Ender 3’s wild success is rival manufacturers playing catch up with their own take on the low-cost printer. There are now plenty of viable alternatives if the Ender 3 doesn’t quite have the features you need.

Budget Pick	Top pick
Voxelab Aquila	Anycubic Kobra 3D Printer
4.5	4.7
$179.00	$299
Amazon here	Anycubic Store here
	Amazon here

Budget Pick

Voxelab Aquila

4.5

$179.00

Amazon here

Top pick

Anycubic Kobra 3D Printer

4.7

$299

Anycubic Store here

Amazon here

For most users, I’d recommend taking a look at the Biqu B1 first. It has more built-in features compared to the Ender 3, with automatic bed leveling and a touchscreen display making it a more intuitive experience for beginners.

Elsewhere, you might also consider the superior print speed of the Prusa Mini, or the affordable Voxelab Aquila for a budget choice.

I’ll step through all the worthy Ender 3 alternatives I’ve tested, showcasing the best ones currently available at a range of price points and their different features.

Whether you’re looking for a different-flavored Ender 3/Pro/V2-style printer, or an alternative to the latest decked-out Ender 3 S1 Pro, there’s something for everyone here.

Read more: our Ender 3 review

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Best Ender 3 Alternatives

Biqu B1

• Price: $279.99
• Build Volume: 235 x 235 x 270 mm
• Filament Compatibility: PLA, ABS, PETG, Flexibles

Echoing a running theme among the best Ender 3 alternatives, the Biqu B1 quite simply offers more features than you’d get from Creality’s stable of Ender 3s for the same sum, its most direct competitor in terms of price being the Ender 3 V2.

Among them are a roomier 235 x 235 x 270 mm (outclassing even the Ender 3 S1 in that respect), adjustable belt tensioners, a double-sided magnetic ‘Super Steel Sheet’ bed, a filament sensor, and a resume print function. 

The neat, unique dual-mode interface is also worth a mention.

It allows you to hot-swap between Biqu’s sleek, modern touchscreen-controlled interface with a handy model-preview function (unusual for low-cost printers) to a rotary knob-led Marlin UI.

We are also big fans of the upgrade and tinker potential afforded by vacant ports on the SKR board and how accessing the Biqu B1’s innards takes hardly any effort, not something we can say about the Ender 3s without lashings of sarcasm.

Weaving in automatic bed leveling, Wi-Fi connectivity, or a supplementary Z-axis motor should be a doddle.

For us, the Biqu B1 is somewhat of a hidden gem that hasn’t garnered the attention it deserves quite yet. It more than gives the Ender 3 V2 a run for its money and, rather fittingly, costs less.

The Biqu B1 also comes with glitzy RGB LED lighting on the print head, and the printer is available in a color scheme with rather fetching hot pink accents.

Due to the fact it houses a Bowden rather than a direct drive extruder and lacks automatic bed leveling, it doesn’t rival the Ender 3 S1. Creality’s flashiest Ender 3 costs substantially more in any case, so, not a fair comparison.

Prusa Mini

• Price: +$350
• Build Volume: 180 x 180 x 180 mm
• Filament Compatibility: PLA, PETG, ASA, ABS, PC, CPE, PVA/BVOH, PVB, HIPS, PP, Flex, nGen, Nylon, Woodfill

Almost adorable with its compact base and signature Prusa orange accents, the Prusa Mini is first and foremost a more wallet-friendly alternative to Prusa’s endlessly-lauded i3 MK3S+ and, by extension, a disruptor in the Ender 3-dominated budget space.

In keeping with Prusa’s history of slapping quality parts on ‘complete’ printers that need little in the way of user-led upgrades, the Prusa Mini is a stellar alternative to the Ender 3 in all the guises.

It’s an option for those that don’t fancy diving into the bowels of their printer on the regular to tinker or upgrade. It’s one for people that want a systematically reliable and solid printing experience every time they fire up their machine.

It just works with no fuss or frustration.

On to features, the Prusa Mini has all the trimmings you’d expect from the folks behind the i3 MK3S+:

• Automatic mesh bed leveling
• Ethernet connectivity
• Sharp color LCD screen with model preview
• SuperPinda homing probe
• PEI-coated magnetic removable bed

When combined, these features see the Prusa Mini storm past the classic Ender 3 trio to compete directly with the Ender 3 S1. Better yet, Prusa asks you to pay $50 less than the S1 to become a happy Mini owner and print with a broader range of compatible filament types.

There is one major compromise: the Prusa Mini’s modest 180 x 180 x 180 mm build volume to the Ender 3 S1’s comparatively spacious 220 x 220 x 270 mm.

Beyond that, there’s little to fault here. The Prusa’s signature quality courses through every layer you’ll print with the Mini.

Read more: our Prusa MINI vs Creality Ender 3 comparison

Voxelab Aquila

• Price: $180.00-$200.00
• Build Volume: 220 x 220 x 250 mm
• Filament Compatibility: PLA, ABS, PETG

With a price roughly on par with the Ender 3, the Voxelab Aquila is a solid all-around 3D printer designed by 3D printing royalty Flashforge, albeit under the Voxelab budget branding.

It’s another offspring of the Ender 3’s still-rippling impact on the budget 3D printer segment in both shape and design but throws in features you won’t find on Creality’s stock machines.

Leading the charge is a textured carborundum glass bed (similar to the one on the Ender 3 V2), a 32-bit mainboard, a color LCD, a resume print function, XY belt tensioners, and a filament run-out sensor.

Much like the Ender 3, the Aquila offers a solid foundation for upgrades and mods but works well as is. The option is there, though, to spruce it up with automatic bed leveling, for example.

Another way the Aquila diverts from the Ender 3 playbook is simplicity.

It’s easy to use from the get-go, bolstered by a well-designed UI design and the bundled VoxelMaker slicer, a reskin of FlashPrint.

The latter is straightforward and uncomplicated, with just enough functionality not to overwhelm beginners but enough options to hone good quality prints.

While the original Ender 3 once straddled the crossroads between capabilities and price, the Voxelab Aquila certainly makes a strong claim as a direct successor.

We can’t stress how much value you get for under $200, especially as the Voxelab Aquila is more or less equivalent to the more expensive Ender 3 V2 in features and printing experience.

Anycubic Kobra

• Price: $299.00
• Build Volume: 222 x 222 x 252 mm
• Filament Compatibility: PLA, ABS, PETG, TPU

The Anycubic Kobra is the budget entry in Anycubic’s latest new model release flurry.

It’s capable of superb prints for the price and pulls in a blend of convenience-focused features we expect to become a benchmark for competitors moving forward.

We were kindly sent a review model by Anycubic, and despite a bit of wrestling with the software side of things, we were thoroughly impressed with the Kobra.

With a bit of tuning, the quality of the prints is simply outstanding for a low-cost FDM printer.

Getting from packaged parts to a machine ready to print was effortless and, frankly, pleasant. Two months on, we’re still finding new things to like and enjoy about this plucky little printer that punches well above its weight.

At just under $300, The Anycubic Kobra costs more than the base Ender 3, which you’ll likely find for under $200.

However, that extra $100 spent bundles the type of top-shelf features you’d expect on machines with a significantly higher price tag. Sized up against the Ender 3 V2, the Kobra costs roughly the same, has better features, and offers a more rounded experience for the money.

The direct-drive extruder, automatic bed leveling, and a fantastic removable magnetic PEI-coated spring-steel bed allow the Kobra to deliver fuss-free, reliable, user-friendly printing.

You also get a slightly larger 222 x 222 x 252 mm build volume than the original Ender 3 trio. There’s no denying you’re landing far more value than you’d typically expect from a low-cost 3D printer.

As for the Ender 3 S1, the Anycubic Kobra shares many features, but with $100 shaved off the price tag.

You don’t get quite as much vertical build volume to work with, though, a minor trade-off for one of the most appealingly affordable Ender 3 alternatives.

Although it’s still early days, the Kobra has the makings of a DIY darling as it’s begging for community-fashioned mods, tweaks, and upgrades, just like the Ender 3.

Expect a flood of these as shipments start hitting doorsteps in the months ahead.

Why You’d Want To Consider An Alternative to the Ender 3

Despite a firm grip on the most popular 3D printer crown, the Ender 3 is getting a little long in the tooth.

Omitted features that were once minor irritants easily remedied through DIY upgrades have morphed into major downsides.

Creality addressed these to some extent in successor models such as the Ender Pro and Ender 3 V2 with a tempered carborundum glass bed, silent mainboard, and a chunkier Y-axis extrusion but some gaping downsides remain.

The market is now awash with better or similarly equipped alternatives offering a near-identical printing experience at a similar price point, meaning it’s harder to frame the Ender 3 as the go-to budget pick it once was.

These alternatives unabashedly draw inspiration from the Ender 3 but improve or match it in ways that make them better or are at least comparable all-around machines.

It’s harder to make a case for why you should consider an alternative to the latest Ender 3 S1.

The printer is Creality’s most sophisticated Ender 3 yet, boasting a glut of desirable improvements, chiefly automatic bed leveling, a direct drive extruder, a roomier 220 x 220 x 270 mm build volume, and a PC-coated spring steel removable print bed.

An impressive machine, no doubt, and a premier pick in the affordable portion of the 3D printer market.

Nevertheless, the alternatives are worth a gander if you just want something different from the Ender family or need a cheaper machine mostly matching the Ender 3 S1’s feature set.

Articles we recommend:

• Prusa alternatives
• Ender 3 vs Prusa Mini
• Ender 3 V2 / S1 vs Prusa i3 MK3S+
• Ender 3 vs Ender 5
• Ender 3 vs Ender 3 Pro, V2 and Max
• Ender 5 vs Ender 5 Pro vs Ender 5 Plus
• Elegoo Mars 3 vs Elegoo Saturn
• Anycubic Mono X vs Elegoo Saturn
• Flashforge Adventurer 3 vs 3 Lite

It’s one of the more upgrade-friendly budget 3D printers out there, though, so tinkering it’s sticking points out of the equation is relatively easy.

Upgrading to an Ender 3 glass bed for 3D printing lets you benefit from consistent bed leveling, a smooth first layer, even heat distribution, easy print removal, and easier cleaning.

For most users, I’d recommend the Official Creality Tempered Ender 3 Glass Bed. As an in-house pick, it fits the Ender 3 perfectly, with easy print removal and impressive first layer adhesion.

Although it is priced slightly higher than some of the other options, the overall quality makes it a worthwhile investment for most users.

In this guide, I’ll walk you through all the Ender 3 glass bed upgrades I’ve tested, and compare them across key metrics like price, print quality, and ease of use.

I’ll share my top tips and tricks for choosing the glass bed that’s right for your projects – so you can make your choice with confidence!

This article focuses on Ender 3 and Ender 3 Pro owners therefore who want to upgrade to a glass bed.

Read more: our Creality Ender 3 vs Pro vs V2 compared

Best Ender 3 Glass Beds

Official Creality Tempered Ender 3 Glass Bed

• Price: $18.00-$20.00
• Where To Buy: Amazon, Creality Store

Manufactured and recommended by Creality, the official Creality tempered Ender 3 glass bed fits perfectly atop the Ender 3’s build plate.

As such, you won’t have to worry about the glass bed being too small or too large. You’ll need four clips to secure the bed. Creality doesn’t provide these on its official store, but there are kits available through Amazon that bundle them alongside the bed.

It can withstand temperatures up to 400°C and has a hardness of 8 Mohs, guaranteeing durability that outclasses acrylic, plastic, and metal beds.

It also features a nano-molecular coating for better adhesion.

Creality guarantees a flat and true surface with 4 mm thickness that delivers a sleek and smooth base. Official documentation notes that adhesive isn’t required for most prints, given how well the bed nails first-layer adhesion.

The official Creality tempered Ender 3 glass bed is wear and scratch-resistant while also offering easy print removal once the bed has cooled to room temperature.

As for cleaning, Creality says the glass bed is easy to clean with a soft cloth and isopropyl alcohol.

Dcreate Borosilicate Glass Bed

• Price: $13.00-$15.00
• Where To Buy: Amazon

The Dcreate borosilicate Ender 3 glass bed measures 235 x 235 mm, or the exact size of the Ender 3 build plate. It features smooth, rounded edges to ward off injuries when handling the glass bed.

In our experience, borosilicate performs better than tempered glass when it comes to resistance, adding longevity to its advantages.

Dcreate manufactures the glass bed with a true, flat, and smooth finish, with a 3.8 mm thickness, which should see it heat up slightly faster than chunkier alternatives. It can withstand temperatures up to 520°C.

The Dcreate borosilicate Ender 3 glass bed mounts to the Ender 3’s build plate via a set of binder clips provided alongside the glass bed.

Dcreate recommends using an adhesive like glue or hairspray for the best results and only using water to wipe clean the surface. However, using the classic isopropyl alcohol method is an option, too.

Sovol Borosilicate Ender 3 Glass Bed

• Price: $10.00-$13.00
• Where To Buy: Amazon

Another borosilicate option, the Sovol borosilicate Ender 3 glass bed, costs less than our other recommendations, which is ideal if you want a thrifty way to test drive a glass bed.

Its dimensions – 235 x 235 mm – line up perfectly with the Ender 3’s existing stock magnetic plate for easy alignment and installation using the clip method.

Thickness tallies up to 3.8 mm for reasonably fast heating and a strong, stiff surface that won’t warp or deform under high temperatures.

Thanks to the borosilicate glass, the Sovol Ender glass bed has excellent thermal expansion properties along with heat and temperature shock resistance.

Some form of adhesive is recommended, which you can easily wipe clean with alcohol, according to the manufacturer Sovol.

Wisamic Borosilicate Glass Bed

• Price: $20.00
• Where To Buy: Amazon

One of the pricier third-party options, the Wisamic borosilicate Ender 3 glass bed is cut to align snuggly with the Ender 3’s build plate.

It measures a matching 235 x 235 mm and has a 4 mm thickness. You’ll want to double-check the specifications before buying, as Wisamic sells several other configurations with different dimensions that won’t work with the Ender 3.

It’s made of 100% borosilicate glass to support higher temperatures and fluctuations than traditional build plates.

Its low thermal expansion properties also ensure it doesn’t warp, staying flat even after prolonged use at high temperatures. The borosilicate glass also provides solid binding properties when heated but allows for effortless print removal when cooled down.

You’ll need to source your own clips to fit the Wisamic borosilicate Ender 3 glass bed, as these aren’t included with the bed.

We recommend at least 21 mm clips or higher for the best fit.

Advantages of Using a Glass Bed on Your Ender 3

Flat – Due to being less sensitive to thermal expansion and the manufacturing process involved in producing it, glass remains flat and true even at high temperatures. Uniform flatness ensures consistent bed leveling, which means fewer failed prints.

Smooth First Layer – Unlike rough texture build plates, which generally cake the underside of prints with uneven grooves and bumps, glass is smooth and produces a clean, smooth base.

Heat Distribution – Although glass doesn’t match the conductivity of metal build plates, it provides more even heat distribution across its surface. Uniform heat distribution reduces warping caused by hot spot areas.

Print Removal – Glass beds make easy work of removing easy prints, requiring far less force, often without the need for a scraper, to snap off cleanly than other bed types.

Cleaning – Due to their smooth, flat surface, glass beds are a doddle to clean compared to rough beds where grime, filament, and adhesive embed into the grainy texture. You can safely plunge it into a sink filled with water and wipe it clean with soap with no risk of damage.

Longevity and Cost-Saving – Glass beds have a longer lifespan than other bed material types. Although you’ll likely pay more for a glass bed, you won’t need to replace it as frequently, saving costs in the long run.

Read more: the best Creality Ender 3 Dual Extruders

Ender 3 Glass Bed Tips and Tricks

Cleaning – Finger grease, filament residue, adhesive leftovers, dust – these stray accumulations, often imperceptible to the naked eye, can wreak havoc on first-layer adhesion and the overall success of your prints. 

Regular and thorough cleaning is, therefore, a must. A freshly-laundered piece of cloth allied to a squirt of isopropyl alcohol works best, although there’s no harm in bolstering this with the occasional dunk into a tub of soapy water for a deep clean.

​​Align and Secure the Glass Bed – Make sure the glass bed sits flush and is secured tightly to the build plate before bed leveling.

Binder clips are a popular option, with no more than four needed to keep the glass bed in place (slide the build plate backward and forward to ensure the clips don’t knock any part of the printer).

Be sure to set the printable area in your slicing software according to the positioning of the clips.

Bed Leveling – Tedious and time-consuming, correctly leveling the Ender 3, Pro, and V2’s bed before firing off a print is the most important step you can take to make the most of your factory-fresh glass bed.

Make sure your Z offset compensates for the added thickness of the glass; too close, and it will scratch up the glossy surface. Don’t hesitate to do multiple leveling runs for the best results.

If you have an Ender 3 S1, you’re in luck. The printer’s automatic bed leveling takes care of calibrating the bed for you.

Bed Temperature – If filament cools too quickly, it won’t adhere to the glass bed. Check your filament manufacturer’s recommended heated bed temperature.

Take that figure, add a few degrees, and dial the temperature into your slicing software. If you still encounter adhesion issues, raise the temperature in small increments until you hone in on the best settings.

By extension, ensure the bed reaches the proper temperature before printing.

Brims and Rafts – Although not necessary for all prints, brims and rafts are excellent solutions for more temperamental prints where first-layer adhesion causes all manner of headaches.

They involve more post-printing clean-up, longer print times, and use more filament, but they do wonders to improve first-layer adhesion by boosting the surface of contact between the filament and bed.

A brim is a series of small layers running around the perimeter of a part or model to boost the size and adhesion of the first layer. On the other hand, a raft is printed below the print itself and formed of a flat, thick lattice of filament.

In other words, a foundation atop which the print sits.

Adhesive – Glue, hairspray, dual-sided painter’s tape – these are all viable and popular options to increase first-layer adhesion, especially when printing with heat-sensitive filament like ABS.

These adhesives fare best for small, intricate prints with a limited contact surface or those with tight corners as they reduce warping, curling, and the print detaching from the bed.

Things to Consider Before Upgrading Your Glass Bed

Match Build Plate Size – When browsing for a glass bed, be sure its dimensions match those of the Ender 3’s 235 x 235 mm build plate.

Doing so ensures a snug fit, removing the need to cut and shave down the bed yourself or key in software settings to cater to a smaller glass bed than the stock Ender 3 magnetic bed.

No Too Thin, Not Too Thick – The thickness of the glass bed is a crucial feature to keep in mind, or run the risk of cracking the glass or, on the flip side, having to wait inordinately long periods for the bed to reach print-ready temperatures.

As a rule of thumb, 3-4 mm thickness represents a good middle ground between the two, a standard of sorts you’ll find on most third-party options.

Thermal Shock – A glass bed is subject to reasonably dramatic temperature fluctuations, so consider a bed’s thermal shock resistance.

A quality glass bed can confidently jump between temperatures without cracking or shattering up to as high as 400°C. Borosilicate and tempered glass beds tend to showcase the best thermal shock resistance.

FAQs

Articles we recommend:

• Ender 3 vs Ender 5
• Ender 3 vs Ender 3 Pro, V2 and Max
• The best Ender 3 Upgrades
• Ender 5 vs Ender 5 Pro vs Ender 5 Plus
• Flashforge Adventurer 3 vs 3 Lite
• 3D printer heated beds guide
• Ender 3 firmware guide
• Best Ender 3 filaments

In this guide I’ll walk you through my experience with the most popular 3D printing CAD software, comparing them across functionality, price, and who they would suit best – so you can make a confident decision.

My top recommendation for creative and artistic applications is Blender, while FreeCAD and Fusion 360 are more focused on engineering and technical applications.

Both Blender and FreeCAD are free and open-source, but the $60 pricetag or Fusion360 still represents good value because it’s the most comprehensive and powerful software of the three.

For complete beginners, TinkerCAD does the best job of simplifying the process of creating 3D models. Rookies should start with this free, browser-based software.

We’ll also discuss professional picks like SolidWorks and CREO. They’re expensive – and way beyond the needs (and budget) of most users – but worth considering if you need best-in-clas quality.

How Does CAD Software Work With 3D Printing?

CAD software gives you tools to create a 3D model from scratch that can then be processed, sliced, and sent to a 3D printer for printing.

It’s the starting point from which a fully formed 3D model emerges, a digital blank canvas that allows you to transform an idea or concept into a real-world 3D printed object.

On a more granular level, CAD software for 3D printing also allows you to export it to a file format, such as STL or OBJ, compatible with and ready for slicing.

3D slicing software then translates the model into a set of G-code instructions interpretable by a 3D printer.

The printer can then print a physical, real-world replica of the CAD software-created digital model.

Best CAD Software for 3D Printers

Blender

• Price: Free, open-source
• Supported 3D Printing File Formats: STL, OBJ
• Operating System Support: Windows, macOS, Linux

Blender is an open-source CAD program that leans heavily towards the artistic side of computer-aided design. It’s one of the most expansive and feature-rich free modeling software for 3D printing.

The software features a potent trove of features and tools suited to creative applications, including modeling, simulation, animation, digital art, video editing, and much more.

Though not innately geared towards 3D printing, the relatively new 3D Print Toolbox and Mesh Analysis features take strides to make Blender a far more 3D printing-friendly program.

Here, the idea is to simplify and process the often very complex polygonal models made with Blender to achieve better 3D printer results.

These new features include a series of checks and fixes that refine and clean up any model for export with 3D printing in mind. These include checking scale and measurement, wall thickness, edges, overhang geometry, support positioning, and hollow areas.

Although not a new addition, Blender also offers export to a selection of the most popular 3D printing formats, including STL.

Aside from this, Blender features a full-fledged modeling and sculpting toolbox to create high-quality 3D models. If anything, Blender suffers from this versatility and comes sided by a hulking learning curve, which means beginners may be overwhelmed by what’s offered here.

FreeCAD

• Price: Free, open-source
• Supported File Formats: STL, OBJ
• Operating System Support: Windows, macOS, Linux

FreeCAD is a free CAD software best described as a Swiss Army knife for all kinds of 3D modeling.

It’s a parametric modeler, meaning every aspect of a model is updated when changing a single parameter, part, dimension, or rule. Despite FreeCAD’s drab interface, the program is a powerful design tool that lends itself well to 3D printing.

FreeCAD works based on Workbenches, or toolsets, with different functions.

In the case of 3D printing, the interesting ones are Part and Part Design, which have a range of sketching, constraint, and modeling functions to create 3D models based on a library of geometric shapes.

There’s also a Mesh Workbench, which contains analysis and repair tools to iron out any potential errors that could lead to a failed print.

From there, FreeCAD allows you to export your model to the STL format, among others, and send it to a slicer program to 3D print cad files.

Fusion 360

• Price: Limited free version (non-commercial license) or $60/month
• Supported 3D Printing File Formats: STL, OBJ
• Operating System Support: Windows, macOS

Our top pick for the best CAD software for 3D printing, Fusion 360 is developed by AutoDesk, the company behind AutoCAD, Maya, and other leading CAD, animation, and visual effects programs.

Although intuitive to use and laid out for simplicity, Fusion 360 is a potent CAD tool that houses a dizzying array of professional 3D design, modeling, machining, schematics, and simulation tools.

It’s also a potent tool for creating models for 3D printing and easily one of the best CAD program for 3D printing

Useful features include many you’d usually expect in slicers, such as automatic orientation, infill patterns, support structures, and a print simulation tool to verify the integrity of the build process before sending it to a 3D printer.

In essence, Fusion 360 covers every step from design to model and part preparation.

There’s a free limited non-commercial version available for hobbyists and personal use. Alternatively, you can pay $60/month for the full version, which throws in fully-featured CAM, CAE, and PCB tools along with collaboration features and access to an unlimited number of active projects.

SolidWorks

• Price: Limited free trial, $4,000/year
• Supported 3D Printing File Formats: STL
• Operating System Support: Windows, MacOS

SolidWorks is a professional-grade 3D printing CAD software launched way back in 1995.

Although it houses state-of-the-art modeling tools, SolidWorks is relatively easy to use and is often praised for its clean user interface and intuitive workflow.

SolidWorks allows you to adjust model settings in preparation for 3D printing.

These include resolution fine-tuning, tolerance deviations, and visualization tools to ensure a model won’t result in a failed print. You can export models to STL, ready for slicing.

SolidWorks costs a pretty penny at $4,000 a year for the most basic licenses, so it isn’t a viable choice for amateurs and hobbyists, who’d be better served with a less feature-rich but far more affordable alternative such as Fusion 360.

CREO

• Price: 30-day free trial, $2,000-$3,000/year
• Supported 3D Printing File Formats: STL
• Operating System Support: Windows, Linux

Creo is CAD software designed for solid 3D modeling for the most demanding applications and industries.

It’s through and through a professional application, making it particularly suited to uses where high-quality, precise 3D prototypes and models are required.

Beyond a comprehensive suite of design and modeling tools, Creo allows users to optimize designs for 3D printing by detecting potential errors, providing optimal print positioning, and offering support simulation.

Creo can also export models in the STL file format.

Creo is notoriously challenging to master because it’s geared towards the most complex CAD needs and requirements. As such, we can’t recommend it for beginners, but only to seasoned professionals and businesses.

The price of entry is also very high – around $2,000 to $3,000 for a year-long license.

TinkerCAD

• Price: Free
• Supported 3D Printing File Formats: STL, OBJ, GLB, SVG
• Operating System Support: Browser-based

If the thought of firing up a complex, professional free modeling software for 3D printing has you worried, then TinkerCAD should be your go-to first and best CAD for 3D printing.

Schools and educators favor TinkerCAD across the globe for its effortless ease of use, intuitive design, and colorful interface.

It’s no exaggeration to say it’s the most accessible CAD software for 3D printing.

The design phase is a walk in the park, using a Lego-inspired shape-based approach that’s easy to pick up.

You modify shapes, tune colors, adjust dimensions, add texts, include holes, and more effortlessly. If you want the quickest path from a simple idea to a 3D model to a real-world printed part, no program makes it as easy and fast as TinkerCAD.

Developer AutoDesk also provides an extensive library of tutorials, learning resources, and projects to help you make that first step to creating a CAD design for 3D printing.

As a browser-based program, TinkerCAD works on virtually any device and offers STL and OBJ exporting for slicing.

SketchUp Free

• Price: Free
• Supported 3D Printing File Formats: STL
• Operating System Support: Browser-based

SketchUp Free is a free browser-based CAD program used to create high-quality 3D models and designs without navigating complex systems.

It’s particularly forgiving to beginners, thanks to being a fun and very predictable way to dabble in 3D design for 3D printing for the first time. Getting to grips with basic navigation and functions takes minutes.

Every model starts from a basic geometric shape, which can then be modified, scaled, added to, and subtracted from to create solid models for 3D printing.

Furthermore, SketchUp Free features a free library of user-generated and manufacturer-produced 3D models, the 3D Warehouse, which can be used to spark inspiration, find a part to fit a particular build volume, or remix a model that’s already been vetted for 3D printing success.

Because SketchUp Free runs on any browser and has a companion SketchUp Viewer app to visualize models from a mobile device, it’s the perfect CAD program if you’re often on the move.

It also exports to all your favorite 3D printing file formats like STL.

Best CAD Software for 3D Printing Buyer’s Guide – Things To Consider

What You Plan On 3D Printing

Simply put, this is about complexity and choosing a CAD Software for 3D printing capable of bringing your ideas to life.

While valuable tools for beginners, programs like TinkerCAD can only help you create pretty rudimentary models due to their reasonably limited toolset.

On the other hand, when using professional programs like Fusion 360 and SolidWorks stacked with advanced features, you’re only ever hemmed in by your skillset, experience, and the quality of your modeling ideas rather than the software itself.

In other words, if you plan on creating and 3D printing intricate, feature-rich models, be sure to use advanced CAD software.

The more beginner-friendly options will serve you well if you’re simply testing the waters or only have a basic print in mind.

Your 3D Printer’s Quality and Type

Spending hours modeling a pristine 3D model only to find out your 3D printer isn’t up to the task is not an experience we recommend to anyone.

As such, it’s essential to be well aware of your printer’s capabilities and choose a CAD Software that matches your 3D printing needs.

This is especially important if your model includes overhangs, sharp outward angles, precise surface details, or requires support structures. All these add complexity to the printing process, and not all printers are up to the task.

The type of technology underpinning your printer matters, too.

While cheaper and better suited to larger prints, FDM printers often fail when it comes to printing small, high-detailed models. On the other hand, resin printers excel at doing just that, prized for their ability to pump out high-resolution prints with plenty of fine detail and texture.

Look at your printer’s resolution and minimum layer height to get an idea of what level of detail you can expect.

File and Slicer Compatibility

Consider what file types a particular CAD software for 3D printing supports, especially export formats.

These largely determine compatibility with slicing software. Working hours on a model only to find out the program can’t export to a supported format is something you want to avoid.

As a rule of thumb, opt for CAD software for 3D printing that includes STL exporting at the very least.

Best CAD Software for 3D Printing – FAQs

Other articles you may be interested in:

• Cura vs Slic3r
• The best free CAD software
• The best 2D CAD software
• Best 3D rendering software
• Best 3D sculpting software
• The best CAD software for beginners

I don’t blame you, given their similarities and similar price tags – but there are a few differences that will serve some projects better than others.

Overall, if you prioritize a larger build volume, then the Anycubic Photon Mono X is the better option. However, if you prefer a more reliable and sturdy build with a resin fill level indicator, then the Elegoo Saturn is a great choice.

Overall, both the Anycubic Photon Mono X and Elegoo Saturn represent good value for money. The price difference is pretty marginal, so it just comes down to which features you value most.

I’ve discovered the strengths and weaknesses of both of these 3D printers over the past couple of years, and will walk you through them so you can make the right choice.

OVERALL TOP PICK

Anycubic Mono X

Available at:

Anycubic here Amazon here

CONSISTENT PICK

Elegoo Saturn

Available at:

Elegoo here Amazon here

Elegoo Saturn vs Anycubic Photon Mono X – The Printers

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Anycubic Photon Mono X

• Printing technology: Resin MSLA
• Build volume: 192 x 120 x 245 mm 
• Layer height: 50 microns
• LCD: 8.9” 4K monochrome
• Connectivity: USB, Wi-Fi
• Software: Photon Workshop, ChiTuBox, and Lychee

Launched as a super-sized version of the popular Photon Mono, the Mono X is a top-level consumer resin printer. Much like the Elegoo Saturn, the aim is to deliver all the precision and fine detail of resin printing at a price point most consumers won’t cower at.

Under the hood, or should we say vat, it houses an 8.9″ 4K monochrome LCD pushing an XY layer height of 50 microns for superb detail and finish.

Its most distinguishing feature is, however, a large 192 x 120 x 245 mm build volume, giving makers a fair bit more Z-axis space than most resin printers in the same category. Anycubic has also thrown in Wi-Fi connectivity for remote monitoring alongside a robust construction centered on an all-metal chassis and removable yellow cover.

Much like the Elegoo Saturn, Anycubic Photon Mono X doesn’t dawdle, pushing print speeds of 1-2 seconds per layer, a significant improvement on the first generation Photon that came before it.

The printer ships with Anycubic’s own Photon Workshop slicer, although there are also well-tuned profiles for popular third-party alternatives like Lychee and ChiTuBox.

Pros:

• High print quality
• 4K LCD
• Larger build volume – especially the very large 245mm z-axis

Cons:

• Poor Wi-Fi functionality
• Warped plate issues

Elegoo Saturn

• Printing technology: Resin MSLA
• Build volume: 192 x 120 x 200 mm 
• Layer height: 50 microns
• LCD: 8.9” 4K monochrome
• Connectivity: USB, Ethernet
• Software: ChiTuBox

The Elegoo Saturn is an entry-level resin printer that in many ways sets the benchmark for affordable midsize machines, using the ever-popular Elegoo Mars as a blueprint with some sensible tweaks to cater for a boosted build volume. It produces high-quality prints at a price previously reserved for much more expensive LCD printers.

It features a sleek 8.9” 4K monochrome with a 3840 x 2400 pixel resolution alongside a 192 x 120 x 200 mm build volume capable of an XY layer height of 50 microns, a precision that even two years after launch feels like a steal. A sturdy all-metal build and the guidance of dual-linear rails along with a removable shroud in Elegoo’s signature red tint ensure reliability meets aesthetics.

However, where the Elegoo Saturn stakes its claim as one of the go-to budget resin printers is the print speed. The printer can competently cure layers in a nippy 1-2 seconds, making it 60% faster than competing RGB LCD printers without any loss in features and details, according to Elegoo.

Pros:

• 4K LCD
• Excellent print quality
• Affordable

Cons:

• No resin fill level indicator

Elegoo Saturn vs Anycubic Photon Mono X – At A Glance

With introductions done and dusted, let’s pivot to our Anycubic Photon Mono X vs Elegoo Saturn showdown. We’ll dive into the essential features of each printer to determine what sets them apart.

It’s worth noting that the printers are incredibly similar in what they set out to offer makers. Based on our testing, they’re the two best mid-size resin 3D printers you can buy. So, whichever one you opt for, rest assured you’ll be investing in one of the best budget printers out there.

Elegoo Saturn vs Anycubic Photon Mono X – Head-to-Head Comparison

LCD Screen

The Anycubic Photon Mono X comes with an 8.9” 4K monochrome LCD pushing a 3840 x 2400 pixel resolution. In practice, you’re looking at a 50 micron XY resolution. It allows for a layer cure time of 1-2 seconds per layer.

The Elegoo Saturn employs an identical 8.9” 4K monochrome LCD with a 3840 x 2400 resolution, XY axis 50-micron resolution, and 1-2 seconds layer cure time. As they are both monochrome screens, they boast excellent life spans compared to their RGB counterparts. Although, as with any resin MSLA printer, expect to replace the LCD at some point due to natural wear and tear.

Build Volume & Build Plate

This is the main difference.

The Anycubic Photon Mono X’s 192 x 120 x 245 mm build plate is larger than the Elegoo Saturn’s 192 x 120 x 200, so go for the Mono X if you plan to print tall prints.

On the Elegoo Saturn, the build plate is sandblasted, while the Photon Mono X plate has a smooth ground surface finish. While different, both offer solid adhesion and print error negation despite their different finishes.

Certain early models of the Anycubic Photon Mono X had minor build plate issues, but Anycubic remedied the issue in subsequent batches. Though in the extremely unlikely chance any problems surface, the company is more than happy to send out a replacement.

To stress this point, the problem popped up exclusively on the first run of Anycubic Photon Mono X units, so you can buy one safe in the knowledge you won’t have to contend with plate irregularities.

Print Quality

With almost identical specifications, the print quality between the two printers is indistinguishable in our experience. Both deliver solid, reliable results with ultra-fast curing times. Details render beautifully with next to no touch-up work required. They excel particularly well for models, figurines, and miniatures with fine details.

More importantly, squeezing out high-quality prints is near-effortless, thanks to minimal setup and simple bed leveling on both the Anycubic Photon Mono X and Elegoo Saturn.

Result: The machines are on a level playing field in a head-to-head Mono X vs Saturn on print quality alone.

Resin Vat

The Anycubic Photon Mono X and Elegoo Saturn feature solid quality vats and FEP films. Similarly, they both have corner-mounted pouring aids to help reduce mess.

The Anycubic Photon Mono X’s handy resin fill level indicator is something the Elegoo Saturn misses out on, though.

The Anycubic Photon Mono X’s vat also has little padded notches on the underside that elevate it to ensure you won’t scratch up the film when it’s not sitting on the printer.

Turning to performance, we’d lean more towards the Elegoo Saturn, only because the Anycubic Photon Mono X tends to leave more cured resin residue in the vat after prints. Not a deal-breaker, but sifting through the resin for tiny chunks adds to resin printing’s already involved workflow.

Connectivity

The Elegoo Saturn comes with both USB and Ethernet connectivity. We particularly like that Elegoo opted to mount the USB port on the side of the printer, a happy middle ground between convenience and safety. Back-mounted USB ports are a pain to access, while front-mounted ports are prone to accidental knocks and bumps, although the placement is the most convenient.

You’ll find a USB port on the Anycubic Photon Mono X mounted on the side of the printer. It also does away with Ethernet for Wi-Fi. In theory, it is a forward-thinking upgrade. But, in practice, Anycubic decided to mount the antenna inside the cover, not far from the vat, making it somewhat prone to stray resin likely to cause damage. It also has a threaded pit that isn’t flush with the printer’s panel, likely to channel resin into the machine.

Furthermore, this isn’t full Wi-Fi connectivity. It only works when paired with AnyCubic’s mobile app and only offers limited functions: start/pause prints, monitoring, and minor print setting adjustments. There’s no way to pair the Photon Mono X with a slicer to send prints wirelessly to the machine.

Seen through the lens of a Photon Mono X vs. Elegoo Saturn showdown, the Elegoo Saturn is the more streamlined option, despite Anycubic’s attempts at convenience.

Software

The Anycubic Photon Mono X ships with the standard in-house Photon Workshop slicer. It’s also compatible with both Lychee and ChiTuBox. Photon Workshop is a decent slicer, though support generation tends to work better with third-party alternatives and the overall interface isn’t particularly beginner-friendly.

The Elegoo Saturn is also compatible with ChiTuBox, a powerful, intuitive slicer that should cover all your resin printing needs.

ChiTuBox’s clean interface lends itself well to beginners jumping in for the first time, with easy drain hole hollowing, support generation, and auto-layout tools that simplify some of the trickier aspects of resin slicing. We recommend it for your resin printing projects.

Post-Processing

As expected, resin post-processing is a messy business with the Anycubic Photon Mono X and Elegoo Saturn, an unavoidable part of bringing prints to life. Naturally, you can piece together your own DIY cleaning setup, but there are other options.

Anycubic’s Wash & Cure Machine 2.0 sets you back around $130, while Elegoo asks for around roughly the same for the Elegoo Mercury Plus Washing and Curing Machine.

Both feature wash and cure modes with adjustable cure times along with handy accessories like cleaning baskets, turntables, and a washing container.

Price

Right now as we write this, the Mono X is $50 cheaper than the Elegoo Saturn but generally they’re similarly priced. However, take this with a pinch of salt – sales are often on, and prices generally change often.

We’ve linked to where you can find both the Mono X and Elegoo Saturn in every major online store below, so you can see the most up-to-date prices and get the best deal for you.

OVERALL TOP PICK

Anycubic Mono X

Available at:

Anycubic here Amazon here

CONSISTENT PICK

Elegoo Saturn

Available at:

Elegoo here Amazon here

Such a slight price difference complicates singling out a winner for pure value alone, but if they’re similarly priced, the extra 45mm on the z-axis for us is a convincer to go with the Mono X.

Elegoo Saturn vs Anycubic Photon Mono X: The Winner

Elegoo Saturn vs Anycubic Photon Mono X – Best Overall

While the Elegoo Saturn is easier to connect, we’d still opt for the Anycubic Mono X for the 45mm extra height you get packed in. If you don’t plan to print tall figures or other prints then this won’t matter to you, but it tips the scales in favor in the Mono X for us.

Though despite the smaller build volume, the Elegoo Saturn still has enough printing space to suit demanding applications such as miniature making, modeling, tabletop gaming, cosplay, and even proof-of-concept prototyping and small-batch runs.

Overall, both printers suit hobbyists and small, modest businesses that want fast, detail-rich, and reliable printing.

If you want extra print quality however, you can check out the upgraded Anycubic Mono X 6K and Elegoo Saturn S versions.

OVERALL TOP PICK

Anycubic Mono X

Available at:

Anycubic here Amazon here

CONSISTENT PICK

Elegoo Saturn

Available at:

Elegoo here Amazon here

Elegoo Saturn vs Anycubic Photon Mono X – Best For Larger Prints

The Elegoo Saturn and Anycubic Photon Mono X measure up as mid-sized machines by resin printing standards. You get far more space to work with than, say, the diminutive Elegoo Mars, but for that extra Z-axis bump, we recommend the Anycubic Photon Mono X as the best for larger resin print projects. 

The price’s steady downward trajectory means you can pick one up for a little more than what you’d expect to pay for the Elegoo Saturn, with a few choice quality-of-life convenience advantages, including Wi-Fi and a resin level, thrown in.

You also have options for even larger prints with the newer Anycubic Photon M3 Max and Elegoo Saturn 2 releases.

If you’re interested in the entry-level printers Anycubic and Elegoo offer, read our comparison between the Anycubic Photon and Elegoo Mars range.

Other articles you may be interested in:

• Anycubic Photon M3 vs Plus and Max versions
• Anycubic Photon M3 vs Mono 4K vs Mono X/6K
• Elegoo Mars 2 Pro test review
• Flashforge Adventurer 3 Lite vs Adventurer 3 – Compared
• Anycubic Kobra vs Vyper
• Elegoo Jupiter vs Phrozen Sonic Mega 8K / Mighty 8K
• Elegoo Neptune 3 Pro vs 3 vs 2S vs 2 vs 2D vs X
• Elegoo Saturn vs Saturn S vs Saturn 2
• Anycubic Photon M3 Max vs Elegoo Jupiter (& Saturn 2)

The most important software you’ll need to get the most from your Ender 3 are:

• A slicer to convert your STL files into something printable
• CAD modeling software so you can design your own prints from scratch
• Printer-controlling tools for monitoring your device with greater detail
• Firmware to keep your printer running smoothly

This guide will bring you the best Ender 3 software I’ve found from my 2 – 3 years using the printer, guaranteed to improve your prints and enhance the performance of Creality’s flagship low-cost printer. 

Ender 3 Software – Slicers

If there’s one 3D printing program you can’t do without, it’s a slicer. It allows you to transform raw model data into the movement and extrusion instructions needed for the Ender 3 to print a real-world, physical replica.

In other words, a slicer takes you from an STL to a G-Code file that the Ender 3 can interpret and use to create a print.

Here are our top picks for the options for the Ender 3, all of them free and accessible, whatever your current 3D printing experience level. For more, check out our full guide to the best Ender 3 slicers.

Cura

No slicer software boasts quite the same popularity as Ultimaker’s Cura.

Much of this is down to the software being free and open-source, but a rich array of features and an ordered, intuitive interface play a part in why many Ender 3 owners point to Cura as their slicer of choice.

Given that Cura offers pre-set profile and setting configurations for the Ender 3 and Pro, it provides the opportunity to print without any initial tinkering.

Beyond these, over 200 individual settings are laid out in easily scannable categories to fine-tune the Ender 3’s printing performance further.

Cura also pulls off the impressive feat of being suitable for beginners and advanced users alike.

How deep you delve into the intricacies of the slicing process is up to you, with an integrated marketplace at hand to bolster Cura’s toolset with additional features like custom supports or CAD integration should you need them.

Creality Slicer

A retooled and customized version of Cura, Creality Slicer is, to no one’s surprise, Creality’s in-house developed slicer.

The core appeal is that the Ender 3 comes with a microSD card loaded with Creality Slicer’s installation file, eliminating the need to hop on Google and download the requisite files to fire up the Ender 3 and print.

Furthermore, Creality Slicer is geared mainly for the manufacturer’s printer, with well-configured profiles for the Ender 3, Pro, V2, and the latest S1.

As these are tuned by the people most acquainted with the Ender 3’s quirks and intricacies, they tend to offer better results than pre-set configurations available for rival slicing software.

The big ‘but’ here is that Creality Slicer isn’t based on the most recent version of Cura and, therefore, is missing the most up-to-date features, like lightning infills and monotonic order settings.

The breadth of settings isn’t quite on par with Cura as a consequence, but Creality’s focus is on simplicity to not overwhelm first-timers, so the logic for this is sound. 

The interface is more or less identical, though. The only noticeable difference is an ever-present Creality logo tagged onto the UI’s top left and a jazzed-up color scheme.

PrusaSlicer

Though initially designed as a fork of Slic3r for Prusa printers, the free and open-source PrusaSlicer teams up well with the Ender 3.

Unsurprisingly for a program associated with Prusa, it’s user-friendly thanks to a clean and uncluttered interface but also powerful, offering users a range of sophisticated slicing settings and tools.

PrusaSlicer comes preloaded with well-tuned profiles for the Ender 3 and Pro along with the V2 and S1, something Cura doesn’t do.

Far from ballpark default settings, the profiles rival Creality Slicer for just how well they dial in the Ender 3’s performance.

An ideal pick if talk of retraction speeds and infill densities leaves you baffled. 

Prusa’s also includes an Ender 3 BL Touch profile, a nice touch for those who’ve made the upgrade, and over 150 auto-updating filament presets for the most popular brands out there.

Once you’ve nailed the jargon and have some printing experience under your belt, PrusaSlicer opens up to a wealth of customizable settings and tools. These include variable layer heights, an STL repair function, a paint-on seam tool, and in-depth print time analysis – to name a few.

Ender 3 Software – CAD Software

Have an exciting idea or concept you need to bring to life before sending it to the Ender 3 for printing? CAD software is a must-have, allowing you to model and design your very own objects and parts from scratch.

Fusion 360

A professional-grade CAD program for free? That’s precisely what Fusion 360 proposes if used for non-commercial, hobbyist ends or in an educational setting. 

Developed by AutoDesk, the developer behind the industry-standard AutoCAD, Fusion 360 is a comprehensive and powerful modeling tool that doesn’t pull any punches when it comes to features and functionality.

If you can dream it up, Fusion 360 can bring it to life.

Having all this at your fingertips may stir up worries of it being too daunting, but Fusion 360’s layout and interface won’t overwhelm or confuse you.

Stacks of free tutorials and more YouTube videos than you’d ever need are at hand to help if anything isn’t clear.

Fusion 360 partners particularly well with the Ender 3 because it features a useful print simulation tool that will stress test the integrity of your model specifically for 3D printing.

It also bundles in slicer-like tools, like automatic orientation and support generation, to ease sending your part through a slicing program.

TinkerCAD

As easy on the eye as it is to model parts and objects for 3D printing, TinkerCAD is the beginner maker’s 3D modeling tool of choice.

It comes from the same developer behind Fusion 360 and AutoCAD, so it bundles in plenty of CAD pedigree and is a free, browser-based application to boot.

Inspired by the likes of Lego, TinkerCAD gives you access to a selection of basic solid geometric shapes that you can cut, combine, and sculpt into a 3D model, then add in text, holes, and color as required.

It’s elegant in its simplicity, and despite its child-friendly appeal, can create all manner of parts ready for 3D printing.

TinkerCAD has a free library of starter projects and easily digested tutorials to help you get started if you’re struggling for inspiration.

You can also export models as STL files, ready to send for slicing, then on to the Ender 3 for printing.

Ender 3 Software – 3D Printer Controller Application

​​If you want more Ender 3 control and monitoring options beyond what the fiddly rotary knob and cramped touchscreen offer, then you may want to consider a 3D printer controller application.

Octoprint

OctoPrint is an open-source, free, and browser-based interface for controlling and monitoring the Ender 3 and the printing process.

It’s an advanced tool, so it might be overwhelming for beginners. However, advanced users who want complete control over the Ender 3 shouldn’t sleep on the program.

From OctoPrint, you can:

• Remotely trigger/pause/stop prints from anywhere
• Monitor and check print progress without babysitting the machine
• Check on hot end and bed temperatures
• Tinker with parameters on the fly
• Visualize bed leveling
• Key in custom commands
• Capture print time-lapses
• and much more…

OctoPrint is compatible with virtually all consumer 3D printers, including the Ender 3 in all its guises.

Better yet as it relates to the Ender 3 family, OctoPrint allows you to update the machine’s firmware easily and quickly.

The OctoPrint plugin repository houses dozens of add-ons.

Nifty options include error detection that automatically sends an email if a print goes awry, integration with Google Drive to access STL and G-Code files remotely and quickly, and a print scheduler to fire off a print at a specified time.

We’re scratching the surface here as there’s plenty more to fine-tune your Ender 3 workflow and printing experience.

Firmware

Although not technically software, firmware is an integral part of the Ender 3 ecosystem.

Freshening up your firmware regularly not only grants access to the latest version and the latest features but can be a potent way to squash any bugs or issues your Ender 3 may be coughing up.

Note that upgrading the Ender 3 and Pro’s firmware requires flashing the mainboard with a bootloader via a microcontroller like an Arduino UNO before uploading the new version.

It sounds more intimidating than it is, so don’t be put off.

As for Ender 3 V2 and Ender 3 S1, which both ship with a bootloader, upgrading the firmware is done via microSD card; easy and straightforward.

Official Creality Firmware

If you’re looking for an easy way to upgrade your Ender 3 firmware and guarantee stability, the Official Creality Ender 3 firmware is likely your best bet.

It comes with an official stamp of approval for Creality and is tuned perfectly for the Ender 3, removing the need to dive into the code to mold it to suit your printer.

Creality offers a version for every Ender 3 under the sun, including the 8-bit and 32-bit variants, even bespoke versions for specific upgrades, such as a BLTouch bed leveling probe and a filament runout sensor.

If you’ve snapped up an original Ender 3 with older firmware, upgrading to the Official Creality Ender 3 firmware automatically adds thermal runaway protection to the printer.

It’s a vital safety upgrade that doesn’t require any hardware add-ons.

TH3D Unified Firmware

Another solid and accessible firmware for the Ender 3 is TH3D’s Unified Firmware.

It takes the most recent stable version of Marlin 2.0 and adds a few unique features to improve the Ender 3’s basic firmware.

TH3D puts the firmware through a strenuous stability testing regime to ensure a bug-free experience.

Pre-configured versions of TH3D Unified Firmware for the Ender 3 in all its incarnations are also available, all designed to work without the need to alter the underlying code.

As for the extra features TH3D offers, these include PID autotuning, preheating for specific filaments, assisted bed leveling, and support for different Ender 3 upgrades such as E3D V6 hot ends.

TH3D Unified Firmware rivals the official Creality Ender 3 firmware for ease of use, with a real focus on removing the more daunting aspects of firmware.

It offers even green beginners a seamless route to a better-performing Creality printer.

Ender 3 Software – FAQs

Other related articles we recommend:

• Ender 3 vs Ender 5
• Ender 5 vs Ender 5 Pro vs Ender 5 Plus
• Creality Ender 3 Dual Extruder 
• Ender 3 Laser Engraver 
• Ender 3 Alternatives
• How to Install/Update Jyers Firmware on Ender 3 V2

For about 80% of users, the best slicer for Ender 3 is Cura. It’s a free slicer that is approachable for beginners – but with enough features for experienced users to achieve complex prints.

That said, genuine professionals should consider Simplify3D, which has a ton of advanced tools like a built-in scripting engine and pre-print simulation.

Over the past few years, I’ve tried basically all of the Ender 3 slicers out there – and there are a few key differences that either help or hinder you based on where you are in your 3d printing journey.

In this guide, I’ll walk you through the 5 most popular Ender 3 slicers so you can decide which is the most appropriate for your needs.

(All of these slicers work for the Pro, V2, and S1 variants, too)

3DSourced is reader-supported. When you buy through links on our site, we may earn an affiliate commission. Learn more

Best Slicer For Ender 3

Cura – Best Slicer Overall

• Price: Free
• Operating System Compatibility: Windows, macOS, Linux

Developed and regularly maintained by Ultimaker and likely the most popular slicer under the sun, Cura pairs effortlessly with the Ender 3.

Its approachability and versatility offer everyone from beginners who’ve never touched a slicer to seasoned experts everything they need to make the most of Creality’s star printer.

Cura’s interface is responsive and fast, loading even the heftiest STL file in lightning-fast time while churning out sliced G-Code equally rapidly.

Furthermore, the UI displays tools and options logically and intuitively, morphing from a neat basic features template to an expanded settings-rich layout for advanced users with a single click.

Cura ships with pre-set original Ender 3 and the Ender 3 Pro, but not for the Ender 3 V2 and S1, though the basic Ender 3 profile offers a solid starting point. The default settings are fine-tuned to get the best out of the Ender 3/Pro with minimal fuss. 

There are also Ender 3-specific profiles for all the most popular filament types, including PLA, ABS, TPU, and more.

If you’re running the Ender 3 V2 or S1, a quick visit to the Ender 3 Reddit, and you’ll find no shortage of recommended settings/profiles from experienced users.

Should you want to customize, there are hundreds of settings to tinker your way to a perfect print.

These cover infills, retraction, support generation, first-layer adhesion, print speed, and cooling, to name a few. You can dial in virtually every aspect of the Ender 3’s printing process.

The options don’t stop there, either, thanks to a thriving add-on marketplace, with plugins (many of them community-generated = free) covering everything from Blender integration to custom supports.

Creality Slicer – The Default Slicer

• Price: Free
• Operating System Compatibility: Windows, macOS

Compared to Cura, Creality Slicer is somewhat of a hard sell.

It’s designed to work with Creality printers, including the Ender 3, but the program is a customized, less complex version of Cura. The feature set and variety of tweakable settings broadly match Cura’s.

If anything, there are fewer of them.

However, Creality Slicer’s biggest advantage when printing with an Ender 3 is that it comes on the microSD that ships with the printer.

No need to hunt down and download installation files for the latest version.

Another major benefit of using Creality Slicer is that the stripped-back UI and functionality offer a gentle introduction to slicing software for beginners than Cura.

Additionally, unlike Cura, Creality Slicer includes well-tuned templates for the Ender 3 in all its incarnations, including the Ender 3 V2 and S1.

From our experience, these pre-set profiles work great, especially if you’ve snapped up a factory-fresh Ender 3 and just want to get printing without diving into the settings.

Creality Slicer is very much the beginner’s slicer, an easy stepping stone to assimilate the fundamentals before shifting to a more powerful and customizable slicer for Ender 3 like Cura or PrusaSlicer.

It’s free, too, and Creality pumps out regular updates to keep it spick-and-span.

Simplify3D – Best Slicer for Professionals

• Price: Two-week trial, $149
• Operating System Compatibility: Windows, macOS

Simplify3D is a premium slicer with a distinct professional flavor for seasoned makers and businesses looking for more control and customization than from the likes of Cura.

Like most of our recommendations, Simplify3D includes preconfigured profiles for the Ender 3, Pro, and V2.

Thanks to a demanding testing and optimizing process, these aren’t just a good-enough default but optimized settings guaranteed to produce super quality prints with next to no user input.

Should you want to move away from the profiles, Simplify3D includes professional tools and advanced options to tinker your heart out.

These range from variable print settings, a built-in scripting engine, realistic pre-print simulation, some of the best support generation in the business, and even an STL repair function to patch up mesh issues before committing to a print.

We’re just scratching the surface of the depth of control the program proposes.

But what we like most is that though Simplify3D fully deserves its billing as a professional slicer, it presents all this functionality in an uncluttered and reasonably intuitive interface.

​​With a premium price tag, Simplify3D also comes with benefits you just don’t get with a free alternative. With its wide suite of features, I’d recommend it as the best slicer for Ender 3 Pro users.

Among them is access to industry-leading resources designed to help users achieve the best prints possible. Additionally, Simplify3D offers access to a crack team of 3D printing experts, ready to help troubleshoot issues and provide suggestions.

PrusaSlicer – A Versatile Slicer Tool

• Price: Free
• Operating System Compatibility: Windows, macOS, Linux

PrusaSlicer is Prusa’s free in-house developed slicer based on Slic3r (which we’ll cover below), initially designed for the Original Prusa i3 MK2.

It’s since evolved into an open-source tool that works well with printers beyond Prusa’s stable, including the Ender 3.

Prusa’s signature commitment to quality while maintaining a user-friendly experience is evident throughout PrusaSlicer. It’s presented simply and clearly, while still containing many advanced options should you want to dive in and make changes yourself.

There are three modes available – simple, advanced, and expert.

Each offers progressively more sophisticated tools and settings as you jump up the rungs, making it suitable for beginner and advanced users alike.

PrusaSlicer comes with built-in profiles for third-party printers, including the Ender 3, Ender 3 V2, Ender 3 S1, and even an Ender 3 BL Touch configuration for those who’ve made the jump to automatic bed leveling, one of the most popular Ender 3 upgrades.

The slicer also proposes over 150 auto-updating profiles for different filament types and brands, each one tested and developed by Prusa themselves to guarantee optimal results.

If you’ve test-driven Cura or Creality Slicer but aren’t satisfied with the results and need a more refined option, PrusaSlicer might be just the ticket.

Slic3r – Slicer with the Most Features

• Price: Free
• Operating System Compatibility: Windows, macOS, Linux

Slic3r is a powerful and versatile free and open-source slicer that’s been around for over a decade, born from the early RepRap community’s need for a reliable slicing tool.

In a sense, it’s a foundational piece of 3D printing history and is responsible for developing many of the tools and features that are now ubiquitous in all other slicing software.

Brims, multiple extruder support, variable layer heights – all can be traced back to Slic3r and its active community of developers.

Though Slic3r comes with decent pre-configured Ender 3 profiles to get you up and running, Slic3r’s main appeal lies in the richness of the customizable settings.

If anything, the options available can be overwhelming for beginners, making Slic3r very much a choice for advanced users.

However, if you’ve got the stomach for sifting through a dizzying range of features and want complete control over every aspect of the slicing process, there’s very little Slic3r can’t convert into a high-quality print.

Things to Consider When Choosing a Slicer for Ender 3

All slicers can take you from a raw STL (or other formats) to a printer-ready G-Code file.

None are so disastrously bad as to hinder your ability to pump out a print with the Ender 3. But, peer at the details, and a lot sets them apart.

Here are a few points to keep in mind when choosing a slicer:

Price – After laying down bills for the Ender 3 itself, the last thing you’ll likely want is to spend even more on a slicer license. Reach a certain level of experience, and the basic functionality of a rudimentary, free slicer may no longer be enough to match your printing ambitions.

Ease-of-Use and Interface – Does a slicer present you with a busy, confounding interface, or does it have a sleek, streamlined user interface with neatly organized settings that won’t have you immediately darting to close the program?

Similarly, is it user-friendly, even to beginners with zilch experience, or does it have you navigate a steep learning curve?

Operating System – Possibly an obvious consideration, is the slicer compatible with your operating system? Windows, macOS, Linux? Is it browser-based?

Unique Features – Does a slicer have a unique feature that stands out from others, like advanced settings, STL repair, or built-in modeling tools? Is it known to play nice with the Ender 3 or not? What about integration for printer control, monitoring, and management applications like OctoPrint?

Printer Profiles – While a broad range of settings to customize is a sure sign of at least a decent quality slicer, does it have pre-configured Ender 3, Pro, V2, and S1 profiles? What about pre-set profiles for different filament types like PLA, ABS, and others?

You’ll invariably want to experiment and dial in settings at some point, but tuned templates should guide and ease those first few prints and hours before you get to grips with the settings.

Community Support and Troubleshooting – A good slicer for Ender 3 is nothing without the backing of an active community to share profiles, tips and tricks, or provide invaluable troubleshooting help.

Similarly, does the developer push out regular updates and bug fixes to keep the slicer in tip-top condition?

FAQs

If you liked this post, you may be interested in our other Ender 3 software posts to help you get the most out of your 3D printer:

• The Top Free Ender 3 Software
• Which Ender 3 (Pro/V2) Firmware is the Best?

You can really improve performance by using the best print settings for TPU and upgrading your hardware with some simple mods.

Once you’ve made these changes, you’ll get better prints across other flexible filament types, too – not just TPU.

And if that sounds like too much hard work, we’ll touch on a few alternatives to the Ender 3 that will make perfect TPU prints right out of the box.

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Can The Ender 3 Print TPU?

In theory, the Ender 3 is equipped to print TPU, checking off all the specification criteria, chiefly a max extruder temperature of 255°C, well above the 210°C-230°C required to print the filament.

However, due to the way the Ender 3, Pro, and V2 are designed, producing quality prints can be quite a struggle.

This is mainly down to these three models employing a Bowden extruder.

In a Bowden system, the stepper motor sits on the frame rather than the print head, feeding filament through a long Bowden tube made of PTFE plastic to the print head for melting and printing onto the bed.

This isn’t an issue for fairly stiff filaments like PLA and ABS, but can cause flexibles like TPU to bend and jam/clog in the extruder or tubing due to their rubber-like properties.

Due to the long filament path between the motor and hot end in the Bowden system, there can also be minor delays in printing processes such as retraction, leading to problems like stringing.

Fortunately, there are ways to mitigate these issues, reducing them to a sporadic occurrence rather than a guaranteed headache every time you try to print TPU on the Ender 3. More on that below.

3D Printing TPU on Ender 3 S1 and S1 Pro

Here’s what I recommend when printing TPU on the Ender 3 S1 and Ender S1 Pro:

• Extruder Temperature – 220°C
• Bed Temperature – 60°C
• Print Speed – 30-40 mm/s. Though the Ender 3 S1 and Ender 3 S1 Pro have an easier time taming TPU, a slower print speed always improves part and model quality.
• Retraction – 1 mm at 60 mm/s offers a great starting point with a balance of distance and speed adapted to the S1’s direct drive extruder.

The Ender 3 S1 largely sidesteps most TPU issues because the printer has a ‘Sprite’ full-metal dual-gear direct drive extruder. The direct drive system forgoes the lengthy Bowden tubing entirely, mounting the stepper motor and gears onto the print head.

Not only is the filament path vastly shorter, reducing the chances of bending and clogging, but the dual gears provide additional traction and pressure-feeds TPU into the extruder more smoothly.

The result is that the Ender 3 S1 has a far easier time printing TPU than on previous Ender 3 printers.

Ender 3 S1 Pro is available for $479 — Available at Creality store here

Read our full review: Creality Ender 3 S1 Pro hands-on review

Recommended Slicer Settings for Printing TPU with Ender 3

• Extruder Temperature – 220°C
• Bed Temperature – 60°C
• Print Speed – 25-30 mm/s is a good range as TPU performs best at slower print speeds on the Ender 3. You may even want to slow down to 10 mm/s for the first layer if you’re having adhesion issues.
• Retraction – Start with 3 mm at 20 mm/s, then look to shorten the distance, if possible. The idea here is to limit unnecessary movement in the Bowden tube that could cause bending and clogging, but not have retraction so low as to cause stringing.

The easiest way to improve the Ender 3’s performance with TPU is through targeted hardware upgrades.

But, we know that not everyone has the budget, inclination, or DIY experience to do that. So, one of the easiest ways to up your chances of success with TPU is by dialing your slicer settings.

There’s no magical solution here.

Filament brand and the quirks of your particular Ender 3 model mean you’ll need to tinker and experiment to find the optimum settings, but here’s what we recommend to get you started.

Best TPU Slicer Settings for Ender 3 Pro

The best slicer settings for printing TPU with an Ender 3 Pro are very different from those we’d use for the classic Ender 3, with a higher print speed and shorter retraction distance.

• Extruder Temperature – 220-230°C
• Bed Temperature – 60°C
• Print Speed – 40 mm/s is an ideal starting point for the Ender 3 Pro, but you’ll want to experiment with a slightly higher or lower number if you’re not getting optimal results
• Retraction – 2-3 mm at 20 mm/s, though don’t hesitate to drop quite close to zero if stringing is a real issue.

Best TPU Slicer Settings for Ender 3 V2

The Ender 3 V2 still relies on a Bowden extruder system, so settings for TPU are more or less the same as those for the Ender 3, but with a few minor tweaks to retraction speed and distance.

Here are the best slicer settings for printing TPU with an Ender 3 V2:

• Extruder Temperature – 220°C
• Bed Temperature – 60°C
• Print Speed – 30 mm/s produces the most consistent results, though you can bump it up to around 40 mm/s without too much loss of quality or intrusive stringing if cutting down print times is crucial to your project.
• Retraction – 2 mm at 20 mm/s is the ideal retraction setup for most Ender 3 V2 printers, but as always it’s a case of honing in on what works best for you.

Slicer Settings for Printing TPU with Ender 3 V2 Neo

Though the Ender 3 V2 Neo benefits from many quality-of-life improvements, it retains a Bowden extruder setup rather than a direct drive extruder. 

This means it has all the same issues printing TPU as the original Ender 3 V2, and slicer settings must be carefully dialed to avoid stringing and other typical issues you encounter printing with the material. 

Here are my recommended slicer settings for printing TPU with the Ender 3 V2 Neo:

• Extruder Temperature – 220°C
• Bed Temperature – 60°C
• Print Speed – 30 mm/s should do the trick, though dropping the speed a bit if you are still experiencing issues is recommended.
• Retraction – 0.8-1 mm at 30-40 mm/s should set you up for success. But as always, don’t hesitate to tweak upwards and downwards in small increments to find that sweet spot for your specific printer and setup.

Other Ways to Optimize TPU Printing on The Ender 3

With slice settings out of the way, we can turn to more practical, hands-on ways to optimize TPU printing on the Ender 3.

Z Offset – Though TPU falls roughly in the category of filaments that fare best when pushed or ‘squished’ into the bed, it prefers less pressure than PLA or ABS. Therefore, we recommend lengthening your Z offset (nozzle-bed distance) a tad to give TPU a bit more breathing room as it gets deposited.

Adhesion – To counteract TPU’s tendency to latch onto and stick to the nozzle, apply your favorite adhesive to the printed bed (especially if you own an Ender 3 with a glass bed) to help secure a solid first-layer. Glue and hairspray are good options.

TPU Shore Hardness

We recommend avoiding TPU with a shore hardness rating that’s too low to avoid heightening the potential for problems. Anything around or above 90A, ideally 95A, should do the job, so be sure to check before buying.

You can buy TPU filament in a variety of colors but also with different flexibility properties.

You’ve likely come across the term shore hardness when browsing TPU brands on Amazon and the like, possibly 90A or 95A, for example.

Put simply; shore hardness is the reading obtained when a material is tested with a Shore durometer, a device designed to measure the hardness of a material. The higher the number, the more resistance a material has to pressure and indentations.

When printing TPU on the Ender 3, this matters because, as we mentioned above, TPU’s flexibility is at the root of most issues.

Upgrades to Optimize TPU Print Results

Now that we covered the steps you can take to improve TPU printing with the stock Ender 3 configurations, let’s look at hardware modifications and upgrades, both DIY and buyable.

Easy 3D Printed Extruder Upgrade

One of the most cost-efficient and easiest upgrades you can make to the Ender 3 is to print and install this ‘Flexible Filament Extruder Upgrade,’ available for free on Thingiverse. 

It’s designed to shorten the gap in the extruder that can lead to TPU bending and jamming issues by using a small PTFE insert to guide the filament.

It works great and is relatively easy to install, especially if you follow this YouTube tutorial.

Replace The Extruder

If 3D printing an upgrade isn’t your cup of tea, there are buyable extruder upgrade options, including all-metal ones, a major improvement over the Ender 3’s plastic parts. 

The SeeMeCNC EZR Struder, E3D Titan Extruder, and Creality’s own Aluminum MK8 Extruder are solid options that eliminate TPU extruder jamming and bending. They vastly improve filament feeding, making it much smoother.

Most are easily installed atop the stepper motor, so it shouldn’t be too taxing for even those with limited 3D printer DIY experience.

You can also consider upgrading your Creality Ender 3 to a dual extruder if you’re looking to combine multiple materials in a single print.

Bowden Tube

Upgrading the Ender 3, Pro, and V2’s Bowden tube can drastically reduce instances of bending and ease feeding filament from the extruder to the print nozzle.

Though a simple part-for-part replacement can do wonders for a heavily-used Ender 3, we recommend going for a higher-quality tube. 

Capricorn’s PTFE tubing is widely regarded as one of the best options. The Capricorn XS tubing features a tighter inner diameter and lubricating additives to reduce friction and avoid clogging and jamming.

Creality sells a Capricorn tube and MK8 extruder bundle for under $20.00.

Direct Drive System

Upgrading to a direct drive extruder should eliminate most if not all TPU printing obstacles.

It’s a drastic option that requires some major changes to the Ender 3, but one that opens the door to superb quality flexible filament printing. 

Why? The main benefit is that a direct drive system removes the Bowden tubing from the equation.

The stepper motor is mounted in the print head, allowing the filament to be fed directly to the hot end. A smaller filament path and no Bowden tube to navigate means an end to TPU jamming, bending, and clogging issues.

A direct drive system also improves retraction responsiveness.

As for options, we recommend steering towards direct drive upgrade kits, as they provide all the necessary parts for the upgrade.

The Micro Swiss Direct Drive Extruder rates as one of the best out there for the quality of the parts offered. The kit (with an all-metal hot end) costs around $100, so it isn’t exactly cheap.

It’s compatible with the Ender 3, Pro, and V2.

Printing Other Flexible Filaments

TPU is by far the most popular flexible option for hobbyists because it’s the easiest to work because it’s more rigid and durable relative to others. However, you can use the Ender 3 to print others like TPE and TPC, though you’ll encounter the same issues, likely amplified.

We recommend sticking to flexibles around 95A as a general rule for the best results if you are using the stock Ender 3, Pro, and V2 configuration.

The Ender 3 S1 will allow you to lower the shore rating to 90A.

Alternative 3D Printers for TPU

All things considered, we’d understand if you’d rather sidestep the Ender 3 entirely if the bulk of your printing involves using TPU.

Here are a few choice alternative 3D printers well equipped to handle flexibles.

Ender 3 S1

• Price: $479 – Available at Creality store here / Amazon here

Though technically an Ender 3, the Ender 3 S1 Pro deserves a mention thanks to Creality weaving in some great upgrades to make it not just an all-around better Ender 3 but a printer suited to printing TPU.

The Sprite direct drive extruder leads the charge here, taking most TPU-related headaches out of the mix.

It also features a quality PC spring steel magnetic removable bed and 16-point automatic bed leveling.

Anycubic Kobra

• Price: Check price at Anycubic store here / Amazon here

The latest to join the Anycubic’s FDM range, the Anycubic Kobra is a direct drive 3D printer that doesn’t cost all that much more than the stock Ender 3.

It produces excellent TPU prints out of the box.

Features include reliable automatic bed leveling, a textured removable magnetic bed, and a sleek touch screen interface. Check out our Anycubic Kobra review to learn more.

Prusa i3 MK3S+

• Price: $749 as a kit / $999 assembled – Available at Prusa store here

FDM royalty and unrivaled king of desktop printing, the Prusa i3 MK3S+ is one of the best alternatives out there.

It features a direct drive system, E3D V6 hot end, superPINDA probe-led automatic bed leveling, and a vast range of fail-safe checks and sensors to ensure quality TPU prints with little effort.

At $750, it doesn’t come cheap, but the Prusa i3 MK3S+ is the type of printer you’ll stay loyal to for years to come.

FAQs

• Which Filament is Better for Ender 3 (Pro/V2): PLA, ABS, TPU, or PETG?
• 3D Printing Speed: Best Settings for All Filaments
• Best 3D Printing TPU and Flexible Filament in 2023

We’re here to help: we continuously update this best 3D printer guide with the latest 3D printer reviews, and we’ve tested over a dozen 3D printers on this site to create this buyer’s guide.

If you’re in a rush, here’s our 3 top picks:

BUDGET OPTION

Creality Ender 3 V2

Reliable low-cost 3D printer

Easily upgradable with a wide range of printable or purchasable upgrades

Improved print bed for better adhesion

Available At Creality Here Amazon here

RESIN PICK

Anycubic Photon Mono X

High-quality mid-range resin 3D printer

Fast 60mm/h resin printing

Powerful 4K LCD screen for precise details and miniatures

Available at Anycubic here Amazon Here

PREMIUM PICK

Prusa i3 MK3S+

Gold standard in DIY FDM 3D printing

Super reliable workhorse

Upgradable to print 5 colors simultaneously

Available At Prusa here

What makes a good 3D printer?

We used the following criteria, along with our hands-on experience, to make our top picks:

• Print quality: resolutions, accuracy and consistency
• Build volume: not a problem if you just want to print miniatures, but bigger can be better
• Reliability: especially important in cheap printers, we picked durable printers that work reliably
• Versatility: from the range of materials you can print, to any extras such as a dual extruder, enclosure, and more
• Easy to use: easy assembly, simple and intuitive to set up, and straightforward slicer software

We’ve split our recommended picks into different categories to help you find the best 3D printer based on your needs.

Then, below we have our full product reviews of each printer with the full details, and where to get the best price.

Here’s the full list:

Best Under $300

For new and experienced makers alike, finding the best 3D printer without breaking the bank is important.

3DSourced is reader-supported. When you buy through links on our site, we may earn an affiliate commission. Learn more

Creality Ender 3 V2 — best 3D printer for the price

• Price: Check price at Creality Official Store here / Available on Amazon here
• Build volume: 220 x 220 x 250 mm

One of the leading 3D printers for $200, the Creality Ender 3 V2 is a very powerful machine for the price. It can be assembled in under an hour, and also features a heated bed.

An affordable workhorse 3D printer, the Ender 3 V2 is known for its reliability, churning out part after part without issue. The open printing area means it isn’t ideal for tougher filaments like ABS or Nylon, but as a PLA 3D printer it works well.

The Ender 3 V2 features a number of small but useful improvements on the best-selling Ender 3. The print volume is the same, but the print bed is now carborundum glass mounted on an aluminum bed, improving adhesion and making removing finished prints easier than on the previous magnetic bed. The HD screen is better than the original LCD interface, a small but pleasant quality-of-life improvement.

If you’re going to be spending $200 on a 3D printer, you can’t expect the quality to be flawless. If you want a Creality 3D printer and you have an extra $200 – upgrade to the Ender 3 S1 Pro, which also features on this ranking. I’ve also tested and reviewed the Ender 3 V2 Neo previously.

Anycubic Photon Mono 4K

• Price: Check price at Anycubic Official here / Amazon here
• Build Volume: 165 x 132 x 80 mm
• Bed Leveling: Manual
• LCD: 6.23” 4K monochrome LCD
• XY Resolution: 35 microns
• Filament Compatibility: Resin
• Connectivity: USB

The Anycubic Photon Mono 4K is a major upgrade on the standard Photon Mono, retaining the simplicity of the original while pumping up the XY resolution from 50 to 35 microns to put it in line with the pricier Mars Elegoo 3.

This major shift comes courtesy of a pivot to a 6.23″ LCD pushing 3,840 x 2,400 pixels. Although the 165 x 132 x 80 mm tails behind the Mars 3’s 143 x 90 x 165 mm, it still offers ample space for most resin-based home projects and then some.

The 1-2 second cure time remains identical to the original Mono, but you’re effectively able to produce the same prints in the same time frame but at a higher overall quality. Elsewhere, the 4K jumps to a new 15-LED matrix parallel light source that allows for more uniform light distribution, resulting in richer details.

So why opt for the Anycubic Photon Mono 4K over the Elegoo Mars 3? While the Mars 3 offers a sleeker overall printing experience, the Anycubic Photon Mono 4K just about keeps in pure specifications and print quality, all for $80 less.

If you’re after that sweet spot between spending as little as possible but still want a reliable, quality resin 3D printer, the Anycubic Photon Mono 4K hits the mark.

Elegoo Mars 2 Pro / Mars 3

BUDGET PICK

Elegoo Mars 2 Pro

Print Volume: 129 x 80 x 160 mm

Screen size: 6.08″ 2K Monochrome LCD

XY Resolution: 50 microns

Speed: 30-50 mm/h

Cleaning/Curing: Elegoo Mercury Plus/X

Available at:

Elegoo here Amazon here

PREMIUM PICK

Elegoo Mars 3

Print Volume: 143 x 90 x 175 mm

Screen resolution: 6.6″ 4K LCD

XY Resolution: 35 microns

Speed: 1.5-3 seconds per layer

Cleaning/Curing: Elegoo Mercury Plus/X

Available at:

Elegoo here Matterhackers here Amazon here

We were very impressed when we tried out the Elegoo Mars 2 Pro – especially for such a low price. It was easy to set up and get started, and the surface finish on our prints was fantastic.

However, you can upgrade from the Mars 2 Pro’s 2K screen to the Mars 3’s 4K screen if your budget can stretch that far, offering crisper details and ultra-fast 1.5-second layer curing.

The Elegoo Mars 2 Pro’s quality is great, and should be more than enough to print good-looking miniatures and models. The Mars 3 is not a necessity, but if you do want to overhaul the resolution and quality, go for the Mars 3.

The Mars 3 also has a larger build area: 143 x 90 x 165 mm, vs the Mars 2 Pro’s 129 x 90 x 150 mm. You can print 15mm taller models, and you have 14mm on the X-axis for printing more miniature models at the same time.

For XY resolution, the Mars 3 clocks in at 35 microns, an improvement on the Mars 2 Pro’s 50 microns. However, both are very well-made, with robust parts and CNC machined aluminum bodies.

So, if you’re fine with the 2K LCD screen, smaller build area and slightly slower print speed, then the Mars 2 Pro is a great budget pick. But if you want those extra upgrades, go for the Mars 3 – or even the Mars 3 Pro. The Mars 3 also comes with a year’s free ChiTuBox Pro, which usually costs $150+.

Read more: our review of the Elegoo Mars 2 Pro

Toybox: Best For Kids & Complete Beginners

• Price: $299 – Available at Toybox Official store here
• Build volume: 70 x 80 x 90 mm

The Toybox isn’t your high-tech, workhorse 3D printer to start a business with, but it is one of the simplest and most accessible 3D printers we’ve ever tested – ideal for kids and beginners. 

The build volume is small – just 70 x 80 x 90 mm, but if you have modest 3D printing goals to print miniatures and other fun characters, it’s a great choice. 

Toybox have partnered with numerous big players to bring you a huge range of free models you can 3D print too, from Batman and Wonder Woman, to fun 3D printable dragons, tanks, cars, and so much more.

For kids it’s super safe: it only prints low-temperature PLA, and any hot parts are kept well away from prying hands. You get small spools of many different color filaments to print away with – affectionately called 3D printer “food” by Toybox – and we found it to be reliable yet super accessible.

If you’re brand new and want a hassle-free run, or want to get your kids into 3D printing cheaply, the Toybox is great. You can also read our full Toybox 3D printer review, as well as our round-up of the best 3D printers for beginners.

Anycubic Kobra – best under $300

• Price: Check price at Anycubic here / Amazon here
• Build Volume: 220 x 220 x 250 mm
• Bed Leveling: Yes, LeviQ automatic bed leveling
• Build Platform: PEI-coated spring steel heated bed
• Filament Compatibility: PLA / ABS / PETG / TPU
• Connectivity: USB, SD Card

The Anycubic Kobra delivers incredible value for the asking price, with a spec sheet that reads like one for a printer twice its price. We were lucky enough to review the Anycubic Kobra, and despite some minor slicer issues, we were thoroughly impressed with Anycubic’s latest entry-level printer.

Standout features include Anycubic’s in-house developed LeviQ automatic bed leveling and homing system, a PEI-coated spring steel heated bed, a direct drive extruder, and one of the sharpest touch screen UI’s we’ve seen at the price point. It’s frankly baffling to see these types of features on a printer costing less than $300.

The Anycubic Kobra’s budget appeal also extends to the quality of the prints. With a bit of software wrangling, the Kobra is capable of fantastic prints for the price, and the bang-on average 220 x 220 x 250 mm build volume should cover all your everyday 3D printing needs. 

A layer thickness range of 50 to 300 microns and print speeds pushing up to 180 mm/s have you covered for everything from sharp, detailed prints through to quick, functional parts.

Overall, the Anycubic Kobra is an affordable printer that stands out for taking some of the more frustrating and time-consuming aspects of the hobby out of the picture so that you can concentrate on the actual printing.

If you’re a first-timer looking for a gentle introduction to 3D printing, the Anycubic Kobra is arguably the best option out there currently.

And if the build volume isn’t enough, upgrade to either the Kobra Plus or Kobra Max:

• Kobra Plus: 300 x 300 x 350 mm build area – Available here
• Kobra Max: 400 x 400 x 450 mm build area – Available here

Best Under $500

Prusa Mini – Best Premium-Budget Printer

• Price: $350 – Available at Prusa Official here
• Build Volume: 180 x 180 x 180 mm
• Bed Leveling: Yes, SuperPINDA probe
• Build Platform: Removable magnetic spring steel sheets
• Filament Compatibility: PLA, PETG, ASA, ABS, Flex
• Connectivity: USB, Ethernet

With the Prusa Mini, the company leverages all the Prusa i3 MK3S+’s usability and specs into a comparatively affordable printer. The Prusa Mini’s price is entry-level, only marginally higher than you’d pay for the ever-popular Ender 3 and Anycubic Kobra.

It’s a sophisticated 3D printer that focuses on simplicity. It features automatic mesh bed leveling courtesy of a superb SuperPINDA probe, a classy PEI-coated spring steel removable bed, and instructions that are as clear and user-friendly as they come.

The Prusa Mini also pairs well with a broader range of materials than your standard budget printer, covering PLA and ABS along with PETG, ASA, HIPS, and produces decent results with demanding exotics like PC blends and CF-PETG.

However, for all the Mini’s fantastic attributes, it’s abundantly clear where Prusa trimmed the fat, with a rather measly 180 x 180 x 180 build volume.

For the average maker, especially first-timers, the Mini’s build volume should be more than enough for most common print projects. However, if you want to print large models, or large terrain areas for miniatures, opt for an Ender 5 Plus.

Volume aside, the Prusa Mini is a solid premium-budget option for those buying a first printer and even more experienced makers looking to add to their printer line-up.

Ender 3 S1 Pro

• Price: Check latest price at Creality here / Amazon here
• Build volume: 220 x 220 x 270 mm
• Minimum layer height: 0.05mm
• Bed leveling: Automatic
• Max extruder temperature: 300°C

We highly recommend the standard Ender 3 or Ender 3 V2 for a very low-cost FDM kit, but if you want premium features for a couple hundred bucks extra, the Ender 3 S1 Pro is one of the best printers under $500.

We were really impressed with the quality when we printed out some test prints during our Ender 3 S1 3D printer review.

The build volume is mostly the same (270 mm vs 250 mm on z-height) as the standard Ender 3, but the S1 Pro has an all-metal and direct drive extruder, versus the Ender 3’s PTFE bowden extruder. This makes it much easier to print flexibles like TPU, and reduces filament jamming from the generally higher quality extruder.

The S1 Pro can also handle up to 300°C temperatures, so high-temp Nylon and other filaments are no problem – a rarity at under $500. The Ender 3 standard runs up to 255°C, and the Ender 3 S1 (not Pro) can handle 260°C.

Another major advantage is the auto-bed leveling. While you can buy a CRTouch or BLTouch for the Ender 3, it’s a hassle and a time sink, so the Ender 3 S1 and S1 Pro coming with this is a big plus.

The z-axis is also generally sturdier and of higher quality for more reliable and precise printing, and if you do intend to print fine details, the Ender 3 S1 range goes down to 0.05mm layer heights, versus the 0.1mm on the other Ender 3 printers. You can also read our full Ender 3 S1 Pro review.

Anycubic Vyper

• Price: Best price on Anycubic Store / Also Available on Amazon
• Build volume: 245 x 245 x 260 mm

We were impressed with the Anycubic Vyper when we tested it last month. The build volume is impressive, and slightly larger than you’d expect for this price range — yet the printer is compact, and fits on most desktops.

The auto leveling makes life easier and can be done via 1 click, and the Vyper also automatically adjusts your nozzle height for optimum printing. The spring steel magnetic platform makes it easy to remove prints, and its magnetism means you can remove the entire plate, remove your model in a more convenient place, and then click it back into place for your next print.

Though we kept it at the standard 50-60mm/s during our test, Anycubic highlight how the Vyper’s innovative new double fan system lets you print at up to 100mm/s without creating issues. Still, if you’re going to use your printer as a speed demon, be careful when printing very small models.

The large 4.3-inch touchscreen makes printing a breeze, and the layout is intuitive and simple to operate. It doesn’t have WiFi connectivity, but it’s very easy to move models from Cura to the SD card and print them on the Vyper. Overall, it’s a good compact 3D printer for home makers. You can read more in our full Anycubic Vyper review.

Best Large-Format Resin

Anycubic Mono X

• Price: Check price at Anycubic Official Store here / Available on Amazon here
• Build volume: 192 x 120 x 245 mm

The Mono X is a big upgrade on Anycubic’s lower priced LCD printers. This home 3D printer can print intricate tabletop or D&D models in fantastic detail, and is one of the best 3D printers for miniatures. It prints at a very respectable 60mm/h.

The 4K screen makes for incredibly precise layers for the price, and in fact you’ll barely be able to see any visible layer lines if you use more accurate print settings. Additionally, the upgraded double linear Z-axis improves stability, further improving performance.

The 3.5” touchscreen makes it easy to operated, and the Mono X works over via WiFi or USB/SD. Overall, it’s one of the best 3D printers for resin molds and models under $1,000, and a great 3D printer for resin.

Elegoo Saturn S – Best Large Resin 3D Printer

• Price: Check latest price at Elegoo here / Amazon here
• Build Volume: 196 x 122 x 210 mm
• Bed Leveling: Manual
• LCD: 9.1-inch 4K HD Monochrome
• XY Resolution: 48 microns
• Filament Compatibility: Resin
• Connectivity: USB

The Elegoo Saturn S is a new-look upgrade on the standard Saturn, bring it in line with larger resin competitors like the Anycubic Mono X series.

Compared to the standard Saturn, build volume jumps from 192 x 120 x 200 mm to 196 x 122 x 210 mm. 

This is a slight increase, but these numbers position the Saturn S as one of the larger format printers priced under $500 – ideal for printing batches of your favorite high-detail figurines.

Elsewhere, the Saturn S 4K screen refines the XY resolution to 48 microns, offering a slight jump in fine detail over the Saturn’s 50 microns. You could spend a further $200 on the Photon Mono X 6K to drop to 34 microns. Still, the differences at this scale are virtually indistinguishable to anyone but the most discerning makers.

When compared with the Anycubic Mono X (not the 6K version), they have similar 4K screens and resolutions, with the Saturn S having a 4mm larger X-axis, and the Mono X with a 35mm larger Z-height. So if you want to print taller models, go with the Mono X.

They’re of similar speeds, and have similar connectivity via USB – so it’s mostly down to what you plan to print: do you want to print wider, or taller? For wider, go with the Saturn S, for taller, the Mono X. And for a 6K screen, go for a Mono X 6K.

Best Large-Format FDM

Ender 5 Plus – Best Large-Format 3D Printer Under $1,000

• Price: Check price at Creality Official here / Amazon here
• Build Volume: 350 x 350 x 400 mm
• Bed Leveling: Yes, BLTouch auto-bed leveling probe
• Build Platform: Glass heated bed
• Filament Compatibility: PLA, ABS, TPU, Composite-Filled
• Connectivity: SD Card, Browser Interface

The real highlight of the Ender 5 Plus is the 350 x 350 x 400 mm build volume – far above the average found on sub-$1000 printers. It’s one of the best large 3D printers for the price.

So much real estate opens the door for far more ambitious hobbyist prints – cosplay items and accessories, batch printing smaller parts, large vases or household pieces, and any other projects that benefit from the extra space.

As the most premium of the entry-level Ender line-up, it also throws in a few quality-of-life improvements, notably BLTouch-powered automatic bed leveling, which blazes through normally fiddly calibration. It also features a quality removable tempered glass plate, filament runout sensor, and a sharp 4.3″ touchscreen.

Beyond these, the Ender 5 Plus is a functional printer much like the Ender 3, with few extra bells and whistles. A possible downside for some but a genuine benefit for others as the Ender 5 Plus offers a solid foundation ripe for upgrades and tinkering.

All-metal extruder, direct drive system, enclosure, mainboard, all-metal hot end, and countless 3D printed upgrades are all possible add-ons to transform a solid printer into an exceptional one capable of handling all manner of exotic and abrasive filaments.

Some mods are more daunting than others, but the Ender 5 Plus popularity means there’s an in-depth guide, tutorial, and video available for every upgrade to walk you through every step, courtesy of an engaged and active community.

Best FDM 3D Printer For $1000

Prusa i3 MK3S+

• Price: $749 as a kit — Available on the Prusa store here / $999 fully assembled — Available on the Prusa store here
• Build volume: 250 x 210 x 200 mm

Literally the gold standard of desktop FDM kits, Josef Prusa has sold over 100,000 of his 3D printers over the years. Known as the premier 3D printer to emerge from the RepRap movement, the Prusa i3 MK3S+ is packed with features that make it a great 3D printer for both makers as well as businesses.

The MK3S+, released at the tail end of 2020, features a number of small yet beneficial improvements over the MK3S. The new SuperPINDA probe allows for fully-automatic mesh bed leveling, with other improvements including easier to mount bearings on the Y-axis that provide better support.

You get there bed surface options for spring steel sheets – smooth, textured or satin – covering various different material printing and making finished prints easier to remove than ever. The Prusa can print almost anything, with an extruder temperature up to 300°C possible — so even filaments like Polycarbonate are no issue.

If you want to print multi-color parts, you can upgrade your Prusa i3 MK3S+ with Prusa’s multi-material upgrade 2.0 kit, allowing you to print five colors or materials simultaneously, for $300. Moreover, the high-quality Bondtech gears and E3D nozzle within their custom-designed extruder make for great quality prints as well as top workhorse-like reliability. It’s also a fast 3D printer, able to travel and print up to 200mm/s.

• You can purchase the Multi Material Upgrade Kit here.

You can buy your own Prusa 3D printer online for $999 for a ready-made printer, or save a couple of hundred dollars and assemble it yourself. Overall, it’s one of the top 3D printers for $1,000, and one of the best 3D printer kits around.

Best Dual Extruders Under $1000

Sovol SV04: Best Low-cost IDEX 3D Printer

• Price: $539 — Available at Sovol store here
• Build volume: 300 x 300 x 400 mm

If you want the best dual extruder 3D printer, and don’t want to pay more than a thousand bucks, then there’s only two games in town: the Sovol SV04 and the Flashforge Creator Pro 2.

The main difference is the Sovol SV04’s much larger build volume: it’s the same as the Creality CR-10, at 300 x 300 x 400 mm. This lets you print large objects with multi-colors, or even two fairly large models at the time using the IDEX dual extrusion features.

We tested the Sovol SV04 for a few days while reviewing it, and managed to print some really cool multi-colored 3D prints like the frog and cube shown below.

We also printed some great plant pots for some flowers and a cactus using the Copy Mode feature, with each extruder printing a plant pot simultaneously for double the productivity. 

To be short: if you want a dual extruder 3D printer with a large build volume that works well, go for the Sovol SV04. The IDEX is a really handy addition (the Sovol SV02 isn’t IDEX) for quickly making multiple parts.

But, if you don’t mind having the smaller build volume, and instead prefer the enclosed build chamber to better print materials like ABS and Nylon, then go for the Flashforge Creator Pro 2.

Flashforge Creator Pro 2

• Price: Check price at Flashforge Official store here / Available on Amazon here
• Build volume: 200 x 145 x 150 mm

The Flashforge Creator Pro 2 is one of the best desktop 3D printers on the market for dual extrusion. This makes the Flashforge Creator Pro ideal for low-cost multi-material or color printing.

The Creator Pro 2’s main upgrade on the original Creator Pro is it now features an IDEX 3D printer system, meaning that the two extruders can move independently on the Y-axis rather than being locked together.

This opens up possibilities for both duplication 3D printing (printing two identical parts at the same time), and mirror modes (printing mirrored parts like two opposing shoe soles), greatly improving efficiency. This comes at the cost of some X-axis size, down to 200mm.

The Creator Pro 2 is an accurate 3D printer, with a minimum layer height of 0.05mm. Its closest alternative is the Sovol SV04, a similar-priced IDEX printer, but whereas the Sovol has a larger build volume, the Creator Pro has a sturdily built enclosure for better heat control.

Overall, it’s another terrific 3D printer, and a safe and reliable printer for the price.

Best 3-in-1 3D Printer, CNC and Laser

Snapmaker 2.0 AT (A250T and A350T): Best 3-in-1 3D Printer

• Price: $1,199 to $1,799 — Best price on Snapmaker Store here / Also Available on Amazon here
• Build volumes: up to 320 x 350 x 330 mm

Snapmaker manufacture the best 3-in-1 3D printers, and you can easily switch the extruder module out and switch in the CNC carver, or the laser engraver module in just a few minutes and get working.

The 3D printer module stands on its own as high-quality – we were surprised by just how reliable, accurate, and effective it was when we tested it. It doesn’t feel like you lose anything on the 3D printing side when you add on the other options. The metal structure and linear rails are sturdy, retaining precision even on the largest A350T we tested.

You can 3D print all major hobbyist filaments like PLA, flexible filaments like TPU, and ABS. The smartphone-shaped touchscreen makes it really easy to operate, and the WiFi connectivity saves you hassle from constantly plugging in SD cards or USBs.

You get a range of premium features — auto-leveling, filament run-out detection, dynamic print speeds via the intelligent software –generally making your 3D printing experience more pleasant and productive.

By default you get the weaker 1600mW cutting module which we still managed to laser engrave with nicely, as well as cutting through thin and soft wood (though it takes a lot longer than specialized lasers).

However, you can purchase the 10W high power laser for an extra $399, which can engrave anodized aluminum (check out our wolf engraving below), and comfortably cut through acrylic and wood – we cut out an entire rhino puzzle from black acrylic in under 15 minutes.

You can carve soft and hard woods, as well as carbon fiber sheets and acrylics. We also used the 4-axis CNC module to carve chess pieces from epoxy blocks, and the bit can comfortably carve most woods and similar materials.

We cut chess pieces using the v-bit carver, and the 4-axis rotary module add-on (this costs an extra few hundred bucks though) which lets you carve into cylindrical blocks like a lathe to create detailed characters. Snapmaker Luban software handles the four axes well, and it’s a very well-designed software and slicer generally (vs buggier 3D software like Revopoint’s RevoScan).

If you want to engrave contrasting images, you can use the laser engraver. It can engrave on woods, as well as leather, fabrics and acrylic. We engraved a few cylinder-shaped blocks to test the 4-axis engraving module, as well as using the laser cutter to cut through a thin piece of wood to make this gift box.

We recommend also purchasing the enclosure to improve your printing experience and keeping you safer — and you may want to also pick up some extras for CNC. Their wide range of extras and goodies are on their site, which you can visit here.

If you’re considering the newest A250T or A350T vs the standard Snapmaker 2.0, the newer version is upgraded for a faster and quieter 3D printing experience generally, with a newly designed 3D printing module as well as more intelligent fan speed adjustments and a more powerful power module. There’s even rumors of a dual extruder module coming soon.

You can see more Snapmaker models in our article comparing Snapmaker 2.0, Snapmaker J1, and Snapmaker Artisan.

Best Professional Resin Printers

Prusa SL1S Speed

• Price: $1,999 — Available on Prusa Store here
• Build volume: 127 x 80 x 150 mm

The SL1S Speed is an upgrade on the original SL1, featuring 25% larger build volume, even more improvements to part quality, and more speed than ever.

One of the fastest resin printers around, the SL1S Speed cures layers in 1.4 seconds, and can fill the entire 150mm-high build chamber in just 3 hours. The high-resolution mono 5.96-inch LCD panel accurately cures layers of resin with the UV LED array, with even very small parts retaining their quality and intricacy.

Another major benefit is Prusa’s commitment to open source — with the SL1S being one of the only open source SLA 3D printers. It’s compatible with third-party resins, though Prusa also sell their own high-quality materials. And being a Prusa 3D printer, naturally it’s reliable and durable. 

We recommend you also pick up Prusa’s wash and cure machine for post-processing your resin models. It washes, dries and cures your prints after the printing process, and costs an additional $599.

Formlabs Form 3

• Price: $3,499 — Available on Dynamism Store here
• Build volume: 145 x 145 x 185 mm

Retailing at $3,499, Formlabs’ Form 3 has become the resin 3D printer. It’s popular in both the dental and 3D printed jewelry markets due to its tremendous accuracy and for being significantly faster than traditional methods.

The upgraded Form 3 has a number of improvements on the Form 2, including new LFS technologies and what Formlabs call a new Light Processing Unit which improves the surface finish of prints.

• The Formlabs 3B can also be purchased here / The Formlabs 3L can also be purchased here

The build volume hasn’t drastically increased in the newer Form 3 (just 10mm taller Z axis), but it now boasts incredible 25 micron accuracy. You can buy Formlabs resins, or there are a number of third-party resins compatible with the Form 3 which we’ve linked below.

• For Formlabs official resin: you can buy 1 liter here
• For third-party resins (may result in loss of quality of print): 1 liter here for significantly cheaper, or 500ml here

Best Professional FDM Printers

Ultimaker S3

• Price: $4,080 — Available on Dynamism Store here / Available on Matterhackers here
• Build volume: 230 x 190 x 200 mm

Dutch manufacturer Ultimaker have released some of the best 3D printers of the last few years. With a dual extruder and accuracy up to 20 microns, the Ultimaker S3 is a great 3D printer for rapid prototyping, and is used by small businesses, designers, and makers worldwide.

In addition, the Ultimaker S3 has a very decent 230 x 190 x 200 mm build volume, and includes a built-in camera for remotely monitoring your prints. You can connect to the printer via WiFi, USB or Ethernet very simply. Moreover, the Ultimaker S3 has an auto-leveling system for prints to make sure printing goes smoothly.

If you’re looking for the best 3D printer in terms of accuracy, ease of use, and equipment, and don’t mind spending upwards of $4,000, the Ultimaker S3 is the printer for you.

Ultimaker S5

• Price: $5,995 — Available on Dynamism Store here / Available on Matterhackers here
• Build volume: 330 x 240 x 300 mm

Compared with the excellent S3, the S5 is more expensive, moving away from the desktop 3D printer price range, but features a number of improvements and new features designed to make the Ultimaker S5 a more viable manufacturing method for prototypes and small batch production.

Featuring a larger 330 x 240 x 300 mm maximum build size, this is certainly an advantage over the Ultimaker 3. This makes it a better 3D printer for larger prototypes, shown as the Ultimaker S5 has already been used in companies such as Volkswagen. Ultimaker have earned a tremendous reputation over the years for creating great machines, and we feel the S5 is no different.

Buyer’s Guide – Things to Consider When Buying a 3D Printer

Which type of 3D printer do you want? And which materials do you want to print?

Different technologies do different things. For accurate minis for D&D, go for a resin 3D printer (MSLA / LCD) – they can print with much finer resolutions and smoother surface areas. But for a simpler setup and generally more relaxed experience (no curing, no chemicals) with stronger prints, go for an FDM printer. 

Within this, you need to decide which material – filament or resin – best suits your needs. 

For many PLA filament works just fine as it doesn’t really warp, doesn’t require a heated bed or enclosure (but is still good if you have the choice), comes in a wide variety of colors and blends (even conductive, or glow in the dark!), and it’s cheap.

ABS is tougher despite being just as cheap, and still comes in a wide range of colors – but it can warp and crack if not printed under the right conditions, and requires a heated bed and chamber. Some consider PETG to be a happy medium: it’s great for adhesion and super tough – but its stickiness makes it difficult to print overhangs and supports.

For resins, you don’t have the same range of options as you would with FDM, in materials or colors. There are a few color options, but most use standard resins – though companies like Formlabs have developed dental, jewelry casting, tough ABS-like resins, and a few other types.

What size models do you want to print?

Don’t waste your money on an enormous 3D printer if you just want to print miniatures, but also don’t skimp on a smaller machine if you want to print huge cosplay swords.

Think about what you want to print right now – and what you might want to print in the future. With good 3D printers starting in the $300 price range, it can be an expensive decision to get wrong. Also consider the size of your workspace – 3D printers are deceptively big and you need to make sure it’ll fit.

Also, resin 3D printers typically have smaller build volumes than FDM printers, so if size matters, go FDM.

What do you want to 3D print generally?

Beyond size, think about exactly what you want to 3D print for your projects. If you’re not as fussed about perfect quality, go for a printer with high top speeds (delta 3D printers are generally better for this) – especially if you’re printing cubes and similar shapes that don’t have details. 

But, if you want high-resolution, pick printers that can handle lower layer heights and take smaller nozzle sizes – or resin printers with the most precise XY resolutions. 

For high-temperature filaments, either get an enclosed 3D printer like the Creator Pro 2, or buy an enclosure for your printer – Creality sell their own enclosures, and there are popular DIY projects for the Prusa and other best-selling printers.

If you want to print PC, Nylon, carbon-fiber mixes, and other abrasive blends, you’ll need a printer with a hot end that can handle these temperatures – either go for a Prusa or higher-spec printer, or buy a hot end upgrade kit.

And if you want to print flexible filaments like TPU, opt for a 3D printer that’s either a direct drive 3D printer, or has a direct drive kit like the Ender 3 range – though while you can use a Bowden extruder, it requires a lot more oversight to prevent issues coming up.

Do you want an easy 3D printing experience?

While you shouldn’t be discouraged if you’re a beginner, we recommend you pick 3D printers with features such as auto-leveling, WiFi connectivity, filament run-out sensors and print resume functions, and easy-to-use software and touchscreens to save you hassle if you’re newer or less technical.

Self-leveling is a nice extra that saves you manually re-leveling the printer every few prints, and should guarantee you crisp prints rather than janky blemish-full messes.

WiFi connectivity saves you from taking SD cards back and forth from your laptop to your 3D printer for every print, and is generally a nice addition to have that boosts print productivity.

Filament run-out sensors and print resume features (in case of a power cut or similar) are fairly ubiquitous now – even most entry-level 3D printers have them. But they can be a lifesaver, especially if you lose power during the latter stages of a 24-hour or longer print of a large prototype or cosplay costume piece.

For easy-to-use software, Cura should have you covered for the slicer, but some 3D printers have more intuitive interfaces than others. Most now have touchscreens (though turnable knobs on printers like the Enders and Prusas are fine), and we particularly liked the Snapmaker’s easy-to-use touchscreen interface and design. 

Go for a trusted brand and model if buying on the cheap side

There are hordes of low-cost 3D printers in the $160-$300 range. Most aren’t that reliable, and we recommend sticking with FDM kits like the Ender 3 range, Anycubic entry-level printers, and Elegoo or Anycubic resin printers for lower price printers that actually work well.

The last thing you want to do is get burned and left with an expensive brick. Opt for a highly-reputed printer with large communities and active forums, in case you run into trouble – we recommend these here.

Do you want to print in multiple colors?

For fully multi-colored prints – as in, colored by the pixel (or voxel in 3D) – you’re going to struggle. XYZ made a full-color 3D printer a few years back but the colors looked washed out and it cost $3,500. 

But you can get multi-color prints from a few other ways. You can pick a dual extruder 3D printer and print with two colors, or use a filament splicer like a Palette to print with up to four different colors simultaneously.

Color options for resin LCD or MSLA printers are very limited, unfortunately. To get multi-color resin prints, you mostly need to rely on post-processing.

FAQs

If you enjoyed this article, you may also enjoy:

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• Our ranking of the best FDM 3D printers
• Our ranking of the best resin 3D printers
• 3D printer deals

While the Kobra certainly leads the charge, Anycubic’s back catalog holds a wealth of fantastic low-cost machines that are well worth a gander if you’re in the market for a new FDM printer. If anything, the fact they aren’t the fresh-faced debutantes they once were means you can snap one up at a bargain price.

Among them, we have the litter of Mega printers – the Anycubic Mega S, Mega SE, Mega Pro, and Mega X – and the large-format Anycubic Chiron. With only a handful of letters and a nod to Greek mythology to distinguish them, we’ve pieced together a comparison guide to help you find the best printer suited to you.

We have been lucky to test Anycubic’s more recent 3D printer releases, including the Anycubic Kobra and Vyper, but in this article, we’ll compare Anycubic’s older releases.

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Anycubic Mega S

• Price: Check latest price at Anycubic here / Amazon here
• Printing technology: FDM 
• Build volume: 210 x 210 x 205 mm 
• Filament compatibility: PLA, ABS, PETG, TPU
• Layer height: 100-400 microns
• Max nozzle temp: 275° C
• Max bed temp: 100°C
• Connectivity: USB, Micro SD Card

Building on the success of the original Mega, the Anycubic Mega S welcomes first-time makers with open arms, and not just because of its enticingly affordable price tag.

A chunky, sturdy metal frame gives the Mega S a bit more heft than we typically find on the ultra-budget printers, namely the Ender 3, which helps reduce vibrations and wobble issues as the print head climbs up to the build volume’s upper reaches.

And, with a 210 x 210 x 205 mm build capacity, the Mega S accommodates all those beginner favorites, from small household parts to models of everyone’s favorite pop-cultural icons.

While many low-cost printers list compatibility with flexibles, performance doesn’t always match the marketing. However, the Mega S bucks the trend, handily printing ABS, PLA, PETG, and TPU thanks to an extruder up to the task and good implementation of its Bowden setup.

Regardless of material, there’s a sense the Mega S punches well above its price with impressive print quality with minimal tuning.

Other notable features include one of Anycubic’s Ultrabase build plates, designed for hassle-free first-layer adhesion and easy print removal. A filament run-out sensor, resume power, side-mounted spool holder, and one of the better examples of a touchscreen on a budget printer – responsive controls and good-sized LCD – round off what the Mega S offers.

If you’re looking for a cheap and easy start in 3D printing, the Anycubic Mega S is a perfect package. Easy to assemble and enjoyable to use, it’s a more than viable alternative to the likes of the Ender 3 or Voxelab Aquila. Experienced makers already possessing a printer or two may find the Anycubic Mega S a little too restrictive, especially the build volume.

Anycubic Mega SE

• Price: Check latest price at Anycubic here
• Printing technology: FDM 
• Build volume: 220 x 220 x 250 mm 
• Filament compatibility: PLA, ABS, PETG, TPU
• Layer height: 50-300 microns
• Max nozzle temp: 255° 
• Max bed temp: 100°
• Connectivity: USB, Micro SD Card

With the Mega SE, Anycubic decided to take a different route, swapping out the tried and tested chunky frame design for a more classic, presumably Ender 3-inspired, design. That said, the result is much the same – a sturdy frame and dead simple assembly, albeit with a less striking design.

The redesign allowed Anycubic to increase the build volume to a more generous 210 x 210 x 205 mm, which opens the door to slightly larger prints, a great feature if the Mega S’ capacity is likely to limit your creativity. Fortunately, the excellent Ultrabase build platform returns.

Anycubic also opted to do away with the Mega’s solid, convenient touch screen interface for a dial knob alternative mounted to the side of the printer. While personal preference has a part to play, the old-style display feels like a step backward – most modern printers have done away with those tedious, dual-tone displays.

Where the SE does chart new ground compared to its predecessor is with the inclusion of a double gear extrusion mechanism, bonafide Capricon Bowden tubing, and a faster heating bed.

The Anycubic Mega SE bears some curious design choices for all its affordability. For example, the placement of the spool holder above the gantry; something that makes sense on a direct drive extruder but isn’t optimal for Bowden systems where the filament enters the extruder from the side.

Overall, the Anycubic Mega SE feels like a half-baked attempt to try something new, which is likely why Anycubic has discontinued the printer. The slight build volume increase and a spattering of improvements don’t amount to enough to see us recommend the SE over the Mega S.

Anycubic Mega Pro

• Price: Check latest price at Anycubic here / Amazon here
• Printing technology: FDM 
• Build volume: 210 x 210 x 205 mm 
• Filament compatibility: PLA, ABS, PETG, TPU
• Layer height: 50-300 microns
• Max nozzle temp: 260°C
• Max bed temp: 100°C
• Connectivity: USB, Micro SD Card

The Anycubic Mega Pro tilts towards being far more than a well-priced FDM printer thanks to a clever little twist that makes it stand out not just among its Mega peers but competing machines, too. It’s a 2-in-1 machine with a hot-swappable laser engraving attachment.

This addition could easily be passed off as a gimmick, but, in this case, the engraving head is comparable to what you’d find on similar budget standalone laser engravers. The printer pumps out good quality engravings on got-to woods like basswood, though it’s not quite powerful enough for cutting. You wouldn’t want the laser scarring the build platform, so this is hardly a negative.

If that doesn’t take your fancy, the Anycubic Mega Pro is still a potent printer that channels previous Mega machines. The same blocky frame makes a welcome return after the Mega SE experiment, as does the side-mounted spool holder.

In many ways, it bears all the same features as the Mega S, including build volume, dual gear extruder, and Ultrabase print bed. But, it also throws in a few extra comforts, such as a print pause feature, a smart auxiliary leveling module, a more precise 50-micron minimum layer height, and chunkier leveling knobs for a more complete printing experience.

In action, the Anycubic Mega Pro delivers consistent and impressive print quality for the price. There’s very little it can’t do with some software tuning.

It’s usually priced at $349.00, but given the arrival of newer Anycubic printers, you’ll often find it available for as low as $250. That’s a serious bargain if you were getting the printer alone. Throw in the laser engraving, and it’s frankly a steal. An entry-level engraver typically sets you back at $200 to $300.

Anycubic Mega X

• Price: Check latest price at Anycubic here / Amazon here
• Printing technology: FDM 
• Build volume: 300 x 300  305 mm 
• Filament compatibility: PLA, ABS, PETG, TPU
• Layer height: 50-300 microns
• Max nozzle temp: 250°C
• Max bed temp: 90°C
• Connectivity: USB, Micro SD Card

At the top of the Mega pricing ladder, we have the giant Anycubic Mega X. Anycubic appears to have taken all the best improvements seen in previous models and condensed them into the same, albeit larger, chunky metal frame and sturdy chassis.

The headline is the larger build volume, which stretches to a sizable 300 x 300  305 mm, delivering more capacity versatility than the comparatively dingy Mega S. We’re nearing large-format 3D printer territory, but with a price tag that remains just about affordable, especially as sales shaving the price down to $260 or so are common.

The Ultrabase build plate, dual-gear extruder, and larger leveling knobs make a welcome return, sided by a few Mega X-specific enhancements. There’s a dual screw rod, a more powerful power supply, and a dual-rail design on the Y-axis, all to support the larger build volume, keep unwanted movement and wobble to a minimum, and continue the Mega’s tradition of solid quality prints.

Elsewhere, the Mega X specifications match the Mega S, except for a few tweaks to extruder and bed temperature, a consequence of the larger build volume. Much like the Mega S, it’s easy to set up, and it’s one of the more visually appealing printers on the market today, courtesy of sleek paneling and everything-housed-inside design choice on Anycubic’s part.

The Anycubic Mega X is an affordable alternative to the Mega S for makers who want to tackle those bigger projects.

Anycubic Chiron

• Price: Check latest price at Anycubic here / Amazon here
• Printing technology: FDM 
• Build volume: 400 x 400 x 450 mm 
• Filament compatibility: PLA, ABS, PETG, TPU
• Layer height: 50-300 microns
• Max nozzle temp: 260° 
• Max bed temp: 100°
• Connectivity: USB, Micro SD Card

The Anycubic Chiron’s launch was a messy affair. Bad reviews and delivery of consumer models dripping quality control woes saw Anycubic shelve the printer shortly after that. It returned better than ever and slowly went about ingratiating itself to scorned makers, finally delivering on the promise of rivaling the beastly CR-10.

Now-ironed out Issues aside, the Anycubic Chiron has lots to offer makers looking for a printer to bring their most ambitious projects to life. A hulking 400 x 400 x 450 mm build volume delivers enough capacity to print complete helmets in one piece, cosplay props, busts, tabletop gaming terrain, and decorative figurines up to 45 cm in height.

Elsewhere, the Anycubic Chiron broadly boasts a superb Ultrabase Pro glass build plate with the company’s signature ultra-adhesive microporous coating. The platform is designed to latch onto all supported materials with little fuss when hot but releases them just as easily when cool. It’s a best of both worlds solution that removes the need to wrestle with glue to get a print to stick.

For all its big print merits, the Anycubic Chiron isn’t without its downsides. First and foremost, the touted automatic bed leveling is anything but, instead, a glorified manual bed leveling setup. Though it probes 25 different points on the bed, it fails to incorporate these into the printing process.

Worse, the Chiron can’t print with the probe attached to the printer. In practice, using the probe ends up being more hassle than manually leveling the bed from the get-go, which you’ll have to do with the bed anyway.

The Anycubic Chiron is also starting to show its age, lacking many of the comforts we’ve come to expect from similarly affordable large-format printers in subsequent years, including the excellent Mega X.

Furthermore, though the Anycubic Chiron is capable of good quality prints, it doesn’t make it easy to achieve them. Involved slicer setting experimentation and constant bed tweaks don’t make it as user-friendly as some of Anycubic’s Mega bunch.

Nevertheless, it’s often heavily discounted (as low as $350 at times). If you’re an experienced tinkerer with an appetite for a massive build volume and don’t mind tweaking your way to good quality prints, then the Anycubic Chiron is worth buying. It’s especially appealing if the Mega X’s 300 x 300  305 mm doesn’t quite hit the capacity you need for the largest projects.

Anycubic Mega S vs SE vs Mega Pro vs Mega X vs Chiron – 3D Printers Compared Summary

Although the Anycubic Kobra outclasses the Anycubic Mega S in virtually every way, this compact, well-built printer can still be a potent starter printer. The company regularly drops the price as low as $170, which is excellent value given the print quality and features.

• Mega S: Available here

We suggest avoiding the Mega SE entirely. The pivot to a different frame design abandons one of the Mega lineup’s best features – a sturdy frame and chassis – for a printer that isn’t quite up to par. We recommend sticking with the Mega S for the better design and lower cost.

The same goes for the Anycubic Chiron: the massive build volume doesn’t make up for the aging tech, poor bed leveling, and a tinker-heavy experience. There are plenty of large format printer alternatives out there that have the modern comforts that Chiron doesn’t such as the freshly-launched Anycubic Kobra Plus and Max.

As for the Mega Pro, the question is whether the laser engrave add-on will prove useful. If so, then it’s a solid printer that delivers everything we like about the Mega range and a solid engraving experience alongside.

• Mega Pro: Available here

Last but not least, The Anycubic Mega X should suit beginners looking for a user-friendly, super-sized intro to 3D printers just as well as experienced hobbyists looking to replace a smaller printer with a reliable workhorse without breaking the bank.

• Mega X: Available here

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• Anycubic Photon M3 vs M3 Plus vs M3 Max
• Anycubic Resins Guide
• Anycubic Kobra vs Kobra Plus vs Kobra Max
• Anycubic Kobra Review

The lexicon attached to 3D printing isn’t for the faint of heart. Jargon and acronyms can leave beginners and even those with some 3D printing experience under the belt bewildered.

What do they mean? How do they affect the print process? What about print quality? And, more pressingly, which one is better?

We’ll tackle these questions and more in this direct drive vs. Bowden extruder comparison guide.

Direct Drive and Bowden Extruder System Definitions

When we talk about direct drive and Bowden, we are referring to the extruder system, specifically the mounting location of the extruder and how this affects how it feeds filament into the hot end. They serve the same basic function but come with their own set of benefits and downsides.

What Is a Direct Drive 3D Printer?

In a direct drive system, the extruder is attached to the print head assembly and feeds filament directly into the hot end, hence the name ‘direct’. 

A direct drive system has a much shorter path between the extruder and the hot end, but the print head has to carry around more weight.

Popular direct drive printers: Anycubic Kobra, Prusa i3 MK3S+, Artillery Sidewinder X1

What Is a Bowden Extruder?

In a Bowden extruder setup, the extruder is generally mounted away from the print head, typically on the printer’s frame. 

The extruder feeds filament to the hot end through a lengthy cut of PTFE tubing, known as a Bowden tube, hence the name. Consequently, the path between the extruder and hot end is much longer with a Bowden extruder, but the print head weighs much less.

Popular Bowden printers: Ender 3, Voxelab Aquila, Anycubic i3 Mega S, Prusa MINI+

3D Printer Direct Drive vs Bowden

Now that we have a basic understanding of what sets these two extruder setups apart, we’ll explore their pros and cons:

Speed

With a Bowden setup, the extruder is fixed to the frame, which reduces the weight load on the print head. A lighter print head translates to smoother travel movements. 

With more efficient acceleration/deceleration and less jerk, the printer moves with more precision and is less prone to layer inconsistencies. Cleaner surfaces and less ringing at higher print speeds are also a benefit.

With less weight on the print head, Bowden printers tend to be quieter as the stepper motors don’t have to work as hard during travel movements.

The extruder is attached to the print head assembly on a direct drive setup. The printer has to work harder to deliver travel movements while also contending with more pronounced vibration, overshooting, and wobble, which can affect print quality and accuracy at higher speeds. 

Though present, these issues can largely be sidestepped with correct slicer settings and printer tuning. But, direct drive printers don’t offer the same quality at higher speeds as Bowden extruders.

Extrusion

Due to the location of the extruder on the print head assembly, a direct drive system controls extrusion far better than Bowden systems.

This results in better responsiveness and less force required to push/pull the filament through the hot end. A by-product of this is that a direct drive extruder requires much less extruder stepper motor torque and less aggressive slicer settings to perform well.

On the other hand, a Bowden system offers less precise and responsive extrusion control, and requires more motor torque to move the filament. This is due to the longer filament path and the added resistance, or friction, caused by the filament running through the PTFE tubing.

This results in a lag, or a delay, between extruder actions and movement in the hot end. Common issues are stringing, oozing, and other extrusion-linked problems.

Retraction

Retraction is the name given to the action of the extruder pulling the filament back into the hot end during travel movements. It ensures filament isn’t pushed through the hot end as the print head moves over non-print areas and reduces unsightly oozing and stringing, which can affect the finish and overall quality of prints.

Direct drive systems provide much better and faster retraction performance because the extruder is located closer to the hot end. It doesn’t have to work as hard to retract the filament, resulting in finer retraction control, which reduces stringing.

In many cases, 3D printers with direct drive systems function well with very low retraction settings.

A Bowden extruder has a much harder time delivering accurate retraction. It has to work harder to pull back the filament through the tube, which can also rub against the filament, causing resistance.

Retraction is, therefore, slower, less responsive, and needs more extreme in-slicer tuning to perform well.

Flexible Materials

One of the major benefits of a direct drive extruder is how well suited it is to printing flexibles and abrasive materials, notably TPU. The more precise filament control, better retraction, and much shorter filament path make it so that there’s less potential for things to go wrong, unlike Bowden systems.

Due to the flexible or abrasive properties of the materials, they are particularly prone to jamming and clogging as they wear, bend, and bind. These issues are heightened as the filament passes through the long Bowden tubing, affecting the extruder’s grip and, therefore, its ability to control the flow of filament correctly.

A common manifestation of a Bowden system struggling with materials other than PLA and ABS is excessive oozing and stringing, the latter producing wispy strands of filament on prints, which require substantial post-processing.

Though optimal settings and printer mods can mitigate the problem to a certain extent, there’s no way to avoid the problem entirely with a Bowden extruder. As such, if you’re planning to work primarily with flexibles, you’ll want a direct drive printer.

A well-tuned Bowden 3D printer is more than up to the task of printing PLA and ABS.

Recommended Direct Drive Extruder and Bowden Extruder Upgrade Kits

Direct Drive

E3D Hemera Direct Drive Kit – A complete direct drive upgrade suitable for a broad range of printers, including the ever-popular Ender 3. E3D is one of the most respected manufacturers of hot ends, nozzles, and extruders around, so you’re buying quality. The E3D Titan is worth a look as well.

Micro Swiss Direct Drive Kit – Another excellent direct drive upgrade kit from a big name in the printer part market. It comes with Micro Swiss’ highly-respected all-metal hot end as a bonus and a dual-drive train.

Petsfang – If buying a kit isn’t your cup of tea, there’s no shortage of DIY paths to a direct drive system. Among the best is the highly-respected Petsfang. Much of the project is 3D printed, which should keep costs significantly lower than buying a kit.

Bowden

Capricorn Bowden Tubing – A simple and cost-effective upgrade, buying a Capricorn-branded tube, known for its extra lubrication and the quality of the PTFE, is the easiest way to perk up a flagging Bowden system.

Bondtech BMG Dual Drive Extruder – Stock extruders on low-cost printers can be hit and miss; some even use plastic to cut costs which can affect drip and speed up wear and tear. You can easily upgrade to a more reliable and robust part such as the Bondtech BMG Dual Drive Extruder. It’s lightweight, has an excellent 3:1 gear ratio, and is easy to install.

FAQs

Other related articles:

• The best 3D printer hot ends
• Best direct drive 3D printers
• Best dual extrusion 3D printer reviews
• The best Ender 3 direct drive upgrades
• The complete 3D printer extruder buyer’s guide
• Extruder clicking or slipping: how to fix