, it would be quite the undertaking to create swabs that were also mass-producible, and able to stand up to the scrutiny of clinical testing.

To achieve this, the Surgeon General of the Swiss Armed forces partnered with medical technology company GobiX GmbH, creating a multi-disciplined team to develop a new swab design.

The team experimented with 3D printing the swabs. They used non-toxic resin and had to ensure that the swabs could survive an autoclave (a sterilization machine that subjects the swabs to lots of heat and pressure).

The team began testing with a selection of Formlabs resin 3D printers, specifically the Form 2 and 3. They quickly found success, with 3D printing allowing them to produce swabs quickly.

Indeed, similar testing in Spain using the same 3D printers were able to print 650 swabs every 24 hours.

Soon after Switzerland’s design was completed, the swabs also passed their clinical testing, becoming CE-Certified and fit for medical distribution.

Once distribution began nationwide, Switzerland became one of the first European countries able to fill their own demand for Covid swabs independently.

The Concrete Barracks Race – US Armed Forces

Over the past 5 years the US military has been experimenting with 3D printing concrete as a way to construct buildings rapidly and economically.

In 2017 the Army constructed a 3D printed B-Hut (type of barracks) in a Champaign Illinois research laboratory. The project demonstrated the potential efficiency of the technology, with each hut using half the shipped materials and 62% less manpower than the conventional plywood design.

In 2018, the Marine Corps printed another prototype barracks in the same Illinois facility. At the time it became the “largest continuous 3D concrete print of a building in the western hemisphere.”

Although the building never became operational, the Marine Corps still has faith in the merits of continued research.

Speaking about the project, Captain Matthew Friedell stated that:

“traditionally we build houses, schools, and homes where a natural disaster has happened… If we can just set up a machine, we can guarantee quality, consistency, and ideally we can just leave the machine there to start rebuilding those communities.”  

Despite their strides however, neither force would be the first to complete and use a functional 3D printed barracks. Both would be beaten to the punch by the Texas Military Department.

Everything’s Bigger in Texas

Rather than being controlled by the national government, the Texas Military Department serves as an armed force of the Texas government itself. As such, its Adjutant General is even appointed by and reports to the Governor of Texas.

Their involvement with 3D printing came when they partnered with construction company ICON to build a new and innovative barracks for one of their military training centers. 

Located in the Swift Training Centre in Bastrop Texas, the building became the largest 3D printed structure in North America.

With the completed project only being unveiled this month, this barracks is not only the newest project on this list, but it’s also currently the first and only 3D printed barracks currently in operation.

Evan Loomis, the CEO of ICON, explained how the structure was bult. “We have a foundation, the printer shows up, and it begins printing almost like a layer of cake…  And so, you print up to the very top of the wall, and then you put on the roof in the traditional way.  And you’re able to do it with just incredible speed.”

In this way, the Texas Military Department were able to take what had had up until now been prototypes and exciting concepts, and actually put them to use for the first time.

Being such a new development, it’s unclear how the soldiers using this facility feel it compares to a traditional barracks, but it still serves as an exciting prospect for the technology’s continued use. 

So, if these developments are meant to be just around the corner, then how is 3D being used in the industry now?

The Oil and Gas Industry 

The oil and gas industries are perhaps best known for the massive scale of their engineering, both in terms of size and cost. Power plants, drilling operations, and offshore oil rigs represent enormous amounts of money, assets, and people, to both manage and keep safe.

Adding to this, the industry can be volatile. Oil is a highly political and controversial commodity – many want to see it replaced by greener and more environmentally friendly options – and its price can fluctuate unpredictably due to international policies.

More relevant for us, however, are issues that arise from these power stations and oil rigs themselves. If anything goes wrong, or production is slowed or halted in any of these installations, then the downtime cost could hurt the company’s wallet dearly.

Because of this, any innovation that can improve reliability and safety is given significant amounts of research and attention here. To this end, it’s unsurprising that 3D printing has continued to see more and more integration across the oil and gas industry. 

And the implications here aren’t subtle. As you’re about to see, 3D printing could radically change and improve upon many of the ways this industry does business.

1. Spare and Repairs

Using 3D printing to produce spare parts is hardly new. One of the first things most industries will experiment with is whether existing parts can be produced more efficiently with 3D printing. However, in the case of oil and gas, it’s worth explaining just how important it is to be well stocked with spare parts.

Running Costs

Large energy installations are incredibly expensive. Not only in terms of the cost of building, but also just the cost of operation.

For example, the industry publication “Reservoir Exploration and Appraisal 2013,” found that an oil drilling rig in the Gulf of Mexico can cost up to $800,000 to operate per day and take up to 150 days to fully complete excavate a well.

And this is just for an exploratory well. Additional installations and operations are needed to actually extract the oil, assuming that is, that the exploratory well actually finds any.

So, any malfunction in an installation, even for a day, can be incredibly expensive. This is amplified if the delay also impedes the rest of the extraction process.

Remoteness

Additionally, oil and gas installations commonly suffer from being installed in remote locations. Obviously, off-shore facilities are understandably remote, but even on-shore installations can be affected. Indeed, many energy-producing facilities are purposely built apart from urban or residential areas.

This remoteness means that even with good supply networks, getting equipment to sites can be slow. This is a problem considering that if a vital component fails, and spares aren’t on hand, then that facility will remain offline and generating costs until a replacement arrives.

The traditional method

The solution to this would seemingly be to just ensure that each facility is well stocked with spare parts, however that strategy comes with its own problems too, problems that 3D printing has offered a solution to. But before introducing the 3D printed method, let’s explore the problems it’s going to be solving.

In terms of cost, having a large collection of spare parts is useful, but expensive. It is also a very physically expensive solution. A large amount of space has to be reserved for storing spare parts that may never be needed. 

Additionally, there remains the problem of moving these parts to where they are needed. Unless a facility happens to have a part on hand, then even if their company owns a replacement, it still needs to be moved to that location. And again, during this downtime the installation will be costing money.

3D Printing Spare Parts

What 3D printing offers is the ability to produce these components on demand. Using industrial 3D printers and metal 3D printing techniques such as Direct Metal Laser Sintering (DMLS) means that many installation components can be replicated. 

In this way both issues are mitigated. Spares won’t need to be hoarded, and printing on-location means that parts simply won’t need to travel. Although not all components can currently be 3D printed, the list of available parts continues to grow.

Shell in Nigeria

An example of this approach in action came during Shell’s offshore operations in Nigeria. On their website, the energy company explained that a polymer seal covering on a mooring buoy needed to be replaced. However, the part was simply no longer in production.

Additionally, simply replacing the entire unit wasn’t an option either. The seal itself was part of a larger assembly, and would require complex, dangerous, and expensive heavy lifting to entirely replace.

So, instead, they tried a new approach. They explained that “the Nigerian team modelled the component with a 3D scanner from a local supplier… 3D printing reduced the final cost of the maintenance by 90% compared to a conventional replacement and it took merely 2 weeks to produce the parts.”

Could there be a more explicit case for 3D printing your spare parts on demand? But we must move on. So, moving away from simply recreating existing components, what else has 3D printing done for the industry?

2. Next Generation of Scale Models

Rapid prototyping is again another very common application of 3D printing, with the technology routinely used in the research and development process of many large industries. However, here, the process has also established itself as a way of significantly improving safety.

Let’s use miniaturized prototype models as an example. Although an increasingly common technique, the scale and complexity of oil and gas projects makes these 3D printed models especially valuable. Considering how expensive these installations are, and how dangerous construction accidents can be, it’s worth ensuring that they’re built right first time.

Read more: best 3D printers for miniatures

Whilst documenting the assembly of another buoy installation, Shell released a video discussing the benefits of these 3D printed models over conventional alternatives.

Traditionally, a 2D drawing was used to describe the installation. However, with the buoy being comprised of over 222 heavy foam blocks that had to be assembled in a specific sequence, there was perhaps room for an improved method.

“What we have done is we’ve actually used a 3D printer, and we created the model in 3D of the structure, and then a model of all 222 components of the foam blocks, so that we could then plan it, and make sure the sequence was right to ensure that we did it safely… Having a model like this in the design process really bridges the gap between design and fabrication. It’s already added value in understanding whether the dimensions are correct, and whether we have clashes or not. It’s a great tool to be able to plan the work, execute it, and anticipate the problems, and come up with a workaround before the process even starts.”

3. Novel Production

So far, we’ve seen how 3D printing is being used to support existing processes. But an emerging use of the technology is in novel production.

Rather than simply replicating a component with a 3D printer, Novel design studies instead redesign components to make them more effective. This practice is common within aerospace, where parts are continually redesigned using 3D printers in an attempt to make them lighter and stronger.

Although the use of 3D printing in these studies is not universal, the technology has already replaced and improved several oil and gas installation components.  

APS Technology & EOS

One such tale of success came in 2018 with electromechanical manufacturer APS technology.

One of the products offered by APS are well drillers. These machines are used to cut boreholes through miles of rock, to eventually create oil wells. The machines are complex, with various systems installed to allow the drills to be literally steered onto the best path through the rock. 

Additionally, the nature of their work means that they must withstand significant abuse. In their report, APS revealed that:

“aside from the obvious difficulties involved in cutting rock hundreds of feet under the earth, the pressurized fluid used to cool the drill head and flush away cuttings is highly abrasive, and rushes past very fast. This can wreak havoc not only on the down-hole systems, but also on many other types of drilling equipment, even destroying super tough Inconel and 17-4 stainless steel.”

Seeing these challenges as areas to improve in their design, APS began developing various ways of reducing the wear on their products. This prompted their experimentation with using 3D printing to upgrade their components.

The 3D Printed Drill

APS partnered with industrial 3D printing company EOS, where they used their DMLS 3D printers to print various components out of durable metal powders. As these new components were also made of stainless steel or Inconel, they are just as durable as conventionally built ones.

But by using 3D printing, APS was able to “build long-lasting parts in a short space of time… Create complex geometries that could not previously be manufactured,” and “parts that are far more space-efficient than their traditionally machined counterparts.”

So, although these new 3D printed components failed to be significantly more durable, they didn’t need to be. Instead, they were cheaper, simpler to assemble, and as we covered in an earlier point, could simply be re-printed and replaced on demand once worn out. 

APS released what they felt were the results of their collaboration:

“By using EOS technology, APS has reduced the part count in a drilling assembly from four separate components to just one. DMLS is also creating cost savings in the company’s extensive machine shop, where jigs and fixtures that once took days or even weeks to machine can now be printed, unattended, overnight. Aside from the advantages APS has seen in part-count reduction and novel component shapes, designers are finding that product development cycles are substantially shorter.”

The Future of 3D Printing Within Oil and Gas

Seemingly, the industry seems to be mostly experimenting with how 3D printing can make their installations more autonomous. This makes sense too, after all, having to support remote facilities has been an unavoidable hurdle for the industry. Until now at least.

Using 3D printing to produce spare parts and develop new prototypes is helpful. But what about the next step for novel designs? What happens when instead of some components being made on-demand, all of them were?

Moving into speculation, it’s feasible that the continued use of 3D printing could lead to entirely autonomous facilities. Imagine a system where instead of relying on extensive supply lines, each installation is instead only supplied with raw materials, which it then uses to 3D print its own components on-demand. 

Rather than expensive and helicopter-reliant oil rigs, could the future see fleets of giant self-sustaining oil extracting robots? 

Well, perhaps that is going too far. But what is certain is that the immediate future is likely to see 3D printing become the dominant way new novel designs and components are produced across the industry. 

Why? Here are some key stats:

• The 3D printing market is predicted to grow 30% per year to 2026.
• There are over 422,000 working 3D printers in the USA.
• The USA, UK, France, Germany & China are all heavily adopting 3D printing.

Continuing to explode in popularity for both hobbyists and industrial uses, budding entrepreneurs are looking for opportunities to start a 3D printing business. But what opportunities are there?

Honestly, there are so many industries being shaken up by 3D printing — medical, hearing aids, dental, metal part production, spacecraft, even food — that listing every potential use would take too long.

Some have already taken areas of 3D printing and made themselves synonymous with the sector. Wiivv and 3D printed custom sandals, Relativity Space and 3D printed rockets, and Sonova and 3D printed hearing aids. What will your 3D printing business be known for?

This article focuses on how to start a 3D printing business, which 3D printing businesses you could start, and what you need to be able to start and be successful in the 3D printing industry.

How to start a 3D printing business

Naturally, to start a 3D printing business you need to know everything there is to know about 3D printing. You’ll need to know your 3D printer — and the technology that powers it — in and out. 

• You can view all our 3D printing technologies guides here

Write your 3D printing business plan

Now you need to create a business plan. Though you feel you already know exactly what you need to do, it’s always best to get your thoughts down in writing, as well as any predictions around revenues, sales, and the amount you’re prepared to invest.

When writing this, think of what you will need to spend money on: potentially renting a location, buying new equipment, hiring or training people — and do you have any guaranteed income you can factor in, or are you starting from zero?

It’s very likely your 3D printing business plan will change dramatically as your business adapts and changes — and that’s fine! — but a business plan will get your future and present ideas down on paper. If you’re planning on lending money from a bank or other institution, a business plan is crucial.

Buying your equipment

If you haven’t chosen which 3D printer (or 3D printers if you’re planning on multiple), you’ll need to choose carefully based on what you plan to print, or what services you plan on offering. Prototypes are often made using SLS 3D printers, as well as MJF, PolyJet, FDM, and more.

For deciding which to buy, you can check out our guide to every type of 3D printer.

If you know what type of 3D printer you’re planning on using, but aren’t sure on which printer, you can check out our buyer’s guides:

• Our buyer’s guide for the best FDM 3D printers
• Buyer’s guide for the best resin 3D printers
• The best SLS 3D printers
• Our metal 3D printer buyer’s guide
• The best 3D printers for small businesses

3D printers don’t run themselves, so you’ll need to make sure you have the right software, including a 3D slicer such as Cura, and if you’re designing your own models, a 3D modeling software tool. If you’re managing multiple 3D printers, you may want to invest in software to manage them more easily.

For FDM 3D printing you’ll need a steady supply of filament in every material and color range you plan to offer. For more industrial printing you may want to offer Polycarbonate, HIPS, PEEK, Nylon and ASA, but for more standard jobs you may just need PETG, ABS and PLA. The same goes for resins for resin 3D printing for any planned uses, including castable for jewelry molds, and any powders for SLS.

Running costs & marketing costs

As well as this, you’ll need to factor in costs for replacing any parts of your 3D printer that wear out, such as nozzles, resin vats and so on. Electricity isn’t free, but shouldn’t be a major cost. 

If you’re planning on launching your own website or webstore, you’ll need to decide how you’ll accept payments, which cart software to use such as Shopify, or Woocommerce on WordPress, and which hosting provider to use.

For marketing, you can opt for social media ads across Facebook, Instagram, or PPC ads on Google for a quick buzz. You can also try to capture people’s attention through generally interesting social media content, such as showing your factory in action, some of the cool things you’ve 3D printed, or vlogging yourself at work. For industrial B2B clients, LinkedIn and direct outreach may be better options.

Where to sell your products

If you’re planning to sell your models on existing platforms like Etsy, Amazon or eBay, you’ll need to decide your plans for those. Or, you may decide to niche down and sell on specialized 3D model platforms. If you’re planning on acting as a service, signing up to Treatstock or Makexyz can save you marketing time and pair you directly with clients.

3D Printing Business Ideas: Which 3D printing business should I start?

A true visionary may want to create an entirely new category, like 3D printed rockets, pizza or hearing aids. Nevertheless, here are some tried and tested existing 3D printing business models:

Printing on demand

Do you already own a 3D printer? This is the easiest way to make money from 3D printing.

The business model is simple: you offer to print someone else’s 3D file. The only problem with this 3D printing business plan is that it’s already getting quite competitive, and your service is easily seen as a commodity. Fortunately, we’ve listed some tips for making it in printing on demand.

How?

Sign up on one of the major 3D printing service marketplaces, or sell your service to individual companies outside of a marketplace.

1. Establish yourself in a niche market – B2C

Instead of trying to please everyone, you need to find a tribe of loyal customers who see you as their trusted vendor. To find your ideal niche, do some market research by Googling your market, checking sites like Quora and Reddit, and reading blog posts.

Start on a marketplace and then expand beyond it when you have some experience and know which customers you want to attract.

Many creatives, nerds and designers just want their design, such as favorite D&D model or character, in front of them, right now — and they don’t want to buy an entire 3D printer just to print it. Instead, they’ll find someone to do the odd job for them here and there.

Starting a 3D printing business printing consumer models requires less start-up investment, less expensive filaments or resins, and perhaps slightly lower accuracy and precision requirements. More affordable desktop 3D printers will work here, so you could potentially get started as a 3D printing business for just a few hundred dollars with an Ender 3 or Prusa 3D printer.

That isn’t to say there aren’t jobs for individuals that require more industrial 3D printers. Classic car fans looking to get a car part 3D printed will require perfect accuracy and a tough material used, with the crisp surface finish only accessible on higher end machines. But for most consumer jobs, less professional 3D printers should suffice.

There are even marketplaces for local 3D printer service businesses that’ll help you find customers. Treatstock, for example, puts you in contact instantly with thousands of local 3D printer businesses to have your parts printed for you in a variety of different materials.

By becoming a vendor, you potentially skip the expensive marketing costs associated with drumming up business at the beginning of your 3D printing business journey. There are other similar sites to Treatstock like makexyz, but 3D Hubs no longer allow individuals to sign up and offer their printing services.

2. Offer your service to B2B customers

Alternatively, you can offer your services directly to B2B customers. Typically, these customers tend to have deeper pockets, a more consistent need for 3D printing services, and they tend to place larger orders.

Start on a marketplace and as you grow, transition to your own brand or site. A successful business that uses this business model is Stratasys, a company that’s active in the engineering, manufacturing, production, and prototyping industries.

Again you’ll want to establish a niche, I see far too many home-based 3D printing businesses try to appeal to everyone doing everything just to make money 3D printing. To really get penetration in the market in a sea of ‘me too’ businesses and franchises -you’ve got to target, accurately.

In B2B — business to business — 3D printing businesses make prototypes and other parts for companies that want to test them. This could be for shape and aesthetics, or functional testing based on how it holds up in certain situations.

Common client needs include architectural and interior design models (a huge advantage if you can print multiple colors, such as by using a Palette), sunglasses and other fashion prototypes, engineering prototypes, resin, ceramic or metal prototypes for various industries, and medical parts, including orthotics, prosthetics and medical implants.

Your ability to run this kind of 3D printing business really depends on the 3D printers you have. With massively growing demand for metal 3D printing — predicted to grow to a $11 billion industry by 2024 — metal additive manufacturing for automotive, space, medical and other uses is a great area to launch.

However, metal 3D printers cost hundreds of thousands of dollars in most cases, so this is not a venture for anyone looking to get in cheap and make some beer money.

Standard affordable 3D printers may not offer the level of precision companies expect when they hire your 3D printing business to print parts and prototypes for them. And many companies may be looking for more expensive types of 3D printing for their parts, such as SLS 3D printers or even PolyJet.

Overall, if you’re planning on starting a B2B 3D printing business acting as a 3D printing services for industrial clients, you’ll probably need a large investment to start with. For marketing, social media and more hobbyist forms of marketing won’t work as well, so you’ll need to either harness PPC ads or grow your network within the industry to find contacts looking to get manufacturing done. But, with this big risk comes the potential for big reward.

Open up your own 3D printing e-commerce store

[Source: AudioQuest]

3D printing is already disrupting the manufacturing industry. That’s why now is the time to set up an e-commerce shop where you sell products that you design and print. 3D printing makes the whole process flexible and cheap. If you’re wanting to know how to make money with a 3D printer, this is one of our favorite 3D printing startup ideas. 

How?

Before actually going all-in starting a 3d printer business, you could validate your idea by using crowdfunding sites like Kickstarter and Indiegogo. You can sell your products by building a shop on Shopify and on Amazon, NotOnTheHighStreet.com and Etsy.

1. Jewelry, home furnishing, decorations and fashion

The design industry is the perfect industry if you want to open an e-commerce shop. There are lots of options here; jewelry, home furnishing, decorations and fashion. If you want to start small, Etsy is the perfect platform, because its customers crave individualized design. NomaniFOLD sells 3D printed jewelry and is a pioneer in this industry.

2. Monthly subscription box

Monthly subscription boxes are insanely popular. Some of them are something of a trend, but others are a convenient way for people to get products delivered to them. But what if you could use this idea to 3D print monthly items that people need and want as a recurring service? For example, deliver toys or pet or baby products on a monthly basis.

3. Events  

The event industry is massive. There’s everything from weddings, birthdays, graduation parties to company events and conferences. Tap into this market by printing event decorations and other products.

4. Other products

With the ideas above, we’re just scratching the surface. There are so many 3D printing business opportunities you can explore!

Customized products

[Source: Open Bionics]

3D printing is changing the way we do business. No wonder; one of the main advantages of 3D printing is that it enables us to mass-customize products. Why not start a shop that’s all about customization? The possibilities for making money with 3D printing business opportunities are endless and this is an area with significant growth potential.

How?

Use Kickstarter, Indiegogo, Etsy, Amazon, Ebay and Shopify to sell items.

You’ll need to price your models based on the amount of filament or resin they use, as well as the time value of your 3D printer’s time. In addition, since you’ve created real tangible models, posting them to your customers will cost money, too. This can vary wildly depending on whether your customer is in your city, or if they’re half way across the globe.

It’s safest to use your own files, as many models from free STL file sites may not authorize you to commercialize them. If you want to add even more value, you could even paint your models, making them stand out and letting you charge higher prices.

You’ll need to think about marketing for this type of 3D printing business. People are unlikely to just find your 3D printing shop unless you’re savvy about getting your name out there: either on social media, or by paid ads such as PPC on Google or Facebook ads. You’ll need to continually optimize any paid ads to make sure you’re selling enough products to make the ads profitable, and keep a beady eye on the data.

If successful however, it’s one of the most rewarding and independent ways to make it as a 3D printing business.

1. Customized products  

There are no limitations here… mobile cases and covers, special parts that enable you to use items in different ways (e.g. toys), jewelry and so forth. For example, check out Lantos Technologies, a company that prints customized in-ear products.

These 3D printed toys and similar models are always popular, and there will always be a demand for 3D character prints of peoples’ favorite video game or movie characters, musicians, actors and more. Cosplayers are always looking for new elements to use, too.

If you’re a good 3D designer — and if you want to learn, check out our ranking of the best free 3D modeling software tools for beginners — you can design your own creations harnessing your boundless creativity and signature style, or just create 3D models based on real people or things. You can then either sell these models and send them fully printed, or sell the STL file and let them print their own.

2. Customized collectibles and figures

Fans LOVE customized collectibles and figures of their favorite athletes, artists and gamer avatars. Just make sure to check all licenses if you want to use this for your business. On the other hand, there’s a market for customized figures of people themselves, e.g. a figure of someone posing in his or her sports gear or their own gamer avatar.

For example, CoKreeate is a company that has successfully established itself in this market. Want to learn more about how to set up your own shop? Here’s a story that might inspire you.

Selling small items like this could be much easier if you’re wanting to set up a home-based 3D printing business. Lower storage and shipping costs for your home-factory business.

Read more: the best 3D printers for D&D miniatures

3. Prosthetics

Prosthetics are expensive and difficult to manufacture. 3D printing is solving several problems in this industry. It makes prosthetics better, more customized and more affordable. Additionally, 3D printing is making it easier to manufacture wheelchairs and other support tools. Some companies that are producing prosthetics and support tools are e-Nable and Open Bionics.

Read more: our feature story on 3D printed prosthetics

4. Customized clothes

Typically, clothes are a mass market product. When you walk down the street, you’ll probably meet someone wearing the same item from the same chain. But thanks to 3D printing, it doesn’t have to be this way. 3D printing makes it easy to customize clothing. For example, a popular item that could be 3D printed and mass-customized are clog like foam shoes. One of the advantages of these shoes is that the foam forms itself to your feet. 3D printing enables you to improve this product.

Want to check out some successful companies in this space? Kinematics dress and Continuum Fashion are some of the companies that are already selling customized clothes and fashion related accessories. 

Read more: how 3D printed clothing is changing the world

Read more: 3D printed fashion: the latest trend

5. Customized sports and hobby products

People spend a lot of money on sports and hobbies, and this is the perfect market for customized items. For example, you could sell customized tennis racket covers to teams or customized fishing and golfing gear.

Read more: our feature story on 3D printed shoes and sneakers

6. Customized gifts

The best gifts are personal. The problem is that most customized gifts are expensive because they cost so much to manufacture. That’s why 3D printed customized gifts are the best choice; 3D printed customized gifts are affordable and flexible to print.

Read more: 3D printed gifts you can download and print today

7. 3D printed photographs  

People love storing memories of their loved ones. A great idea for a 3D printing business is to create 3D printed family photographs. Many would love the possibility to store a model of their child, grandparent, pet or even a model of their house.

8. Customized baby products

Naturally, most parents want the best for their babies and babies need different tools that fit them. By starting a business that customizes baby products, you tap into this lucrative market. Some of the companies that have noticed this are Spuni, a company that prints spoons, and Technologia Humana 3D, a company that prints 3D models of fetuses.

9. Customized B2B products

Not all customized products are in the B2C space. Businesses want to stand out from their competition. You could 3D print customized furniture, signature decoration or other products and sell them to companies.

If you’ve got an eye for designs that’ll sell well online, such as miniatures, tabletop models and D&D-esque designs, this might be the route for you. 

Become a 3D printer reseller and expert

Most cheap 3D printers are bought from Amazon. They come with instructions to get you going, and normally have some form of tech support if you run into serious problems. 

However, with more complex professional and industrial 3D printers, installation, training and ongoing support may be required.

Resellers sell printers from major 3D printer manufacturers to domestic or local customers, and can provide all the required support and installation locally so the manufacturer doesn’t need to be involved.

To be a reseller, you’ll need to be an expert on every 3D printer made by the brand you’d be reselling, and may need to purchase one at full price first to fully understand it before becoming licensed and gaining access to wholesale rates. 

To find customers you’ll need a full understanding of the uses and applications of the particular 3D printers you sell, as well as likely buyer personas. The more industrial and expensive the 3D printers you sell, the smaller your potential client base will likely be.

Another variant of this is focusing on education and 3D printing in schools. Experts on 3D printing may be required to assist with either informing schools to install 3D printers, creating and teaching, or selling to educational establishments. However, check the regulatory rules for your country first.

Design 3D printing files

[Source: History.com]

Love design? Then designing 3D files and selling those designs might be one of the better 3d printing business ideas you’re looking for.

The setup is simple: create and sell designs that your customers can print with their own 3D printers.

How?

Sell your designs on 3D file marketplaces like MyMiniFactory, CG Trader, Shapeways or i.Materialise or create your own online store with Shopify or WordPress (via Woocommerce).

1. Create designs for a niche market

Become the go-to person in a niche and sell designs on marketplaces. For example, you could provide designs in the home furnishing niche that companies can buy and use to sell their own prints.

2. Create prototypes for companies

Another idea is to create prototype designs and sell them to companies. You’re not printing the designs, which means that you can scale faster.

It’s important to start in a specific niche. For example, say a medical company needs 3D prototypes. If you’re a 3D printing company specializing in medical prototype designs, it’s much more likely that you’ll land them as a client than if you produce generic designs.

3. Create designs for museums, architects and interior designers

Typically, museums, architects, and interior designers need a lot of prototypes and other models. For example, History.com uses 3D printed Viking models in its Vikings project and architects need building models.

4. Set up your own online store

If you don’t want to sell your designs on marketplaces, you can open a store with a service like Shopify. Sell designs that people can buy right away to use for their own businesses.

Full-Service 3D Design and 3D Printing Agency

Want to take it a step further and set up a shop that takes care of the entire process? With this business plan, your customers come in and talk about what they want you to print. Then, you design the product and print it.

Because the whole process can be quite expensive, you probably scale faster if you target B2B customers or those looking to get started with a new prototype. 

How?

1. Create prototypes for companies 

Companies need prototypes, and they can be very expensive. That’s why 3D printed prototypes are such a great alternative; they’re easier to produce, and they’re cheaper.

 2.  Design and print products for e-commerce stores

E-commerce companies need to find reliable factories overseas because it’s too expensive to manufacture products locally. As the factory is far away from where the company is based, there might be a range of problems; long production times, varying factory standards and long and costly delivery times.

Many times, e-commerce companies have to source more stock than they need to avoid running out of products. With your services, you can offer a flexible and affordable solution to these problems. By designing and printing products for e-commerce shops, you tap into a major pain point in the industry.

It’s important (and with any of the other business ideas listed here) that you don’t just see this as a way to profit from 3D printing. When starting a business like this, you want to make sure you’re really passionate about the quality or products and the service levels you want to deliver. Otherwise, it will show. 

Think about what types of aspects matter most to the types of companies that would want your services and tailor your business plan to address these concerns. Creating small batch production items for an e-commerce company will require a slightly different service than perhaps just creating initial one-off prototypes for new startups.   

3. Create promotional goods

You know, promotional goods can be really powerful for a company’s marketing strategy. The only problem is that it’s expensive and difficult to find creative promotional goods if the company wants to go with something else than t-shirts. 3D printing doesn’t have the same restrictions, and that’s why your 3D printing service can solve this problem. Besides targeting the end user (companies), you might want to offer your services to ad agencies.

4. Repair and maintenance

As the 3D printing industry grows, there will be a growing demand for reliable repair and maintenance services. Set up your own repair and maintenance shop and repair and maintain 3D printers and prints.

Conclusion

Overall, with massive industry growth — especially on the industrial side — additive manufacturing is very attractive area to be in. If you’ve got the risk-taking chops, business acumen and love and knowledge for 3D printing, and are willing to put the work in, who knows, perhaps you could be the next 3D printing billionaire!

But which filament is best for you?

What is 3D printer filament?

Filaments come on spools, making them easy to feed into your 3D printer. Filaments are plastic materials in spaghetti-like strands that are melted and extruded onto your printer’s print bed to make your 3D model according to the specs you chose in your 3D software.

3D Printer Filament Types

There are two main types:

• 1.75mm filament: the 1.75mm size is by far the most common, and is the smaller diameter of filament available.
• 2.85mm filament: sometimes referred to as 3mm filament, 2.85mm filament appears to be going increasingly out of fashion with makers drawn to 1.75mm filament instead. However, some printers including BCN3D Sigma printers and Ultimaker’s range of 3D printers take 2.85mm filament, including the Ultimaker 3, S3 and S5.

What is the best 3D printer filament?

Well, it depends. If you’re a beginner to 3D printing, then ABS or PLA are your best bet, with PLA considered the easiest filament to 3D print with overall. PETG is considered a good middle ground between ABS and PLA, which is explained in more detail in each 3D printer filament type section below.

If you’re looking to print crazy glow-in-the-dark, clear or conductive models, there are PLA blends with all of these attributes. PLA is considered the most versatile filament, and clear PLA filament, conductive PLA filaments and others are commonly used for specialized projects.

For those looking to print flexible parts, TPU, TPE and other flexible filaments exist for these uses. These are explained in more depth in their flexible filament section within this filament guide.

For experts looking to print with the strongest 3D printer filaments, PC, Nylon, Carbon fiber-filled, or even PEEK may be more appropriate — though tougher filaments cost more.

Cheap vs expensive filaments

PLA and ABS are the cheapest 3D printer filaments, starting at around $20 per kilo. PETG is only marginally more expensive, costing around $25 per kilo, and is more durable than PLA.

Tougher materials like Nylon start to get more expensive, while the most expensive 3D printer filaments such as PEEK filament can set you back hundreds of dollars per kilo. This is due to its strength, heat resistance and industrial use, which we’ll explain further later on.

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Hobbyist 3D Printer Filaments

PLA (Polylactic Acid)

• Temperature: 180-210°C
• Heated bed: optional at 40-60°C
• Heated chamber: not required
• Glass transition temperature: 60-65°C
• Adhesion: can use glue stick, blue painter’s tape, and more

PLA or PolyLactic Acid is the ‘go-to’ 3D filament for most makers. PLA filament is an eco-friendly biodegradable material made from cornstarch.

History:

Now probably the most widely used filament for makers worldwide, PLA is a product of the RepRap movement, with co-creator Vik Olliver discovering the material’s potential for 3D printing while trying to unearth a good filament for the first RepRap machines.

15 years later, PLA is used by millions worldwide to 3D print all types of models, and is known for being a very cheap filament as well as for being the only biodegradable filament.

3D printing tips:

It’s easy to print with because it requires some of the lowest temperature settings of any 3D printer materials and generally doesn’t warp. You’ll find PLA is also non-toxic and doesn’t smell much when printing.

Whereas 3D printer filaments like ABS and ASA are made of plastic compounds, PLA is made from renewable and biodegradable crops like corn starch. This makes PLA the undisputed eco-warrior favorite, and also means that when printing there is no foul smell or toxic fumes, unlike ABS.

Due to the purity of the raw materials used, higher quality PLA also yields better results with post-print finishing, such as sanding or drilling if required.  

If you’re not sure what material to use, and just want something easy to 3D print (it’s forgiving on your slicer settings, though it can ooze and string) with respectable strength and usability – PLA is worth trying out. 

It’s worth noting that PLA is typically brittle in comparison to most other durable filaments. If you need something just like regular PLA but more durable, or with higher temperature resistance, PLA+ could be your answer.

Unlike ABS, PLA does not require a heated bed when 3D printing filament, but we still recommend using one for the best results. You don’t need a heated chamber or enclosed build area, making it a favorite of DIY 3D printer owners that typically have open print areas.

We recommend the following PLA selections:

• PLA selections on Amazon here
• PLA filament range on Matterhackers here

There are a large range of PLA filaments available, with a huge variety in quality and strengths. Generally, it’s considered weaker than ABS – but higher quality 3D printer PLA can result in a surprising amount of finished part strength.

There are a huge number of different filament blends available. Common blends include wood filaments, as well as copper PLA and carbon fiber filament — you can even get glow-in-the-dark PLA for nighttime projects.

However, PLA melts at far lower temperatures than filaments like ABS, making PLA parts far less suited to high-temperature applications. PLA is also brittle, and if enough pressure is placed on a PLA part it can snap. It can’t be acetone-smoothed like ABS, though it is very easy to paint your finished parts, and gluing multiple PLA parts together is also no problem.

Read our full guide: PLA 3D printer filament guide

Best filaments: Best PLA filaments

ABS (Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene)

• Temperature: 230-250°C
• Heated bed: required, recommended temperature 90-110°C
• Heated chamber: highly advised
• Glass transition temperature: around 105°C
• Adhesion: glue stick, blue painter’s tape and others

Perhaps the second most commonly used filament is ABS (or Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene on Sundays) – it’s a common plastic used in a lot of casings and consumer products that require a durable material. Your phone case or keyboard is likely made from, or has some components in ABS. 

Good ABS filament is stronger than good PLA (and considerably stronger than cheaper varieties) and has a higher temperature resistance (it won’t go soft in a hot car on a sunny day) but takes a little more care when printing. Cheaper ABS can be crumbly or inconsistent to print.

As well as being one of the most widely used 3D printer filaments, it’s also one of the most versatile, available in many different colors and sizes — you can even buy clear ABS to paint after printing. ABS also has good heat resistance, with a glass transition temperature of around 105C — far higher than filaments like PLA (60-65C).

It is also cheap, costing around $20 per kilo, and as a result is commonly used for rapid prototyping.

3D printing tips:

This is because it has a tendency to warp if your heated bed is not hot enough (as it contracts when cooling), and requires a hotter extruder temperature. However, once your ABS plastic filament settings are tuned in and everything is at the correct temp – printing it is no harder than any other material. 

This material can also be smoothed with acetone. This means you can make it look more like a non-3D print, but that’s usually at a cost to detail.

As with all 3D printing filaments, it’s extremely important to only print in a well-ventilated area. ABS is no different. The very process of printing can release microparticles into the air during the heating and extruding process – so always read the guidelines from your printer’s manufacturer.

ABS filament requires a heated bed, and preferably a heated chamber — so RepRap 3D printers and 3D printer kits may struggle. Without a heated chamber ABS may warp and pull upward at the corners, and the midsection may even crack if the warping pulls two areas apart. It can also smell bad when printing, with pungent odors that can cause nausea — so it is best to 3D print ABS filament in a room you don’t need to use.

Is ABS filament transparent?

Not naturally, like PLA and some other materials (see below) but we do a modified ABS that is, also it prints more translucent unless you acetone smooth. 

• We also have a full, in-depth guide dedicated to ABS filament.

We recommend the following ABS selections:

• ABS filament selection on Amazon here
• ABS filament range on Matterhackers here

However, for the price there aren’t any stronger filaments or more durable filaments than ABS. Nylon is tough but more expensive, and PEEK is more than 10x pricier. Therefore, ABS is perfect for anyone looking to create sturdy and high-quality parts without breaking the bank.

For more info on ABS:

• Best ABS filament and brands
• Best ABS 3D printers

PETG filament (Polyethylene Terephthalate with added Glycol)

• Temperature: 220-245°C
• Heated bed: optional but recommended, at 70-90°C
• Glass transition temperature: around 80°C
• Adhesion: blue painter’s tape and other options
• Density: 1270kg/m³

PETG is PET with added glycol in order to improve its 3D printing characteristics. PET is widely used to make water bottles as well as in injection molding, with glycol added to make it less brittle and improve impact resistance and durability.

It is effectively almost unbreakable – layer adhesion is excellent and it will just keep bending, rather than snapping like more brittle plastics might. 

Other benefits include hardly any warp and virtually no smells when printing. It also bridges well. When printed optimally for transparency, PET is one of the clearest.

3D printing tips:

Although easy to print with, you want to make sure your PETG filament settings are dialed in properly.

The main advantages of PETG filament are that it has good impact resistance and fantastic thermal characteristics but without the problems with warping associated with ABS or brittleness associated with PLA.

For these reasons, PETG is considered a stellar third option for those deciding between PLA and ABS, and is becoming an increasingly popular filament.

Possibly the main advantage of PETG however is how great layer adhesion is during 3D printing. It’s natural stickiness makes for fantastic layer adhesion, leading to strong and durable parts that do not warp — this makes PETG one of the best 3D printer filaments for long and thin parts that are a nightmare for ABS.

We recommend the following PETG selections:

• PETG selection on Amazon here
• PETG range on Matterhackers here

However, PETG’s softer surface makes it prone to wear and tear from general scratching, and is therefore not an ideal material for any application that involves heavy use or that needs to retain a certain surface finish.

Additionally, PETG’s great layer adhesion has some downsides. It sticks so well that it is a poor option for printing supports, bridges, and other structures. For this reason, PETG is less of an attractive option unless you have a dual extruder 3D printer and can print a better support filament such as PVA or PLA. You should also be wary of stringing, and correct your 3D slicer settings if you notice excessive oozing.

For a more in-depth guide to PETG 3D printing:

Flexible 3D printer filaments — TPU, TPE, TPC

• Recommended extruder temperature: 220-260°C depending on the flexible filament type
• Heated bed: optional, recommended temperature 40-60°C

TPE — or Thermoplastic Elastomers — blend plastics and rubber together to create this special type of flexible 3D printer filament. These filaments are flexible and elastic — far more so than other flexible 3D printer filaments like PLA.

Flexible filaments are any material that can be easily bent out of shape, and then returns to it’s original (post printed) shape once released. These are different, but share similarities to semi-flexible, extremely durable materials like PETG and Nylon. 

Flexi filaments have various vibration dampening, impact absorbing and shape restoring properties. Excellent uses involved model car tyres (or tank tracks), bouncy objects and custom printed stress balls – but the uses are limitless. 

They’re available in different hardnesses, often referred to on the Shore D hardness scale. Lower numbers are softer, and higher are firmer materials. 

It is commonly advised when 3D printing soft material to do so at half the usual speed, at around 20-30mm/s, at least to start with. You may also want to check the extruder you use is compatible with flexible materials – as some extruder designs can cause problems, especially with softer grades of flex.

• We have a specialized article focused on TPU if you want to find out more about TPU filament.
• For TPE and other flexible filaments, we have an article explaining every type of flexible filament.

There are several different types of TPE, the most popular being TPU (Thermoplastic Polyurethane). These flexible 3D printer filaments are great for absorbing shocks, as well as dampening vibrations.

They also have very good heat resistance properties, making TPU and other flexible filaments perfect for creating less rigid tools that can withstand high temperatures. When printing with TPE or TPU, you’ll notice it has fairly similar characteristics to PLA.

We recommend the following flexibles:

• Range of flexible TPU filaments on Amazon
• TPU and TPC range of filaments on Matterhackers

However, TPE can be difficult to print, and considerable care must be taken to maintain precise print settings, or the print could fail. TPU and other flexibles are also prone to small imperfections on printed models through stringing and oozing.

Additionally, extra care should be taken if using a Bowden extruder, as the longer feed lengths can cause jams.

For more info:

• The best TPU and flexible filaments
• Complete guide to TPU filament 3D printing
• Guide to flexible filaments

Nylon filament (Polyamide)

• Temperature: 240-275°C, generally around 250°C
• Heated bed temperature: 90-110°C
• Does Nylon require a heated chamber: Yes

Nylon is a form of Polyamide, with Nylon filament known for being very tough, heat and impact resistant, and difficult to scratch or wear down. As a result, not only is Nylon filament used in some maker projects, but is used heavily in industrial 3D printing situations for rapid prototyping and other uses, and Nylon PA12 powder is also used in SLS 3D printers and in MJF.

This is, hands down in our opinion the most versatile printing material currently available. It’s an amazingly strong filament. Outside the 3D printing world it’s commonly used in clothing, when printed thinly its flexible (think living hinges) and when printed thick it’s got a good level of stiffness to it.

Ultimately Nylon is very durable, has a low friction coefficient (often used in low RPM gearboxes and bushings) and in our Nylon 12 blend has an increased resistance to chemical and thermal influences than the more common grades such as Nylon 6. It is these properties that make Nylon so suitable for blending with other materials to create filament types with a range of excellent benefits.

3D printing tips:

You will absolutely need a heated bed as well as a heated chamber to 3D print Nylon filament. Without these additions, Nylon will warp and parts will be rendered useless. Therefore, use a heated bed as well as an enclosure or heated chamber to keep a steady temperature maintained, further preventing curling or warping.

Additionally, use the correct build surface for Nylon filament, such as an adhesive like glue stick, or PEI sheets or Kapton tape.

Nylon is more expensive than consumer filaments like PLA, with high-quality filaments starting at around $50 per kilo. There are several different Nylon filament types, including NylonX, which is mixed with carbon fiber, and NylonG, which is mixed with glass fibers. Both blends give Nylon added strength but cost much more than standard Nylon.

We recommend the following Nylon selections:

• Nylon filament range on Amazon
• Selection of Nylon filaments on Matterhackers

Nylon is considered tougher than even ABS, owing to its higher impact resistance from its flexibility. Unlike ABS, it also does not create bad odors during 3D printing. It is mainly used for its fantastic strength, impact resistance and flexibility.

However, Nylon’s proneness to warping and curling mean you must be very careful when 3D printing. Keep precise print settings to ensure your print doesn’t warp and fail, and do not attempt to 3D print Nylon without a good heated bed and chamber.

Nylon is also very hygroscopic and requires airtight storage in a dry place or its 3D printing characteristics will drastically worsen.

For more info on Nylon:

• Best Nylon filaments and brands
• Best Nylon 3D printers
• NylonX filament guide

Support Filaments

PVA (Polyvinyl Alcohol)

• Temperature: 190-210°C
• Bed temperature: max 45°C
• Adhesion: blue painter’s tape (and others suitable)

PVA is probably best known for its ability to be dissolved water, and it is therefore often used as a support material in geometrically complex prints alongside PLA. It’s used with PLA as the two materials share similar melting points and print characteristics.

It is perfect for these prints as its solubility means that leaving a print overnight in water completely removes the PVA supports, leaving no trace or blemishes that would otherwise affect the quality of the print.

We recommend the following PVA support filament selections:

• Matterhackers PVA filament selection
• Amazon PVA filament range

If necessary, PVA can also be used to print models, rather than just as a support filament. It is however not ideal for this, as like PC it absorbs moisture from the air, and any contact with water will spell doom for your part. It therefore requires 3D printer filament storage to retain its properties.

Moreover, PVA is liable to clog the 3D printer’s nozzle when printing if left hot without extruding any 3D printer filament. It’s also expensive, which may be a barrier considering it cannot be used for any product intended to be taken outside.

It’s worth considering though it’s extremely hygroscopic – that means you’ve got to keep it dry and sealed with desiccant to preserve it

For more information, here’s our full guide to PVA filament:

HIPS (High Impact Polystyrene)

• Temperature: 230-245°C
• Heated bed: required, recommended temperature 90-115°C
• Adhesion: blue painter’s tape, glue stick, and others also work well

HIPS is a dissolvable material mostly used as a support material when printing with ABS. The main advantage of using HIPS with your ABS 3D printer filament is that after printing, simply leave your model in Limonene to dissolve the HIPS supports.

It’s often regarded as just a support material, which it works as very well. However, it also works great as a standalone printing filament due to the fact it’s easy to print and generally regarded as quite strong and low warp.

In fact, it will actually print nicely as a higher impact alternative to PLA. 

HIPS is a copolymer combining the hardness of polystyrene with the elasticity of polybutadiene rubber to create a high-impact thermoplastic that’s pretty tough and strong – without the typical brittle properties. 

It’s for this reason alone we feel HIPS filament is a really underrated 3D printing material in its own right. 

As a support material, HIPS dissolves using Limonene solution – which is an easily obtained solvent that’s made from the skin of lemons. Once submerged for 24 hours, the HIPS will have dissolved and you’ll be left with the print with clean, crisp overhangs, and no evidence of any supports or any imperfections. 

Having similar properties to ABS, it’s perfect for use with a dual extruder 3D printer, and its light weight means it’s well suited to parts where cutting weight is the aim.

Moreover, HIPS is cheap, and though dissolvable in Limonene, it is still water-resistant. It’s stronger than standard polystyrene, and possesses good mechanical and strength characteristics, leading to its use in plastic signs and point of sale displays.

We recommend the following HIPS selections:

• Matterhackers HIPS range
• Dynamism HIPS range
• Amazon HIPS range

However, as with ABS, HIPS requires the use of a heated bed, and high temperatures are recommended along with a heated chamber with ventilation. HIPS 3D printer filament is liable to warp, so careful monitoring of temperature is required to avoid visible and rough looking layers.

Likewise, as with ABS it exudes strong fumes, and is guilty of clogging up the 3D printer nozzle which can waste time and material.

Read our full guide to HIPS filament here:

Composite Filaments

Wood filaments

• Extruder temperature: 180-220°C
• Heated bed temperature: optional 40-60°C
• Do you need a heated chamber or enclosure to 3D print wood? No.

Relatively new developments in 3D printing have made it possible to print beautifully finished wood models on even the most budget-friendly 3D printers!

These wood filaments are typically a mix of 70% PLA, and 30% wood elements, such as pine, bamboo, and other woods. These filaments give an authentic wooden sheen to your models, letting you create precise wood models that look almost identical to the real thing — only very close inspection will reveal the truth.

Beyond choosing the wood type like pine or birch, you can tailor your preferred wooden finish during printing. Higher temperatures will stain the wood a darker shade, with lower temperatures the opposite. However, don’t print too high — wood is flammable.

We recommend the following wood filament ranges:

• Amazon’s range of wood filaments
• Matterhackers premium wood filament range

Since it’s mostly PLA, wood filaments still print at low temperatures and with relative ease, so even low cost basic printers should be able to print without too much issue. After printing, you can finish, stain and polish your prints to create gorgeous wood-like aesthetics.

Read our full guide to wood filament printing here:

Metal filaments

• Extruder temperature: 190-220°C
• Heated bed: Optional, at 40-60°C

When we say metal filaments, we don’t mean 3D printing solid metal parts in the way industrial metal 3D printers do. Rather than being full solid metal, metal filaments use a percentage of metal powders mixed with standard filaments like PLA.

The most commonly used metal filled filaments include stainless steel, bronze, and copper. However, make sure before you buy that you are indeed buying a filament with metal powder in, rather than a metal color filament.

We recommend the following metal filament ranges:

• High quality metal filament range on Matterhackers here
• Selected metal filaments on Amazon here

Rarely used for things metals would be used for, metal filaments are mostly an aesthetic choice, creating metallic parts that can look like real bronze statues or metal cosplay features.

They’re easily printable on even standard desktop 3D printers, but you should upgrade to a hardened steel nozzle to avoid the composite filaments repeatedly wearing down your standard brass nozzles.

You can read more in our full guide to metal filaments:

Carbon Fiber filled 3D printer filament

• Recommended extruder temperature: depends on main material.

Carbon fiber filled 3D printer filaments are those which contain short fibers infused into the original filament – such as PLA or Nylon – to give it extra strength and hardiness.

Other carbon fiber-filled filaments exist, such as PETG, ABS, and PC. Markforged, as well as releasing their first metal 3D printer recently, have pioneered FDM 3D printers that use these filaments.

These extremely strong fibers mean 3D printed parts will be stronger, retain their shape better (as the fibers prevent shrinking), and best of all, lighter.

We recommend the following carbon fiber filaments:

• Matterhackers range of PLA and other composite carbon fiber filaments
• Dynamism range of premium carbon fiber composites
• Amazon range of carbon fiber filaments

However, the use of these carbon fibers within the 3D printer filaments can increase the chance of the printer nozzle clogging during printing.

Moreover, the filament itself is not suitable for all printers due to its enhanced properties and toughness – basic RepRap 3D printers or cheap 3D printers may struggle. Lastly, the filament becomes slightly more brittle with its enhanced strength, which may not always be ideal.

Carbon-reinforced Nylon 3D printing tips:

• Temperature: 260-275°C
• Bed temperature: 100-115°C
• Adhesion: Kapton tape

For more information, here’s our full guide to carbon fiber 3D printing:

Glass filaments

• PLA Glass temperature: 180-220C, heated bed optional at 40C+
• Glass-reinforced Nylon temperature: 255-275C, heated bed at 100-110C

Perhaps considered fragile by those who only know glass from easily shattered windows or drinking glasses that break when dropped on the floor.

In fact, glass fibers actually provide excellent strength and durability, and are added to standard filaments to notably improve their strength for prototyping and other industrial uses.

We recommend the following glass fiber filament range:

• Glass fiber filaments and NylonG range available on Matterhackers here

PLA glass composite filaments can be made 50% stronger, and 2x less flexible with glass additions. PLA is typically seen as brittle, with glass providing more flexibility without breaking.

NylonG, or Nylon glass composites, are also strengthened without losing Nylon’s trademark flexibility, and is used in industry for high-strength industrial prototyping and other applications.

The main benefits of this material, aside from those mentioned above,are its abrasion resistance. 

Need to print something that needs to take quite a bit of rough and tumble that’s low friction and hard-wearing? Like RC helicopter landing skids, or similar (OK, so we’re not thinking very inventively right now). This could be your go-to for tough stuff. 

Otherwise settings are similar to our standard Nylon 12.

For more information on glass filaments:

Professional 3D printer filaments

PC filament (Polycarbonate)

• Temperature: 300°C+
• Heated bed temperature: at least 90°C, recommended 120°C+
• Do you need a heated chamber or enclosure to 3D print polycarbonate? Yes
• Polycarbonate glass transition temperature: 150°C
• Adhesion: PEI sheets, glue stick

Polycarbonate filament is extremely strong, can take powerful impacts, and withstand very high heats. It also has a transparent finish that looks great.

PC is also lightweight, making it ideal for products that need to be clear, strong, resist heat, and light, and is a heavily used filament in engineering applications, as well as 3D printing sunglasses and riot gear – and even used with toughes glass to make it bulletproof.

• We have a full guide to PC filament in our complete Polycarbonate filament guide.

As a result of its toughness, not all 3D printers can handle PC filament, because your hot-end needs to run at around 260-300°C for it to print nicely.

One of the benefits of such a high printing temperature though is its thermo-stability – polycarbonate filament takes a bit of heat to soften it up. But that’s not to say it’s brittle when cold, far from it. This thermoplastic is also durable and takes quite a force to break it. 

Another interesting quality of Polycarbonate is that it is not strictly rigid but slightly bendy, meaning it can move flexibly without snapping or breaking with high tensile strength. This makes it useful in areas where flexibility is a necessity. Moreover, PC’s ability to retain its structure until around 150°C makes it ideal for use where high temperatures are involved.

We recommend the following PC filament selections:

• Range of PC filament on Amazon here
• Matterhackers range of PC filaments

However, as a result of these strong heat properties, very high temperatures are required to print the 3D printer filament. As it is difficult to prevent the rapid cooling of the part from these high temperatures, PC is very prone to warping – from small temperature deviations, or in the event of too much cooling – therefore requiring a specialized cooling chamber with heated bed.

Polycarbonate is also very hygroscopic and if not stored correctly will deteriorate as it absorbs moisture from the air. We explain how to store and dry affected filament in our PC filament guide below:

ASA (Acrylonitrile Styrene Acrylate)

• Temperature: 230-250°C.
• Heated bed: required, recommended temperature 90-100°C.
• Adhesion: Blue Painters Tape / Glue Stick / PEI Sheet

ASA is a 3D printer filament with good impact resistance as well as being resistant to heat and scratching. However, due to the different rubber material used to produce ASA, it is more expensive than standard 3D printer filaments.

Acrylonitrile Styrene Acrylate is a specialist material, which is new on the scene. It’s very similar to ABS, but with one key difference – it’s resistant to UV light. That means it won’t crack or yellow when left out in the sun over time. If you print practical outdoorsy things, or print for business this printing material is invaluable.

3D printing tips:

ASA filament otherwise has similar properties to ABS — it’s slightly denser, slightly more durable, and harder wearing. If you’d like to learn more about the differences between this and regular ABS filament, check out our comparison article.

Something to note when printing ASA though is that it needs to cool really slowly, or it can crack. This is easily solved by turning your cooling fans right down, to about 5% or 10%.

If you have an enclosed printing chamber, that’s even better – but otherwise, try keep the ambient temperature warm and no drafts and your prints will come out a dream. 

We recommend these ASA filament ranges:

• Matterhackers ASA filament range
• Amazon range of ASA filaments

In addition, this new material composition means it requires a high extruder temperature with recommended ventilation to counteract the fumes produced melting it. A heated bed is also highly recommended to prevent the warping that can be more unpredictable with ASA than some other filaments.

Read our full guide to ASA here:

PP (Polypropylene)

• Recommended extruder temperature: 220-250°C
• Heated bed: 85-95°C

PP is another semi flexible 3D printer filament like PC, and is very lightweight. It however lacks some of the strength of PC, and is therefore used mostly in low strength applications where its flexibility is needed, such as in making ropes, stationery, and in the automotive and textiles sectors. It is also a main material used in injection molding.

PP is useful in 3D printing as it is both impact resistant and fatigue resistant. This makes it perfect for parts that need to be able to absorb shocks, and its scratch resistance comes in handy here too.

We recommend the following PP filament ranges:

• Matterhackers range of PP filaments
• Dynamism Polypropylene filament range
• Range of Amazon Polypropylene filaments

However, PP lacks the strength necessary in many industries, ruling it out for many applications. It is also liable to warping during printing, and is also relatively expensive. Moreover, if you want to customize your model post print, PP is not a good option due to its low solubility for different colored dyes.

PEEK filament (Poly Ether Etherketone)

• PEEK 3D printing temperature: 360-450°C
• Heated bed: 120-160°C
• Do you need an enclosure or heated chamber when 3D printing PEEK? Yes.
• PEEK glass transition temperature: 143°C

PEEK is a very strong plastic that, due to its phenomenal thermal resistance (melts at 343C), requires extremely high temperatures to print. It’s a high grade, industrial material that offers the same strength by volume as steel, despite being 80% lighter. As a result, PEEK is seeing increased use in aerospace and automotive parts to save weight.

In addition to its use in the aerospace industry, PEEK has uses in high fashion 3D printed shoes, as well as wide use in the medical sector to create dental instruments, lightweight prosthetics, and implants as an alternative to standard metal implants. This is because PEEK doesn’t react to boiling water or steam, making it an ideal filament for areas where sterilization is required.

Absolutely not a consumer 3D printer filament, PEEK is reserved for high value-added industrial applications — though if in future prices come down it could see more day-to-day use. It is favored for its extremely high strength, fantastic temperature and chemical resistance, and low weight.

We recommend the following PEEK filament selections:

• Matterhackers premium PEEK range
• Dynamism PEKK and PEEK range

However, these advantages don’t come cheap, and PEEK is certainly far from inexpensive. Expect to pay around $500/kg, sometimes up to even $700. Moreover, it requires these very high temperatures to print, meaning that only industrial 3D printers can print it effectively, no cheap DIY 3D printer kit machines are likely to cut it.

Even small deviations in printing conditions can create imperfections in PEEK printed parts, so conditions must be kept very stable. Moreover, most desktop 3D printers do not come with hot ends that are able to 3D print PEEK, as they cannot handle the temperatures required.

For a more in-depth article on PEEK filament:

Other filaments

Cleaning Filament / Flushing Filament

• Temperature: 170-280°C+

Excuse us for getting personal, but you should be aware that carbon can build up in your hotend nozzle over time.

Now, if you print with the same material, at the same temperature, and your filament is always of a high quality – generally you shouldn’t need to worry about cleaning your nozzle as often. However, we would recommend it as a course of action periodically, especially if you’re a high-volume printer. 

Where you’re really going to see the benefits to nozzle cleaning filament though is when you change materials – especially if you’re going from a hotter printing material to a cooler temperature one.  

Let’s say you’re printing ABS at 250°C, and then take out the material to reload with PLA. PLA prints low, typically at around 180-210°C. That means, any ABS residue isn’t going to get hot enough to push out, and is going to cause friction. 

Not just that, but if you increase the heat of your hotend to 250°C to flush out the ABS with PLA, you risk cooking, or burning the PLA. Which can also clog your nozzle, so for best results, use Floss between 205-210°C to clean out PLA.

Therefore, cleaning filament works perfectly as a flushing filament to use between material changes (and once in a while even if you don’t change) – to keep your nozzle clear and blockage-free. 

What’s more, it only takes 30 seconds per clean making it a real time saver.

PMMA (Acrylic Filament)

• Temperature: 245-255°C
• Bed temperature: 100°C
• Adhesion: blue painter’s tape / glue stick

PMMA, or polymethyl methacrylate, is a hard, scratch-resistant, lightweight thermoplastic. Commonly known as acrylic, it’s well known for clarity and shatter resistance. 

Not as strong as Polycarbonate, but significantly more impact resistant than glass, PMMA filament is ideal when you require something easy to print yet with excellent translucency and scratch resistance. 

Think headlight lenses, aquariums and ice-rink protective glass as common uses for PMMA. 

In addition, PMMA can also be acetone smoothed, similar to ABS. It’s also used for lost-wax casting, as it cleanly burns away when using as a form for a cast mold.

Related articles:

• Filament calculator – how many meters of filament on a 1kg spool
• How much can you print with 1kg filament / PLA?
• The best filament dry boxes
• Best filament storage for 3D printing
• How to dry wet 3D printer filament
• How to smooth PLA
• How to acetone smooth ABS filament
• How to join or fuse filament
• Ender 3 filament buyer’s guide (and V2 / S1)

Now, people installing wind turbines on their property is nothing new, be that for free energy generation, aesthetics, or simple novelty.

Spending around $100 on a wind turbine, and mounting it high enough, can generate a continuous power output of 600watts. Practically speaking, this is enough to recharge a car’s battery, run a coffee machine, or keep a small fridge-freezer running indefinitely. Pretty good for a turbine not much bigger than a football.

But $100 is still $100, so it’s unsurprising that there are plenty of examples of people building their own. DIY turbines have been made from car alternators, ceiling fans, and there’s even a case from the UK involving kites attached to a bike!

You may not have a spare ceiling fan laying around, or the engineering know-how to turn it into a working wind turbine; but if you’ve got a 3D printer, then you’ve got more options than you think. Here are three ways to 3D print your own wind turbine!

1. Just for Show: 3D Printed Wind Turbines for the Aesthetic

While we will explore the ways that 3D printed wind turbines generate free power, it’s worth remembering that for many people, a wind turbine exists mainly for aesthetics.

And luckily for them, there exists a wealth of open-source files ready to be printed into your very own kinetic ornament. And these aren’t simple wind spinners either, with the following examples showing off how 3D printing can make potentially complex models accessible to even the least technically-minded individuals.

Here’s some cool 3D printed wind turbine projects that, while they don’t work and provide power, are just really cool and innovative designs.

Jacky Wan’s VAWT Wind Turbine.

Jacky Wan, also known as “Valcrow” online, designed this wind turbine model upon the request of Ultimaker in 2016.

At the time, Ultimaker were releasing their “Ultimaker 2+” 3D printers, and intended to use this model to show off their new line’s capabilities.

Jacky Wan came up with a desktop-sized Vertical Axis Wind Turbine (VAWT), so-called because they stand upright with their generators and gearboxes mounted on the ground, allowing them to work in any wind direction. His design, in particular, was notable because the model’s pieces could be easily snapped together without any adhesives or fasteners, allowing it to be easily reproduced by end-users.

Although the design was a promising demonstrational piece for Ultimaker, Valcrow’s model was just that, a model. A generator or gearbox was not incorporated into the design — so it’s just an ornament.

That being said, if you do want to make something more complex, then you do have options.

Nilheim Mechatronics’ 3D Printed wind turbine

Unlike Jacky Wan’s design, this model resembles a more conventional wind turbine, with an upright construction and propeller style blades. What perhaps separates this turbine from others though, is its use of functioning internal gears.

Will Cogley, the turbine’s designer, was sent a Makeblock 3D printer, and decided to design a wind turbine model to test his new printer’s capabilities. He explained that:

“It’s loosely based on what a real turbine looks like on the inside, and by pointing a fan at it you can make the turbine spin and you can see the gears moving… I was extremely pleased with the quality of the gears I managed to print. I even managed to produce some tiny little gears in areas using the same settings and they came out gorgeous.”

Will Cogley

Provided you already own a 3D printer, these two examples should come in at under $100, and demonstrate the flexibility that 3D printing allows for when choosing just how you want your wind turbine to look.

But what if you don’t want an ornament? What if you want it to generate power?

2. 3D Printed Power Generating Wind Turbines

Although far from impossible, building a homemade wind turbine capable of storing or generating power is harder than it may initially seem.

This would help to explain why the majority of open-source wind turbine 3D printing files don’t include power generation components, with the instructions tending to either leave the end-user to figure it out, or admitting that the turbine is essentially an ornament.

To sidestep the need to build your own generator, most 3D printed wind turbines capable of generating power use mechanical-style gears and pre-built stepper motors, which can then either be plugged into an appliance, or battery. Although this method allows the gears to be 3D printed, it also results in a less efficient system than a store-bought $100 wind turbine, with these DIY prints rarely generating more than 50 watts of power.

That being said, for something you put together on a desktop 3D printer, 50 watts of free energy isn’t anything to scoff at, and these two projects will show you exactly how it’s done.

Daniel Davis’s “MKIII 50Watt 3D Power Turbine”

Published under his moniker, “3dprintable1”, Davis’ design strikes a balance between accessibility and function. According to Davis:

“This fully functional wind turbine has been specifically designed to be manufactured, assembled, and operated at home with its unique 3D printable design.” And his turbine’s many features seem to support this.

The “Power Turbine” features a passive variable pitch (PVP) design, which automatically controls the turbine’s blades to both optimize power generation, and to prevent dangerously fast spinning speeds in high-winds.

It’s modular, with end-users able to modify the size of the turbine’s blades and generator/stepper-motor without changing the base architecture or structural components.

The design is also efficient, with 95% of the turbine requiring no post-processing or print supports, further reducing the amount of plastic used and the cost of the final turbine.

All in all, the package here seems be just what most people are looking for, 50 watts (potentially) of ready-to-print power… Unless of course, you did want to have a go at building a generator yourself?

K&J Magnets

Similar to Davis’ design, K&J built a relatively simply upright wind turbine. However, they pushed the envelope by also building their own 3D printed generator.

The build was inspired by the inner workings of a sailboat’s windmill; they used magnetic wire to wind their own coils, then added stepped block magnets and a fidget spinner’s ball bearings to create a working rotor. The entire assembly was then housed in a 3D printed frame, creating their turbine’s generator.

Helpfully for us, K&J made the STL files used for their wind turbine available for free, as well as a video explaining their process. This allows you, should you feel so inclined, to build your very own wind turbine generator entirely from scratch.

However, this doesn’t mean that you should… when spinning their generator with a power drill, they only managed to generate 20Volts, and a single watt of power, barely enough to light up a LED.

K&J have quite transparently admitted that its practical value is limited:

“We’re not quite ready to disconnect from the grid using this device. It’s going to need some serious improvements to make more power. Still, it was a fun demonstration, illustrating the concepts behind larger wind turbines that do provide useful power!”

Bubble Power: Dylan Phillip’s mini turbine

Here’s a wind turbine you probably weren’t considering building until now. And yes, it may not net you any free electrical power, but it wouldn’t have been right to publish this listicle without mentioning bubble power!…  Bear with me.

Dylan Phillips, also known as “Pikkle,” designed, printed, and released files for a wind turbine bubble blower.

For a device not much bigger than your fist, he managed to fit a lot of functionality into it too! Once the wind catches the turbine’s wands, they dip into the bubble solution, where the wind again blows the bubbles. If the wind changes direction, then the attached wind vane steers the whole turbine, allowing it to blow bubbles from any direction!

In addition to also making his files available for open-source download, Phillips also released two videos, one an animation detailing the turbine’s construction, and the other showing the device in action, with the 3D printed wands releasing a surprising amount of bubbles for their size.

Is bubble power too small for you? Let’s look at the scale’s other end then.

3. 3D Print Your Own Full-Scale Offshore Wind Turbine!

Okay, so this one may only really apply to millionaires, but… Did you know that full-scale offshore wind turbines are now beginning to be 3D printed?

In September 2021, a research partnership was announced between three companies: Energy provider GE Renewable energy, 3D printing company Voxeljet, and Fraunhofer IGCV (Institute for casting, composite, and processing technology).

Together, they set out to develop the world’s largest 3D printer ever built for offshore wind production, with the aim of 3D printing full-scale wind turbine blades.

Like many industries, the research was motivated by a desire to increase efficiency. 3D printing with sand molds is much cheaper than the composite and carbon-fiber materials used in conventional wind turbines. But most importantly, 3D printing could allow for these blades to be constructed on-site, rather than in a factory, and then transported in pieces to the often remote or offshore installation sites.

By reducing so much transportation, 3D printing offers massive environmental and bottom-line benefits.

Voxeljet announced on their website that “the partners expect to launch the project during the third quarter of 2021, with initial printer trials starting during the first quarter of 2022.”

So, who knows, maybe next year you will actually 3D print your own offshore wind turbine.

Other articles you may be interested in:

• 50+ Useful & Cool things you can 3D print
• 3D printed fidget toys – 25 designs

Or perhaps in short, what good is 3D printing doing for people in difficult situations now?

This article showcases how 3D printing is helping with humanitarian aid and disaster relief, emergency shelter and housing, prosthetics, and more.

3D Printing in Humanitarian Aid and Disaster Relief

The business of disaster relief is far more complex than it’s given credit for.

Moving massive amounts of supplies, equipment, and people both quickly and safely is an enormous logistical challenge that humanitarian professionals can literally spend their entire careers streamlining.

When any nation faces a humanitarian disaster, naturally, the immediate response will come from their own welfare and emergency services.

For wealthy nations, this level of support is usually sufficient, with floods, heatwaves, and terrorist actions usually being resolved domestically.

However, where additional aid could save lives, then international assistance is rarely turned down. For instance, the US received a massive international aid response during the wake of Hurricane Katrina, especially in New Orleans, where flaws in the city’s flood defenses caused 80% of the city to flood.

Despite the industry’s wealth of expertise, conventional deployments continue to face significant logistical challenges, leading to experiments with how 3D printing can help with humanitarian aid and other relief.

Logistical Challenges

Ideally, the level of humanitarian aid given would be determined by need. However, this is too often not the case. Instead, disaster zones that are cheaper and easier to get to are likely to receive more aid than remote ones.

Mike VanRooyen, a Director of the Harvard Humanitarian Initiative, explains the issue:

“So take for example, around the same time as the [2010] Haiti earthquake there was a massive flood in Pakistan. But it was very remote and very difficult to get to… The only people that could respond in this distant area of Pakistan for this massive flood were the major organizations that had lifting capacity.”

By comparison, Haiti, which is located close to the US mainland, never experienced issues with the amount of aid it received.

However, Haiti faced its own challenges receiving aid — with how it was managed and implemented.

Aid arriving into Haiti faced an enormous backlog. The quake damaged roads, ports, and underground petrol storage, forcing all urgent and heavy cargo through a single airport. This airport itself was also damaged, with its control tower inactive until days into the relief operation.

So, How Can 3D Printing Help?

Looking to get around these logistical challenges, a new way of delivering aid using 3D printing emerged. Rather than moving supplies to the location, and having to contend with remote deployments or issues with infrastructure damage, why not just 3D print supplies on-site?

Field Ready

Field Ready is a group of NGOs and charities with a vision to use 3D printing to innovate how humanitarian aid is delivered.

In an interview with Singularity University, Field Ready co-founder Dara Dotz explained that:

“If we were to order a shipping container full of umbilical cord clamps, pay the money to get the clamps, buy a million of them so we get them at a cheaper cost, put them in the shipping container… I mean, it can take anywhere from 18 months to three years, and it costs an exponential amount of money. And so, in this case, a small clinic could never afford that.”

Their approach is to instead deploy into these disaster zones and 3D print what is needed on-site, bypassing most of the logistical issues that come with the conventional method. And their approach has seen much success.

Field Ready’s Deployments

Field Ready are active across the world and make use of a variety of desktop 3D printers and manufacturing techniques. A notable and recent example of their impact is their continued work within Syria.

Over ten years of conflict has severely degraded the nation’s healthcare systems. A 2017 World Bank Damage Assessment stated that:

“More than half of all hospitals in the assessed cities have experienced some form of damage (completely destroyed or partially damaged) as of February 2017… Total damages to transportation across the cities of Aleppo, Hama and Idlib are estimated to range between US$608 million and US$668 million.”

With the conflict dragging on, Syria has struggled to rebuild this infrastructure. With locals reporting to Field Ready that “more Syrians die because of a lack of healthcare facilities and equipment than all those killed during the years of violence.” 

With this in mind, Field Ready set up a workshop in the region with the intention of using 3D printing to support these damaged facilities.

Since 2020, Field Ready have been working towards adding 200 components and 35 new devices to their catalog. The catalog contains open-source designs ready to be downloaded and 3D printed.

In addition to their own manufacturing, they reached out to local partners to increase production and ultimately ensure that these devices can still be produced should Field Ready have to depart.

The merits of 3D printing’s ability to produce these parts on-demand and on-location have been proven here, especially with the additional logistical delays caused by Covid-19.

Eric James, Field Ready’s executive director noted that:

“by making these items locally, we bypass traditional supply chains and people won’t have to wait for 10 months before they can get a lifesaving device… By helping to establish a local market, we increase resilience against the shocks of future disasters. It’s practical, it’s efficient, and it saves lives.”  

Since 2020 Field Ready have reported that over 13,000 people have benefitted from their deployment, with 3D printing helping them to repair over 110 medical devices, including infant incubators, microscopes, and defibrillators.

Why Is 3D Printing Not Used More for Disaster Relief?

While these projects are promising, 3D printing still has its limitations. Most 3D printing tools are slow and cannot be used on a large scale. They also have limited function in the days immediately after a disaster.

Food, water, shelter, and medicines will be immediately needed by those affected. Most 3D printers cannot immediately print these products, and where they can, they can’t do so at scale.

For example, as an official evacuation point, around 10,000 people took shelter in New Orleans’s Louisiana Superdome the day before Katrina’s arrival. The national guard arrived with 40,000 military MREs (Meal, Ready-to-Eat). Even if a 3D printer could produce one meal every two minutes, it would still take over 1000 hours to print this quantity, by which time the hurricane would have long passed.

Read more: our feature story on 3D printing food.

Ultimately, 3D printing is all but guaranteed to have an expanding role within disaster relief operations, with current projects already proving its effectiveness as a logistical tool. However, with the comparatively low speed and volume of 3D printing, it’s unlikely to ever replace the need for conventional logistics.

3D Printed Emergency Shelter & Housing

3D printing has a proven ability to produce low-cost houses and building infrastructure with a fraction of the cost and speed of conventional construction, prompting continued research into the field. For example, Millebot Inc have developed a large format printer that can operate and be transported within a shipping container.

Despite this, 3D printed is rarely used to house people displaced immediately after a disaster. Instead, they are more often instead used for social programs.

This is because the 3D printers used for construction are often large, heavy, and expensive, forcing them into the same logistical challenges as conventional aid deployments. Additionally, they require constant connection to power lines to operate, something which is frequently damaged in disaster zones.

Additionally, even though 3D printed houses can now be constructed within 24 hours, this is still too slow.

105,000 homes were destroyed within 30 seconds of Haiti’s earthquake, making the most practical way of sheltering the estimated 1.5 million displaced people being the shipping of conventional emergency tents.

As if to compound this, having just seen their homes crumble around them, many Haitians refused to enter buildings being used as temporary hospitals. During an interview, Stephanie Kayden, another Director at the Harvard Humanitarian Initiative, explained that:

“Even though the place where we were working had buildings that were very strong… the people that we were helping were too afraid to go inside them.”

This forced the Initiative to use tents and converted trucks as operating theaters.

Despite limited use in immediate disaster responses, 3D printed housing is still used by NGOs and charities for social programs. for example, the organizations 14Trees and Thinking Huts uses 3D printing to accelerate the building of schools and homes in places where infrastructure or affordable housing is lacking.

On that note, there have been various projects aimed at 3D printing affordable housing for the homeless and vulnerable, however, few have committed to 3D printing quite as much as Austin Texas’s “Community First! Village.”

Community First! Village

Amber Fogarty, President and Chief Goodness Officer of Mobile Loaves & Fishes, the organization behind the village, explains:

“Every single neighbor that calls Community First! Village home pays rent in order to live here. We create micro-enterprise opportunities for our neighbors to earn a dignified income doing things that they love to do.”

And these enterprises are significant too. They have a car servicing business, art house, pottery operation, blacksmithing and woodworking shop, and an organic farm.

In 2018, Mobile Loaves and Fishes announced that they would be significantly expanding the village’s capacity by using 3D printing. Amber Fogerty again explains:

“We have about 230 people living in micro-homes and RVs. On Phase Two, [the 2018 announcement] we will add 300 more homes and introduce something that has never been done before: 3D printing three houses at a time.”

Working with 3D printing company ICON, the first production of houses is already complete, with six houses and a welcome center already printed.

Each home is 400 square feet, and features single bedrooms, bathrooms, living rooms, and porches with sweeping views of the Texas sunset.

Icon deployed its large-format Vulcan II 3D printers for the task and fed them a proprietary mix of concrete to build most of the structures.

Considering that Community First Village eventually aims to house 40% of Austin’s homeless population, the reduced cost and construction speed that ICON’s 3D printed homes offer could make that a reality.

3D Printed Prosthetics

3D printing is already used in the development of some modern prosthetics. However, what is perhaps being missed in these new developments, is 3D printing’s potential to make these limbs more accessible.

For example, New York’s Hospital for Special Surgery say a new prosthetic leg can cost anywhere from $5,000 to $50,000.

Within, Glenn Garrison, the hospital’s director of prosthetics and orthotics also explained that “they’re probably in line with a cost of a car. It can be a pricey thing to work with.”

Read more: our full feature story on 3D printed prosthetics.

The effect is that most of the world’s population simply cannot afford all but the most rudimentary of prosthetics. This is especially true for children, who must regularly have their prosthetics replaced as they grow.

Even nations with free or subsidized health services suffer from long prosthetics waiting lists, and restrictive options when it comes to available models.

What 3D printing offers then, is the opportunity for these individuals to affordably build their own prosthetic limbs.

E-Nable

E-Nable is perhaps the most well-known of these 3D printing prosthetic communities. The concept is that volunteers will design prosthetics that can be printed on desktop 3D printers, and then make their designs open-source and available for others to use. The result is that patients looking to print their own prosthetics can simply visit E-Nable and find detailed designs and instructions on how to 3D print their own devices, as well as access to a community of people willing to support them.

In one case, E-Nable’s Yemen-based group, the “Aden Chapter,” began treating victims of the country’s civil war. Abdulla, the Chapter’s founder, explained that:

“The team spent August 2017 printing, redesigning, assembling, and reprinting for the first case… Mossa, our first recipient, 18 years old, lost his left hand by an explosive war remnant. Doctors had to amputate the injured area of the hand rather than proceeding any further medication since the health facilities were crowded and occupied by more sophisticated and serious injuries… He loved the design and gave us valuable feedback.”

E-Nable later reported that “Mossa has been using his new arm to carry objects that are up to 5kg, holding objects and cups and opening bottles. He has also been using this device to write his name!”

Mossa is an interesting case of accessibility. His issue wasn’t the price or availability of prosthetics, but simply the overwhelming pressure of Yemen’s health services. Ultimately, without 3D printing communities like E-Nable, people like him would still likely be on waiting lists.

How key is 3D printing for bettering people’s lives overall?

While that is a difficult question to answer, 3D printing’s continuing increasing adoption in building temporary homes for the disaster-hit — the father of construction 3D printing, Dr Behrokh Khoshnevis, originally came up with the idea when thinking how to help disaster-hit populations — as well as in prosthetics, building low-cost homes, and in humanitarian aid, make it a hopeful piece of the larger puzzle in raising living standards worldwide.

Right now, 3D printing’s impact is comparatively minimal, but with great advances being made, particularly in house-building, there is a lot to be hopeful about with 3D printing’s ability to do good.