Fortunately, it’s also easy to fix when you know the cause of the problem.

Let’s uncover the reasons why resin prints stick to the FEP film, and how you can quickly put this problem behind you.

Why Do Resin Prints Stick to The FEP Film Instead of the Build Plate?

Uneven or Unleveled Build Plate

A 3D printer’s build plate needs to be even and leveled at all times. When it’s even, it’s uniformly flat, and when it’s leveled it’s completely parallel to the FEP film (and it should also be free from resin residue, dents, and scratches).

Anything short of that can create printing problems, including first-layer adhesion. 

If parts of your first layer do not stick properly to the build plate, they’ll get left behind on the FEP film as the plate rises.

Low Bottom Layer Exposure Time

Exposure time is the amount of time the UV light hits the resin to turn it into a solid. The bottom layers of a print require more exposure time because they need to form a solid foundation to hold the entire print’s weight. 

If the bottom layer exposure time is not enough, these layers won’t cure and stick firmly to the build plate. Eventually, the print will fall off and the build plate will repeatedly press it into your FEP sheet as printing continues.

Low Lifting Distance

Once a layer has cured, the build plate rises away from the FEP film by one layer height. This movement also allows new resin to flow into the gap where the last layer was printed, to prepare for the curing of a new layer.

The distance the build plate rises is the lifting distance. When this distance is low, the print will not detach from the FEP sheet. It also means that there won’t be room for the new resin to flow into what would be the new gap. 

As the printing continues, the gap where resin is supposed to flow hardens and remains on the FEP sheet.

Fast Lifting Speed

Lifting speed is how fast the build plate pulls away a finished layer from the FEP sheet.

The faster the lifting speed, the greater the pulling force on a freshly cured layer, and the easier it is for this layer to peel away from the FEP film. 

When the lifting speed is too fast, and the plate adhesion is not strong enough, the print can detach from the plate and remain on the FEP film during lifting. 

Insufficient Contact With Build Plate

There are times when the contact between the print and the build plate is not enough. This can originate from slicing a model where some parts are thin and have narrow contact with the build plate. In such cases, the object will not stick to the build plate properly at these points. 

Insufficient contact makes it easy for the print to yank away from the plate and remain on the surface of the FEP sheet as the plate rises.

Loose FEP Sheet 

Sometimes, a print sticks to the FEP because the sheet is too loose. The FEP sheet stretches a little when pulled. If it is very loose, it will merely stretch along with the new layer still attached to it during the entire lifting distance.

The sheet, therefore, needs to be tight enough to resist the pulling force of the rising plate and allow a finished layer to go with the rest of the print. 

How To Stop Resin Prints Sticking To The FEP

To prevent a resin print from sticking to the FEP film, use rafts and always print on an even and level bed. You should also have enough bottom exposure time, a tight FEP sheet, and the right lifting speed and lifting distance.

Let’s see how you can do this in detail.

Even Out the Build Plate

The first step to getting an even build plate is removing any leftover resin residue from previous projects. To do this:

1. Unmount the build plate from the Z-arm of your printer.
2. Using a metal scraper, gently scrape off any visible residue.
3. To get a clean finish, pour some isopropyl alcohol on a clean, lint-free cloth and wipe the plate.

Minor scratches on the build plate are normal, especially because most of us scrape off our prints with sharp objects. But if the plate has deep scratches, dents, or grooves on it, these will require your attention. 

A good way to eliminate them is using sandpaper to smoothen the plate.

Level the Build Plate

3D prints stick much better to a build plate that is leveled. To level a build plate on a resin 3D printer:

1. Unmount the plate and ensure that it is clean.
2. Place the plate back onto the printer, but keep its screws loose.
3. If you have any resin in the resin tray, pour it back into the resin bottle using a funnel and filter paper.
4. Clean out the resin tray by dabbing it with paper towels and rinsing it with isopropyl alcohol. Avoid pouring liquid residue down the drain.
5. Attach the resin tray back to the printer and lower the build plate into the tray until the plate and FEP film makes complete contact.
6. Tighten the build plate to keep it in its new leveled position.

Increase Bottom Exposure Time

If the first layers of your prints are sticking to the FEP film, it could mean that they are not getting enough UV exposure time. Increase your bottom exposure time to make sure the resin in your first layers cures fully and sticks to the build plate.

Bottom exposure time is not set in stone. But a good range should be 8-12 times the normal exposure time for the print.

You don’t want to go overboard with this setting because too much of it can make it hard to remove the print, especially if you’re using strong 3D printer resin. Even worse, a bottom layer exposure time beyond 30 seconds can cause the printer to overheat.

Lower Lifting Speed

With lifting speed, you want to get a rate that allows newly cured layers to peel off the film while allowing the rest of the print to remain on the build plate. Keep in mind that as lifting speed lowers, printing time increases. 

You can experiment with lifting speed until you find a sweet spot, but I find that 1-3 mm/s usually causes no problems.

Increase Lifting Distance

The lifting distance should allow the build plate to rise high enough to completely peel off a printed layer from the FEP film. You don’t want it to be too high because those extra millimeters will only take up more printing time.

6 mm is a common default lifting distance, but you can increase it up to about 8 mm if you’re dealing with large prints.

Use Rafts

A raft is a thin mesh of throwaway material on which your print sits. Before the printer prints a model, it can create a raft that sticks firmly to the build plate. This way, even if your model has thin contact point areas, they will attach to the raft that is sticking nicely and firmly onto the plate.

Some people feel that a raft is a waste of resin. However, if you’re constantly having blobs of resin stuck onto your FEP film, the benefits of a raft certainly outweigh the cons. 

Most slicers have a raft feature that you can enable. You can also fine-tune what the raft will look like by tweaking these settings:

• Raft Margin: how far the raft extends around the model. Your raft should essentially be slightly bigger than your model.
• Raft Air Gap: the distance between the top layer of the raft and the bottom layer of the model. The greater the raft air gap, the less bonding you’ll have between your model and raft. Increasing this gap will make it easier to peel off the model from the raft, but keep in mind that the model still needs to stick sufficiently onto the raft. 

Because you’re adding an extra part at the bottom, make sure that the Bottom Layers value includes the total number of layers in the raft plus a few extra layers for the bottom of the actual print. This will ensure that both the raft and the first layers of the print cure solidly. 

If you are printing at a 0.05 mm layer height, try a raft layer height of 0.15 mm with 5 bottom layers. If you are printing at a 0.02 mm layer height, use a raft layer height of 0.08 mm with 6 bottom layers 

Adjust FEP Sheet Tension

You need your FEP sheet to be taut enough and not overstretch as the build plate lifts off a printed layer. To adjust the FEP sheet tension:

1. Take out the resin vat and turn it upside down.
2. Using an Allen wrench, tighten the screws on the back of the FEP frame one by one.
3. To check how tight the sheet is, lightly tap it with a finger or something soft. Avoid using any sharp or rough objects because these can put a dent in the film. As you tap on the film, it should sound similar to a snare drum.
4. An indirect measure of tightness is the frequency of the sound the film makes as you tap on it. This frequency is measured in Hertz (Hz), and the higher the frequency, the tighter the tension in the sheet.
5. A good spot is 325 Hz, which you measure using a frequency spectrum phone app such as Spectroid. This step will require alternation between tapping on the film, seeing the frequency it makes on the app, and loosening or tightening the screws until you get the required frequency.

How To Remove Stuck Resin From FEP & Dispose Of It

If you’ve successfully found a solution to the stuck resin, the next thing you want to do is remove and discard it safely. Because FEP sheets are prone to mechanical damage, it’s vital that you do this carefully.

How To Remove Stuck Resin From FEP Sheet

1. Wear safety gloves and remove the resin tray from the printer.
2. Pour any leftover resin back into the resin bottle to avoid wasting it. A funnel and thin paper filter will prevent any solid residues from getting into the bottle.
3. Place the resin tray on top of a soft cloth and hold it in your hand.
4. Use paper towels and gently dab any resin left in the tray.
5. Once all the resin is out, locate a spot on the FEP sheet that has stuck resin. Apply some upward pressure using a finger directly under that spot.
6. Scoop out the residue using a silicone spatula. Avoid using hard materials as you’re handing the FEP film. Repeat this for all the spots that have stuck resin.
7. Rinse out the tray using some isopropyl alcohol, let it dry, and place it back into the printer.

If the stuck resin is too small to scoop out, consider using the FEP cleaning/tank cleaning function.

How To Dispose of Resin 

Unlike FDM filaments, liquid resin requires extra care because it can be toxic to both the body and the environment. This also applies to eco-friendly and water-washable resin. 

However, solid resin is not dangerous, so the best way to deal with used resin is first to let it cure. Never flash or pour liquid resin down the drain.

As you clean your tank, remember to put any rinsed-out resin and used paper towels into a separate container. When you’re done cleaning, put this container under direct sunlight to let it turn into a solid. After that, you can dispose of it with normal trash. 

A 3D printer is not hard to use or learn for the most part. The hardest things about 3D printing are learning how to use software to design models of 3D objects from scratch, as well as how each printer setting affects the printing process.

In this article, I’ll talk about why 3D printing can be difficult and how you can simplify it. I’ll also unpack the best ways to learn 3D printing and recommend some of the most user-friendly 3D printers you can buy.

Why is 3D Printing so Hard to Learn?

3D printing is difficult to learn mainly because the 3D modeling stage requires architectural, geometric, and visual art skills. It also takes some time to wrap your head around printer calibration and best practices for specific printing materials. 

Fortunately, there are a few tips and techniques that can make 3D printing fun and easy, even if it’s your first time using a 3D printer. Let’s dive into some of these.

How To Make 3D Printing as Easy as Possible

With the right advice, 3D printing shouldn’t be hard for anyone. Here is how you can make 3D printing incredibly simple.

Buy an easy-to-use 3D printer

Not all 3D printers are the same. Some are created to work on complex projects, making them a nightmare for beginners. They often use 3D printing technologies that require extra caution and practice.

FDM 3D printers are the simplest to use for beginners, though resin printing has become far more accessible over the last few years. FDM printers and their software are ideal, as many of the best settings are automated to save you hours finding the right settings or troubleshooting printing problems. 

Some features to look out for in an easy-to-use 3D printer include:

• Ease of assembly
• Simple 3D printing software
• Automated features such as bed auto-leveling
• Large online community of users

Use simple software

There are two main types of software you’ll be using: 

• 3D modeling software: if you’re designing your own models before printing
• 3D slicer software: for slicing the model so you can 3D print it in layers

3D modeling is the process of using 3D modeling software to create a digital model of the 3D object you want to make. 

When you’ve finished creating the model, you can save it onto a USB stick and plug the stick into a 3D printer (or transmit via WiFi if your printer has it).

There’s a bit of a learning curve with any 3D modeling software. But some software is easier to learn than others. It still doesn’t mean you should settle for software with only basic functions just because it’s easy to use. 

The best 3D modeling software for beginners is Tinkercad. It has a simple user interface that lets you drag and drop multiple basic shapes to create a 3D model, just as you would with Legos. Even kids find it easy to play with, so it’s no surprise that it’s the most common 3D modeling software in schools.

From there, your 3D slicer handles the settings you print with, such as how tall each layer is when you print, how fast you 3D print, and many other settings.

The most user-friendly slicing software is Cura, with built-in settings for most printers so you don’t need to adjust anything if you’re unsure what they do. To learn more, we also have an article on the best slicer settings, as well as a list of the best 3D slicing software.

Download premade models

Mastering 3D modeling puts you miles ahead of most 3D printing enthusiasts, but it requires plenty of time and experimentation. 

Luckily, there’s a cure for this if you just want to get started quickly — downloading premade models that someone has already modeled and uploaded online. Now you can skip through the mental gymnastics of designing your own model from scratch. 

You can find premade models of anything, from action figures to fashion accessories, and common household items. If you’re wondering what you can make with a 3D printer, check out these trusted sites for premade 3D models to get some inspiration. We’ve also written about the 50+ coolest things you can 3D print, with download links for each file.

Use high-quality filaments

Your choice of 3D printing filament can cause either pride or frustration in your 3D print. 

The problem with poor-quality filament is that you can do everything right but still end up with a messy print. But high-quality filament ensures that your printer runs smoothly and your prints come out right. 

By far, the most popular filament for both beginners and professionals is PLA. It’s an affordable, general-purpose filament that’s compatible with many printers and easy to work with. It’s also biodegradable and comes in a wide range of colors.

But being the most used filament on the planet means there are countless PLA brands out there. Our selection of the best PLA filaments will help you cut through the noise and make an excellent choice.

Ensure there is good ventilation

It’s important to put safety first. 3D printers work by melting plastic filament and pushing it through a narrow nozzle to create an object layer by layer. 

This process may release some fumes that can be hazardous, especially if you’re using a filament like ABS.

Good ventilation ensures that you don’t inhale large amounts of these vapors. Before you print, place your 3D printer in an open space that allows enough fresh air in and used air out. If you can, do your printing outdoors.

If ventilation is a serious problem for you, you can switch to an enclosed 3D printer or cover your printer with a DIY 3D printer enclosure. They keep 100% of the fumes trapped away while drastically reducing any noise from the 3D printer.

Get good safety equipment

You can take your safety game to the next level by investing in some safety equipment for your 3D printing sessions. Some items you can add to your safety stack are:

• Nitrile gloves
• Overalls
• Eye protection goggles
• Respirators

What is the Best Way to Learn 3D Printing? 

Knowing your way around a 3D printer is a long-term goal. The most important thing is to enjoy your printing sessions while you get better. Here are a few fun ways to learn 3D printing.

Online tutorials

Online tutorials help you understand basic and complex 3D printing topics from experts around the world. 

They’re available everywhere on the internet. At the click of a button, you’ll find how-to guides, quick-fix tips, and best practices for virtually anything related to 3D printing.

Learning how each of the slicer settings affects your print is one of the best investments of time you can make. We linked to our article on this above, but you can also find hundreds of great YouTube videos explaining them if you prefer video

Attend workshops or classes

Online tutorials are okay, but workshops and classes provide you with real-life 3D printing skills and hidden industry gems. 

Whether you want to learn deeply about 3D printers, monetize your 3D printing hobby, or become an expert at printing certain things, getting a structured 3D printing education is the way to go. 

These 3D printing courses are a great way to get the certification needed to prove your professional expertise in 3D printing circles. 

Join a 3D printing community

As 3D printing grows in popularity, so does its community. Feel free to join the thousands of 3D printing professionals, hobbyists, and newbies on online platforms like Quora, Reddit, and Facebook. 

These communities are usually responsive and supportive when you’re dealing with a printing issue because they’ve probably experienced it too. 

As you browse through other people’s contributions on these sites, you’ll find a ton of useful information that you can sometimes add to your own 3D printing playbook. 

Experiment and practice

The best way to become skilled in 3D printing is to practice, practice, practice. With time, things will come naturally, and you’ll be able to print almost anything on command. 

There’s also a weird level of creativity that comes with experimenting with your 3D printer, so don’t shy away from trying eccentric designs and settings. 

What are the Easiest 3D Printers to Use?

If you’re new to 3D printing, you need to start with a printer that’s simple but effective. A printer that doesn’t fuss about settings and does things automatically. 

These are some of the 3D printers that are naturally easy to use: 

Anycubic Kobra

• Price: Check latest price at Anycubic here / Amazon here

The Anycubic Kobra is one of the most high-performing budget 3D printers you can find. Great print quality, sizeable build volume, affordable price tag, and straightforward to use.

The printer has a 4.3-inch touchscreen with a multi-language user interface. It has other cool features such as automatic bed leveling, and a detachable build plate. It can also print with almost every thermoplastic filament on the market.

On the downside, the Anycubic Kobra gets a little too loud with its fans. 

Anycubic Kobra 3D Printer

Anycubic here

Amazon here

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Voxelab Aquila

• Price: Check latest price at Amazon here

This 3D printer is arguably one of the most affordable entry-level printers ever made. It’s so easy to operate, and still has decent print quality, especially with PLA. 

Although the Voxelab Aquila beats most budget printers in price wars, it strictly uses one 3D slicer, VoxelMaker. Although the software is easy to use and does everything a new user would want, it’s not quite the same as Cura.

Also, the printer can’t withstand very hot temperatures, meaning you can’t work with some types of filaments. But if you’re still learning 3D printing, stick with PLA anyway.

Voxelab Aquila

$179.00

Amazon here

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05/25/2023 06:38 am GMT

Prusa i3 MK3S+

• Price: Check latest price at Prusa here / Amazon here

Prusa has stood the test of time and continues to make cutting-edge 3D printers. A sturdy, reliable printer, the Prusa i3 MK3S+ won’t limit you on which filament to use. 

It has ample build volume, a filament sensor to warn you when you’re running out of filament, and a power loss feature that lets you resume printing in case of a power outage. Prusa also has one of the largest online 3D printing communities, so you’ll have support in case of any problems you encounter with your printer.

But here’s the catch — the Prusa i3 MK3S+ is five times more expensive than the other two printers. 

Original Prusa i3 MK3S+ kit

The best 3D printer kit of all time. If you have $1,000, this is some of the best value you can get.

Prusa here

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FAQs:

3D-printed objects are aquarium-safe if they’re printed with toxic-free filament. The best toxic-free filament to use is pure PETG and food-safe ABS or PLA. But since PLA isn’t waterproof, you need to apply a food-safe epoxy resin or spray-on coolant on a PLA object before putting it in an aquarium.

It can be overwhelming to know which 3D-printed objects can go in your aquarium. I’ll try to clear the air on this topic so you can confidently print aquarium-safe 3D objects. But first, let’s talk about filaments.

What Filaments Are Safe For Aquariums? 

There are different filaments you can use to print aquarium 3D parts, each with its own set of precautions. Let’s find out more.

Is PLA Safe For Aquariums? 

You can use food-safe PLA in your aquarium for years without any problems for your fish. If you’re not sure whether your brand is food-safe, make sure you coat the 3D-printed part with food-safe epoxy resin before using it in the aquarium. 

PLA is a popular, biodegradable thermoplastic derived from natural substances like corn and sugarcane. But because it’s not petroleum-based, PLA is not waterproof. 

It’s biodegradable, but not that biodegradable. When you submerge a PLA-printed part in water, it won’t exactly dissolve, but it will gradually absorb some water and swell up. This will usually happen over a few days or weeks, but it shouldn’t be a problem for an aquarium environment. 

The only real issue is when PLA stays in water for more than a couple of years. This is when it starts to break down a little into the water. 

When this happens, it can introduce dangerous foreign chemicals into your aquarium because some PLA filaments, such as glow-in-the-dark filaments, have toxic additives.

To be on the safe side, use only the best PLA brands you can get your hands on. Specifically, check whether the PLA brand is food-safe. If you want to eliminate any doubts, the best thing to do is waterproof your PLA-printed part with food-safe epoxy resin.

Epoxy resin sticks to most materials to give them a glossy finish. It seals any porous holes in the PLA object to prevent water from reacting with it. 

But tread carefully when choosing epoxy resin because it often contains toxic chemicals that can kill your fish. Go for food-safe brands and make sure you cure the 3D-printed part long enough in the sun before inserting it into the aquarium.

Is ABS Safe For Aquariums?

ABS is safe for aquariums if the filament is FDA-approved. Other filaments will require you to waterproof them with a food-safe epoxy resin or spray-on coolant before using them in an aquarium.

ABS is commonly used for making objects that can withstand chemical attacks and hot temperatures. But you can still use it to print objects for your aquarium because it’s much stronger than PLA.

But keep in mind that ABS is not waterproof and may leach chemicals into the water. So make sure there are no toxic dyes in whatever ABS filament you buy. FDA-approved ABS filaments are the safest option. 

Also, be on the lookout for black or white ABS because it is usually pure, making it good for aquatic life.

Is Nylon Safe For Aquariums? 

Nylon might be tough and durable, but it’s not ideal for aquarium use. Unless it’s coated with an aquarium-safe paint or epoxy resin, nylon absorbs water and swells up, disfiguring your 3D-printed part. 

Nylon is extremely hygroscopic, meaning it absorbs water quickly. When submerged in water, nylon can absorb water up to a tenth of its weight, causing a change in its shape. Again, this isn’t a real issue for an aquarium owner unless your 3D-printed part serves a functional purpose. 

For example, if you print a part to cover a pipe inside the aquarium, that slight expansion can make it loose. 

But if you’re printing a piece of aquarium decor out of nylon, you won’t face any serious challenges because of the swelling. Nonetheless, you can coat your nylon 3D pieces with a food-safe epoxy resin to prevent them from absorbing water.

Is PETG Safe For Aquariums?

PETG is absolutely safe for aquariums. One of PETG’s selling points is its non-toxicity, making it harmless to fish. In addition, PETG is tough, durable, and heat-resistant. 

What makes it the safest option for aquariums is the fact that it’s food-safe. In its pure form, PETG is used to make human food covers and plastic bottles because it contains no toxins that can contaminate food.

Fish can also benefit from these characteristics. PETG is also non-biodegradable so it will not be broken down by bacteria and living organisms in the aquarium. 

Is Resin Safe for Aquariums?

Resin is generally not safe for aquariums. If a resin 3D printed part doesn’t cure thoroughly, it can release toxins that are harmful to the fish.

In its uncured form, 3D printer resin is notoriously toxic to aquatic ecosystems. The compounds in liquid resin can cause adverse health effects and deaths in fish. Resin 3D-printed parts may also contain some uncured micro-particles even after long UV light exposure. 

One study exposed zebrafish embryos to resin 3D-printed parts. They found that most did not hatch, and those that did had severe deformities.

What Are The Best Filaments To Buy For Aquariums? 

Now that we know which filament types are safe for an aquarium, let’s see which brands you can try.

Best PLA filament For Aquariums

Hatchbox PLA 

• Price: Check latest price at Amazon here

Hatchbox PLA is what you get when arguably the most popular filament supplier creates the most popular filament. Hatchbox makes are top-drawer products that you can get without breaking the bank.

The Hatchbox PLA is hands-down the safest PLA filament you can use in your aquarium. It’s plant-based and contains a careful blend of environmentally-friendly polymers.

Hatchbox PLA

$24.99 ($0.71 / Ounce)

Amazon here

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05/25/2023 02:33 am GMT

MatterHackers PRO Series

• Price: Check latest price at MatterHackers here

Matterhackers is another industry-leading filament manufacturer based in California. The MatterHackers PRO Series is one of the most reliable filament lines you’ll find on the market, especially their PLA.

The PLA in this series is made from a patented biopolymer that is very low in toxicity, making it safe for your aquarium’s livestock. While it goes head-to-head with the Hatchbox PLA in terms of aquarium safety, the MatterHackers PRO Series PLA is notoriously prone to stringing.

MatterHackers PRO Series

$50-60

MatterHackers here

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Best ABS filament for Aquariums

Hatchbox ABS

• Price: Check latest price at Amazon here

With Hatchbox’s ABS filaments, you can expect color variety, durability, and high-quality finishes in your 3D prints. As far as its aquarium safety, it’s 100% non-hazardous. Their range of colors will take your creative possibilities to the next level by giving you more options for things to print.

Hatchbox ABS

$23.99 ($0.68 / Ounce)

Amazon here

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05/25/2023 07:48 am GMT

Sunlu ABS

• Price: Check latest price at Amazon here

Sunlu ABS is a cheaper ABS filament alternative that is safe to use in your aquarium. It also comes in several color options and there haven’t been many printing issues reported with it.

Some people have complained about the printed parts being unusually brittle, but that’s generally an ABS thing. In terms of quality, Sunlu is good enough for making aquarium objects.

SUNLU ABS 3D Printer Filament

$49.99

Amazon here

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05/25/2023 07:58 am GMT

Best PETG Filament for Aquariums

MatterHackers build PETG 

• Price: Check price at Matterhackers here

This is the industry gold standard for affordable PETG filaments. Budget-friendly but still durable, the filament usually doesn’t have the regular stringing issues associated with PETG. It’s also water-insoluble and non-toxic, so it’s more than safe for printing aquarium objects.

Overall, this is the go-to filament for 3D printing any sort of object for your aquarium.

Prusament PETG

• Price: Check latest price at Amazon here

Prusament PETG is perfect for aquariums because of its low water absorption and zero toxicity. I also have to mention that it’s manufactured by Prussa, a reputable name in the 3D printing community. Like other PETG brands, it comes in a ton of colors with different shade varieties in each color.

Prusament Jet Black, PETG Filament 1.75mm 1kg Spool

$79.99 ($2.27 / Ounce)

Amazon here

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05/25/2023 08:13 am GMT

What Can I Use My 3D Printer For In An Aquarium?

You can 3D print items to serve a functional or decorative purpose in your aquarium. 

Functional items are those tools, parts, and covers that help in the maintenance of the aquarium setup. 

Here are some functional parts that a 3D printer can create for an aquarium: 

• Feeding funnels
• Hose clamp
• Bubble maker
• Airline holder
• Sand flattener
• Water test kit rack

Decorative items mainly improve your aquarium aesthetics, although they also give fish a place to reproduce. With decorations, the ideas are infinite. You can create famous monuments or an entire theme park for your fish to live in.

Here are some decorative ideas you can 3D print for an aquarium:

• Faux rocks
• Castles
• Guard towers
• Caves
• Branches and sticks
• Stone Walls
• “No Fishing” sign

In some cases, 3D printing an object is much cheaper than buying it, especially the smaller ones. And there are situations where it’s nearly impossible to find the exact decor you want in a pet shop, let alone one that is aquarium-safe.

What Are The Best 3D Printers For Aquarium Decorations?

As we’ve seen, filaments play a huge role in determining what is safe for your aquarium. But having the right printer puts a cherry on top of your overall 3D printing experience. 

Here are the best 3D printers you can use for your aquariums:

Creality Ender 3 V2 

• Price: Check latest price at Creality here / Amazon here

The Creality Ender 3 V2 is designed to give the best value for money in an entry-level 3D printer. Sophisticated enough to handle complex models but simple enough for a first-timer to use, this 3D printer is an excellent budget pick for most people.

When it comes to everyday 3D printing, Ender 3s are known to bring a lot to the table, including a large build volume of 220 x 220 x 25 0mm for you to print large prints in one go.

Its resume printing function allows you to jump right back into your printing session even after a power interruption or outage. This is something you don’t get on cheaper printers.

Creality Ender 3 V2 3D Printer

$279.99

Upgraded version of the original Ender 3 with a number of key quality-of-life improvements.

Creality Store here

Amazon here

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Prusa i3 MK3S+

• Price: Check latest price at Prusa here / Amazon here

The Prusa i3 MK3S+ comes at a more hefty price tag but for a good reason. 

Overall, the machine is built with superior components that push the envelope of quality for printers in its price range. The Prusa i3 MK3S+ is a high performer capable of printing for long hours without degrading quality. 

It might have a slightly smaller build volume of 210 x 210 x 250 mm, but it makes up for it by printing at record-breaking speeds. If you’re willing to spend some extra cash, the Prusa i3 MK3S+ will give you a more premium experience than the Ender 3 V2.

Original Prusa i3 MK3S+ kit

The best 3D printer kit of all time. If you have $1,000, this is some of the best value you can get.

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FAQ:

Printing overnight is not safe, and virtually all manufacturers advise against it. It involves the risk of fire and electrical hazards, fume intoxication, and failed prints from mechanical failure and filament running out. It’s also very noisy.

3D printing is fun, but let’s face it – nobody likes to wait around. Typical 3D prints take a few hours, with some going over the 10-hour mark. It can be tempting to leave a printer running overnight so you can wake up to a beautiful, finished print. But here is the truth.

I’ve personally thought about doing an overnight print, but the risks were just not worth it. In this article, I’ll share my objective view on why it can be tempting to leave your 3D printer running overnight, but why you probably shouldn’t do it.

Leaving 3D Printer On Overnight: Pros and Cons

Risks of 3D Printing Overnight

A lot of people have normalized sleeping through an overnight printing session, but it’s not the safest thing to do. Hear me out.

In most 3D printer user manuals, you’ll see a warning against leaving your 3D printer unattended. This is because 3D printing requires regular monitoring, not just for your own safety, but for the success of your prints. 

It’s common to see a print start well, only to come back to a messy affair on your build plate. But printing fails should be the least of your worries if you decide to print overnight. 

Fire Hazard

A 3D printing fire hazard is rare, but it can still happen. There have been a few reported cases of 3D printers causing devastating fires, and most of the causes are similar.

Extruders are a common culprit in 3D printing fire hazards because of how hot they get. The hot end temperature can be anywhere from 100-300°C, depending on your filament and printer. 

Although extruders are designed not to catch fire, an abnormal situation can happen, causing the component to overheat beyond what it can handle. 

Back-to-back long printing sessions that don’t allow the hot end to cool can cause overheating. There have also been cases when an extruder gets stuck in one place during printing, causing the motors to jam and overheat. 

An overheating extruder can create a fire hazard if it comes into contact with a flammable material in its vicinity, such as a curtain or paper towel. Some filaments like ABS are also flammable and can create a fire hazard when they heat up uncontrollably. Always keep your 3D printer away from flammable objects. 

You may also place a flame-proof box over your printer to prevent a fire from spreading in case it starts. Another effective measure against fire hazards is a smoke detector. Install one over the 3D printer, and make sure it’s turned on while printing. 

Even with all these defenses in place, the best way to protect yourself is to actually avoid printing through your night’s sleep.

Electrical Hazard

Electrical hazards are a possible risk during overnight printing because you won’t be able to keep an eye on the state of your printer. 

They happen as a result of poor electrical wiring, installation, or old wires where you’re printing. In addition, overheating can cause the wires inside your printer to get so hot that they melt the insulation around them.

All those factors are a recipe for a short circuit, which can destroy your printer or put you at risk of electric shocks and burns.

Toxic Fumes

3D printing should always happen in a well-ventilated room. During printing, filaments melt and release harmful fumes that you may sometimes not even notice. 

If your printer is running overnight and you’re sleeping in the same room, you increase your exposure to these toxic fumes.

Some filaments like PLA have vapors that are safe to inhale, but it’s something you’re advised not to do in the long term. Others are not that safe because they give off dangerous volatile organic compounds that can have grave consequences on your respiratory health, including cancer.

For example, ABS releases Styrene, a noxious compound known to be carcinogenic. Nylon fumes are also highly toxic, causing headaches, eye irritation, and breathing problems in some individuals.

The best way around this is to make sure that your room is properly ventilated to allow fresh air in and the filament fumes out. You can also buy a 3D printer enclosure to make sure you’re completely safe from the noxious fumes, or just buy an enclosed 3D printer. 

While manufactured 3D printer enclosures are highly effective, they can be pricey. If you’re not willing to spend on one, you can always make a DIY 3D printer enclosure at a fraction of the price. 

Filament Run-Out

It’s always disappointing to come back to your 3D printer expecting a finished item, only to find it not even halfway. And if you don’t have a filament run-out sensor to detect when you’re out and pause printing, you’ll ruin your print.

If you’re 3D printing overnight, chances are high that you’re dealing with a sizable print. These normally require a great deal of 3D printing filament. For example, a generic helmet will probably take you about 2.5 kg of filament to complete. 

If you start such a project with a 1kg spool of filament, you’ll need to mount a new one at some point, something that’s impossible to do while you sleep.

Let’s say you’ve covered your bases and predicted that the filament will not be enough for the night. It’s pretty hard to know at what particular time of the night your project will need fresh filament. There’s also a chance that you might miss that reminder alarm.

Failed Prints

Speaking of unfinished prints, 3D printing overnight can increase the chances of getting a failed print. When you’re printing something for that long, there are no guarantees that your session will go as expected, even with the best 3D printers.

The most common mishaps usually happen due to first-layer issues, so starting a project and not monitoring it for the first hour or two can lead to a disastrous finish. Prints can also topple off the print bed, layers can misalign, and your nozzle can get clogged. 

All these will go unnoticed through your sleep, and your print will get botched and your filament and power wasted.

Mechanical Failure

A 3D printer mechanical failure can happen anytime. If you’re not there to check on your printer, the whole printing session can go haywire.

Common mechanical issues that can occur include:

• Extruder grinding/crushing filament
• Clogged nozzle
• Odd noises from the nozzle
• Clicking motors

A telltale sign of a mechanical fault in your 3D printer is your filament not feeding properly. You can normally fix it if you spot it early, but if it goes unnoticed, the print will fail and the printer will over-exert itself, which can lead to more damage.

Noise Pollution

Most entry-level printers will give off some level of noise that is noticeable at night. Many of them run at about 55 decibels, which is the equivalent of the noise from an air conditioner. 

But the thing is, this noise is considerably high-pitched and therefore more perceivable by the human ear. When everything is quiet at night, the whizzing and whistling of the motors can be uncomfortable for you and possibly your housemates or neighbors. 

Several factors affect the quietness of a 3D printer, including its stepper motor drivers and whether it has an enclosed print area. Some printers are generally noisier than others, and we’ve also written about both eliminating noise during printing, and the best quiet 3D printers. 

FAQ:

It’s often confused with melting point, but the two are not the same. Melting point is the temperature when a solid turns into a liquid. Glass transition temperature is the point when a solid starts to lose its shape, turns into a gooey state, but is not yet a real liquid.

In this article, I’ll talk about the glass transition temperature of PETG, how it affects your PETG prints, and how it compares to other filaments.

What Is The Glass Transition Temperature Of PETG? 

The glass transition temperature for PETG is around 80°C. This is the temperature when PETG changes from a hard solid filament to a rubbery, gooey state. The actual temperature may vary by a few degrees, typically between 80-85°C, depending on the brand of PETG.

The small variation in PETG’s glass transition temperature is due to differences in the production process of the filament. Some manufacturers include additives in their PETG blends to give them extra chemical resistance, strength, and stiffness.

This is why it’s important to check the manufacturer’s specifications to know the exact glass transition temperature of your PETG filament.

Knowledge of your filament’s glass transition temperature is vital because it helps you avoid common printing failures. In addition, if you know the temperature when your PETG filament starts to act gooey, you can predict whether your prints will survive in certain hot environments. 

Let’s see how.

Why is this important?

Object Functionality

The last thing you want is to print an object out of PETG and use it in a very hot environment. If your printed part is going to be used in an environment above 80°C, it will begin to lose its shape and functionality. 

For example, if you’re printing a part you’ll use under the hood of a car, PETG is a dead-end. This part will most likely deform under all that heat. In that case, you can try using a polycarbonate or ABS-like filament.

Bed Temperature

During 3D printing, the printer warms up the bed so your filament sticks to it. If the prints did not stick, your job would fail and come out completely misshapen.

If you’re printing with PETG, your bed temperature should be the same as the glass transition temperature. At this temperature, the base of the print is soft and sticky enough to adhere to the build platform. 

If your bed is at a higher or lower temperature than this, the following issues will arise:

Warping

Warping is when the corners of your print start to lift off the print bed. It happens when the print bed is colder than the bottom layers of your print. 

When hot, molten filament is deposited on the 3D printer’s build plate, its temperature drops, and it turns from liquid to solid plastic.

However, if the print bed is too cold, it’ll cool too fast and shrink, which creates warping and layer separation, especially in the model’s corners. Set your print bed in the 80-85°C range for PETG, at its glass transition temperature, and you minimize warping.

Elephant’s Foot 

Elephant’s foot makes the bottom layers of your print look like they’re slightly spreading outward. One of the reasons why it happens is an overheated print bed. 

A bed that is above the glass transition temperature will only melt the bottom layers. And as you continue to print more layers on top, the weight of the print forces the wet bottom layers to flow outward.

Also note whether your nozzle temperature is too high, as this can make PETG string and ooze.

PETG Glass Transition Temperature vs Other Filaments

PLA 

PLA (Polylactic Acid) is probably the most used 3D printing filament. It’s affordable and easy to work with, making it a staple for hobbyists. 

PLA’s glass transition temperature is 60-65°C. It’s not as strong or durable as PETG, and its prints are less effective for high-temperature use than PETG. You don’t even have to use a heated bed with PLA, as it does not warp much – though it’s still recommended.

ABS

ABS (Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene) is a common thermoplastic with high tensile strength. From lego bricks to car dashboards to wall socket coverings, ABS is everywhere. 

At 105°C, ABS has a higher glass transition temperature than PETG. But it’s also more sensitive to changes in ambient temperature, making it tedious to work with. In most cases, ABS requires heated, enclosed build chambers during printing to prevent warping, as well as a heated bed. 

ASA

ASA (Acrylic Styrene Acrylonitrile) is closely related to ABS in terms of its chemical properties. It was derived to serve as a more UV-resistant version of ABS that is easier to use. The glass transition temperature of ASA is 100°C. 

ASA also requires a heated enclosure, not only because of its similarity to ABS, but also due to its tendency to release toxic fumes.

TPU

TPU (Thermoplastic Polyurethane) is an example of flexible filament. It’s the go-to filament for printing rubbery, bendy parts such as phone cases. TPU’s glass transition temperature is anywhere from room temperature to 90°C for some brands.

It’s also tricker to print, and doesn’t work well with bowden extruders. Print slowly (20-30mm/s) and with a direct drive extruder.

Polycarbonate

Polycarbonate is a tough filament that is largely used for engineering applications. 

Its glass transition temperature of 147°C makes it one of the best materials to use for printing parts that are used in high-temperature environments.

Polycarbonate requires an enclosed build volume because any uncontrolled cooling conditions will likely create layer separation in polycarbonate prints.

Nylon 

Nylon is a common 3D printing filament with a variety of applications. Nylon’s glass transition temperature is 70-80°C. It also requires an enclosure around the build volume during printing in order to avoid warping issues. 

When it comes to toughness and strength, nylon gives most 3D printing filaments a run for their money. 

But, before I get into all the causes and fixes, here’s how you can tell if you’re dealing with salmon skin on your 3D prints:

How to Recognize Salmon Skin on 3D Prints

When your 3D print has salmon skin, its surface finish has lines that give it the look of fresh salmon meat. The lines may also look like zebra stripes or a series of waves that flow uniformly over the print surface. Sometimes, salmon skin might feel rough to the touch.

What Causes Salmon Skin on 3D Prints?

Salmon skin happens due to abnormal vibrations within your 3D printer. These vibrations originate mainly from mechanical issues in the 3D printer. But they can also occur due to low-quality filament, poor bed adhesion, and high printing speeds.

How to Fix Salmon Skin on 3D Prints

To fix salmon skin on 3D prints, stabilize current flow using TL smoothers and upgrade your stepper motor drivers where necessary. You should also print on a stable, flat surface, reduce your printing speed, replace and tighten up your printer belt, and tighten up any loose parts in the printer.

Let’s get into the details of all these causes of salmon skin, and exactly how to fix each issue.

1. Outdated Stepper Motor Drivers

Your stepper motor driver’s quality determines not just how quiet a 3D printer is, but also the likelihood of artifacts occurring during printing. 

Stepper motors control the moving components in your 3D printer. They are like little engines, and they get their power supply from stepper motor drivers.

Unfortunately, most manufacturers only use basic stepper motor drivers in entry-level printers to make them more affordable. 

If your stepper motor drivers are outdated, they’ll give in to heavy usage, and their efficiency will reduce. They’ll eventually lose their ability to maintain a steady current flow, and this will cause unusual, scaly patterns on your prints – salmon skin.

How To Fix: Upgrade Your Stepper Motor Drivers

Remember how stepper motors get their power from stepper motor drivers? While we also recommend a TL smoother (keep reading for more on this), upgrading your stepper motor driver can be a final resort.

Not all stepper motor drivers are equal, with some being more efficient than others. Their accuracy and efficiency largely depends on their microstepping rating.

Upgrading your stepper driver to one with a higher microstepping rating can dramatically improve precision and reduce the vibrations and noise of the stepper motor.

As a rule of thumb, the higher the denominator in the microstepping rating of a driver, the higher its price, and the quieter and more accurate the printer head is.

Here are some common stepper motor drivers that are compatible with most desktop 3D printer firmware:

If you are considering upgrading the drivers, I’d recommend TMC2209 drivers. They are compatible with many brands, have a wide range of micro-stepping resolutions, and suitably handle high current and voltage loads. 

2. Worn Out and Loose Belts

3D printer belts work hand-in-hand with stepper motors. The belts run along the stepper motor driver gears to move the hot end and print bed smoothly and precisely. 

Printer belts are usually durable, needing only the occasional tension adjustment. 

But, if they wear out (typically after several years) your print head’s movement can become less consistent, resulting in abnormalities and salmon skin effects on your print’s surface. Similarly, if the printer belts are loose, your printer will lose some of its precision, and it will show in your print quality. 

How To Fix: Replace the belts

Fortunately, 3D printer belts are cheap, and you can buy them on Amazon for under $15, and they’re also easy to replace on most printers like the Ender 3. There are plenty of guides and videos online that’ll walk you through the proces.

3. Loose Parts

Printer belts are not the only 3D printer component that can get loose over time. Other pieces, like nuts and bolts, can lose their tightness over time. This makes your 3D printer’s frame less steady.

And, if you’ve got a rickety structure, your extruder won’t be able to deposit filament as consistently, and and irregularities will show up in the print.

How To Fix: Tighten Loose 3D Printer Components

Get your wrench and hex screwdriver set. Tighten up every screw, nut, and bolt as if you were assembling your printer for the first time – this should get rid of any mechanical shakiness.

4. Low Wall Thickness

Wall thickness is the distance between the outer shell and infill of a 3D print. If your wall thickness is too small, the infill can become visible on the outside part of your 3D printed object. 

All 3D prints have an infill pattern rather than printing solid (we just usually don’t see it on the outside), to save filament costs and printing time.

With too-low wall thickness, this infill pattern can show up as salmon skin on your print’s outer surface.

How To Fix: Adjust Wall Thickness

Adjusting wall thickness ensures the infill has no chance of being visible on the outside. There are different things you can do when adjusting infill settings, but here are two things you can try first:

1. Increase wall thickness. The greater your wall thickness, the more opaque your 3D object will be, and the less chance of noticing your infill. If you’re using a 0.4mm nozzle, try a shell thickness of 0.8-1.2mm and you should be fine.
2. Lower infill overlap. This is how much the edges of your infill are printed into the outer walls of your print. In most slicers, the infill overlap percentage is 15%. Slightly lower this percentage to create less overlap between the infill and outer walls.

5. Printing On an Unstable Surface

If you use your 3D printer on an unstable, uneven surface, it’ll wobble as it prints. These movements produce unwanted vibrations that pass through the 3D printer and into the print itself, leaving shaky salmon skin patterns.

But how do you know if your surface is the problem?

When your printer stands on a shaky surface, you’ll see the surface tottering or vibrating. Also, you might see the printer vibrating as it runs if placed on unsteady grounds. 

How to Fix: Print On A Stable Surface

Make sure your printer is nice and firm as you’re printing. Ideally, you should place your printer on a hard, flat, and rigid surface like a heavy table or desk, or on a rubber mat to dampen any unwanted vibrations. We have written a full article on the best tables and desks for 3D printers.

Avoid printing on light, plastic tables or soft surfaces like a couch or bed.

6. High Printing Speeds

High printing speeds are notorious for creating print imperfections. If you overwork your printer, naturally you’ll lose precision and quality (especially on a direct drive 3D printer with a heavier extruder).

This reduced accuracy in depositing molten filament causes rippling wavy patterns. Some of these patterns will likely appear as salmon skin on the surface of your 3D prints.

How to Fix: Reduce the Printing Speed

In most slicers, the default printing speed is around 50 mm/s. If you’ve gone way above that mark, reducing the printing speed might fix your salmon skin issues.

However, with printing speed, there is no one-size-fits-all. The correct speed settings really depend on what you’re printing, and the type of filament you’re printing with. For example, you should print TPU and other flexibles at far slower speeds than PLA. There’s always a trade off between speed and quality.

When lowering your printing speed, avoid lowering it by more than 25% of the default print speed. We also have a detailed guide on the best printing speed settings on the Ender 3.

One Final Salmon Skin Fix: Install TL Smoothers

If you’ve tried all the above fixes but still see salmon skin in your prints, it might be time to bring out a TL smoother. 

TL smoothers are small printed circuit boards plugged as add-ons between the stepper drivers and the stepper motors. They are low-cost, plug-and-play options that smooth out the torque and movements of the stepper motor while stabilizing the vibrations.

Keep in mind that not all 3D printer drivers require TL smoothers. Newer boards like the 1.1.5 have them built in, and don’t require a TL smoother add-on. This option is suitable for older drivers, such as the DRV8825.

TL smoothers come in either 4-diode or 8-diode packs. The difference between the packs is that the 4-diode pack has a lower smoothing effect than the 8-diode pack. 

If you plan on buying one, you can go with this ARQQ TL smoother from Amazon because it has lower vibrations and less noise while providing a smoother result.

Stringing in PETG occurs when molten filament oozes from the nozzle as it moves between two points, resulting in hair-like strings of plastic on your print. This over-extrusion may also create blobs – little bumps on your print that can ruin its surface finish.

But why is PETG particularly prone to stringing?

PETG Stringing Issues

Compared to other filaments, PETG has a higher chance of stringing because of its high printing temperature (220 – 250°C). At such high temperatures, PETG is relatively more fluid. This makes it ooze smoothly out of the nozzle even when it shouldn’t, resulting in stringing.

But stringing shouldn’t always be the case while printing with PETG. Here are a few things you can do to stop it.

How Do I Stop Stringing in PETG?

You can stop PETG stringing by adjusting your nozzle temperature, travel speed, and retraction settings. You can also prevent it by using high-quality PETG filaments and always keeping them dry.

Read on to find out how you can put a final stop to stringing whenever you print with PETG. The 4 main fixes are:

1. Adjust nozzle temperature
2. Adjust extruder travel speed
3. Change your retraction settings
4. Keep your PETG filament dry

1. Adjust Nozzle Temperature

Why it affects PETG Stringing:

When it comes to 3D printing with PETG filament, the nozzle temperature is one of the most important factors to consider. Too low, and you’ll find that your print quality drops. Too high, and your filament will overflow and create strings. 

Generally, PETG prints between 220°C and 250°C, but how do you get the perfect nozzle temperature for your PETG prints?

How To Fix:

To get the best results, the nozzle temperature should be just high enough to ensure the filament melts and flows correctly while adhering to the build plate. A good place to start is at about 245°C, though nozzle temperature will vary slightly depending on your printer and filament brand.

To get a good sense of the correct nozzle temperature for your printer and filament brand, use a temperature tower test. 

The test instructs your printer to print a tower of multiple blocks. Each block is printed at a different temperature, with the base printed at the highest temperature. As the tower rises, the printing temperature drops by 5°C up to the final block at the top.

When the print is done, physically analyze it and decide your optimal printing temperature based on which block has the highest print quality.

2. Adjust Travel Speed

Why it affects PETG Stringing:

Travel speed refers to how fast the nozzle moves between gaps when it’s not extruding filament. 

It’s essential to keep your travel speed reasonable for PETG because if the speed is too slow, your nozzle will have more time to drool out the melting filament. If the speed is too fast, print quality drops.

But if you’re printing at a reasonable speed, the nozzle will move quickly enough before the melting filament oozes and forms strings and blobs.

You can see in the image above how increasing speed leads to more stringing in the final part. This was from a recent review we did of the Creality Ender 3 V2 Neo, and applies to all 3D printers.

How To Fix:

Starting at around 90 mm/s, try increasing the printer’s travel speed gradually by 10 mm/s until you no longer notice any stringing or blobs.

3. Adjust Retraction Settings

Why it affects PETG Stringing:

Retraction is the process of pulling the filament back up the nozzle after a move is completed. This prevents the plastic from being extruded while the nozzle is stopped, which reduces stringing. 

The amount of retraction you’ll need can vary depending on your printer, filament, and model, so it’s better to experiment to find the best settings. So, where do you start? 

There are four retraction settings you can tweak to control stringing. You can run a simple stringing test and see how the stringing changes as you change the following settings: 

How To Fix:

Retraction Speed

Retraction speed is how fast the filament is pulled back whenever the nozzle moves between areas where no extrusion will occur. You want your filament to retract quickly before it has time to drip out in places it’s not supposed to.

With PETG, a retraction speed of 25 to 40 mm/s on Bowden tube extruders can get the job done without causing any stringing. On the other hand, direct drive extruders push the filament directly into the nozzle without going through a tube. Therefore, a retraction speed of 25 to 35 mm/s is enough to prevent stringing. 

Retraction Distance

Retraction distance refers to how far back the filament is pulled away from the nozzle as it travels. Bowden extruders need about 2 to 5 mm of retraction distance. Direct drive extruders require 1 to 2 mm.

Retraction Minimum Travel Distance

This refers to the minimum distance your extruder has to travel before retraction occurs. If this distance is too much, it may prevent any retraction from happening, while tiny distances will constantly trigger retraction and make the printing process slow. To get an optimal retraction minimum travel distance for PETG, start at 2 mm and reduce the distance gradually by 0.1 mm until you find a sweet spot where no strings are noticeable.

Vertical Lift

This feature lets the nozzle move up a small distance to create a gap between it and the object during short breaks in extrusion. Also called Z-hop, it is said to prevent the unwanted filament from dripping onto the object as it prints, reducing blobs and stringing. 

There are mixed opinions about its efficacy, but it certainly doesn’t hurt to give it a shot. In some slicers, you can also configure the vertical lift distance, but that should be a last resort.

4. Keep Your PETG Dry

Why it affects PETG Stringing:

It’s good practice to keep any filament dry, but it’s even more critical when working with PETG. This is because PETG has a greater tendency to absorb bits of moisture if left exposed in the open. Moisture expands PETG, causing clogging, nozzle damage, strings, blobs, and zits.

How To Fix:

It’s not always easy to create a moisture-free environment, but using a filament storage container can help. If you can’t immediately get one, keep the PETG away from humid, hot, and wet conditions. 

If you suspect that your PETG has become moist, you can use a filament dryer to restore it to its dry state. Some of the best filament dryers we recommend include:

• PrintDry Filament Drying System, which allows you to dry wet filament in real-time as you feed it to your 3D printer. It also comes with a vacuum-sealed container and air removal pump to keep your dry filament dry.
• PolyMaker Filament Storage Box II, which includes a storage box with a built-in high-precision thermo-hygrometer that lets you monitor humidity and temperature.

Best Filament Dryer & Storage

PrintDry PRO Filament Drying System

$189.00

Matterhackers here

We earn a commission if you make a purchase, at no additional cost to you.

How Do I Stop My PETG From Blobbing And Leaving Zits?

PETG zits and first-layer blobs commonly happen alongside stringing, so they are also preventable. The lumps and zits appear as small bumps on the surface of your printed objects. 

They happen when the filament pressure remains high during retraction, causing a short burst of melted filament to get into a printed layer. This over-extrusion of filament shows up as a blob, zit, or some blemish in your print.

Just like stringing, you can prevent PETG zits and blobs by adjusting your nozzle temperature, travel speed, and retraction settings. Also, ensure your nozzle is clean because any residue or build-up can lead to blobs and zits. You should also slow your printing speed to about 40 – 60 mm/s.

Lastly, consider upgrading your filament if you want to reduce PETG stringing. We often underlook the quality of filament when troubleshooting printing problems, yet, it’s often the first line of defense against bad prints. 

If you’re printing as a hobbyist, that’s okay. But if you want to take your print quality to the next level, you need to work with some of the best PETG filaments out there. Here are a few that have stood the test of time – and quality:

• Matterhackers USA PETG filament range
• Matterhackers USA PRO Series PETG
• Overture PETG filament

How To Fix PETG Stringing on the Ender 3

PETG Stringing on the Ender 3 Pro

If you’re working with an Ender 3 Pro, try these settings to fix PETG stringing:

• Bed temperature: 85 °C
• Nozzle temperature: 220 – 240 °C. PETG prints between 220°C and 250°C, but a temperature above 245 °C might cause nozzle damage.
• Retraction distance: 6 – 6.5mm.
• Retraction speed: ≤40 mm/s
• Print speed: 30mm/s – 50mm/s

PETG Stringing on the Ender 3 V2

Many of the print settings on the Ender 3 Pro will work on Ender 3 V2. However, the Ender 3 V2 has a carborundum glass plate, which has implications if you use PETG. 

PETG sticks so easily to glass that it can even fuse into the glass plate itself. Over prolonged use, you’ll notice residues on the glass, which can spoil your first layer finish. 

To stop this issue, we recommend using a glue stick or some good old blue painter’s tape on the build plate. Then, set the bed temperature at about 85°C to get a proper adhesion on your print. If you want more details on getting excellent adhesion with PETG, have a look at this PETG adhesion guide.

How To Fix PETG Stringing on Ender 5

On your Ender 5, use the same print settings as you would on an Ender 3. In addition, try adding cooling to your printing process. This will help the filament to cool more quickly, reducing the amount of stringing.

How to Fix PETG Stringing on Prusa

There are several ways to reduce stringing and oozing on your Prusa. But the most essential methods include optimizing your retraction settings and printing at a temperature of 220°C – 250°C. If you’re using the MK2.5/S or MK3/S/+, keep your retraction at a maximum of 2 mm.

You can also try sequential printing, which allows you to print each part separately and reduce stringing. To activate sequential printing on your Prusa, go to Print settings -> Output options -> Sequential printing.

FAQs

Related articles:

• Complete PETG filament guide
• PETG shrinkage

But, the previous Ender 3 V2 had issues (that the Ender 3 V2 Neo now fixes!):

• It took a while to build (longer than an hour, whereas now kits are 20-30mins)
• It didn’t have auto-leveling

To update it for the present day, Creality have launched the Ender 3 V2 Neo, with a range of new features added. 

And we were fortunate to receive an Ender 3 V2 Neo from Creality to test, on the agreement we would impartially review it based on what we think: is it the next best-seller, or does it not live up to the original Ender 3 range’s former glory?

Even before we got our hands on it, we were excited about its new features: the CR Touch auto leveling, removable build plate, and all-metal extruder. But we were also curious about how it performed in action, and the 3D print quality.

So, we ran several tests on our new Ender-3 V2 Neo, sometimes pushing it to the limit. We played around with its new features and tested its overall performance. Here’s what we found out.

Ender-3 V2 Neo

Pros

Auto-leveling works great via CR-Touch

New and improved metal extruder system

Build plate makes removing prints easier, and prevents damage from sticking too well

Print resume features saved us during power outages

Handles 90mm/s speeds pretty well, 1.5x faster than standard 60mm/s

Cons

Still doesn’t have a touchscreen

At 120mm/s speeds you see a noticeable loss in print quality

Available At Creality Here Amazon Here

TL;DR – A Quick Summary

Overall, we were impressed with the Ender 3 V2 Neo. 

Even at higher speeds it mostly maintains high precision and quality, and honestly we pushed it way beyond the settings you should be using it at on a day-to-day, so a couple of the models that have small imperfects and gaps would have come out perfect if we’d ran the print on calmer settings.

The auto-leveling is a huge plus, especially for new beginners – who otherwise would have to install the CR-Touch themselves. And the new build plate and metal extruder are big quality-of-life improvements on the original Ender 3, and Ender 3 V2.

Assembly

We started by assembling the 3D printer. One of the things you’ll notice off the bat is that the Ender-3 V2 Neo comes pre-installed. All you have to do is:

1. Install the gantry
2. Connect the screen
3. Attach the filament rack

All this can be done in 25 minutes, which is not bad for a printer of its capacity. Once we got the parts together, we shifted our attention to the newly added features. 

Ender-3 V2 Neo New Features

PC Spring Steel Magnetic Build Plate

This was one of the major improvements on the Ender-3 V2 Neo. Its build plate is removable, bendable, and made out of steel. 

At the bottom of the plate, there’s a magnetic surface that helps it stick firmly to the print bed. On top, the build plate has a glossy, black coating of Polyetherimide (PEI). This material gave us great adhesion during all our printing, so we never needed any plate adhesive. 

So what’s so special about this type of build plate? 

Since it’s detachable, the PC spring steel magnetic build plate has two major advantages:

1. It makes it easy to get your printed object off the bed. Once you’re done printing, simply drag off the plate, bend it a little, and off goes your print. It’s much better than a spatula because you won’t damage your print bed surface with all the scraping, and you’re far less likely to have your print stick too well and take a chunk out of your print bed. 

2. It’s easier to clean. You can quickly pop it off, clean it, dry it, and lay it back onto your print bed. If it were fixed in one place, you’d have to be really careful not to get water into the crannies of the printer, and it’d just be much more of a hassle to clean generally.

Bed Springs

Below the print bed are four orange springs that let you manually adjust the bed surface. 

Compared to previous Ender 3 printers, the Ender-3 V2 Neo’s strings are stronger and more compact, so they won’t buckle. Once they compress, they hold the position of the bed much better. And because they’re flatter on top, you’ll have a more leveled bed.

Manually leveling your bed is tedious. So if your print bed remains in one flat position for long, you won’t have to do it all the time. 

Full Metal Bowden Extruder

The Ender-3 V2 Neo’s full-metal Bowden extruder offers greater durability, extrusion force, and smooth feeding and retracting of filaments. This is one of the features that pay off in the long run.

Plastic Bowden extruders are okay. But if you’re constantly using your printer, you’ll need an extruder that will last.

Model Preview 

The Ender-3 V2 Neo may not have a touch screen display, but there’s something to love about its user interface – the model preview function. It shows you a 3D colored image of what you’re about to print.

This comes in handy if you have a large collection of models but the names are difficult to discern the models from.

To work the display, you have to rotate the knob, which takes you through the different options. To select an option, you push on the knob, which makes a rather loud popping sound. 

Although it gets the job done, we still feel like Creality can do better with this knob. Most 3D printers in this price range, like the Anycubic Kobra, now use touchscreens.

Other Ender-3 V2 Neo Features

Build Volume

The Ender-3 V2 Neo has a 220 x 220 x 250 mm build volume – the same as the original Ender 3s. It can 3D print pretty much any size of object you expect from a desktop printer.

Printing a small sculpture? You’re covered. Want to print something sizable? Unless it’s particularly large, you should be alright – but if it’s particularly large like a cosplay helmet, you might want to consider the larger Ender 5 Plus (or brand-new Ender 5 Neo range!).

Technically, the bed surface is 235 x 235 mm, giving you more wiggle room to create slightly larger prints or to print multiple objects at a go. If you require more space on your build plate and you want to pick up an Ender 3 – a better option is the Ender-3 Max Neo with its 300 x 300 x 320 mm build volume.

Speed

Speed is important when it comes to 3D printing. It affects print quality and how much power and material you use. 

According to Creality, the Ender 3 V2 Neo prints optimally at around 60 mm/sec. That’s not bad. But if you want to do things quickly, this printer can go all the way up to 120 mm/sec. 

Bear in mind that there’s a trade off between speed and precision. As you increase your print speed, you might see a fall in the quality of your 3D object. 

To test the Ender 3’s print quality at higher speeds, we printed these two little sink drains at two different speeds. 

The one on the left was done at 60 mm/s and the other at 90 mm/s. These were the results:

At 60 mm/s, the print on the left turned out practically as perfect as can be. When we increased the print speed to 90 mm/s, we noticed some slight stringing between the holes of the drain, but overall it was still a pretty solid print and still came out very circular. 

But that wasn’t enough, we wanted to know what happens when you crank up the print speed on the Ender-3 V2 Neo right to the top. 

More specifically, we needed to know if there is a noticeable change in the print’s quality as the print speed increases beyond what it’s comfortable with.

So we brought out the classic speed test tower. In this test, the printer starts printing this model at a low speed and gradually increases print speed as it goes higher up the tower. For every 12.5 mm increase in height, the print speed increases by 20 mm/s. 

We started at 40 mm/s at the base and ended at 120 mm/s.

As you can see, the quality of the print was consistent until around 100 – 120 mm/s. At this printing speed, we notice some inconsistencies in the bonding between the layers, and some slight stringing starts. But still, it wasn’t horrendous.

Minimum Layer Height 

When we talk about layer height, we’re referring to the thickness of each layer of extruded material. Layer height is important because the shorter the layer, the higher the precision in your object.

Therefore, if you want the highest level of definition in your prints, try printing at the minimum layer height. The Ender-3 V2 Neo has a minimum layer height of 0.1 mm with the default being 0.2 mm, same as the original Ender range.

So, we printed the halloween mini-pumpkin on the left at 0.1 mm, and the one on the right at 0.2 mm. This is what they looked like.

They look identical at first glance. But when you look closely, you’ll immediately see the effects of layer height on the two prints. On the left halloween pumpkin, the layers are almost visible while the right one has a smoother texture to it.

Though if we did this again, we would tweak the print settings to cover for the layer gaps and holes, you can clearly see from this layer height test that you get notably better results at 0.1mm, with less prominent layer lines – which the Ender 3 V2 Neo handles without too much issue. 

For this particular set of prints we had power outages unfortunately, which the Ender 3 V2 Neo recovered from owing to its power outage recovery features (discussed further in the next section!). The print quality would have been smoother without these issues most likely, and when it had an uninterrupted run, the print quality was high.

Resume Printing – Print Resume / Filament Run-Out Sensor

Worried about a sudden power outage? I have some good news for you. The Ender-3 V2 Neo has a resume printing function that allows you to get back to your printing in case of an interruption in power supply. 

Interestingly, many of the prints in this review were made during sporadic blackouts, but still completed the prints, without a large loss in quality (we’d perhaps do some post-processing on these prints, but they still work as decorations).

Creality Slicer Software

The Ender-3 V2 Neo comes with a memory card loaded with the Creality Slicer program, the official slicer software made for every Creality printer ever made. We quickly installed it in a matter of minutes, and launched it to an interesting surprise.

If you’ve used Cura before, you’ll notice that the Creality slicer software has a striking resemblance to Cura, and it’s basically exactly the same to use. 

Creality Slicer lets you see a multi-angle view of your model by changing the angle of the bed to 3D view front, top, left, and right view. You can also rotate and move the model around the bed, scale it along the X, Y, and Z axes.

Within the slicer, you can also tweak the settings for infill settings, dual color printing, nozzle movement, slicer preview, and others.   

If you’re looking for a wave of inspiration, try the Creality Cloud plugin that comes with the slicer. There, we found tons of models that you can download, including TV characters, toys, famous architecture, and many more.

The slicer supports several 3D file formats, such as STL, 3MF, AMF, and OBJ files that you can drag and drop into a neat user interface.

Material Compatibility

Like a lot of the extrusion-type printers today, the Ender-3 V2 Neo’s default filament is PLA. But it’s also compatible with PETG and ABS. 

For best results, you might want to use Creality filaments on their printers. A good example is this roll of 1.75 mm PLA that came with our printer.  

Overall, the Creality Ender 3 V2 Neo impressed. It is what it claims to be: an updated version of the hugely successful Ender 3 that brings it in line with the new tech we have a few years on. 

It doesn’t reinvent the wheel, but it’s a solid low-cost 3D printer, that along with other printers we rate highly like the Anycubic Kobra and Prusa Mini, are great beginner-friendly FDM printers that beginners and experienced makers alike can enjoy.

Ender-3 V2 Neo

Pros

Auto-leveling works great via CR-Touch

New and improved metal extruder system

Build plate makes removing prints easier, and prevents damage from sticking too well

Print resume features saved us during power outages

Handles 90mm/s speeds pretty well, 1.5x faster than standard 60mm/s

Cons

Still doesn’t have a touchscreen

At 120mm/s speeds you see a noticeable loss in print quality

Available At Creality Here Amazon Here

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• Here Are The Best Affordable Auto Leveling 3D Printers
• Sovol SV01 Pro Review: Everything To Know Before Getting One
• Creality Sermoon V1 enclosed 3D printer review
• Putting The Creality CR-10 Smart To A Test (Review)